80 Series Caster Advice (1 Viewer)

[Origjcc]

Pardon my ignorance in advance- read till I’m blue in the face on all the different post, more conflicted than ever.

Running avg of 3.5” lift. OME Springs, Dobinson shocks.

New steering box made a world of difference. Tracks straight now, with zero wondering, just follows road crown, especially on country roads.

Question is - Caster plates seem will be too much adjustment from what it needs, and bushings have some conflicting performance from what I’ve read.

Any advice from those that have been there and done that? Thank you

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Pardon my ignorance in advance- read till I’m blue in the face on all the different post, more conflicted than ever.

Running avg of 3.5” lift. OME Springs, Dobinson shocks.

New steering box made a world of difference. Tracks straight now, with zero wondering, just follows road crown, especially on country roads.

Question is - Caster plates seem will be too much adjustment from what it needs, and bushings have some conflicting performance from what I’ve read.

Any advice from those that have been there and done that? Thank you

View attachment 3413999

What's your current caster correction method, bushings? 2 degrees positive caster should be good enough as long as your not going bigger than 35" tires.

Honestly if your not doing a lot of hard wheeling and flexing than bushings should be fine. They were the gold standard for many years and depending on use they can hold up well. But if your doing a lot of crawling and hard flexing than plan on replacing the bushings every couple of years.

If you currently have correction bushings and you want to switch to oem bushings than I would recommend either a set of radius arm drop brackets or caster correction trunnion bearings especially if your due for a knuckle service.

Goodluck

 

[Origjcc]

What's your current caster correction method, bushings? 2 degrees positive caster should be good enough as long as your not going bigger than 35" tires.

Honestly if your not doing a lot of hard wheeling and flexing than bushings should be fine. They were the gold standard for many years and depending on use they can hold up well. But if your doing a lot of crawling and hard flexing than plan on replacing the bushings every couple of years.

If you currently have correction bushings and you want to switch to oem bushings than I would recommend either a set of radius arm drop brackets or caster correction trunnion bearings especially if your due for a knuckle service.

Goodluck

Thank you! Yes, running 35’s will be crawling occasionally however mainly fixing for my sons daily driver. Always wanted an 80 in the household so just doing my best to assure its right. Appreciate the bushing advice, they are factory now from what I can tell.

Thanks again.

 

[robnicko]

you'll be fine with bushings based on what youve stated above

Mine (ARB) have been in for over 20 years and are still fine

 

[mudgudgeon]

3.5" of lift will have changed your caster by approx 6.5⁰. (1.7⁰ per 1" lift)
Have you measured your lift? I'd expect to see negative caster on a 3 5" lift and no correction

The best you can do with bushings is correct by 2⁰, with compromised flex, and compromised longevity of the bushes.

 

[sunrk]

I run with about + 4.5 degrees of caster on my 80.

 

[DivByZero]

As @mudgudgeon said, with that much lift I don't think correction bushings are an option here if you want to get back to stock.

As a general question though, of which direction to go for caster correction, I believe bushings are a temporary patch, not a long term fix. Expect them to require replacement long before the OEM Toyota ones. That said, I think they can still be worthwhile if you're doing the work yourself. I currently have about 1 degree negative caster on a 2" lift. I'm personally unconvinced it needs adjustment, but my plan to find out is to fit caster correction bushings, just to see if it feels any better. If it does, I'll then make a plan for a more permanent fix, which in my case means cutting and welding. Thats because a 2" lift is an awkward adjustment, where you can't just bolt on a bracket to correct your caster, because it hasn't moved enough to be clear of the original mounting point. Caster correction bushings give me a relatively cheap and easy way to check if I want to go ahead with this kind of mod, but that's only because I have a 20 ton press and all the gear to fit new bushings on a random Tuesday arvo. If you'd be paying someone to do the work, you're probably better going for the end result in one hit. For that there's a variety of choices, but of all the ones available, caster correction bushings would have to be seen as a medium term fix, IMO.

 

[desmocruiser]

As @mudgudgeon said, with that much lift I don't think correction bushings are an option here if you want to get back to stock.

I believe bushings are a temporary patch, not a long term fix. Expect them to require replacement long before the OEM Toyota ones.

This is the same as my experience with OME bushings. They are good at first, but as miles (especially trail miles) are added they seem to become compromised and the truck settles back in (or closer) to the previous caster spec and worn bushings plus the fact that now the driveshaft seems to have worn a bit more and you really feel the vibrations and change in road manners.

Being said, you seem to have a truck with strong positive caster, if those are post lift alignment specs? I am not saying you don’t need caster correction, you do, you just started In a better spot than some and will end up post correction in really good spec.

Personally, I would have a conversation with Slee and/or Landtank regarding their caster plates (the best cost effective solution, I have both on different trucks) or Slee and/or Delta regarding new lower control arms, if those are a consideration to get their suggestion on how their products will impact your 80!

Enjoy! Awesome trucks, should Be lots of family fun!

 

[Origjcc]

This is the same as my experience with OME bushings. They are good at first, but as miles (especially trail miles) are added they seem to become compromised and the truck settles back in (or closer) to the previous caster spec and worn bushings plus the fact that now the driveshaft seems to have worn a bit more and you really feel the vibrations and change in road manners.

Being said, you seem to have a truck with strong positive caster, if those are post lift alignment specs? I am not saying you don’t need caster correction, you do, you just started In a better spot than some and will end up post correction in really good spec.

