78 FJ 40 project Frank

[alabamatacomaguy]

I had a free 5 minutes so I got on to look for a replacement seat-belt on here and 3 hours later Im trying to settle on which roll cage i want ...... I think I have a problem... I never did find a seat belt option







anyway my main issue to get solved on this truck currently is the floorpan under the drivers seat has a massive hole and the seat will fall through sooner rather that later if i dont act on it.




I found a welder but he asked me to say my idea of how much i think his labor of cutting the old and welding in the new pan will cost. I have no clue on what to say or where to start. Can anyone help me get an idea of a place to start on if this guy works out he will be used many times by me down the road as i repair this cruiser. I dont want to mess that up

I might have found someone great for welding the body panels to my fj.

He is wanting me to tell him what I thought it should cost first just to see and go from there.

Could anyone that's had work done or welded for money help me out.

I'm looking for the labor costs to remove old and weld in new NOT including parts.

I'm trying to figure a ball park cost for welding in a new replacement piece for:

drivers floor pan
Rockers under the doors

I don't want to low ball the guy but I don't want to pay to much. I guess I want to pay him what he deserves and maybe a extra 20-40 for being helpful as a tip haha. I was hoping to see 200-300 to weld in but I don't want to say that to him and insult him. Or find out that it should cost 100-200 for his time or 600-800?. I have no clue

Any quote I've gotten around town from shops that will even tough it is sky high.... I don't want to pay 1200 for a new floor pan to be welded in

Here's some shots of his work. I'm pretty excited about the possibility of him helping me . I still have some money in my budget to buy replacement panels and have him weld them in if he's not to high a cost
View attachment 889387
View attachment 889388
View attachment 889389



Heck if he works out well enough this could mean metal tech or similar cage in a year or two


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[alabamatacomaguy]

Had some time to spend working on it yesterday. The main goal was To get everything out if the way to making putting in the new floor pan easier. But of course i found rust I didn't before. Looks like the passenger side also had a hole but it's not as bad as the drivers side where the floorpan is pretty much gone.

Got to met the welder about replacing the drivers floor pan and he thinks he'll be able to patch both side rockers maybe I won't have to order replacement panels for them as they get expensive quick when you get into inner and outer. And he also will repair some pinhole rust spots in the bed (about half a dozen go all the way through).

The drivers side floorpan replacement panel that came from the previous owner is from classic to current fab.

Here's some pics while I was getting everything tore down as far as I can to help him out.

It looks like the trans tunnel will have to be replaced or heavily repaired. If anyone has experience on swapping out or where to go if would help me greatly. All of the aftermarket tunnels seem to be fiber glass, I havent been able to tell if the oem was fiberglass as well. heres a link to where im thinking about getting a fiberglass replacement from...guess ill have to get that gasket to?
http://www.jtoutfitters.com/transmission-hump-cover-7378-toyota-land-cruiser-fj40-p-2587.html


I'm having trouble figuring out how the floorpan will be shaped around where it hits the trans tunnel. I've searched a few hours on here but can't find much help on the area. Does anyone remember a thread or have a link to something where someone has put in a new drivers floor pan? or does anyone know of an online manual that would have diagrams for the interior body panels?




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[alabamatacomaguy]

I got some free time and drove it for a couple hours tonight. I've got a full tank of gas I have to burn up before I unbolt the tank.
It's amazing what something simple like airing up the tires does for making the drive better. The tires on it have seen better days but until some other stuff gets fixed they will do.

I think they only charge 4%.... Isn't bad...... I think getting a portable compressor just got added to the list. I guess it's hard to give the little things like free air anymore.

The truck ran great, the motor was running/idling for 3 hours straight and the temp never went about normal range. I'm getting better at driving without power steering. Maybe I will hold off a couple years to make up for all those missed gym visits.
I wanted to work on it today but work held me up so just prep work like pb blaster again on all the bolts that will be taken out when I get time.
The motor might be seeping a hair bit of oil around the valve cover. I can't tell I really need to clean it up but don't want to put a pressure washer to the motor and risk causing more harm than good. All lights and blinkers seem to work.

Spent some time at the pay as you go wash. Cleaned things with simple green and brake parts cleaner focusing under the frame and front axle built up grease. I wish it looked as good in real life as it does in the pictures.
Plan on changing all the diff/engine/trans/brake/clutch fluids after the floor and rockers are repaired.

Found some info buried in the glove box which shows the previous owners spent some dough keeping it running looks like quality stuff.

