6/'72 FJ55: stock drivetrain swap to '84 FJ60 drivetrain (1 Viewer)

[threadchaser]

Engine mounted oil pressure gauge

Here is a small oil pressure gauge that will go on the engine. The 2F's oil pressure cooler banjo bolts at one time came stock with the oil pressure sender unit mounted on the bolt head. So, this is essentially taking out the sender and plugging in a small gauge instead. This 2F's OPSU came stock on the oil filter bracket; that sender will stay and continue to send to the dash. OPSU's were covered back starting at post #186:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...rivetrain-swap-84-fj60-drivetrain-10.html#186

I got some help from Jim C. on this solution. The topic started around post #196:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...rivetrain-swap-84-fj60-drivetrain-10.html#198

The gauge is McMaster Carr part number 9804T51:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#9804T51

Metric Gauges with BSPT Threads 1/8"-28, bottom connection, 0-60psi, dial size 1 9/16".

Jim C. originally referenced the 1-100psi. I hope I will not come to regret going for 0-60psi gauge instead.

In the pictures, the gauge is just finger tightened on the bolt. Thread sealant will be used during actual install.

 

[PabloCruise]

Looks slick! I bet the 60 psi gauge will be adequate.

What type of thread sealant will you use? Is teflon tape reasonable?

 

[threadchaser]

What type of thread sealant will you use? Is teflon tape reasonable?

I came to this project with zero previous experience with sealing hot oil in pipe threads so...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmzsWxPLIOo

But some browsing around the Web brought up multiple people worrying about teflon tape shreds getting into oil passages, while others said no problem. But no one was against thread sealant. I had neither on hand so purchased some thread sealant.

Here's the Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant data sheet:
http://www.permatex.com/documents/TDS/automotive/59214.pdf

For the electrical OPSU, I was wondering about electrical grounding through the sealant but I have been told that's not a concern as the areas where the threads make contact will create a good enough ground as the sealant is pushed out of the way. The sealant is there to block fluid seepage where there is not tight metal on metal contact in a regular NPT taper context.

http://www.cutting-tool-supply.com/TechTips/Tapping/NPTvsNPTF/NPTVsNPTF.htm

Again, this is all academic learning; I am not speaking from years of hands on experience.

 

[FJ40Jim]

The electric sender does not need thread sealant. It is brass (soft) metal into iron or steel. The brass will distort enough to make the seal, oil will insure it doesn't seize, and metal on metal will maintain electrical conductivity.

 

[threadchaser]

I have gotten too used to quality info on MUD and forgot that the average Web site peanut gallery has serious signal to noise ratio issues.

Corrections like that are exactly why I write up these super-wordy, detailed descriptions of what I am up to as I stumbling about with things I have insufficient experience with. Thanks, Jim C., for the feedback.

 

[threadchaser]

Fuel return line fitting

Not sure how helpful this will be to anyone in the future as this fuel tank seems to have been custom built but the tank's currently square plugged port in the upper right front corner does indeed seem to be threaded 1/4" NPT female.

Pictured is the old square plug and the hose fitting which will replace it. The threads seem to match up perfectly. Post #259 was where this part of the story left off:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...rivetrain-swap-84-fj60-drivetrain-13.html#259

Off to read up about fuel hoses, hose barb types, and clamps. Seems the yellow collar indicates "push on" or "push lock" type barbs which are supposed to NOT have clamps on them as such will only reduce the quality of the seal...

So, I guess the yellow collar serves two purposes: 1. during assembly, it indicates how far the hose has to go on the barb; 2. during later inspection, it indicates that the lack of a hose clamp is not a problem.

 

[FJ40Jim]

2.a. The hose should be pushed all the way up inside the yellow collar. If upon later inspection the end of the hose is visible it provides an obvious indicator that the hose is trying to come off the barb.

But, doesn't the pushlock hose barb require a specific pushlock compatible hose? Or is any 5/16" 30R7 fuel hose acceptable? I've only used those connections on hydraulic stuff w/ heavywall hydro return hose. Never tried w/ gasoline.

 

[threadchaser]

...But, doesn't the pushlock hose barb require a specific pushlock compatible hose? Or is any 5/16" 30R7 fuel hose acceptable? I've only used those connections on hydraulic stuff w/ heavywall hydro return hose. Never tried w/ gasoline.

