74 PA PIG

[smooth]

Sheezuz!! This thread boggles my mind! I’d forgotten about all the work you’ve done on this! You gotta make with the updates more frequently! The alternative fender-lip fab job has become somewhat of a legend, being mentioned several times in various threads.

74 PA Pig - *mental note* the legendary thread where the guy replaced his rear fender lips with ones from a utility bed (among other things)!

Glad I can contribute in some way with the fender lips. I guess it's good to be known for something? This group in the pig forum is very helpful and knowledgeable. The pigs are a rare breed. Happy people are sharing.

Sorry about the infrequent posts. I'll be providing some pretty steady updates to catch up. Stay tuned.

 

[bobm]

Mental note?? Better right it down. Where da pics, where da pics!!!!

 

[RUSH55]

In another year I’ll probably forget again and comment on the slot mags

 

[scrapdaddy]

In another year I’ll probably forget again and comment on the slot mags

Yeah, something I don't do.

 

[smooth]

In another year I’ll probably forget again and comment on the slot mags

It's my fault. Haven't posted in 8 months. Started the thread 1 yr ago. You're just reminding us you like the slot mags.

 

[smooth]

The roof is the one area I'm nervous about possible future problems. Reappearing rust. We replaced all rusted parts on the body with new metal but only patched with bondo the two areas on the roof. During prep you realize there is a lot of square footage up there. Took it down to bare metal, patched, sanded and prep for primer and paint.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Hey Smooth,

Is your headliner out, if so, you could stick a long flexible nozzle in each hole around the outer inside edge and spray in some rust converter. At the least it wouldn't hurt.

 

[smooth]

Thanks for the suggestion Scapdaddy. My headliner is in and in very good condition. That was one of the factors to not weld on the roof. Didn't want to remove a perfectly good headliner. Probably even more didn't want to get involved in installing a headliner if I didn't have to. Hope my laziness does not come back to haunt me?

 

[bobm]

Just dont use the chrome gutter trim and you should be fine .

 

[PabloCruise]

I must have meant July 2021.

Did I mention my daughter wants to get married an the property?

With the rehabbed hinges we wanted to hang the doors before going any further. Held our breathe and were very pleased that everything fit. Certainly need some adjustments and tweaking but they fit!

July of '21 works great!!!

Congratulations on your daughter getting married - you are going to be busy!

Nice work on the doors

 

[smooth]

Just dont use the chrome gutter trim and you should be fine .

Bob......is that the cause of the rusting roofs? I might have asked that before? Is water laying in the gutter and starting the rusting process? We were wondering if the roof metal laps over the gutter and water is getting under the seam?

 

[smooth]

Time to follow up with primer on the roof and front windshield areas.

Remember the A pillars. Came together very nicely.

 

[sahelzer]

Bob......is that the cause of the rusting roofs? I might have asked that before? Is water laying in the gutter and starting the rusting process? We were wondering if the roof metal laps over the gutter and water is getting under the seam?

Not BobM but will offer an opinion:

I believe the dark color roof on FJ55s encourage condensation up the A and B pillars when roof cools. The factory headliner is rubberized so traps moisture. I had my headliner made out of perforated material so breaths.

not really helpful advice since your headliner is already installed but just an observation why I think pig rooflines rust so badly.

 

[bobm]

Combo of things. Red 1 had the trim roof issue in some spots. Ornch has none and roof is solid. My O2.

 

[brainman22]

Time to follow up with primer on the roof and front windshield areas.

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Remember the A pillars. Came together very nicely.

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Noob question here....how much welding and metal shaping experience did you have before beginning this project? You are doing a fantastic job. I bought BobM parts almost 2 years ago and they are still in boxes. I have no experience and limited garage space and have contemplated using fiberglass to fix rust and move on. Would love to find a MUD member that would tackle my project for a reasonable price. My 79 drives well but looks bad.

 

[NikP]

... I have no experience and limited garage space and have contemplated using fiberglass to fix rust and move on.

If you're going to put any work in to it, I'd recommend taking care of the metal and not using fiberglass. It only kicks the can down the road a short ways before you'll be faced with fixing it again.

I also learned a lesson on body fillers when I worked over my FJ40. Regular fillers will absorb water and create blisters which look like a rust bubble. Use a short strand or long strand filler as a base coat where you might have water that can penetrate from the other side of the metal. Its water proof and will keep blisters from popping up unexpected.

 

[YukonCruisers]

I just reread this thread, damn, that's a lot of metal work, and a whole lot of sanding! Looks great though. @NikP agree, I coat all my welds in short strand fibreglass before bondo (and always get good quality bondo) - approach seems to hold up well.

@smooth I painted mine a couple of months ago, went with a commercial paint. Its a little harder to spray (I got more orange peel than usual), but I can already tell its tougher than regular 2 stage - I am under time pressure to get the truck on her wheels so haven't gone back to color sand, but will eventually. It's also rated for direct metal application, although I did prime.

 

[brisveganbj42]

It's great to see another pigging getting a bare metal respray. Having done similar amounts of metal work on my piggie I was struggling finding the most appropriate process to ensure any replacement patches I'd welded in were sealed and do not promote more rust.

After talking to several people I've decided to strip back any welded areas to bare metal and then apply a treatment of POR15. Once dry I was going to apply short strand fibreglass body filler, etch prime, high build primer and then 2pack paint.. the other side will get similar treatment to provide a complete seal where possible too.

love the progress @smooth , thanks for sharing

 

[smooth]

Noob question here....how much welding and metal shaping experience did you have before beginning this project? You are doing a fantastic job. I bought BobM parts almost 2 years ago and they are still in boxes. I have no experience and limited garage space and have contemplated using fiberglass to fix rust and move on. Would love to find a MUD member that would tackle my project for a reasonable price. My 79 drives well but looks bad.

I'm lucky and have a friend who was up for tackling my project at a reasonable price including bartering for some services. Admittingly I'm not the skill on this project, I have some skills but not at this level. I'm impressed with the work completed considering we are are doing it my garage with minimalist tools. BobM parts were the key to get me motivated. Don't think we could have reproduced the rear quarters and rockers on our own. Thanks Bob!

Remember early in my thread I mentioned I previously did a bondo lipstick paint job. Was starting to rust through after about 2 yrs. Put some time and money into something that probably wasn't worth it.

That being said, Bob told me "It's only metal." Hope you can find the time and resources. It will be worth the effort.

My friend did my 86 FJ60. We must be gluttons for punishment!

 

[smooth]

It's great to see another pigging getting a bare metal respray. Having done similar amounts of metal work on my piggie I was struggling finding the most appropriate process to ensure any replacement patches I'd welded in were sealed and do not promote more rust.

After talking to several people I've decided to strip back any welded areas to bare metal and then apply a treatment of POR15. Once dry I was going to apply short strand fibreglass body filler, etch prime, high build primer and then 2pack paint.. the other side will get similar treatment to provide a complete seal where possible too.

love the progress @smooth , thanks for sharing

We're using the Rust Converter / Primer Sealer on all bare metal, seam sealer where appropriate and POR15 in any accessible cavities. trying to touch every area we can.