6/'72 FJ55: stock drivetrain swap to '84 FJ60 drivetrain (1 Viewer)

[threadchaser]

For the record before moving on, here is what I was concerned about: the 6/72 3-speed tranny & T/C versus the ?/84 4-speeds. Obviously, things got heavier during the change making me think a support under the T/C was required.

But that's not the issue, it seems. Searching the Web says the 2F engine and the 4-speed tranny & 4-speed T/C came to the FJ55 in sometime in 1974. Advanced Adaptors says July of 1974, see page 13:
http://www.advanceadapters.com/pdf/tlc_ebook.pdf

Off the back of the flywheel housing Toyota continued to simply hang the new 4-speed tranny and T/C i.e. same thing as with the F and 3 speeds. Things stayed that way until 1981 when the parking brake moved to the axle when Toyota introduced the split transfer case:
http://www.cruiserfaq.com/08-00.php

It was at that time that T/C support member was introduced, replacing the motor mounts on the flywheel housing. But by then the FJ55 was part of history.

 

[threadchaser]

A 2F running with some non-optimal noises

Yesterday after I got that very stock FJ60 running I recorded it running while I twisted the throttle. Ignoring the useless video, this 30 second audio recording sounds feral as my phone was right up next to the engine, I even rested it on the air cleaner housing at one point.



I have very little experience with running 2Fs. Some of the sounds seem like a valve lashing is in order, but there is also a heavier slapping sound. Any help identifying that would be appreciated.

 

[FJ40Jim]

The crossmember location doesn't change w/ short or long trans. The mount location on the bottom of the transmission case is in the same location. The additional length is added onto the back of the transmission, behind the crossmember mount.

 

[threadchaser]

Large cap 2F distributor governor springs play/slop

I am reassembling the distributor. Here is a 12 second video showing the play/slop in the governor springs after assembly. The longer of the two seems a bit sloppy but I cannot find any info saying that is bad.

 

[threadchaser]

Overhauled 2F large cap distributor, ready for another 100K+ miles hopefully.

Whaddaya know, something actually completed. This rathole has so many tunnels...

 

[threadchaser]

SOR's windshield wiper blades

SOR part #193-151
http://www.sor.com/cat193.sor?ARP=1

Which is simply ANCO 31-Series 15" a.k.a. 31-15
http://www.amazon.com/ANCO-Series-31-15-Wiper-Blade/dp/B0009IK5T4/

 

[threadchaser]

Pilot bearing

The pilot bearing in the SOR clutch kit did not have an SOR label but perhaps this is what SOR is calling 018-29A Pilot Bearing - Fits 1958-8/87 Gas Engines

Size 6202 bearings are ID=15mm, OD=35mm, depth=11mm:
http://www.bearingworks.com/bearing_sizes/index.php

This bearing from HCH is metal shielded on both sides; I think that's what the Z is trying to say. Sounds like Toyota ships 6202's with a metal shield on only one side or with a rubber seal on both sides ("2RS"), the latter being later vintage and better.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/425285-pilot-bearing-question.html

So this bearing from SOR is different from both of Toyota's, I guess.

 

[tucker74]

Um - Toyota shipped me a Nachi bearing with metal on both sides, 6202ZE C3 stamped into the side. That's what they sell currently, the throw out bearing is Koyo ... both made in Japan.

Tucker

 

[threadchaser]

Thanks for the data point, tucker74. I'm kinda interested in bsevan's experiment:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/112485-high-temperature-sealed-pilot-bearing.html

I, like most in that thread, have always replaced the pilot bearings when I was in the area. Although the bearings he's working with are more expensive at $43 (2006 US$), I like the attitude of "it shouldn't need to be replaced" which would mean less replacements and failures, theoretically. I think I'll try that next time.

 

[threadchaser]

Pilot bearing removal with bread

I learned about this technique here on MUD. Worked like a charm. Whole-grain gluten-free bread, natch.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/236970-pilot-bearing-removal-question.html

Bearing was shot before removal. Nachi 6202NK JAPAN. Almost identical to this one from Toyota:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7599095&postcount=2

P.S. Next pilot bearing removal I'll attempt Pin_head's carriage bolt and socket trick:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/54710-pilot-bearing-instal.html#6

 

[threadchaser]

NAPA (SKF) pilot bearing install

Today I learned that a seal driver made of plastic is not a pilot bearing driver, rather it is a pilot bearing destroyer. Went back to Plan A: a 27mm socket with a dead AA battery convinced to fill in as a guide pin.

I also learned that NAPA 6202 double sealed (not shielded) bearings are $24. (I guess that's tax for stupidity and impatience.)

On the outer ring is printed:
SKF SKF EXPLORER
6202-2RSH/C3GJN
ARGENTINA B M4J

The only markings (and in minuscule type) on the side seals are "950" on one side and "946" on the other.

Sounds like the sealed version of the shielded one:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/199324-skf-pilot-bearing-argentina.html

 

[threadchaser]

SOR's aftermarket rear main seal

The sticker say 90311 99065 which is the Toyota number but there are no Toyota logos on the bag. This is SOR's:
034-40A Aftermarket Rear Engine Seal - Fits 1958-1987 Gas Engines (manufactured in Japan)

It is less than half the price of the OEM seal; this is their aftermarket RMS. It has 3 lips compared to the 2 on the OEM, so I'm told.

