Builds 75 Series Truck - VZ shade tree special (2 Viewers)

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Well, the good news is we got the wiper motor tested and found some bad wires. Thanks to @kc_chevota for the help.... We found the wires for the windshield washer fluid, after Rob tore out the column and cleaned the contacts as they were so dirty it would not complete the circuit. We also found some toasted wires on the wiper circuit, and replaced those. The good news is that all works now.... except the wiper arms will not mount up. Someone replaced the wiper the stud things that attach to the wiper arms. Look how wrong the angles are.

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I have a used 70-series LHD link assembly if you need one or you can still get them new.

Cheers
 
I have a used 70-series LHD link assembly if you need one or you can still get them new.

Cheers

Partsouq got my money last night.
 
I soldered in new wires going to the wiper switch on the column.

before:

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After:

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Then check out the awesome theft deterrent.... I might leave this.

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just add padlock...
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This thing, I don't understand, see the two beige pieces on the clutch rod... almost like you add something to keep the clutch depressed... (and yes, I need to get the right bolt on the clutch master...
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I soldered in new wires going to the wiper switch on the column.

before:

View attachment 2175428

After:

View attachment 2175429

Then check out the awesome theft deterrent.... I might leave this.

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just add padlock...
View attachment 2175431


This thing, I don't understand, see the two beige pieces on the clutch rod... almost like you add something to keep the clutch depressed... (and yes, I need to get the right bolt on the clutch master...
View attachment 2175432
I got the same thing on my Costa Rican BJ40 except it locks the steering arm to the frame. Must be Central American thing.
 
question for the masses. The top "lid" appears to have been taken off, and then reapplied with no weatherstripping. Is there a kit available still for this, or was it mastic'd on as it appears you would typically unbolt the entire top, not just the upper lid.


EDIT, just found the right image... I think it is part 63151-90K00 plus two sides. 63151B in the image. Looks like a very simple piece of rubber weatherstripping.

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Thanks,
 
question for the masses. The top "lid" appears to have been taken off, and then reapplied with no weatherstripping. Is there a kit available still for this, or was it mastic'd on as it appears you would typically unbolt the entire top, not just the upper lid.


EDIT, just found the right image... I think it is part 63151-90K00 plus two sides. 63151B in the image. Looks like a very simple piece of rubber weatherstripping.

View attachment 2176143

Thanks,
I just ordered the roof the other day. I think I ordered all the roof weatherstripping also on a previous order. I will post up everything once it arrives if you need any real world photos.
 
I also bought all of that weatherstripping and a new headliner recently. Mine are all OK but I wanted spares while I could get them.

I wish I could find an owner's manual that shows how all of that is supposed to come apart if you want to remove the roof, rear, etc. It's probably not that difficult but would be nice to know how Toyota envisaged it working.
 
I also bought all of that weatherstripping and a new headliner recently. Mine are all OK but I wanted spares while I could get them.

I wish I could find an owner's manual that shows how all of that is supposed to come apart if you want to remove the roof, rear, etc. It's probably not that difficult but would be nice to know how Toyota envisaged it working.
It’s super easy. Just unbolt and remove.
 
Going back to the transmission that is tore down with a bad countershaft... after talking with @cjmoon thought about "reverse engineering" ..... Recall that the countershaft is worn bad on first gear, which fits the issue of it popping out of first gear. Even though I won't use this on this project, I would like my countertop back, and hope to sell this to recoup some $$$.

I previously reached out to Georg @orangefj45 and his crew that is the US supplier of Terrain Tamer products. Looking in the books, it appears that Terrain did not sell the countershaft I need. 33421-60110.

So, talking with Jess, the thought was to make a parts list of all the major gears and see what is the same as on a 80 series that terrain does sell parts for. Well, I just did that, and all the parts seem to show up on 80 series rigs too.

Just sent Georg an email to see if we can figure this out. Does anyone happen to have a h151 torn down such that we can count teeth and OD sizes of gears to confirm or deny if this is different?

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Started to get the engine harness incorporated into the car harness... Got the coil igniter and auxiliary fuse box mounted on the driver side fender
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Spent about four hours extending wires and trimming the harness to fit the car
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Question... trying to figure out which of the bottom two wires going into the windshield wiper motor is supposed to be hot all the time....

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Started to get the engine harness incorporated into the car harness... Got the coil igniter and auxiliary fuse box mounted on the driver side fender View attachment 2179860 Spent about four hours extending wires and trimming the harness to fit the car View attachment 2179861

Question... trying to figure out which of the bottom two wires going into the windshield wiper motor is supposed to be hot all the time....

