80 Series H151F 5 Speed Manual Transmission Swap - Includes RHD HDJ81 & LHD FZJ80 (8 Viewers)

[danakittilsen]

Maybe on another thread? Kind of want to keep this on point so guys don't have to read pages and pages of crap in order to do their swaps.

Or if guys don't want to read this thread at all, I am willing to do H151f swaps for the low low price of your first born child. Muahaha
But no, seriously, I'm sufficiently recovered and willing to do it for anyone who wants to fund all the Step #6s we can include in the process.

 

[ALX4X4]

@ALX4X4 more on the 6.0 LS2 swap with an H151f???

Marks adaptor kit as shown in my picture. Runs great and with the Marks transfer gears I'm yet to find anything that 3rd low can't climb providing it's not ruts or crawling. Hi jack over

 

[gofast]

View attachment 1082403 View attachment 1082403
Marks adaptor kit as shown in my picture. Runs great and with the Marks transfer gears I'm yet to find anything that 3rd low can't climb providing it's not ruts or crawling. Hi jack over

What's bolted to the hood? Nice clean install by way!

 

[ALX4X4]

What's bolted to the hood? Nice clean install by way!

Thanks mate.
Guess I'm gonna tread on your toes just a bit more OP, but if you want a group buy of 78 series bonnets !!!!!!!!!
It's really more of an 80 hood skin graft over the 78 frame with the hump added to the 80 skin. If you compare my underhood to your underhood you'll see it's a lot different - you're looking more at a 78. Well spotted gofast..... I just like it 'cause it's different, neat IMO and from the Toyota family.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Preparing the tunnel

Before doing this cover up your nice new clutch setup!

This part is pretty open ended so I thought I'd just provide measurements...

The H151F shifter assembly will go up past the tunnel so it will need to be cut before the transmission is installed.

Here are the measurements I got.

The front edge of the shifter will come up to just over 5 cm from the front bracket.

The diameter of the shifter is around 6 cm including the protrusions on the side.




With these measurements, you can make a pretty accurate estimate as to where the shifter will come up. You can see that I made a bunch of wide cuts as I got my rough measurements wrong. I wish I had this knowledge beforehand!

This location is the same for RHD and LHD. Us RHD guys definitely have to make big cuts as our auto shifter is on the right and the 5 speed shifter is on the left.

As for the transfer case shifter clearance, wait until the transmission is up before cutting. I took off far too much material than I needed to and regretted it. It made doing the insulation bracket far more painful! Again, use best practice and remove AS LITTLE material as humanly possible!!!

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Preparing Transmission

This can vary depending on how you receive your H151F. I'll cover what I had to do when I received it.


Bolt up your bell housing. There are 10 bolts however ONE should be slightly shorter. This one goes near the clutch fork fulcrum.

These should be torqued to 27 ft-lbs.

In case you didn't get the bolts with the bell housing they are:

91611-61045 x9 Bell housing bolts
91611-61035 Slightly shorter bell housing bolt


Then bolt up your new slave cylinder.

Torque to 9 ft-lbs.

31470-60180 Slave Cylinder
91611-B0825 x2 Slave Cylinder bolts


Bolt up your shiny new Release fork support to the transmission and torque to 35 ft-lbs. Then install the clutch release boot on the side.

31236-35030 Clutch release fork support
31126-60050 Fork boot


Then before adding the other components, the FSM says to grease everything up as shown below with molybdenum disulphide Lithium based NGLI 2 grease:

Then slide the clutch fork through the boot and clip it onto the throwout bearing. Don't worry, the throwout bearing comes with a clip.

And you're transmission should be ready to go!

31204-36110 Clutch release fork
31230-60181 Throwout bearing

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Installing Manual

First step: RENT A TRANSMISSION JACK!! We didn't have one during my transmission install so we used dueling jacks with wood block janga towers which, between 3 guys took 4 hours to install the transmission. When we did the install for @danakittilsen and used a transmission jack (and a lift but that's besides the point lol) it took 30 minutes. Your call.

As always, take a gander at the FSM. You should always read through it and double check you have everything ready before putting the transmission on.

Before doing ANYTHING, make sure you have the dowels either on the transmission or the ones left on the engine (if they stayed there). My advice is to get new ones well beforehand, no point getting held up by something so small.

