- Thread starter
- #341
Copper washer on pressure relief valves bolt is 90044-30026. If the relief valve looks clean I am not going to take off the bracket for overhauling.
6/'72 FJ55: stock drivetrain swap to '84 FJ60 drivetrain
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- Thread starter
- #342
Omix-Ada 17704.05 Weber Air Filter
Moving forward on the carb front. At this time, I'm sticking with the Weber 32/36 on there when I received the engine, to be changed out for an F carb when I get back to my main base.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...rivetrain-swap-84-fj60-drivetrain-15.html#298
The rectangular air filter element looked shot as there were areas where the metal mesh was bare and the (cotton?) gauze fabric was gone. These filter types just don't feel good to me but seemingly they can be just fine (especially for just few hundred miles):
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm
This showed up today: Omix-Ada 17704.05 Weber Air Filter $22 from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FQ1J86/?tag=ihco-20
Brand new and it already has many areas where there is no cotton gauze. This cannot be right. Are they all like this? Is there some better brand? Redline or K&N:
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/air_filter_applications_by_carbu.htm
To be clear, this next photo is the brand new filter. Gauze is pale grayish. Background is a blue paper shop "rag" well lit.
Moving forward on the carb front. At this time, I'm sticking with the Weber 32/36 on there when I received the engine, to be changed out for an F carb when I get back to my main base.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...rivetrain-swap-84-fj60-drivetrain-15.html#298
The rectangular air filter element looked shot as there were areas where the metal mesh was bare and the (cotton?) gauze fabric was gone. These filter types just don't feel good to me but seemingly they can be just fine (especially for just few hundred miles):
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm
This showed up today: Omix-Ada 17704.05 Weber Air Filter $22 from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FQ1J86/?tag=ihco-20
Brand new and it already has many areas where there is no cotton gauze. This cannot be right. Are they all like this? Is there some better brand? Redline or K&N:
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/air_filter_applications_by_carbu.htm
To be clear, this next photo is the brand new filter. Gauze is pale grayish. Background is a blue paper shop "rag" well lit.
- Thread starter
- #343
Surprise work out. Extracting iced in Land Cruisers is turning into an exercise program for me. Those wheel shaped ice holes are quite the fun to get out of.
Pig's back in the operating theatre.
Pig's back in the operating theatre.
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- Thread starter
- #344
No question about it, the brand new Omix-Ada 17704.05 Weber Air Filter is a sad joke. I visited some local parts shops today. K&N's look much better even though I am not a fan of the (cotton?) gauze filter elements.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=9106964&postcount=342
K&N's part number is K&N E-3952 i.e. it's 2.5" x 4.5" x 6.75" which are the dimensions dictated by the housing:
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=e-3952
What I really want is a paper element. WIX (Napa Gold) does not seem to have a filter for this.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/572196-part-weber-air-filter.html#2
I have run into a lot of dead ends for a paper filter but they are out there somewhere. For example, I have clips for a 2.5" high filter (64mm) and here's a 55mm tall filter and housing for a Weber DGV 32/36:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/32-36-DG...PERFORMANCE-AIR-FILTER-ASSEMBLY-/171252353134
And more sightings from Australia:
http://www.weberperformance.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=36_267&products_id=1099
http://racecarparts.com.au/engine-i...uits-rectangular-filters/category_pathway-718
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=9106964&postcount=342
K&N's part number is K&N E-3952 i.e. it's 2.5" x 4.5" x 6.75" which are the dimensions dictated by the housing:
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=e-3952
What I really want is a paper element. WIX (Napa Gold) does not seem to have a filter for this.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/572196-part-weber-air-filter.html#2
I have run into a lot of dead ends for a paper filter but they are out there somewhere. For example, I have clips for a 2.5" high filter (64mm) and here's a 55mm tall filter and housing for a Weber DGV 32/36:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/32-36-DG...PERFORMANCE-AIR-FILTER-ASSEMBLY-/171252353134
And more sightings from Australia:
http://www.weberperformance.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=36_267&products_id=1099
http://racecarparts.com.au/engine-i...uits-rectangular-filters/category_pathway-718
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- Thread starter
- #345
Weber to FJ60 air cleaner adaptor
This looks like a Redline Weber 99010.302 adaptor. Man-A-Fre actually has a very good price (99010.302K), and it looks like they even tapped it with a bronze beaded step for accommodating a small air hose from a PCV valve or 2F distributor cap breather.
