78 FJ 40 project Frank (2 Viewers)

[shipmag]

If your bolt is stuck heat it up with a torch to red hot another tip I read was use loctites freeze.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

If your bolt is stuck heat it up with a torch to red hot another tip I read was use loctites freeze.

thanks i have thought about buying a little propane torch for exactly that, as propane is a clean burning efficient fuel source that evenly heats at a fraction of the cost of other fuels. Now you may think that propane is just a gas, but it's more than that. It's a family gas. And if you've got a minute I'll tell you everything you need to know about sweet lady propane...............haha some Hank Hill influence there

I will end up finding something like a cheap torch somewhere, yesterday the ones giving me trouble were the back of the passenger seat right by the gas tank so i went ahead an bought some better sockets for my 1/2in breaker, in the long run ill get lots of use out of them. But I will have to get a heat source to help with the many other bolts. Right now its soak in penatrant lube the night before, then spray again then try to screw on/off then bang with rubber mallet or balpin hammer then spray then try again. Usually that works or breaks the bolt at the head but being in the beginning stages with this truck i am learning as i go


I bought the sams club jumbo size type container of anti-seize to put on all the bolts i am removing that will likely be pulled again in the future. Im still shopping around for which loctite application would be the best value for me



I forgot to mention why I named the 40 Frank. I was researching and thinking that for what I want in a 40 a 78 or 79 model would be a very good year
, the night before I bought the 40 I was just laying in bed thinking it just fit

 

[shipmag]

Try loctite freeze next to the gas tank i doubt propane torch will get it hot enough quick enough so you dont have any warping due to the time it takes to heAt the bolt

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

Got the gas tank labeled so putting back after floorpan shouldn't be a problem.

I like to use red stickers because they go with the green paint pen and are high visibility if anyone wants sku number for paint pen it's from michaels I can post up later.

Joking aside I think this will prevent headaches once putting tank in after floorpans and rockers are replaced. A previous owner spent 600 at a shop between two visits getting the tank sealed and plumbed, i dont want to open up that can of worms, figured they did it right for that kinda moneys. After that it's on to axle rebuilds and rear brakes and fluid swaps.


Has anyone used the jt fiberglass trans tunnel it's the cheapest new replacement out there and I figured I can fix my current trans tunnel in a year or two as I get a welder and garage but for now I need something and I would like it to be kinda nice.
http://www.jtoutfitters.com/transmission-hump-cover-7378-toyota-land-cruiser-fj40-p-2587.html

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[alabamatacomaguy]

Tried to get the 40 to the fabricator today, about a 45 minute drive. Keyword in the first sentence is tried, at five got stuck in bumper to bumper traffic with a wreck closing the main bridge out of town for a few hours. Decided to park it behind work a few hours and wait out traffic. Then big thunderstorms that are suppose to last the night move into the area. It's currently covered with a tarp and completely soaked inside at a parking lot behind a shopping center. The welder doing the rocker and floor pans seems pretty cool I am going to deliver it to him in the morning if the rain passes. I keep telling myself it took 35 years to get this rusty a couple days being drenched shouldn't do much harm.

If it looks funny I stripped it as much as I could taking the grill and other little parks to clean up in my kitchen sink for when I get it back hopefully sooner than a month from now. I am painting the grill white(got to find the right paint) and adding some bulbs to the cluster and paint to the needles to freshen up. I'm excited progress....maybe...40s never make it easy

I don't know what it is but people see the 40 and decide I want to pull out in front of a 3 and a half decade old vehicle at the last second. Otherwise seemed to run great except brakes are basically hitting the floor when I touch the pedal. I topped off with fluid and moved brakes to top of the list when I get it back with a floorboard under the driver seat


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[DSRTRDR]

yup, people always seem to think we are just too slow

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

The day has come that he was dropped off at the welder. It was about a 40 mile drive that took about one and a half hours. Drove good up to 60 mph then speed wobbles made it to scary to increase but that's plenty fast enough for me. The temp gauge has never moved up enough to get into the middle range area until today about 45 mins into the drive it touched the first tick in the range of motion. I'm sure it's probably not working correctly. I'll have to search for what's going on in there unless someone knows a good gauge cluster rebuilding link.

After talking with the welder we had some trouble figuring out how the real steel cruisers rocker panel would fold over and fit with the stock inner panel. If anyone knows a good link or has experience with this please pots up it would be a huge help.