Personally, I would have a conversation with Slee and/or Landtank regarding their caster plates (the best cost effective solution, I have both on different trucks) or Slee and/or Delta regarding new lower control arms, if those is a consideration to get their suggestion on how their products will impact your 80!

Enjoy! Awesome trucks, should Be lots of family fun!

Appreciate all the feedback y’all, plenty to chew on for certain, will be doing myself so not looking to double up efforts by any means. Thanks again.

 

[landtank]

As @mudgudgeon
Thats because a 2" lift is an awkward adjustment, where you can't just bolt on a bracket to correct your caster

If you were to bolt on my 2.5” plates your caster would be around 4* which is within the factory spec.

 

[DivByZero]

If you were to bolt on my 2.5” plates your caster would be around 4* which is within the factory spec.

Thanks, that's good to know. Once I get around to messing with the caster issue, I'll take a close look at your plates.

 

[Delta VS]

Pardon my ignorance in advance- read till I’m blue in the face on all the different post, more conflicted than ever.

Running avg of 3.5” lift. OME Springs, Dobinson shocks.

New steering box made a world of difference. Tracks straight now, with zero wondering, just follows road crown, especially on country roads.

Question is - Caster plates seem will be too much adjustment from what it needs, and bushings have some conflicting performance from what I’ve read.

Any advice from those that have been there and done that? Thank you

View attachment 3413999

What are you trying to accomplish (genuine question)? You are in spec and say it tracks straight, if that’s the case, why mess with it? There MUST be some kind of caster correction installed if you have +2* of caster and a 3.5” lift. Keep in mind, over 3” of lift and mid to high caster has been known to cause driveline vibes in some cases, which can end up being a never ending loop of chasing stuff.

In addition to arms, plates, and bushings, also look into the chassis side drop brackets, but still, not sure you need much, if any, additional correction (because you certainly have something).

 

[leonard_nemoy]

What are you trying to accomplish (genuine question)? You are in spec and say it tracks straight, if that’s the case, why mess with it? There MUST be some kind of caster correction installed if you have +2* of caster and a 3.5” lift. Keep in mind, over 3” of lift and mid to high caster has been known to cause driveline vibes in some cases, which can end up being a never ending loop of chasing stuff.

In addition to arms, plates, and bushings, also look into the chassis side drop brackets, but still, not sure you need much, if any, additional correction (because you certainly have something).

My thoughts exactly!!!!

 

[Origjcc]

My thoughts exactly!!!!

As far as “what I am trying to accomplish” - just want to assure set up right for my son. Daily driver “school parking lot crawling” and an occasional crawl in the Hill Country with the family. Got the 5* Plates in and still debating on over correcting. Thanks again.

 

[rhc404]

I currently have about 1 degree negative caster on a 2" lift. I'm personally unconvinced it needs adjustment

I wouldn't adjust that either. That's a lot for no correction. I had 1.1 and 1.3 deg with 2" lift with offset bushings.

 

[sunrk]

Every inch of lift above stock height lowers caster from stock (+3 degrees?) by between 1.5 and 1.7 degrees. So 2 inch lift with no caster correction is at or close to zero.

I run a 3 inch lift setup with aftermarket arms set for 4 inch lift and have about 4.5 degrees of caster.

Negative caster is dangerous as there is *nothing* to prevent steering/suspension harmonics becoming hard to control 'death wobbles' also called 'head shake'. Fancy steering dampers aren't a solution (and should never be used to try and correct it).

 

[Origjcc]

What are you trying to accomplish (genuine question)? You are in spec and say it tracks straight, if that’s the case, why mess with it? There MUST be some kind of caster correction installed if you have +2* of caster and a 3.5” lift. Keep in mind, over 3” of lift and mid to high caster has been known to cause driveline vibes in some cases, which can end up being a never ending loop of chasing stuff.

In addition to arms, plates, and bushings, also look into the chassis side drop brackets, but still, not sure you need much, if any, additional correction (because you certainly have something).

Good call - no surprise, you’re right, started install of plates today and already have bushings.

 

[landtank]

over 3” of lift and mid to high caster has been known to cause driveline vibes i

I’ve done my best to educate people on this.

Lifts between 3” to 3-1/2” and wanting caster within factory specs are a vibration guaranty if you don’t want to part time.

Just outside those margins it’s possible to get caster within spec (2*-4*) without vibrations but the tolerances for the products used is very tight.

 

[AcroSteve]

Is there an easy way to check the caster on the 80s?

Simply, there needs to be a flat spot on the housing to use as a reference point.

are the radius arm brackets a zero reference? What about the steering arm mounting area?

What about the pinion flange? It should be possible to say at 0 caster, the pinion angle is "x".

Does anyone know that?

I've got a set of arb bushings to install and would like to know where I start and where I end up.

 

[AcroSteve]

Pardon my ignorance in advance- read till I’m blue in the face on all the different post, more conflicted than ever.

Running avg of 3.5” lift. OME Springs, Dobinson shocks.

New steering box made a world of difference. Tracks straight now, with zero wondering, just follows road crown, especially on country roads.

Question is - Caster plates seem will be too much adjustment from what it needs, and bushings have some conflicting performance from what I’ve read.

Any advice from those that have been there and done that? Thank you

View attachment 3413999

Here's a good video showing different correction methods.