http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/WeberCarburetorParts&Accessories.htm
The 2F I'm installing came with a Weber DGV 32/36 carb with this adaptor between it and the stock air cleaner, which contained a dry paper filter element. All in all that seems like a decent Weber and air cleaner solution the PO went for (except it should have been a 38 DGAS), better than an aftermarket design involving an open filter (like these default air cleaners that ship in Weber kits). I'll try putting all those bits on the Weber 38 in my 1975 FJ40.
For now the set up on the 2F has to go as the FJ60 air cleaner does not fit under the early FJ55 hood ergo this fooling around with the rectangular air cleaner which sits on top of the carb that Redline Weber provides in their kits (you'd think there would be enough market demand such that WIX would make a filter for it...).
The dead F motor has a Weber DGV 32/36 as well; that's where I got this rectangular air cleaner housing from, which actually seems like a decent minimalist open filter design (the air cleaner "housing", not the carb) but, please, a paper filter element.
I have to wonder if the dead F's old gauze-in-metal-mesh filter element with areas of blown out gauze didn't help contribute to the engine's demise.
P.S. Here's some verbiage from Redline about the 38 versus 32/36 choice:
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Types/making_the_right_choice.htm
"Designed for engines displacing 1200cc-2300cc, the DGV Series carbs feature diaphragm type accelerator pump circuits and models with manual, water or electric choke actuation. The DGV also has a power valve circuit to facilitate low vacuum running conditions."
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/making_the_right_choice_32.htm
"The 38mm DGAS carb should be the only consideration if the engine is in the future or currently going to have any level of additional engine modification. Such as headers, free flowing exhaust, a cam, or rebuilt engine. Usually these motors will be improved over stock with oversize pistons and towing cam. The 38 will enhance the improvements of any of these items. The 6 cylinder engine applications are particularly enhanced by this application. In-fact on ALL JEEP and LAND CRUSER applications with any upgrades this is a mandatory choice. Other wise the progressive will require extensive re-calibration to work properly. "
This looks like a Redline Weber 99010.302 adaptor. Man-A-Fre actually has a very good price (99010.302K), and it looks like they even tapped it with a bronze beaded step for accommodating a small air hose from a PCV valve or 2F distributor cap breather.
http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/WeberCarburetorParts&Accessories.htm
The 2F I'm installing came with a Weber DGV 32/36 carb with this adaptor between it and the stock air cleaner, which contained a dry paper filter element. All in all that seems like a decent Weber and air cleaner solution the PO went for (except it should have been a 38 DGAS), better than an aftermarket design involving an open filter (like these default air cleaners that ship in Weber kits). I'll try putting all those bits on the Weber 38 in my 1975 FJ40.
For now the set up on the 2F has to go as the FJ60 air cleaner does not fit under the early FJ55 hood ergo this fooling around with the rectangular air cleaner which sits on top of the carb that Redline Weber provides in their kits (you'd think there would be enough market demand such that WIX would make a filter for it...).
The dead F motor has a Weber DGV 32/36 as well; that's where I got this rectangular air cleaner housing from, which actually seems like a decent minimalist open filter design (the air cleaner "housing", not the carb) but, please, a paper filter element.
I have to wonder if the dead F's old gauze-in-metal-mesh filter element with areas of blown out gauze didn't help contribute to the engine's demise.
P.S. Here's some verbiage from Redline about the 38 versus 32/36 choice:
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Types/making_the_right_choice.htm
"Designed for engines displacing 1200cc-2300cc, the DGV Series carbs feature diaphragm type accelerator pump circuits and models with manual, water or electric choke actuation. The DGV also has a power valve circuit to facilitate low vacuum running conditions."