My preflight checklist I found the back container empty on the brake master. I've had a leak coming from the rear axle I assumed was the axle seal like the front but now I'm thinking it's the wheel cylinder. Once I get it back I will look into what it is and my guess is I'll be rebuilding or replacing some wheel cylinders when I do the front end rebuild. For now I just topped the fluid off and I seemed to get some pressure back in the pedal but after driving today the fluid was already lower.

Anyway hopefully the floorpan and rockers can be done within the next month. I'm alittle worried about getting it started after the tank has been removed and the motor sits for a month without being turned over but that bridge will be crossed once it's time.


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[dustinuhls]

View attachment 888953View attachment 888954
the temp gauge never goes higher than it is in the picture, is that normal? This was taken after driving about an hour doing 40mph. The oil pressure gauge seems to move around alittle bit for the first 20 minutes of driving but never goes above or below the markers so I haven't been to concerned.

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I had the same issue with my '75 FJ40. Temp never got above the lower line and had me concerned, but not worried because it wasn't getting hot, so I didn't dwell on it too much. I really only drove it during the warmer months, so during the winter when I needed a heater it was usually parked. That was until my gf borrowed my daily driver Tacoma for a couple months and I froze my ass off driving the LC back and forth to work. I figured the thermostat must be bad and stuck open which wouldn't allow the heater core to warm up. Bought a new thermostat from O'Reillys that came with a new upper gasket in the box, and bought the new thermostat housing gasket separately as well. Come to find out, the upper/top gasket they send you with the new thermostat is way too big and doesn't seal off correctly. I realized it when I took the old one off and saw that it wasn't ever sealing off the old thermostat in the first place. Funny thing is that they do have a part number and sell just the upper gasket by itself, so I went back and bought it. No wonder I could never get the motor up to temp to properly operate the heater. The old thermostat was probably good, but the PO that replaced it didn't realize the gasket didn't fit. Works great now.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

Ordered the front axle rebuild kit from cruiser outfitters with koyo bearings and marlin crawler seals as well as marlin pinion seals. It was very good experience I will certainly buy from them again if I need something they carry.

I'm looking forward to getting it back from the welder and doing the work, kinda excited about it. I have all the tools but the fish scale but I have a few weeks until I get it back so no major rush on that, I'm also looking for the best bang for your buck tie rod puller to do the tie rod ends myself or just replace the covers if the parts are good once I get to inspect more( I ordered the complete kit from cool cruisers but now after reading wonder if the quality would be as good as what's on there and maybe they are good backups if mine are fine. (Side note right before fathers-day is a great time to pickup tools, I have saved a lot the last week getting special fathers-day pricing)

Also Just ordered the por 15 trail size from Eastwood and the sprayer nozzle spray for inside the frame, hopefully that's a good experience if so the fj cruiser will also get a frame coating since it currently lives outside as well
Some grainy pictures but getting ready for the patch panel.

me using my phone trying to picture out the patch panel going in

Pulled the grill I need to get that cleaned up and painted before the weldings done.

Just waiting to get my cruiser back.....Its going to be a long 3-5 weeks left..but good work takes time and until im able to weld this is a great option..... I'm ready to drive this thing to work a couple days a week and get to working on it.




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[alabamatacomaguy]

He's removed the rusted out spots. now hopefully it'll come together nicely.

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[tls3601]

Be patient, they ALL take some time unless you have unlimited funds..............yeah right!!!! Anyways enjoy your rig, I also have a '78.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

Making an update so I can look back at work that's been done and remember what needs to be done

Welder updated with some photos starting to come along fast now.

Got the por15 sample kit to try out. Hopefully it works out well and in the fall can por 15 the inside and underside of tube. Also got a couple cans of eastwoods internal frame coating for protecting all the good work the welder is doing and making sure the frame stays in good shape for the future.
Sanded down the grill bezel yesterday (few tiny rusty bubbles in paint) and sprayed with some rust killer. Will be cleaned up and painted white.

After peoples advice and researching/reading on here looks like I'll need a new thermostat(temp gauge never goes up) (i think ill soak the thermo bolts in pblaster every couple of days for a month so i can try and not destroy the bolts that seem to like to break) and wheel cylinders for the rear were leaking so I'll add that to list of repairs for when I get it back ill also get a pcv valve, an inexpensive battery hold down kit, return reservoir to try and stop other problems before they start. I decided i would go ahead and buy new wheel cylinders and maybe rebuild the current ones once they are out at a later time to either sell or put back on the truck.

