6” or 4” 35” or 37” (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter fjlau
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- lift new 80 owner suspension tires
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See, mud members are more than happy to spend $1000's on must haves to do some general wheeling that you could do in a Forester.
And if we're spending your money, mud will spend 10k for you in a flash
And if we're spending your money, mud will spend 10k for you in a flash
Or wheel the piss out of your $1000 steal as is
Unless you're doing long, remote travel, stock size tie will suffice as a spare to get you home
And not one mention of proper cup holders...
Yeah but what if the ocd is strong? Nothing like 4 37” tires and a 29” spare Lol
And I thought we were spending his money
davidp14
SILVER Star
You should never use an odd sized tire as a spare for a full time four wheel drive vehicle.
Bad things happen
Bad things happen
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Jajajajaj so I do my own wrenching and I intend to enjoy and own my cruiser for as long as I possibly can. At 300k miles my drivers side knuckle is wet and leaking so I’m just doing a full rebuild and hoping I don’t find anything else that needs addressing. I have looked at sliders and front and rear bumpers with a tire carrier from a fabricator Dtrfab which I really liked but for the time being I’m focusing more on maintenance and reliability. Making sure it’s in the best shape it can be before it really starts to take a beating on trails. Once that that is done suspension and tires is the next thing on my list.
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- #29
It had a new radiator and brake master cylinder on i y when I bought it but it does leak oil I’m thinking it’s the rear main seal after a thorough cleaning of the undercarriage I’m hopping to pin point where it’s actually coming from and addressing that.
Ok. Better explain that to the vehicles I've driven home from wheeling trips like this. They missed the memo
I thought you guy were limited in tire size on the other side of the Pond.
How Big of tire are we talking ?
The average tire on the trail over here is about a 37” they dig big holes in front of every obstacle. then here come the guy on stock tires trying to get through a 40” hole with a 32” tire not so fun.
If you’re just over landing sure it fine but if you’re trying to run the rubicon not so much.
Plus 37 just look good, sweet spot for a 80.
I thought that’s why mr T made the wheel wells so big
Personally I’m on 39s and a 2.5” lift with lots of cutting
I thought you guy were limited in tire size on the other side of the Pond.
How Big of tire are we talking ?
The average tire on the trail over here is about a 37” they dig big holes in front of every obstacle. then here come the guy on stock tires trying to get through a 40” hole with a 32” tire not so fun.
If you’re just over landing sure it fine but if you’re trying to run the rubicon not so much.
Plus 37 just look good, sweet spot for a 80.
I thought that’s why mr T made the wheel wells so big
Personally I’m on 39s and a 2.5” lift with lots of cutting
I don't disagree. The OP is talking about basic wheeling, not the Rubicon.
Biggest tie you can legally run on an 80 in Aus is 33". Beyond that, you're pushing your luck with highway patrol.
Guys run bigger, I ran 35s daily for years. Because they don't look stupidly big, and my cruisers have all been sleepers, they don't really raise an eyebrow.
if your profile location is correct, join us over here 
forum.ih8mud.com
I purchased mine with a 4" lift on 35s
I did end up needing to purchase a double cardan driveshaft to eliminate some growl, but 2" on 35"s should not need a special driveshaft.
I think 35s on a 2" lift would be a pretty good sweet spot
Get real rock sliders though
NC- Olde North State Cruisers
forum.ih8mud.com
I purchased mine with a 4" lift on 35s
I did end up needing to purchase a double cardan driveshaft to eliminate some growl, but 2" on 35"s should not need a special driveshaft.
I think 35s on a 2" lift would be a pretty good sweet spot
Get real rock sliders though
3" lift and 35's takes me anywhere I have any business going.
I started on 33's with no lift and learned a lot about how to wheel the rig. Then I added the lift but kept the 33's. Learned more, ran some of the harder trails in Moab with that set up. When the 33's needed replacement I went with the 35's. This is going to be the configuration I keep.
To be honest your first investment should be rock sliders if you plan on wheeling. You will hit the rockers on this thing regardless if you have a lift or not.
I started on 33's with no lift and learned a lot about how to wheel the rig. Then I added the lift but kept the 33's. Learned more, ran some of the harder trails in Moab with that set up. When the 33's needed replacement I went with the 35's. This is going to be the configuration I keep.
To be honest your first investment should be rock sliders if you plan on wheeling. You will hit the rockers on this thing regardless if you have a lift or not.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
35s are for pussies. 
Agreed
2" lift, modified shock towers, 35s, lockers, sliders, winch, custom front bar is where I see the sweet spot being.
Sliders for obvious reasons.
Lockers, well duh
Winch to skull drag your junk over shít when you're hung up on rear control arm mounts.
Modified front bar for better approach angle.
Modified shock towers for max travel without limiting up travel with modified bump stops. My 2" lift flexed every bit as much as my 4" lift because it didn't need altered bump stops to stop shocks for a 5" lift bottoming out.
With my 105, the things that stopped it most often was front approach angle, and rear control arm brackets, them getting diffed out in deep ruts.
The difference between 35" and 37" tires is 1 inch under the pumpkins.
3 inch lift and 35s is what I'm on but if I could I'd go 4 inch and 37s. If you are up for some fender well cutting too then you can get some amazing clearanceI hope to make it clear that I am not only new to the forum but to the 80 series community as well. Just to preface, I have a 1997 fzj80 and am looking to get either a 4” lift or a 6” lift with either 35” tires or 37”tires. Which configuration would be best for all around off roading with the potential for more as I become more experienced? And with a taller lift what supporting modifications or parts are necessary to make it work best. I’ve been researching some lift kits and they seem to bring nearly everything needed for a 4 or 6 inch lift however I have noticed the need for some additional parts such as an extended drive shaft and steering arms. What are the consequences of not having some of these parts ? And what else might I need ? I am well aware of how expensive this can get however as I said I am planning for the future once the LC is as mechanically sound as I can get it. ( sorry for the long explanation just wanted to provide all the info I could to better explain my question)
Also: some pictures of what I’m working with, picked it up for $1000 with 300k miles
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You should have just gone 40s since you your rig is a dedicated tow buggie..lolI thought you guy were limited in tire size on the other side of the Pond.
How Big of tire are we talking ?
The average tire on the trail over here is about a 37” they dig big holes in front of every obstacle. then here come the guy on stock tires trying to get through a 40” hole with a 32” tire not so fun.
If you’re just over landing sure it fine but if you’re trying to run the rubicon not so much.
Plus 37 just look good, sweet spot for a 80.
I thought that’s why mr T made the wheel wells so big
Personally I’m on 39s and a 2.5” lift with lots of cutting
BTW..wtf happened to Baldilocks? I heard he blew his front pinion?
Stock height and 33" tires will be just fine to clear the curbs at the mall.
It’s definitely not a buggy.
I went with the tires I did because there only 12.50 Wide.
All the 40 inch offerings are 13.50 or 14.50 or wider
You’ll have to ask Baldilocks what happened I wasn’t there when he blew his pinion.