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/making_the_right_choice_32.htm
"The 38mm DGAS carb should be the only consideration if the engine is in the future or currently going to have any level of additional engine modification. Such as headers, free flowing exhaust, a cam, or rebuilt engine. Usually these motors will be improved over stock with oversize pistons and towing cam. The 38 will enhance the improvements of any of these items. The 6 cylinder engine applications are particularly enhanced by this application. In-fact on ALL JEEP and LAND CRUSER applications with any upgrades this is a mandatory choice. Other wise the progressive will require extensive re-calibration to work properly. "
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- Thread starter
- #346
Air pre-filter
I found this pre-filter today at NAPA. At about US$4 these foam pre-filters are disposable so some adhesive or tape to complete the filter to air cleaner housing seal seems like it should happen even if the pre-filter gets destroyed upon removal.
Outerwear prefilter nylon mesh bags over the whole air cleaner assembly might be the final logical step in this whole open air-filter dead end.
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/filterrectrd.html
The "chrome" housing itself looks like it is the same thing as this Empi product:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BJPYDMQ/?tag=ihco-20
Enclosed filter housings seem much wiser if the Land Cruiser is going to cruise over anything besides dry, clean pavement but what do I know. I'll try switching to a stock F air cleaner 500 miles down the road.
As Man-A-Fre put it:
http://man-a-fre.com/pa/webercarburetorkits.htm
"No changing to a smaller, open air cleaner that's noisy, susceptible to water intake, draws hot air in from your radiator, and is less efficient than your stock air cleaner."
I found this pre-filter today at NAPA. At about US$4 these foam pre-filters are disposable so some adhesive or tape to complete the filter to air cleaner housing seal seems like it should happen even if the pre-filter gets destroyed upon removal.
Outerwear prefilter nylon mesh bags over the whole air cleaner assembly might be the final logical step in this whole open air-filter dead end.
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/filterrectrd.html
The "chrome" housing itself looks like it is the same thing as this Empi product:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BJPYDMQ/?tag=ihco-20
Enclosed filter housings seem much wiser if the Land Cruiser is going to cruise over anything besides dry, clean pavement but what do I know. I'll try switching to a stock F air cleaner 500 miles down the road.
As Man-A-Fre put it:
http://man-a-fre.com/pa/webercarburetorkits.htm
"No changing to a smaller, open air cleaner that's noisy, susceptible to water intake, draws hot air in from your radiator, and is less efficient than your stock air cleaner."
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- Thread starter
- #347
2F carb and emissions transplant from FJ60 to FJ55
Change of plan. I was planning on keeping the Weber 32/36 that came with the 2F until I could get a F carb rebuilt and installed. But then this weekend I realized I have an unmolested stock carb and emmissions components set-up in the donor FJ60. No better carb for a FJ60 2F than the one that came with it, is what I hear. This will be as stock as possible (and happily consistent with this thread's title): 2F engine, 2F large cap distributor, 2F carb, 2F emissions system. Everything comes out of one truck (a 10/83 FJ60) except for the engine which comes out of a ?/84 FJ60. I think that is a completely matching set of parts.
The 2F I am installing was desmogged and Webered by a PO. The 2F in the donor FJ60 (a separate 2F than the one I am installing) is completely stock. So, next few posts will be about pulling off the carb and related stuff. I am going to use the Borick and Jim C desmog document as the parts list for what should be taken off the FJ60 and put on the FJ55 resulting in desmogged FJ60 set up in a 6/72 FJ55.
How to Desmog an FJ60 (PDF):
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=517068&d=1304299989
The more "complicated" parts sound like they will be modifying things to get the stock FJ60 air cleaner to fit under an early hood, as well as converting the throttle linkage from mechanical to cable. The latter is well documented here on MUD. The hood part is less so but either the hood or the air cleaner needs to be cut and welded. When I test fitted everything (installed the 2F and the early FJ55 hood) it could close but the air cleaner hit the hood.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8788187&postcount=32
I get the feeling that the FJ60 air cleaner will fit under skin of the hood. The interference is hopefully just with the brace on the underside of the hood.
Change of plan. I was planning on keeping the Weber 32/36 that came with the 2F until I could get a F carb rebuilt and installed. But then this weekend I realized I have an unmolested stock carb and emmissions components set-up in the donor FJ60. No better carb for a FJ60 2F than the one that came with it, is what I hear. This will be as stock as possible (and happily consistent with this thread's title): 2F engine, 2F large cap distributor, 2F carb, 2F emissions system. Everything comes out of one truck (a 10/83 FJ60) except for the engine which comes out of a ?/84 FJ60. I think that is a completely matching set of parts.
