60 Series Axle swap with the Trail Tailor Coil Conversion (1 Viewer)

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Well, I started the cop out exhaust turn down, but my tig welder broke. A few of the blades on the fan broke off and messed up my gas solenoid i think. Everlast is air mailing me a new internal fan, new gas solenoid, and new torch and hose just in case to get me back welding. Super awesome CS.

Got the turn down all cut and fit up and went to tack it and no gas. I Had an unused vband laying around, but I dont have any mandrels so its getting pie cuts.

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I know it says made in china on the back but this little 185dv welder has built like 7 exhausts, repaired 2 cast aluminum engines, 1 cast aluminum intake, and done countless stainless and aluminum bungs. This machine is awesome
 
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For the first time in my life I can honestly say it was the equipments fault and not mine. I’ve been putting down some truly terrible tig welds lately and almost kinda quit. Turns out my machine wasn’t pumping out any argon because the gas solenoid was bad.

These are far from my best welds but they’re not the worst either. Not too shabby for no practice in like a year almost. Yes there is WAY too much heat in this. I welded the whole thing in one go and didn’t let it cool down

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@Delta VS arms on. Erratic steering gone. Springs are center in the coil buckets from the 3.5 or so inches of lift in the front. If I had to guess, I’m at about 3° positive caster now. The steering doesn’t follow road grooves anymore and tracks straight and returns to center but it isn’t the heaviest. Honestly it feels like a stock 80 series. I think stock, the 80 is supposed to have ever so slightly less caster to help with steering the full time 4wd

I think I kinda started to get used to how +6 degrees felt. Super heavy and floppy. The steering is now pretty much right where it needs to be.

I think the combination of @TRAIL TAILOR s updated radius arm brackets, the @Delta VS radius arms, and panhard brackets have gotten my 60 more stable than any modified Land Cruiser I’ve ever owned. 80 series included.

I did some testing today in Mexico and hit speeds in excess of 100 with no issues whatsoever driving one hand on deep back roads. I also hit a speed hump doing 45 or so mph and this thing is just solid. The faster I hit the bumps the more stable it is. When I creep over the speed bumps it is more jostling then just hitting them at speed

The only negative I found so far in the testing is I get front driveshaft vibration that starts at about 37mph or so. I think I can live with that. Thanks to the dropped radius arm brackets I don’t think my pinion angle is as bad as it would have been if I would have used a more aggressive radius arm. The fix would be a DC front drive shaft but for now I’m calling it good


Also Huge thank you to @Nad Aitch for the radius arms!

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Right on dude - I'm glad you're happy.
Maybe one day if I make it out west I can check out the rig in person.

Definitely play with driveshaft phasing and make sure your ujoints are fresh before throwing money at things- I didn't which kinda worked out great for you 😂

I thought I had too much correction which was causing vibes but it was just a rear ujoint and front shaft "in-phase" causing vibes from 45+.

You're killing it with this build 💪
 
Right on dude - I'm glad you're happy.
Maybe one day if I make it out west I can check out the rig in person.

Definitely play with driveshaft phasing and make sure your ujoints are fresh before throwing money at things- I didn't which kinda worked out great for you 😂

I thought I had too much correction which was causing vibes but it was just a rear ujoint and front shaft "in-phase" causing vibes from 45+.

You're killing it with this build 💪
Dude any time you’re welcome to give the truck a spin!

Unfortunately my drive shafts are both very new haha. There’s like 5 pages on this thread of getting the rear perfect haha.
 
Ok so im working on a FZJ80 right now for @Dubs2017 and put a brand new Dobinsons IMS stock height lift on it. Basically Stock height springs, IMS shocks, and new tires. Ive been driving it around to compare to my coil swapped 60 series just to see how they fare back to back. Both have brand new steering components.


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A few differences i noticed and some notes

- The wheelbases are slightly different and you can tell. Mostly when slow (20 ish mph) rolling those neighborhood speed humps. The 80 feels more stable at the lower speeds over them because the front wheel clears the other side of the hump before the back does.