I think in going to have to replace the ignition/key part in the steering column. I had a new key cut at ace hardware using the one I have that came with the truck but it still falls out. I'm going to get the code and hopefully get a key cut to the code from a vendor on this site that might not be so worn down and could hold itself in. If anyone has experience on how they did this please post up, I have searched and it's alittle confusing to me where the key code is. One more thing to the list but at least it's a small one.

All in all a good day for me and the landcruiser. It'll have to do until my next off day which hopefully will be next Monday.





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[FJ404345]

I had a free 5 minutes so I got on to look for a replacement seat-belt on here and 3 hours later Im trying to settle on which roll cage i want ...... I think I have a problem... I never did find a seat belt option







anyway my main issue to get solved on this truck currently is the floorpan under the drivers seat has a massive hole and the seat will fall through sooner rather that later if i dont act on it.




I found a welder but he asked me to say my idea of how much i think his labor of cutting the old and welding in the new pan will cost. I have no clue on what to say or where to start. Can anyone help me get an idea of a place to start on if this guy works out he will be used many times by me down the road as i repair this cruiser. I dont want to mess that up

AT-Guy, these holes at the drivers and passenger side has to be addressed of course, but IMHO you can still drive to the Patagonia and back before you fall through that floor

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

One step forward 3 steps back
I cleaned up a bunch of rust yesterday preparing him for the welder to make it as easy as possible for him. Used a rust converter on the frame where I could reach and the back of the tub bed area. It seems to have more rust than I first thought but I'm hoping a couple body panels can be saved.
I drove the 40 a good bit probably around 50-60 miles with no mechanical problems..... until today I found both driver side tires dripping axle oil and the rear pumpkin dripping as well, haven't had any leaks until now but knock on wood maybe i can put new axles seals front and rear or use one those rebuild kits at the end of summer or early fall to fix the problem right and for it to last.

The leak doesn't seem to major does it?? this is from sitting overnight or about 12 hours. I guess I'll have to monitor the fluid levels and keep adding to the diffs until I get it fixed but right now it's been added to a very long list of stuff to do

I've degreased and sprayed lots of brake parts cleaner to get them looking even this clean. I think some of the caked on grease was holding the fluid back haha





My first guess is it's the inner axle seal... I've never worked on something this major so I've got to research and see if I can do it in my storage unit . Im hoping to replace with a axle service kit, does anyone know if marlin offers one for the 78, doing a quick search i see a kit for the 79 and newer. Ive got to get to work so ill have to look later

link to rebuild kit thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/best-77-knuckle-rebuild-kit.793680/#post-9197342
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edit so I have information saved to look at later



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3CI4mmEv6A

quick summary of later model, makes me wonder if have to use tre puller just leave attached to bottom of knuckle and unbolt from there?
www.cruiseroutfitters.com

how to remove birfield, front end tear down
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/birf_removal.php

knuckle seals order
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/real-time-knuckle-rebuild-knuckle-seal-orientation.135627/

54 mm socket,
snap ring plyers (good quality makes difference)
good torque wrench
hammer
channel locks
cv joint grease(moly based for knuckle) prefer toyota if aval

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/minitruck-front-axle-disc-brake-conversion-for-dummies-faq.137225/

harbor freight able items:
brass drift
bearing/seal driver
seal puller
rubber mallet

misc pry bar

punch
loctite?
new cotter pins?
bearing grease packer?
toyota form in place gasket
assembly grease
rtv sealant
Knuckle Pull Scale
c clip plyers

 

[roma042987]

You better buy some tools and learn to wrench on this thing yourself or have a really deep pockets if your going to pay someone to install parts like tie rods and so forth. You allready have the most important tool you will need and thats this forum. I have seen guys with no prior mechanical knowledge do frame off restos on these trucks just from the information thats available on this forum for free. Remember rust is like an iceberg its nearly impossible to see how much is actually there until you get it sand blasted. Areas where you have pin holes will usually turn to swiss cheese once they are sand blasted.

That front axle looks like it will need a full service including the inner axle seals that are leaking fluid. I would limit the amount of time you spend in four wheel drive because those leaking inner seals have probably washed the grease out of your knuckles and your birfields probably dont arent getting sufficient lubrication.

Sounds like your tackling the jobs in the correct order though. Seems like so many people jump into these things by tearing them apart with a frame off with out even getting any seat time in their truck before hand. The more you drive it now the more attached you will become to it and probably the more likely you will be likely to stay motivated through the bigger projects.

 

[shipmag]

They say Marlin Crawler has the best inner seals. They also have the parts to rebuild the axels.there phone number is 559-252-7295. There are you tube videos that show how to rebuild the front knockles.