The 2F I am installing was desmogged and Webered by a PO. The 2F in the donor FJ60 (a separate 2F than the one I am installing) is completely stock. So, next few posts will be about pulling off the carb and related stuff. I am going to use the Borick and Jim C desmog document as the parts list for what should be taken off the FJ60 and put on the FJ55 resulting in desmogged FJ60 set up in a 6/72 FJ55.
How to Desmog an FJ60 (PDF):
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=517068&d=1304299989
The more "complicated" parts sound like they will be modifying things to get the stock FJ60 air cleaner to fit under an early hood, as well as converting the throttle linkage from mechanical to cable. The latter is well documented here on MUD. The hood part is less so but either the hood or the air cleaner needs to be cut and welded. When I test fitted everything (installed the 2F and the early FJ55 hood) it could close but the air cleaner hit the hood.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8788187&postcount=32
I get the feeling that the FJ60 air cleaner will fit under skin of the hood. The interference is hopefully just with the brace on the underside of the hood.
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- Thread starter
- #348
Carb and emissions from FJ60 drivers fender
Page 19 of the Desmog HOWTO is the checklist diagram for what will be needed.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=517068&d=1304299989
On the driver's fender that means:
VCV for EVAP (driver side)
Decel vacuum switch
the HAC valve (This seems optional but I'm grabbing maximally)
AC idle up VSV (might be able to ignore this but grabbing it anyway)
Here's all that, I think. In stock context and also separated from everything that stays behind.
Page 19 of the Desmog HOWTO is the checklist diagram for what will be needed.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=517068&d=1304299989
On the driver's fender that means:
VCV for EVAP (driver side)
Decel vacuum switch
the HAC valve (This seems optional but I'm grabbing maximally)
AC idle up VSV (might be able to ignore this but grabbing it anyway)
Here's all that, I think. In stock context and also separated from everything that stays behind.
My Dad would have called that, a plumber's nightmare and I agree with him. That's a whole lot of tubing.
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Keeping in mind that most of the emissions control stuff is not on the engine, but rather is mounted to the gas tank, charcoal canister, fender rack, etc., there is no real need to bring the body wire harness and vacuum hoses over to the un-smogged 72 FJ55 body. Focus on getting the simple 1972 smog stuff routed correctly.
Good call on using all the FJ60 carb, manifolds, valve cover, aircleaner. It is a compact package, to clear under the "low & modern" hood of the new FJ60. If it still has real interference problems w/ the hood, just lay a piece of foam on top of the air cleaner and slam the hood a few times.
Or get a power bulge hood from 75-newer pig.
The throttle pedal & linkage is transferable with some measuring & fitting.
The choke cable will require a stopper on the end, no biggie.
The 72 body doesn't have return fuel line, so either use a E-78 fuel pump and 75-78 fuel feed line, or use the 79-87 FP & hardline, capping off the unneeded return port on the pump.
Good call on using all the FJ60 carb, manifolds, valve cover, aircleaner. It is a compact package, to clear under the "low & modern" hood of the new FJ60. If it still has real interference problems w/ the hood, just lay a piece of foam on top of the air cleaner and slam the hood a few times.
Or get a power bulge hood from 75-newer pig.
The throttle pedal & linkage is transferable with some measuring & fitting.
The choke cable will require a stopper on the end, no biggie.
The 72 body doesn't have return fuel line, so either use a E-78 fuel pump and 75-78 fuel feed line, or use the 79-87 FP & hardline, capping off the unneeded return port on the pump.
- Thread starter
- #351
This truck seems to have an aftermarket 30 gallon gas tank, with a capped provision for a return line.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...rivetrain-swap-84-fj60-drivetrain-13.html#242
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...rivetrain-swap-84-fj60-drivetrain-13.html#259
So, this truck should be able to mimic the FJ60 fuel lines that go with the 3 lines fuel pump on the 2F by adding a fuel return line.
I'll grab the gas pedal and linkage tomorrow. Might as well grab the whole choke cable back to the knob on the dash.