- The 60 is more stable over the speed humps at higher speeds. The body stays flatter and the suspension moves more freely, this is probably due to the MRR shocks and the shock tune

- The 80 suspension isnt as free to move as the suspension on the 60. It feels more "locked up." This is almost certainly due to the johnny joints on the rear arms, and the Delta radius arms. This isnt necessairily a bad thing, and off road the 60 would flex way more than the 80 would, but on the road the 80 feels more like a street car, and is slightly tighter feeling. On the 60 you can feel the suspension working. Keep in mind this isnt body roll or anything, the flexier arms allow the suspension to move and articulate more. It kinda reminds me of when i replaced my leafs on my firstgen 4runner from factory leafs to Allpro leafs that were longer and flexed more. I think if you were planning on running the 60 mostly on the road, I think the move would be custom length upper and lower control arms with oem rubber ends on them. I honestly am kinda thinking of trying this route out.

- The handling on both is largely the same tbh. They have the same steering stuff. The 60 feels more nimble and turns better because its 2wd and has a shorter wheelbase though, but just driving around feels very similar

- The 60 feels smoother over certain bumps, and the 80 feels smoother over certain bumps, but they are largely very very similar.

- The IMS Shocks are overvalved for the 80 series. Just like they were when i had them on my 60. Theyve got to be valved for a diesel 80 because they are too stiff. The whole reason i got the MRRs is because i thought the 80 shocks would be too stiff on the 60, and im glad i can soften them up. The 60 is lighter than the 80.

- Even though they ride very similarly, the ride experience in the 60 is better. You get that older car feel with the interior, its loud in there, and is more fun to drive. The 80 is much quieter, slow as s***, and more modern and comfortable.

- Getting out of my 60 with the LS and getting into the 80 with the 1fz makes how slow the 80 is apparent haha. it is SO SLOW. The AC works about 100% better in the 80 series though.

- 80 series brakes stop a 60 way better than they do an 80 series. Both trucks have completely rebuilt axles and brand new rotors, oem pads, rebuilt calipers etc.





I was kinda nervous when i drove the 80 that it would make me not like my 60 as much but I still would choose my coil swapped 60 over the 80 series.
 
Well, I started the cop out exhaust turn down, but my tig welder broke. A few of the blades on the fan broke off and messed up my gas solenoid i think. Everlast is air mailing me a new internal fan, new gas solenoid, and new torch and hose just in case to get me back welding. Super awesome CS.

Got the turn down all cut and fit up and went to tack it and no gas. I Had an unused vband laying around, but I dont have any mandrels so its getting pie cuts.

YXYmYVGh.jpg


sgn12lch.jpg


vTuxVxQh.jpg



I know it says made in china on the back but this little 185dv welder has built like 7 exhausts, repaired 2 cast aluminum engines, 1 cast aluminum intake, and done countless stainless and aluminum bungs. This machine is awesome
Are you back purging the inside of the pipe with argon as you weld the seams?

Edit: nevermind; saw farther down that you are. Good call.
 
Are you back purging the inside of the pipe with argon as you weld the seams?

Edit: nevermind; saw farther down that you are. Good call.
Oh yeah, always gotta backpurge SS. Even on something like this little turndown. The sugaring inside of the tubing is horrible without it
 
I did not even know that that existed hah going to try and pick some up and practice with it. I never make stuff with ss plate because I have no way to purge it

Selectrode or Washington Alloy are the two I have used and both are about the same. WA was less but had to buy a 10# box vs 1#& 5# box.

Cor-Met is supposed to be the best, but never able to find it locally to try.


Also used in code welding; AWS, API, ASME and passes NDT inspections.
 
Selectrode or Washington Alloy are the two I have used and both are about the same. WA was less but had to buy a 10# box vs 1#& 5# box.

Cor-Met is supposed to be the best, but never able to find it locally to try.


Also used in code welding; AWS, API, ASME and passes NDT inspections.
Learn something new everyday
 
Selectrode or Washington Alloy are the two I have used and both are about the same. WA was less but had to buy a 10# box vs 1#& 5# box.

Cor-Met is supposed to be the best, but never able to find it locally to try.


Also used in code welding; AWS, API, ASME and passes NDT inspections.

Welp, i now have something new to practice this month haha. Thanks for the tip. I see some 304ss projects in my near future

Learn something new everyday
yeah seriously haha
 

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