View attachment 2179862
I have it as #4 wire. Blue/white on mine. I‘m stuck trying to figure out how it all works myself. I can get low and high to work but can’t figure out intermittent yet. Post up when you get it working.
 
I have it as #4 wire. Blue/white on mine. I‘m stuck trying to figure out how it all works myself. I can get low and high to work but can’t figure out intermittent yet. Post up when you get it working.

#4??? If you were to unplug the motor, then looking at the connection on the motor is at the bottom left or bottom right?
 
Spent three more hours this morning and got all of the wires resoldered together and shorten to the right links and started wrapping the bundles... still using the old key ignition, But it started right up!!! Think I’m going to use relays instead of trying to wire this all straight to the 70 series ignition. Given the size of wires not sure it’s made to draw as many amps as the fuel injection needs. Once I make sure all the gauges work and test drive this for a while I’ll come back and wrap all the wires nice and pretty

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Going back to the transmission that is tore down with a bad countershaft... after talking with @cjmoon thought about "reverse engineering" ..... Recall that the countershaft is worn bad on first gear, which fits the issue of it popping out of first gear. Even though I won't use this on this project, I would like my countertop back, and hope to sell this to recoup some $$$.

I previously reached out to Georg @orangefj45 and his crew that is the US supplier of Terrain Tamer products. Looking in the books, it appears that Terrain did not sell the countershaft I need. 33421-60110.

So, talking with Jess, the thought was to make a parts list of all the major gears and see what is the same as on a 80 series that terrain does sell parts for. Well, I just did that, and all the parts seem to show up on 80 series rigs too.

Just sent Georg an email to see if we can figure this out. Does anyone happen to have a h151 torn down such that we can count teeth and OD sizes of gears to confirm or deny if this is different?

View attachment 2178566


Ya I got some H151 parts, iirc an input as well.

What exactly are you after, I have what was replaced so not everything.

Cheers
 
Down to one wire!!!!

On the 80 series Ignition switch, there is a wire that goes From the fusible link on the battery that then goes to the switch . When the key is in the on position, it connects to a wire to the ECU and several other things... Since the 70 Series switch doesn’t have a separate connector like this, I’m going to run this through a relay. I have two available slots in the fuse/relay box. I can use a headlight relay or the other relay. Need to look up and see how many amps the headlight relay is made for... edit 40 amps. Winner! oops loser.... it is a ground operated switched. Oh well. 22 amps should be enough, right?

Here are the two wires that connect when the switch is on. THe white / red goes to the fuseable link at the battery.

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looks a little messy, but getting better every time. the two dangling wires are an extra ground on the right, and a pull wire (to get another wire over to the column area through conduit.

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#4??? If you were to unplug the motor, then looking at the connection on the motor is at the bottom left or bottom right?
My connection was missing so I spliced in a weatherpack connector. FSM shows #4 being bottom right I believe if the motor was flipped for LHD. Don’t take my notes as fact as I wrote that down over a year ago.
image.webp
 
Thanks @Mr Cimarron ...

Really appreciate your assistance, as this gets very frustrating.... when @kc_chevota was over last week he tore it apart and we could kind of understand how the two wire leads had a connections that would break when the motor turned to the park location, but that is all I recall. I don't have low speed power at the motor, so not sure where that voltage gets dropped, I assume after the switch, but will have to work on that. I am going to walk down to the barn when the snow melts and try to find another wiper relay box as I also don't have intermittant. part number appears to be same on an 80 series.

Good news is I wired in the last relay and car started right up!!!! so, that means that all the engine wiring is done and integrated. This week will be putting the car back together, radiator, fan, and hopefully my box from partouq will show up....


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Pink​
30 amp​
Green​
40 amps​
0.50mm²​
Red​
50 amps​
0.69mm²​
Yellow​
60 amps​
Black​
80 amps​
1.25mm²​
Blue​
100 amps​
Found a fusible link rating chart based on wire color. Here is a link to the web page I found...

I was worried about how much amps this circuit is that I put on the 22 amp relay, and it appears that the fuseable link is the lightest, being a 30 amp fuse, so I think I am good!
 
I was worried about how much amps this circuit is that I put on the 22 amp relay, and it appears that the fuseable link is the lightest, being a 30 amp fuse, so I think I am good!
That information isn't super easy to find, but Ive found it really good to have if your messing with wiring.
 
That information isn't super easy to find, but Ive found it really good to have if your messing with wiring.
That is what I love about the MUD community, everyone sharing knowledge....
 

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