Here's the before and after.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...rivetrain-swap-84-fj60-drivetrain-13.html#242
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...rivetrain-swap-84-fj60-drivetrain-13.html#259
So, this truck should be able to mimic the FJ60 fuel lines that go with the 3 lines fuel pump on the 2F by adding a fuel return line.
I'll grab the gas pedal and linkage tomorrow. Might as well grab the whole choke cable back to the knob on the dash.
Here's the before and after.
- Thread starter
- #352
Pulled carb and supporting characters
Here's what got pulled today.
Here's what got pulled today.
- Joined
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- Threads
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- 11,199
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Excellent!
Grab the hardline(s) & clips from underneath the donor FJ60, and you'll have a 5' long hard line that is already bent upward at each end and beaded.
Using the whole FJ60 choke cable? Brilliant!
I've always modded the stock cable or carb, but keeping the entire choke cable, gas pedal and carb as a matched system is even more elegant.
- Thread starter
- #354
More FJ60 carb paraphernalia
The choke cable assembly; FJ60 has a chock-is-on warning light so that must be what the electrical plug is for.
Gas pedal and linkage.
The choke cable assembly; FJ60 has a chock-is-on warning light so that must be what the electrical plug is for.
Gas pedal and linkage.
- Thread starter
- #355
Choke pulls
The FJ60 choke knob and cable looks like a great fit for the FJ55 getting a FJ60 2F.
First picture is the stock FJ55 knob with its awesome icon; in the background is the hole in the dash where the knob mounts. The hole is not round and would need to be made so to take the FJ60 chock pull. There is enough room behind the dash for the FJ60 choke pull to fit.
Second picture is where I stuck the choke pull for now as the dash came with a perfect capped hole for mounting it. The knob does not look too out of place. So, a few minutes of shaping that stock mount hole to full circular and it should be an easy win.
Third and fourth pictures are a comparison of the FJ55 and FJ60 chock pulls and trim. If you look at the rod where the knob screws onto the FJ60 choke pull it is hollow. Perhaps the threaded end can be cut off and the FJ55's knob and bit of it's rod can be cut off and inserted and attached some how. That way when installed the choke will look stock on the dash.
For now, keeping it simply and just affixing the FJ60 chock pull as is in the extra mount hole.
The FJ60 choke knob and cable looks like a great fit for the FJ55 getting a FJ60 2F.
First picture is the stock FJ55 knob with its awesome icon; in the background is the hole in the dash where the knob mounts. The hole is not round and would need to be made so to take the FJ60 chock pull. There is enough room behind the dash for the FJ60 choke pull to fit.
Second picture is where I stuck the choke pull for now as the dash came with a perfect capped hole for mounting it. The knob does not look too out of place. So, a few minutes of shaping that stock mount hole to full circular and it should be an easy win.
Third and fourth pictures are a comparison of the FJ55 and FJ60 chock pulls and trim. If you look at the rod where the knob screws onto the FJ60 choke pull it is hollow. Perhaps the threaded end can be cut off and the FJ55's knob and bit of it's rod can be cut off and inserted and attached some how. That way when installed the choke will look stock on the dash.
For now, keeping it simply and just affixing the FJ60 chock pull as is in the extra mount hole.
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- Thread starter
- #356
Accelerator pedal
Seems this 6/72 has an early cable linkage accelerator pedal without a barrel stop on the end of the cable (1968-9/72 40 & 55 Series). Given the threading in the firewall, definitely looking stock.
I think that pedal pad is 042-20A Gas Pedal Pad- AFTERMARKET-Fits 1963-1984 40, 45 & 55 Series. VW logo embossed on pad.
https://www.sor.com/cat042c.sor
Seems this 6/72 has an early cable linkage accelerator pedal without a barrel stop on the end of the cable (1968-9/72 40 & 55 Series). Given the threading in the firewall, definitely looking stock.