So far the list looks fun for once I get it back. I've got the parts in the storage unit so far to do all of this work except some of the fluids and cv grease
Full fluid change (everything) engine, brakes,clutch,axles,trans,transfer,cooling,
clean fuses, dielec
Rebuild front axle and knuckle kit from cruiser outfitters
Front and Rear pinion seals with marlin
Install new tres or just put on new boots if ok
Top Drag link kit from sor
paint pen the knobs on dash
refresh gauge cluster, maybe seal better(it gets foggy inside) brighten up lights inside
try hand at fiberglass repair on trans tunnel




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[Rainman]

It may be too late but remember, when removing old bolts, use the blaster, or whatever, then when you wrench it, try to tighten it slightly first. If possible, go back and forth as you remove it. That gets the fluid around more threads and makes saving the hole more likely. And a little old hot rod shop bonus...
Using half and half Acetone and transmission fluid is the best penetrant for loosening rusted bolts. The best.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

Not much to do sitting at the computer at work figured I could post up why my name is alabama tacoma guy on this forum. I think i made the name up about 12 years ago when joining the ttora forum before pictures were really even used online much...56k was fast then, I had downloaded two songs. I lived in Alabama and had a love for toyota 4x4's before I could drive. Dont know where it came from probably friends around high school that had the mini trucks and tacomas.

I ll start by showing my past Toyotas and pictures telling their stories since i have just started with my FJ ownership

My first Toyota i got at the age of 16 after working for 2 years at a family owned grocery store to save for the down payment

1998 Toyota Tacoma V6 3.4
it had a revtek lift kit and 32 in mt tires, also added a TRD sticker to it(actually got more from insurance when they totaled it out because they thought it was a real trd so the 25 buck sticker ended up getting me an extra 775)
got off the paved road at least once a week for two years man i miss those days, the truck impressed many and was tough enough to run even though its owner was rough on it
i have more pics but they are from a time before digital cameras so ill have to find a way to get them on here in the future
lasted for four years until an incident which ill describe in the thread when i get time but basically hurricane ivan made it a total loss

my second toyota was another tacoma
a 2001 tacoma v6 trd with man trans
this thing was sweet it was built with all the right parts from the factory: rear push button locker from the factory (used to be very rare in vehicles) manual trans, strong motor, 4.10 gearing

modded this a little bit more
TJM front bumper, all-pro rear bumper, demello sliders, sway a way coil-overs, 285 bfg mts
more wheeling

some of my friends got into wheeling with clubs and groups which expanded my knowledge even further gave me more rides to go to and people to interact with

right before i sold it
never got in to much over my head when driving it so it still looked and ran good because of all the maintenance i had kept up with on it

one of the main reasons for selling it was because my lifestyle changed and i had to drive alot more and I wont have a garage or space for tools or parts for a few years and the truck was getting into its stage of life where it required more work which i was unable to provide with my schedule and non-garage conditions

would have one of the cv's crap out about every 2 months, towards the end, only had the swayaways set to 2in but something was off i think the frame was slightly bent from before i owned it and time and bigger parts made it really show. With help from a guy on ttora i wold find ways to make it better and he would help me install them, great guy. I even tried a manual hub conversion but the nickel and dimming of all the small parts and then needing new wheel bearings (apparently early tacos had wheel bearings pressed in so tight only a few places could do it 25 or 40 k pounds i cant remember) but no one could press the new bearings in the spindle so i parted the man hub stuff back out.

graduated college and worked at my new job for about six months saving for a down payment since the only fun I seem to have now is the drive to work and sold the tacoma to get an FJ cruiser.

2007 FJ TRD bought from a car collector that hit hard times only had 2,750 miles on it, think it was his Thursday car, I got a great deal.

I wish I could have kept the tacoma but thats life, what stinks is they are selling for a lot more now 6 years later than what I sold that one for.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

Got an update from the welder and some YouTube vids of the work. Looks like it's coming along nicely now.

