62 FJ45 SWB

[SipLife]

I’m flummoxed wrt the VIN card with the 1964 model designation and the 2-FJ45-xxxx frame number. Those two are incompatible. That is not a 1964 model, it is a 1962 model.

But really fantastic work on this rig. It is becoming the early SWB template for original. Love the seats. Did you put the original burlap bottoms back in them? Great job!

And that strap is the way to “lock” the tool box. I think it was on all years with the triangle shaped tool box (through mid-‘63 at least, maybe ‘64 too?).

Do you have a horn relay? @hyhpe might have the proper Denso one for you.

Thanks for that!
It’s very interesting isn’t it. !!!!

The story I’ve been told is these truck were built but some sat off the lot and the last digit was punched in the year it was up for sale or sold.
It’s hard to tell now that I’ve cleaned it but the first three digits are forsure engraved before the last one was stamped in.


Thanks on the seats!! And the burlap fell apart !! I tried and tried but that burlap was so decomposed it just turned to dust.
I got a couple times of foam and REALY packed the inside where the horse hair was and out high density on the top and side then stretched the covers on. I’m pretty happy with them.

From what I have heard this was not an uncommon practice for Toyota in the early 60s. The number “2” frame number only designates the model year Toyota manufactured it. The reason for the “1964” in the data plate was either because the port of entry or dealership stamped the vin plate on the firewall some time after the rig was manufactured. The brass “T-66” tag date typically indicates when the dealership first registered or sold the vehicle.

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

Terrific work. This thing is a work of art!

Thanks!!

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

From what I have heard this was not an uncommon practice for Toyota in the early 60s. The number “2” frame number only designates the model year Toyota manufactured it. The reason for the “1964” in the data plate was either because the port of entry or dealership stamped the vin plate on the firewall some time after the rig was manufactured. The brass “T-66” tag date typically indicates when the dealership first registered or sold the vehicle.

That’s what I’ve been told as well.
Apparently some could sit for a few years before being put on the lot.
Again makes the truck a little mysterious. Not only is it 3 rigs in one (25,40,45) but the vin plate can throw you off.
Keeps it interesting I guess!!! Hahaha
When I first inherited this rig I had no clue. So a lot of 64 parts were ordered then later realized it wasn’t correct.

 

[SipLife]

That’s what I’ve been told as well.
Apparently some could sit for a few years before being put on the lot.
Again makes the truck a little mysterious. Not only is it 3 rigs in one (25,40,45) but the vin plate can throw you off.
Keeps it interesting I guess!!! Hahaha
When I first inherited this rig I had no clue. So a lot of 64 parts were ordered then later realized it wasn’t correct.

Nop notch work by the way. All these early 45 builds have me eager to get wrenching on my 63’. Can’t say it will end up as nice as this one though

 

[middlecalf]

So my VIN model number is stamped 1963 (which matches the frame number 3-FJ45-13048), rig was manufactured over a 1000 units later than this one, but was on the road a year before it was? Amazing. Makes you wonder where these things were piled up before they hit the market. I have a roundabout <slight> sneaky suspicion that my rig ventured in/around Canada, but don’t know if they actually got any SWBs directly.

Ok, break time is over. Back to the build. So what more ya done?

 

[Unimogguy]

Also that strap is to hold the tool box closed under the drivers seat.

Interesting! I wonder if that was only on ‘62’s? I don’t have it present on my ‘63 with original tool box (VIN plate and frame #13529) and I just looked at @jomelo ’64 SWB FHT and didn’t see it. It also looks like your tool box is a ‘62 and maybe early ‘63 only item? I’m not surprised that you have parts from 25’s and early 40’s in your truck tho. Makes perfect sense as a business to use the parts up that they had in stock.

So my VIN model number is stamped 1963 (which matches the frame number 3-FJ45-13048), rig was manufactured over a 1000 units later than this one, but was on the road a year before it was? Amazing. Makes you wonder where these things were piled up before they hit the market. I have a roundabout <slight> sneaky suspicion that my rig ventured in/around Canada, but don’t know if they actually got any SWBs directly.

Ok, break time is over. Back to the build. So what more ya done?

It would make sense tho if your truck was at a dealer that was selling more trucks than the original dealership that sold @HUNTER3DAN truck.