 

[shipmag]

add to your list flushing out the brake lines long term you will most likely want to replace them. Harbor Freight has a vacuum bleeder to help bleed out the brakes. I doubt it was ever done. Flush until its clear out of each caliper.

 

[ryaneddy16]

if you ever get rid of those aluminum wheels let me know!!

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

You better buy some tools and learn to wrench on this thing yourself or have a really deep pockets if your going to pay someone to install parts like tie rods and so forth. You allready have the most important tool you will need and thats this forum. I have seen guys with no prior mechanical knowledge do frame off restos on these trucks just from the information thats available on this forum for free. Remember rust is like an iceberg its nearly impossible to see how much is actually there until you get it sand blasted. Areas where you have pin holes will usually turn to swiss cheese once they are sand blasted.

That front axle looks like it will need a full service including the inner axle seals that are leaking fluid. I would limit the amount of time you spend in four wheel drive because those leaking inner seals have probably washed the grease out of your knuckles and your birfields probably dont arent getting sufficient lubrication.

Sounds like your tackling the jobs in the correct order though. Seems like so many people jump into these things by tearing them apart with a frame off with out even getting any seat time in their truck before hand. The more you drive it now the more attached you will become to it and probably the more likely you will be likely to stay motivated through the bigger projects.

I currently dont have a garage to work on it, its at a storage unit. By the end of the summer I will have a car port I can work on it and let it sit....only problem is its about 1000 feet from the gulf of mexico


My plan is and it is subject to change due to the 40s mod:
let the body welder replace the rockers and floor pans with the patch panels i have and as much of the body as he is able with the budget he will fill in some spots and shape some tin. I will rust convert/por 15 the body top under and inside the tub once hes done, and frame while the bodies still on. Basically due everything i can to stop more rust from coming and protect what i have without taking the tub off the frame.

while the welder is doing his thing for the next 6-7 weeks I l will train with videos and reading materials learning all i can about replacing the axle seals and collect the parts and tools to service the axles. about the time hes done ill have access to the carport again and should have all my tools and parts ducks in a row to make the job go smoothly. I ll start with the rear im assuming thats the easiest to swap out... seals and bearings and replace both rear sides, then move on to the front axle seals and do everything with the service kit up there, most likely add new pads and rotors if needed..im sure it will. then if i feel confident enough after give the tres a go. and then im sure ill have some stuff added to that list so i wont even try to think that far for now...I still havent even addressed the hard top


roma042987l

I just saw your from Huntsville AL
I lived up there for a couple years after college, nice city. Im from birmingham and recently moved to the panhandle for work.
You arent the guy I talked to from craigslist up there selling a hood and some other parts are you haha. Seems to be a couple 40 ethusaits up there from what I have seen or at least on sale at craiglist when I have looked over the last few years.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

add to your list flushing out the brake lines long term you will most likely want to replace them. Harbor Freight has a vacuum bleeder to help bleed out the brakes. I doubt it was ever done. Flush until its clear out of each caliper.

the fluid looks pretty good from what i can see in the master cylinder. That is on my list of things to do in the next 6 months, looking at the last few owners service records i found that the clutch master and slave were replaced around 2010, i think i read that the brakes are shared with the same unit? but i may be way off.?

Knock on wood until my knuckles bleed the 40 stops great and the motor seems to run great and all electrical is in working order, the shifting could be alittle smoother but i wont complain it works and is on down on the list of things to look at(maybe new boot or bushing in transmission)

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

if you ever get rid of those aluminum wheels let me know!!

I will keep you in mind if I ever swap wheels.

I was thinking I wanted to get the white toyota (wagon?) wheels to look more like a classic cruiser but after spending money unexpectedly in so many other places I think i am going to plasti dip these wheels white when i have them off doing the axle work in a few months, that way its an non-permanent way of trying to keep what i have and i dont mess them up if i dont like it or decide to sell them

people were right the cruiser determines what will be done next. I keep dreaming of power steering and other things but honestly Its fun to drive without power steering, and makes going to my fj cruiser with power steering feel like a sports car. My goal is to keep it a driving cruiser while fixing it/maintaining it/upgrading alittle bit/making it nicer without breaking the bank more than i have.....my house fund is taking a hit and in danger

 

[Rainman]

... i found that the clutch master and slave were replaced around 2010, i think i read that the brakes are shared with the same unit? but i may be way off.?

Yes, 'Bamaguy, you're off. Open the hood and see the master cylinder? Look to the right and notice the small single reservoir baby master cylinder? That's for the clutch. It's hard lines runs to the slave all by itself. The Brake master has two lines (one for the front axle/one for the rear) that go across the firewall down to the frame on the passenger side.