Markings:
THO
MADE IN JAPAN
TTC 100 120 11
2

 

[threadchaser]

I don't know. These two look extremely similar. I don't see an extra lip on the blue. Blue is from SOR. Black came off the 2F, rather brittle. Who knows maybe it's not stock.

 

[threadchaser]

This rear main seal driver "SST" idea worked out well.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8821561&postcount=105

It's just a plate of steel and a 15mm wide PVC ring cut off an adapter for 4" Sewer Pipe x 3" DWV. Perfect diameter, about a millimeter in from the circumference of the seal.

Here's the PVC adaptor I got from ACE:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8818024&postcount=101

Worked well; very easy install using a tightening sequence just like for installing the flywheel, tighening each bolt a turn or so at a time.

If I were to do it again, I'd go for a thicker plate. It dished under load:

 

[FJ40Jim]

For future reference, most 2F have a "Installer, rear main seal" that comes on the engine. It's called a flywheel in the common vernacular.

To use, place seal in rear bore, put flywheel on lip of crank, start 3 FW bolts, then tighten down uniformly. Remove FW and tap rear seal home the final 1/16".

 

[threadchaser]

For future reference, most 2F have a "Installer, rear main seal" that comes on the engine. It's called a flywheel in the common vernacular.

To use, place seal in rear bore, put flywheel on lip of crank, start 3 FW bolts, then tighten down uniformly. Remove FW and tap rear seal home the final 1/16".

Good to know. Occam's Razor would choose that way.

Someone else likes to use the the output cone/cover of the transfer case:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/77591-rear-main-seal.html#11

 

[threadchaser]

2F oil cooler

Looks very clean inside the oil filter bracket where the banjo bolt goes. More promising evidence of a well cared for engine. Looking forward to a compression test. I'm not sure this bracket needs to be disassembled and cleaned out.

In the pic with the oil cooler removed, on the banjo bolts is blue tape for keeping things clean inside during disassembly. On one of the 2 bolts is an idiot light sender switch which will go to a blinking red LED on the dash. The stock sender will still be used to feed the stock dash gauge. On the other banjo bolt is the small pressure gauge (for under hood reality checks against the dash gauge) which was discussed starting around post #198:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...rivetrain-swap-84-fj60-drivetrain-10.html#198


A cooler with an OPSU in one of the coolers banjo bolts:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=754901&stc=1&d=1367616848

Good thread about the cooler.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/291793-1984-2f-oil-filter-bracket-w-oil-cooler.html

Fail point in this sub-system seems to be the lower hose.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/291793-1984-2f-oil-filter-bracket-w-oil-cooler.html#6
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/761583-76-2f-oil-cooler.html#10

This lower hose looks like it's ready for retirement. The end of the hose close to the cooler (right below the oil filter; so, softened by spilt oil over the years?) is distinctly softer than the rest of the same type coolant hoses within the area, including the other end of the same hose. Notice how one end flares from bloated, soften material. The hose is almost completely straight so I think I'll just replace it with some hose from the local auto parts store. I've never seen a clamp involving a cotter pin, as seen on the front end of the hose. Why not just the same clamp as on the rear end?

FSM diagram:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/578718-2f-oem-oil-cooler.html#post7493104

Cleaning:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=9049550&postcount=6

banjos torque to 47 ftlbs:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7493104&postcount=8

O-rings (need 2)
Toyota #90301-21176
SOR: 055-20A $4 O Ring Oilcoolr- Fits 1/76-8/92 (2REQ'D)
http://www.sor.com/catproducts.sor?from=055&part.number=055-20&tabpage=TAB1

Copper washers on banjos (need 2)
Toyota #90430-18012
SOR: 055-12A $2 Washer- Fits 1/76-8/92
http://www.sor.com/catproducts.sor?from=055&part.number=055-12&tabpage=TAB1

 

[threadchaser]

My biggest MUD browsing win in a while is another Jim C. gem:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=9049627&postcount=9

"Look up your own part numbers & prices here:
http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/s...385&ukey_driveLine=11198&ukey_trimLevel=24555"

 

[FJ40Jim]

I'm a gemologist!

The factory hoses have the semi-permanent wind-up clamps on one end, because that is how they are delivered to the engine assembly line. A hose subassembly for production consists of the metal pipe, with rubber hoses clamped (w/ wind-up clamps) to either end. Assembly worker bolts metal pipe to engine, slips each rubber hose onto its fitting and tightens up only one clamp at each end.

The wind up clamps can be replaced with a conventional screw clamp.

Yes, replace the lower oil cooler hose with a new section of 16mm (5/8") straight heater hose. The hose gets covered in oil because of oil filter changes and leaky fuel pumps.

The upper oil cooler hose can also be straight 5/8".
The tiny piece of hose from pipe to lower WP nipple should be replaced while you have easy access. It is a mlolded hose and should be replaced w/ the toyota part.
The upper most z-bend hose from pipe to T-stat housing should be inspected and replaced with Toyota molded hose if needed.

 

[threadchaser]

SOR's aftermarket oil filter for 2F

SOR's 026-01B:
http://www.sor.com/cat026.sor?ARP=1