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

So my VIN model number is stamped 1963 (which matches the frame number 3-FJ45-13048), rig was manufactured over a 1000 units later than this one, but was on the road a year before it was? Amazing. Makes you wonder where these things were piled up before they hit the market. I have a roundabout <slight> sneaky suspicion that my rig ventured in/around Canada, but don’t know if they actually got any SWBs directly.

Ok, break time is over. Back to the build. So what more ya done?

That is pretty crazy! From what we gathered through family members they believed this truck came out of Canada before my uncle got it. I haven’t found a way to verify that yet so it is a little reassuring to hear someone suspects the same with their truck.

Lots of little items in the engine compartment. Flushed the cooling system very well. Restored horns. Cleaning up a few other items that haven’t been installed yet. (Relays,lights,knobs ect..)

I’m always on the hunt for original hub caps. I believe we found a couple Barried in the dirt around his homestead but that is one of the few things I will struggle to get to complete this project.
The others being rear window rubber. (Patiently Waiting on that one thread to post they have got their mold to work)
Also the wing windows rubber.
I have one original and it’s in rough shape.
Recently I believe cruiser outfitters had them but they have stopped production.
I have started to draw them up my myself using my original and have talked to mold companies. Might be my only option at this point!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

That is pretty crazy! From what we gathered through family members they believed this truck came out of Canada before my uncle got it. I haven’t found a way to verify that yet so it is a little reassuring to hear someone suspects the same with their truck.

Lots of little items in the engine compartment. Flushed the cooling system very well. Restored horns. Cleaning up a few other items that haven’t been installed yet. (Relays,lights,knobs ect..)

I’m always on the hunt for original hub caps. I believe we found a couple Barried in the dirt around his homestead but that is one of the few things I will struggle to get to complete this project.
The others being rear window rubber. (Patiently Waiting on that one thread to post they have got their mold to work)
Also the wing windows rubber.
I have one original and it’s in rough shape.
Recently I believe cruiser outfitters had them but they have stopped production.
I have started to draw them up my myself using my original and have talked to mold companies. Might be my only option at this point!

We (Cruiser Outfitters) still stock the wing window w/s kits fwiw. This may however be our last batch but we have 20+ in stock. More details:

Bug Catcher Weather Strip Kits for your 1958-1966 2x/4x

Got the bugcatcher window rattles? Cruiser Outfitters is proud to announce a re-introduction of weather-stripping kits for the 40 & 45 Bug Catcher style vent windows. Mud member Robert F. initially made these kits ~10 years ago, offering them at a price of $75-100 per vehicle (enough to build...

forum.ih8mud.com

Order online here:

Bugcatcher Vent Window Weatherstrip Kit - Fits 1958 - 1967 2x/4x "Bugcatcher Style" Vent Window Applications (WSBUGCKIT)

Bugcatcher Vent Window Weatherstrip Kit - Fits (WSBUGCKIT)

cruiserteq.com

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

We (Cruiser Outfitters) still stock the wing window w/s kits fwiw. This may however be our last batch but we have 20+ in stock. More details:

Bug Catcher Weather Strip Kits for your 1958-1966 2x/4x

Got the bugcatcher window rattles? Cruiser Outfitters is proud to announce a re-introduction of weather-stripping kits for the 40 & 45 Bug Catcher style vent windows. Mud member Robert F. initially made these kits ~10 years ago, offering them at a price of $75-100 per vehicle (enough to build...

forum.ih8mud.com

Order online here:

Bugcatcher Vent Window Weatherstrip Kit - Fits 1958 - 1967 2x/4x "Bugcatcher Style" Vent Window Applications (WSBUGCKIT)

Bugcatcher Vent Window Weatherstrip Kit - Fits (WSBUGCKIT)

cruiserteq.com

Awesome! Last we had talked you weren’t sure if you’d get more. Glad to hear it. I will forsure make an order.
Thanks!!!

 

[locklaw]

That’s what I’ve been told as well.
Apparently some could sit for a few years before being put on the lot.
Again makes the truck a little mysterious. Not only is it 3 rigs in one (25,40,45) but the vin plate can throw you off.
Keeps it interesting I guess!!! Hahaha
When I first inherited this rig I had no clue. So a lot of 64 parts were ordered then later realized it wasn’t correct.

I too have experienced this with an early FJ43 that I have. Axles are still ball and claw type up front with castle nut and split pin pinions, break line routing and drum parts are '71 and later and it has electricals (such as the fuse box) which started in early '72.