90250-08054 x2 Block pins



Here are some tips when installing

-Fill transmission with gear oil before install. Much easier this way. 75w90 synthetic is what I used.
-Don't bolt up your t case yet. Makes life much easier.
-With the trans on the jack, get a very steep angle, around 30 degrees.
-We found the trick for getting the bell housing through the tunnel was to slightly rotate the transmission so that the REAR of the transmission was closer to the RIGHT HAND side of the vehicle.
-This whole process takes lots of wiggling!
-The goal of this whole thing is to get the input shaft on the transmission between the fins on the clutch cover. That's the most difficult part. Once you get the shaft between the fins, you're off to the races.
-Once the transmission gets within 1cm of being fully mated, it'll take some convincing. This is because the dowels are press fitted so you will need lots of force. We used a 2 by 4 to get the transmission fully onto the block.


Once it is flush, it's time to bolt it up. After some research, I saw that the part numbers for the bolts on the auto bell housing were different from the manual bolts. So I ordered a whole bunch. HOWEVER, when I put them side by side, they were IDENTICAL. Therefore, you can re use the bell housing bolts from the auto transmission if you'd like. But, if you're like me and like shiny new bolts I have supplied the part number.

91619-61245 x9 H151F bell housing bolts for 1HD-T. (Need x10 for 1FZ-FE to H151F Bell housing)

Torque the bell housing bolts to 53 ft-lbs. Torque in a star pattern like you did on the flywheel.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Cross Member

So we did things a little differently and are super curious about other people's thoughts. Of course, there are many ways to do this and if you have fab skills I would suggest grinding off the plates and relocating them and welding capture nuts into the holes on the frame like other guys have done.

This step is somewhat open ended so feel free to do what you want, but this is what I did.

First, I got 8 inch long bolts with 6 washers and a lock nut. I BELIEVE it is 8 inches. We measured the height of the frame and found a bolt that worked. Also, make sure to get the highest strength bolt you can find. You will need 4 sets of these seen below.

I then also bought 2 M10 x 1.25 bolts which are LONGER than the stock cross member bolts.

I then drilled through the capture nut holes through the top of the frame. This will require quite a long drill bit!! Then you can bolt up the outer most holes on the cross member to the frame using the 8" bolts.

Then I measured the location of the REAR nut on the bracket (which is still in the auto position!) with respect to the cross member when it was bolted to the frame. It almost lies right in the middle of the hole already in the manual cross member. I then took my M10 x 1.25 and threaded it into the rear nut on the bracket.

This is what it looks like:

I also bought a manual transmission mount. Please note it is a DIFFERENT size from the auto. However, the difference is very small. The auto mount is 2mm SMALLER than the manual mount. I'm assuming you want to use the correct one so that your transfer case flange angles are correct.

In the picture below, the auto mount is on the right.

12371-61050 Manual transmission mount

Bolt up the mount to the cross member and bolt them up to the transmission according to the FSM using the left over bolts from when you took the old mount off the auto. They are the same for the manual.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

When the manual is all up and in, this is what it will look like.

Yes, that's a smiley face on the protective shifter cover.

 

[gofast]

The nylock on the 8 inch bolt might back off and I have had trouble with this style nut before. It looks like you have the room some maybe double nut it. Stover lock nuts (acklands or fastenal) work a treat. They are pinched and literally have to be ratcheted on. I'd use never seize on them if you ever want to remove the nuts.

 

[danakittilsen]

Cross Member

So we did things a little differently and are super curious about other people's thoughts. Of course, there are many ways to do this and if you have fab skills I would suggest grinding off the plates and relocating them and welding capture nuts into the holes on the frame like other guys have done.

This step is somewhat open ended so feel free to do what you want, but this is what I did.

First, I got 8 inch long bolts with 6 washers and a lock nut. I BELIEVE it is 8 inches. We measured the height of the frame and found a bolt that worked. Also, make sure to get the highest strength bolt you can find. You will need 4 sets of these seen below.

View attachment 1090224

I then also bought 2 M10 x 1.25 bolts which are LONGER than the stock cross member bolts.

View attachment 1090228

I then drilled through the capture nut holes through the top of the frame. This will require quite a long drill bit!! Then you can bolt up the outer most holes on the cross member to the frame using the 8" bolts.

Then I measured the location of the REAR nut on the bracket (which is still in the auto position!) with respect to the cross member when it was bolted to the frame. It almost lies right in the middle of the hole already in the manual cross member. I then took my M10 x 1.25 and threaded it into the rear nut on the bracket.