I got the hardtop sides, roof and ambi doors from the previous owner. I plan on painting the hard top sides rusted areas with por15 and leaving until I get a garage and that will be a welding and metal shaping project down the road. The doors have what looks like a bb hole in one of the windows but I was able to find a replacement one from cruiser corps. As time and allotted budget allows the window weather stripping will be updated where needed and I'm thinking the hard top will go on in the fall.

If time tonight I am going to try and use the internal frame coating spray on my fj cruiser since I do live near the ocean. I've always tried to keep my vehicles looking like new even underneath.
Also ordered another round of parts from cruiser corps, pvc valve stuff, and thermo plus gaskets. The list of stuff grows but trying to be preventative to some extent.



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[alabamatacomaguy]

Got time to visit the truck about an hour north of me getting welding done.

Looking good to me I can't tell where the replacement panel starts and old metal starts.

The trans tunnel seems like it's been hacked on before. I think that's a fiber glass patch on the top of it and some cut marks. I'm not worried at the moment will be a good project for the winter. I will just get in decent shape to keep fumes out until it's repaired or replaced

On the way home from the welder I was driving my fj cruiser on the interstate which I don't normally do unless I have to. An 18 wheeler passed me doing about 80 and sent a wheel cover into the windshield cracking it and denting the trim surrounding it.... ..could have been worse but dammit give me a break....I need a weekend free from work to drink and relax and spend some time with my Toyotas. O we'll call to insurance company has been added to the Monday list of to do. At least I have full coverage on that one.

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[alabamatacomaguy]

Not much going on with the 40 that I can do since it's still an hour north of me. The welder has started on the passenger side rocker. The inner will have to be mostly repaired as well and a small hole on the floor patched up and under the gas tank a few small size holes seem like they can just be filled in.

I was able to get a set of rear jump seats in better shape than what I had and with all the little things mine was missing so I spent the evening cleaning up one of the seats. I bought them from a mud member along with a few other parts. Kbahus was his name he has a 78 he is parting out and was great to deal with. It couldn't have gone better, so if you are looking for something check out his post in the part out section. Now I have some hard seat backs and what I now know after researching is a fj60 overflow bottle and bracket I was able to make look new again with a magic eraser and a sticker from cruiser corps.

I disassembled everything and found the foam had rusted to the metal, not bad but something that needed to be taken care of. I sanded off as much as I could and then put on a thick coat of naval jelly to kill the rust. After that I spray painted with a rust converter to maker sure I killed all the rust.

Its drying now, I have to figure out what paint matches the stock finish the best. I'm thinking a semi gloss, maybe a clear coat over it. I'm just getting into rattle caning and making it look factory is my goal .

Does anyone know of a good place to buy foam in bulk/unshaped? I figured I could cut a pattern to fit instead of paying retail for it.

The passenger floor looks worse than it really is. After the real steal outer is welded in and the floor is patched he will move on the the bed and the rear rockers and I'll have it back.

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[shipmag]

If you have a hobby lobby i would recommend them.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

simply heating the bolt to just below cherry red will get them out if you simply heat to cherry, then wait for the color to go away. Heating expands then when it cools, contracts the bolt loosening it up. I'd absolutely, though, avoid dousing it with water because your body panel will be hot too - that will shrink the metal and give the sides of your 40 more waves than a parade.

rotate your tires

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

simply heating the bolt to just below cherry red will get them out if you simply heat to cherry, then wait for the color to go away. Heating expands then when it cools, contracts the bolt loosening it up. I'd absolutely, though, avoid dousing it with water because your body panel will be hot too - that will shrink the metal and give the sides of your 40 more waves than a parade.

rotate your tires

I am keeping that as a last resort plan when nothing else works on tough bolts. I have had luck with penetrate fluid for the most part when the bolts don't break. I just spray them ahead of time and keep spraying them until its time. I'm about to soak the thermo housing bolt for a month or so before hand as they are known for snapping.

I saw this video on how to make cheap penetrate fluid yourself that works better than most bought brands if it does as well as claimed.

If you have a hobby lobby i would recommend them.

I will try them out, didn't think about a hobby store like that, thanks. I was thinking I would like to try and waterproof or do something to the new foam so it will not rust or hold moisture. I was thinking maybe a spray thing like what people put on their shoes to waterproof them.

I sprayed a quick coat of gloss spray paint on the seat frames this morning before work. I am only messing with the inside at the moment which will be covered by the cushion, I want to make it look original before I try on the outside.