I think that pedal pad is 042-20A Gas Pedal Pad- AFTERMARKET-Fits 1963-1984 40, 45 & 55 Series. VW logo embossed on pad.
https://www.sor.com/cat042c.sor
- Thread starter
- #357
Returning to stock-ish between stock accelerator pedal and carb
The other end of the accelerator cable. I'm guessing this is stock and it got hacked to adapt to the Weber DGV 32/36 and the bracket I found on that carb. Housing is 19" and cable is 22" i.e. not seemingly stock lenghts of 25" and 31".
http://www.sor.com/catproducts.sor?from=042c&part.number=042-04&tabpage=TAB2
So, I do not have right accelerator pedal nor FJ55-ready mechanical linkage for the FJ60 carb and my stock accelerator cable has been hacked.
The FJ60 pedal and linkage could be made to work with a bunch of fabrication but now I'm thinking that the simplest solution may be to stay cable on the body and use a mechanical style adaptor on the FJ60 2F carb. Lokar S-1034 seems to be what is used for that:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...e-linkage-cable-set-ups-lets-see-em-2.html#23
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/S-1034/10002/-1?parentProductId=#moreDetails
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q4XCS6/?tag=ihco-20
Here's a pic of a bracket and Lokar S-1034 (I believe) on an aftermarket Trollhole carb:
Here's some pics of what I assume is a stock accelerator cable bracket:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/559599-carb-linkage-pics.html#6
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/499045-71-carb-question-idles-very-high-pics.html
I hear that switching mechanical to cable is easy. I hope that includes the stock accelerator pedal's travel range matches the throttle plate actuator on the carb.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/381011-throttle-cable-linkage-kit.html#5
Trollhole: "You can convert a linkage carb to a cable carb. It's not that hard. Uses the 70-73 fj40 throttle cable (31") a Lokar swivel cable end and a couple fabbed up brackets. Doing it this wayt you can use just about any stock carb for a 2f work. Including the FJ6o carbs. Though you will need a spacer for the FJ 60 carbs."
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/233695-mechanical-link-cable-conversion.html#8
Degnol: For converting carb linkage from mechanical to cable: "Marksoffroad.net has all the parts to do what you want to do. OEM parts. Jim Chenoweth(FJ40Jim@aol.com) has what you need also."
The other end of the accelerator cable. I'm guessing this is stock and it got hacked to adapt to the Weber DGV 32/36 and the bracket I found on that carb. Housing is 19" and cable is 22" i.e. not seemingly stock lenghts of 25" and 31".
http://www.sor.com/catproducts.sor?from=042c&part.number=042-04&tabpage=TAB2
So, I do not have right accelerator pedal nor FJ55-ready mechanical linkage for the FJ60 carb and my stock accelerator cable has been hacked.
The FJ60 pedal and linkage could be made to work with a bunch of fabrication but now I'm thinking that the simplest solution may be to stay cable on the body and use a mechanical style adaptor on the FJ60 2F carb. Lokar S-1034 seems to be what is used for that:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...e-linkage-cable-set-ups-lets-see-em-2.html#23
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/S-1034/10002/-1?parentProductId=#moreDetails
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q4XCS6/?tag=ihco-20
Here's a pic of a bracket and Lokar S-1034 (I believe) on an aftermarket Trollhole carb:
Here's some pics of what I assume is a stock accelerator cable bracket:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/559599-carb-linkage-pics.html#6
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/499045-71-carb-question-idles-very-high-pics.html
I hear that switching mechanical to cable is easy. I hope that includes the stock accelerator pedal's travel range matches the throttle plate actuator on the carb.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/381011-throttle-cable-linkage-kit.html#5
Trollhole: "You can convert a linkage carb to a cable carb. It's not that hard. Uses the 70-73 fj40 throttle cable (31") a Lokar swivel cable end and a couple fabbed up brackets. Doing it this wayt you can use just about any stock carb for a 2f work. Including the FJ6o carbs. Though you will need a spacer for the FJ 60 carbs."
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/233695-mechanical-link-cable-conversion.html#8
Degnol: For converting carb linkage from mechanical to cable: "Marksoffroad.net has all the parts to do what you want to do. OEM parts. Jim Chenoweth(FJ40Jim@aol.com) has what you need also."
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PabloCruise
SILVER Star
This is a really great thread with all your detail.
Let me know how you like that pedal. I put a 3FE pedal in my Pig, and it works, but my knee hurts after long drives. It is too high off the floor.
I need a better solution.