 

[sofj45]

So what i find interesting is the frame to engine number both my pickups 2fj4512016 and 12018 are obviously what I would awesome later off the line but my engine number is 3 before yours. Your 3 before me on vin. I figured that the 8 numbers between mine went to 40s running off the line but now that theory is out the window. I'm guessing that in the 60s it was a grab a part as its coming down the line put it in and stamp later. Very nice truck by the way. Love the build

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

So what i find interesting is the frame to engine number both my pickups 2fj4512016 and 12018 are obviously what I would awesome later off the line but my engine number is 3 before yours. Your 3 before me on vin. I figured that the 8 numbers between mine went to 40s running off the line but now that theory is out the window. I'm guessing that in the 60s it was a grab a part as its coming down the line put it in and stamp later. Very nice truck by the way. Love the build

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That is interesting!!!
I’m guessing the same as you. And thank you!! It has come a long way but still has a long ways to go. Been taking a break the past few month but hope to dive back in h soon!

 

[middlecalf]

The others being rear window rubber. (Patiently Waiting on that one thread to post they have got their mold to work)

Don’t know if you saw but these are available now through CityRacer.

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

Don’t know if you saw but these are available now through CityRacer.

Sure did!!! Thanks for the heads up tho!!
Put an order in the second they came up! Hahaha I have them in the shop and can’t hardly wait to instal. Just haven’t had the time and don’t like to rush anything on this truck.
I’ve got a handful of parts cleaned up and ready to reinstall. Including that rubber.
Unfortunately the last time I drove the truck a few months ago the starter became an issue. It can’t turn the motor over. With spark plugs out it will but everything normal the voltage at the starter goes to nothing once key is turned.
Something happened and the coil got fried causing positive to neg short on the system.
Was this caused by the starter or is the starter issue caused by the coil I’m not sure yet. That’s where I last left off and just need to get back and take that starter out again.

 

[Bear]

@sofj45 ,

Noticing that the font used and the striking depth on your red VIN plate is quite different from the standard-issue font as used on your green truck. My belief is that the standard-font VIN plates were stamped by a specific machine at the factory, and that round brass or aluminum dated discs (to be later added under a screw head) were given to the storage lots at the West coast USA docks where the vehicles were stored for later distribution to the early "dealers"/sales lots. Even though the lettering/numbering on your red plate was done with an alignment clamp, and that two different fonts were used, the loose plate was pop-riveted to the cowl.

This may have been all legally correct and allowed at that time and doesn't appear to be "home-made" or mis-aligned, although the "3" in the date is very slightly askew and the date font is obviously smaller. Many Toyota sales during that period were often done at small, local car sales lots that often sold other brand vehicles at the same time. An alignment tool and lettering stamps may have been a tool available to car lots that sold various foreign brands that were slow movers, and that could explain your red VIN plate and the conflicting date information.

(For reference view the font used on other Land Cruisers of that era)

 

[sofj45]

@Bear i was looking at the lettering on his plates aswell which are the same stamping as my red truck font wise.
Which like his "4" in 1964 and my "3" in 1963 are obviously not done at the same time as the rest of the numbering. But they are both the same fonts for the rest of the stamp. And then my 1962 12018 all looks to be done at once with a more precise alignment. Would be great to eventually come across some records from toyota and have definite answers on the early rigs. But until then love driving them and have fun working on them and speculating what it was.

 

[middlecalf]

Get anything figured wrt to electrical/starter/coil issue?

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

Get anything figured wrt to electrical/starter/coil issue?

Unfortunately no! I haven’t even been able to touch my truck in months. Life has been to busy but I’m hoping with the cold weather that will force me inside more. Hahaha

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

Finally got back to work on the truck!!!
Rebuilt drive lines installed and starter pulled. Today after taking it apart it seems like the solenoid is the issue. But the rest isn’t in great shape either. I have a short from the ignition stud to the ground stud and inside the case it looks like the ground is broken at the top.
Any suggestions where to find a solenoid?? And brushes. Or Any part I can replace and rebuild I think I’d prefer that. I’m sure I could solder the ground but if anyone knows of a starter in better condition I might even go that route.

 

[Unimogguy]

Maybe find an old school alternator/starter rebuild shop near you? I’ve had luck getting several starters rebuilt for a nominal amount from them.