Builds 79 FJ 40 Rebuild (2 Viewers)

[Chungas Revenge]

For a visual, I think this is what @3_puppies is describing to you.

 

[3_puppies]

For a visual, I think this is what @3_puppies is describing to you.

View attachment 3844254

correct, everything is centered or lined up

 

[RevISK]

There it is.

Looks like you might be in first?
Georg came to my rescue when it happened to me. Or when I happened to me that is.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

There it is.
“When I happened to me”.

Volumes are written…

I’m going to “borrow” that, stow it away for future application(s).

 

[Stevens79FJ40]

For a visual, I think this is what @3_puppies is describing to you.

View attachment 3844254

Thanks for the visual reference! I’ll try to adjust to neutral. I guess I don’t need to worry that I messed anything up until I have the clutch slave/master and fluid all ready to go and test then.

 

[Stevens79FJ40]

Been a while but I’m making progress
After months maybe a year of messing with my bib hinge. Heat, pointing prying, evaporust soak for months. Repeat repeat repeat. Finally it budge, then wd40, more budging and now! Smooth as glass!!!

Next, might as well buy a new aluminum radiator. New clutch master cylinder, brake cylinder. Keeping original booster why

Cleaned my counter console, repaired the hinge and dyed the console pad a king ranch brown

Now I’m stuck on the brakes. Rear drum, diagram show the jumper line going to the outside fitting but the passenger side where I have not yet removed the old line is in the outside fitting?…., so idk

The lines I bought from city or corps can’t remember, are bent to fit perfectly in that outside port.

 

[Stevens79FJ40]

Not sure if anyone might know the orientation of the break lines for these drums?

 

[wimberosa]

Here ya go.

 

[Stevens79FJ40]

So I guess it goes to the inner port passenger side and outer on driver side… glad you had easy access.

Just why I thought I could pull all this from memory is beyond me

 

[Stevens79FJ40]

Oh boy. Trying to button this up. Did some research on Pertronix ignition, what I found was to use part # 91662z but it is definitely not correct. Idk if my dizzy is from another year or what. Any suggestions?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Did you have points in that distributor previously ?

 

[3_puppies]

Oh boy. Trying to button this up. Did some research on Pertronix ignition, what I found was to use part # 91662z but it is definitely not correct. Idk if my dizzy is from another year or what. Any suggestions?

View attachment 3882831

View attachment 3882832

Did you have points in that distributor previously ?

if you had points, it is either earlier or from overseas
US 1979 should be fully electronic

 

[Stevens79FJ40]

if you had points, it is either earlier or from overseas
US 1979 should be fully electronic

Yup fully electronic. Cleaned up the distributor and sending some pertronix parts back. Abuse anyway

 

[Stevens79FJ40]

I’ve read some threads and watched some videos on a lining body panels and I’m at a complete loss. None of the mounts on my tub are tight so I can move the body around and I can’t get this thing to line up. Any observations would be welcomed.

 

[OlYellr]

How new/worn are your body mounts? Mine were shot, I had alignment/fitment issues and decided to start at what I considered foundational and go from there. And from there for example, my latest effort was SMG pins in the hood hinge which got my hood to 1) fit better as you illustrate and 2) not rattle. You could see the slop in the hinge as I opened and closed the hood.

To me, a lot like a wheel that shimmies while driving, all the tire balancing in the world won't address a bent rim. Point is, sometimes the issues are a manifestation of something else.

Again - my experience... My friend HZJ73 leans, almost twist really. We did body mounts couple weeks ago - regained 5 mm back in various areas - Driver door started to close better etc. Great - but still issues. Friday we decided to go more foundational, and bit the bullet and went after the frame to make sure it really is true - got it level, took measurements as per FSM etc - to rule frame in or out - it passed and will let Rus post on his thread - but it revealed issues with his suspension in doing that.

Fitment can be challenging AF, no doubt. No silver bullet from me that I see from your posts and what we are doing here in fly-over country.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Fitment is voodoo magic AF, no doubt.

FIFY..

I bring a hammer and a slopping forehead to those tasks requiring finesse.

 

[Stevens79FJ40]

Just wanted to share I little trick I learned for installing the Land Cruiser badging on the apron. The retainer clips would not sit in flush leaving a gap between the badge and the panel.

So I removed the retainer clips, used the handle side of a crew driver and taped them flush into the apron, then lined up and worked the mounting tabs on the badge into place. Perfectly flush.

 

[Stevens79FJ40]

Got a free day to work on the cruiser.
Hoping to sand/paint/install the roll bar
Run fuel lines
Steering linkage
Who knows what else

Curious, I used this video to install my dizzy. Curious if it’s fundamentally correct.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I didn't see anything wrong. They yak too much for me. If you are pulling the dizzy on an engine that ran - put it on TDC#1. Look where the rotor bug is pointing and the body of the unit. Then see where the rotor bug points as you pull the dizzy. Next look down and see where the slot is. Putting it back in will be much easier if everything lines up they way you took it out.

 

[OlYellr]

Got a free day to work on the cruiser.
Hoping to sand/paint/install the roll bar
Run fuel lines
Steering linkage
Who knows what else

Curious, I used this video to install my dizzy. Curious if it’s fundamentally correct.

It is