This is what it looks like:

View attachment 1090230

View attachment 1090232

I also bought a manual transmission mount. Please note it is a DIFFERENT size from the auto. However, the difference is very small. The auto mount is 2mm SMALLER than the manual mount. I'm assuming you want to use the correct one so that your transfer case flange angles are correct.

In the picture below, the auto mount is on the right.

View attachment 1090233

12371-61050 Manual transmission mount

Bolt up the mount to the cross member and bolt them up to the transmission according to the FSM using the left over bolts from when you took the old mount off the auto. They are the same for the manual.

I shouldn't be surprised at all, but I can't believe you bought the rear mount for manual transmission.

 

[danakittilsen]

The nylock on the 8 inch bolt might back off and I have had trouble with this style nut before. It looks like you have the room some maybe double nut it. Stover lock nuts (acklands or fastenal) work a treat. They are pinched and literally have to be ratcheted on. I'd use never seize on them if you ever want to remove the nuts.

View attachment 1090395

I did this same procedure for my cross member.
The stock cross member bolt nuts have enough length to reach up through the hole drilled in the cross member and come out the bracket on the frame.

We figured with the lesser weight of the manual (I could pick up a wet gear box by myself, but not a half drained auto) 6 bolts would suffice instead of the 8.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

The nylock on the 8 inch bolt might back off and I have had trouble with this style nut before. It looks like you have the room some maybe double nut it. Stover lock nuts (acklands or fastenal) work a treat. They are pinched and literally have to be ratcheted on. I'd use never seize on them if you ever want to remove the nuts.

View attachment 1090395

Thanks John, will have to check this out... There's JUST a bit of room to put another nut on there. I can barely get a wrench on there when tightening it all up.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Drive Shafts

I bolted up my transmission before I put the transfer case on, which really made it difficult since the thing is so awkward and heavy to bolt up after the fact. I can't pick up an 80 series t case on my own.

Luckily, I knew a guy who could Hulk the thing on there.

Which looked like this:

Yeah, it was that crazy.


Follow the FSM and torque up the bolts and connect the harnesses from the transfer case.

Likewise, check the dowels. I was lucky and found a way to keep the dowels left over between the manual and the transfer case after it came off the A442F. These dowels are a different size from the ones on the bell housing connection to the block.

90250-12002 x2 Transfer case dowels



As for the drive shafts, you CANNOT re use the ones that were on the auto!! They need to be different lengths.

the cheapest solution is to get the driveshafts WITH your transmission. Bolt them up and sell your old ones.

My source gave me the correct rear drive shaft, which is LONGER than the auto rear drive shaft, however the front was exactly the same as my auto shaft. So I sent it to a local shop and got it done.


Here is a pic of how different the length has to be. Sorry for the bad pic, but you get the idea. The black one is the one that got shortened by a local driveshaft shop. The one on the bottom is the one that came from my auto. The black one is around ~2 - 3 inches shorter.

Remember, the front on the manual has to be SHORTER and the rear has to be LONGER.

Here it is installed.

 

[danakittilsen]

Thanks John, will have to check this out... There's JUST a bit of room to put another nut on there. I can barely get a wrench on there when tightening it all up.

I put two nuts on mine, @gnarleynick2072

 

[danakittilsen]

Drive Shafts

I bolted up my transmission before I put the transfer case on, which really made it difficult since the thing is so awkward and heavy to bolt up after the fact. I can't pick up an 80 series t case on my own.

Luckily, I knew a guy who could Hulk the thing on there.

Which looked like this:

View attachment 1091034

Yeah, it was that crazy.

View attachment 1091038

I also remember Hulking your transmission around a lot during that 4 hour install.

 

[FloridaFJ80]

Drive Shafts

As for the drive shafts, you CANNOT re use the ones that were on the auto!! They need to be different lengths.

the cheapest solution is to get the driveshafts WITH your transmission. Bolt them up and sell your old ones.

My source gave me the correct rear drive shaft, which is LONGER than the auto rear drive shaft, however the front was exactly the same as my auto shaft. So I sent it to a local shop and got it done. Here is a pic of how different the length has to be. Sorry for the bad pic, but you get the idea....

So is the front the exact same size or is it bigger? The picture throws me off. Sorry.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

So is the front the exact same size or is it bigger? The picture throws me off. Sorry.

Nope the manual is shorter. The drive shaft on the top is shorter than the shaft that came from the auto.

 

[FloridaFJ80]

Ok thank you

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Ok thank you

No worries. The differences in length on both front and rear drive shafts is roughly 2 - 3 inches. It's quite significant.