Completely separate.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

Does anyone know what this might have been for? I don't know if it's from a previous owner or came factory that way. From searching I haven't seen any others with the hole in the same place. The metal is smooth and feels like it could have come that way.

I hope to work on him tomorrow alittle bit and turn over to the body welder for floor pans and rockers. Once he's back from that I'll be ready, YouTube and mud trained to do the front and rear axle seals and then if nothing else breaks for a while maybe some new tires by the end of the summer knock on wood........ I hope.

I am also planing on pulling the gauge cluster to clean up while the welder has the truck, I'm alittle torn on if I want to sand and paint it or leave the way it is and just clean the internals and make the backlighting alittle better, the aged look on it is something to consider keeping. I'm ready to get this baby into daily driving shape.



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[roma042987]

probably an cb antennae mount def not factory

 

[Rainman]

Yes. An antenna.

 

[DSRTRDR]

I would address the mechanicals first (like the brake system flush, and front axle rebuild) before you get into body work - as others have said, you can drive this for a while before your feet fall out - oh, and I drove my 40 for almost 10 years with manual steering, wheeled it, too

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

I would address the mechanicals first (like the brake system flush, and front axle rebuild) before you get into body work - as others have said, you can drive this for a while before your feet fall out - oh, and I drove my 40 for almost 10 years with manual steering, wheeled it, too

Thats pretty much the plan right now...but with 40s the plan is always changing

I am hopeing to sneak away from work around 4 today to get to the storage unit and finish up taking out the pass seat, trans tunnel and unbolting gas tank to make easy for the body welder. Im turning it over to him at the end of next week and he'll put in the patch panels for the floorboards, rockers, build up the eaten away support under the floor and patch up a few other spots. Once I get it back from him in about a month ill have the new knuckle/axle seal kits and tools collected to do the job and knock out the axle seals, hopefully ill find some seatbelts and a few other small parts by then, full fluid change, oil, brake,trans/trans, diffs. Ill also coat the tube inside and below and where i can reach while on the frame with por 15 or a like product to protect it from rust, then a spray paint job to keep it looking decent and rust at bay while i drive it a couple days a week for a while and fix whatever pops up as time allows. My plan is to get a house in the next few years and learn to weld once i have a garage and then some major work on the 40 could happen but thats way in the future.

I have started to enjoy the non-power steering so thats not changing unless i stumble on an amazing deal that is to hard to pass up but power steering is on my if it works out that way list..... its not a must have. i dont see myself going bigger that 31 in tires anyway

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

I think my 40 wants to push me to the edge to see what I'll do.
I wasn't able to leave work early to get by the storage unit today. I did stop by on the way home and climbed under with a flash light to check on the leaking front and rear axles. I found new leaks from the pinion and I'm not sure of the source on the rear engine/trans area.

I think the pinion seal will be added to the list with the axle seals once the body work is done. The other leak I'll have to trouble shoot where exactly it's coming from and watch fluid levels. Hopefully it doesn't get worse. I don't know what a best case scenario for the front leak would be but I'm hoping something small and not to do with the motor or that type leak I can use a hose to move fluid from the tcase back to trans until I have time to fix.


I keep taking steps back with this thing. I can't wait until it starts getting better. At the end of the day it's only a car and if it worked perfect I wouldn't have a new hobby but danggit cruiser voodoo give me a break.

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[alabamatacomaguy]

I was able to sneak away and spend about 4 hours tearing it down yesterday afternoon. Pb blaster was definitely my friend, that and 6 point sockets with a large breaker bar. a couple bolts broke off but nothing that is a big disaster, mostly around the trans tunnel and the holes in the rocker that hold the step on.

I think my fj has been about 3 different colors starting at beige then red now blue. I also am pretty sure I have an aftermarket tank as it seems to be a hard plastic not steel, I'm not sure on what a 78 came with but what I have currently works so it's staying.

Underside of tank cover

I realized I will need probably need a bolt kit if I want to put this back together correctly, between the missing and broken bolts I probably have 50% of them.

Good news for the day is the tub has minimal rust under the gas tank from what I can tell. I will know more once it's at the body welders and we undo the tank all the way. I'm honestly worried about undoing all the hoses to the tank as the po had spent about 500 at a shop getting it sealed and plumbed correctly judging by his receipts, I'm just going to carefully label everything on the tank and where it goes and take lots of pictures to make sure I don't fubar something up.

It's getting close to time for the floor pans and rockers, I can't wait! This thing is fun to wrench except for the stuck/breaking bolts. Im looking forward to doing the axles and knuckles now.


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