- Thread starter
- #359
FJ60 carburator insulator
It seems that for the FJ60 Toyota decided to add a heat shield under the carb [EDIT: maybe this happened as early as 1/75]. While doing that they made it part of the carb insulator and for good measure bonded its two gaskets to the insulator.
This is a frail part, or at least this one did not fare well during extraction. I cracked it twice and the bottom gasket tore. It is also expensive to replace.
The insulator assembly has gaskets so no others are needed:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/471698-heat-shield-riser-gaskets.html#6
Jim C. (via word of mouth) saying no gaskets needed "Put everything back together with NO gaskets or gunk (per Jim C)"
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8906379&postcount=32
Pin_head: "Yes, the carb base and the manifold have to seal at the insulator, so if you do not have the bonded gaskets, you either need to get a kit that has the gaskets or use some kind of sealer. You don't want to use any liquid sealer in the carb itself."
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/559892-how-many-carb-gaskets.html#2
Spike Strip: "The gaskets are bonded to the heat riser/shield. If yours (heat riser) is in good shape you don't need any other gaskets. The gaskets shown in the SOR pic are aftermarket ones for those who bugger the bonded gaskets."
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/589606-heat-shield-plate-hac-bvsv-part-s.html
beno: "Carb insulator: 21912-61035"
http://www.sor.com/cat042.sor
042-02H Carburetor Insulator -**Special Order NO Return Fits 8/80-8/87 $133
So, it looks like SOR has an aftermarket one where the gaskets are separate. They also seem to have changed the bottom gasket from 042-90B 2bbl Base Gasket to 042-91 2bbl Plenum Gasket which given how the one I have here has peeled away between the two barrels sounds like a good idea.
I am just going to scrap off the bottom gasket (wearing a mask), replace it with a new plenum gasket, and install this one cracked as is without any liquid sealants. Unless this is a bad idea...
P.S. this insulator is 22mm tall versus the 17.5mm for the F insulator I have ergo not really interchangeable.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...rivetrain-swap-84-fj60-drivetrain-15.html#287
It seems that for the FJ60 Toyota decided to add a heat shield under the carb [EDIT: maybe this happened as early as 1/75]. While doing that they made it part of the carb insulator and for good measure bonded its two gaskets to the insulator.
This is a frail part, or at least this one did not fare well during extraction. I cracked it twice and the bottom gasket tore. It is also expensive to replace.
The insulator assembly has gaskets so no others are needed:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/471698-heat-shield-riser-gaskets.html#6
Jim C. (via word of mouth) saying no gaskets needed "Put everything back together with NO gaskets or gunk (per Jim C)"
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8906379&postcount=32
Pin_head: "Yes, the carb base and the manifold have to seal at the insulator, so if you do not have the bonded gaskets, you either need to get a kit that has the gaskets or use some kind of sealer. You don't want to use any liquid sealer in the carb itself."
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/559892-how-many-carb-gaskets.html#2
Spike Strip: "The gaskets are bonded to the heat riser/shield. If yours (heat riser) is in good shape you don't need any other gaskets. The gaskets shown in the SOR pic are aftermarket ones for those who bugger the bonded gaskets."
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/589606-heat-shield-plate-hac-bvsv-part-s.html
beno: "Carb insulator: 21912-61035"
http://www.sor.com/cat042.sor
042-02H Carburetor Insulator -**Special Order NO Return Fits 8/80-8/87 $133
So, it looks like SOR has an aftermarket one where the gaskets are separate. They also seem to have changed the bottom gasket from 042-90B 2bbl Base Gasket to 042-91 2bbl Plenum Gasket which given how the one I have here has peeled away between the two barrels sounds like a good idea.
I am just going to scrap off the bottom gasket (wearing a mask), replace it with a new plenum gasket, and install this one cracked as is without any liquid sealants. Unless this is a bad idea...
P.S. this insulator is 22mm tall versus the 17.5mm for the F insulator I have ergo not really interchangeable.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...rivetrain-swap-84-fj60-drivetrain-15.html#287
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #360
This is a really great thread with all your detail.
Let me know how you like that pedal. I put a 3FE pedal in my Pig, and it works, but my knee hurts after long drives. It is too high off the floor.
Thanks.
Current plan is to stay stock on the accelerator pedal. I'll report back eventually...