Exactly, Jim C. This has turned into a rathole but fuel containments seems like a topic worth over thinking.

I am coming to the conclusion that mixing "generic" 30R7 fuel hose with push lock type fittings and using a clamp is very much off the rez so proceed with caution, or perhaps just don't proceed.

For safety purposes, I will only be using push lock hose with push lock fittings and no clamps. For generic 30R7 fuel line (i.e. hose not explicitly labeled as push lock type hose) I will use single barb beaded end hose fittings with a clamp.

The following is an interesting, if not authoritative, explanation of how things can go wrong by mixing hoses, fittings, and clamps that are not supposed to be combined.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/pors...728-barbed-hose-fittings-dont-use-clamps.html

Here's the best one stop overview I found for an explanation of automotive fluid connection types:
http://radiumauto.com/media/techarticle-page.php?Automotive-Fluid-Connections-Explained-86

The above linked page states:
"When fittings are used with the correct hose, hose clamps are not necessary. When using the fitting with a non-Push-Lok rated hose, it is suggested to use a clamp. This combination would only be appropriate for low-pressure applications and one must be careful to ensure the Push-Lok fitting does not damage the hose when a clamp is used. The barbs have the potential to slice through the walls of non-Push Lok hose."

So, I guess I could get away with what I have but I am going to swap to a beaded end single barb fitting.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Those were a couple good articles. Always good to learn something.

 

[threadchaser]

Hose coupling type comparison

On the left is a push lock type hose coupling which is designed to NOT have a hose clamp; on the right is a beaded stem coupling which is design to work with a clamp.

Given that a hose clamp is not supposed to be situated on a hose overlapping where a coupling's bead (or barb) is, I can see where putting a clamp on a multi-barb push lock type coupling kind of invites failure.

Also, this side-by-side shows how the "barb" on a single bead stem is less aggressive in terms of how it "bites" into the inside of a hose, because it is designed to work with a clamp.

Disclaimer: I was clueless to these issues 24 hours ago so I could still be very wrong.

 

[threadchaser]

Just to beat this dead hose one more time: I am obviously super ignorant when it comes to the wide and deep world of fastening hoses. There are multi-barb hose nipples that seemingly expect to be clamped, etc.

The take away from these last few posts is that you just ask at the parts counter for some fuel line, a hose coupler, and a clamp resulting in some black hose, a coupler with a plastic collar on it, and a worm clamp then you might be well advised to dig a little deeper into the matter. Bring lots of coffee; it could take a while.

Personally, I'm moving on to how to clean out the inside of a fuel tank that sat with gas in it for many years...

 

[FJ40Jim]

This picture is from China, so I'm sure it is safe & well-engineered.

 

[Delancy]

I'm sure it is safe & well-engineered.

Hey, it's Asian, so betting you're right.

 

[threadchaser]

FJ55 gas cap

Truck came with this gas cap. Top is labeled with a "NRC" logo plus "90950 01070-A" and "B11" while the gasket is label "2-11"

[STRIKE]Doesn't look stock[/STRIKE] [EDIT: turns out this is a stock gas cap] [EDIT: that is it is a Toyota cap, not clear yet if it is what came stock on the 6/72 FJ55], gasket is shot, one-way valve is shot, and looks like someone drilled for venting purposes which probably is not a good sign for when I get to the evaporative emissions controls.

CCOT's gas caps:
http://coolfj40.stores.yahoo.net/gascapoem.html

SOR's gas caps:
http://www.sor.com/catproducts.sor?from=168&part.number=168-01&tabpage=TAB5

Some aftermarket gas cap part numbers for Land Cruisers:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/73633-gas-cap-fits.html

 

[Pighead]

I got a new gascap from C. Dan just a couple years ago..

 

[threadchaser]

Good idea; I'll go ask.

 

[FJ40Jim]

It's a Toyota gascap. Why does it not look stock?

 

[threadchaser]

Oh, yeah, that's stock? Good to know; thanks for the correction. Guess I got used to finding little "トヨタ" logos stamped onto everything that is stock. That and what I have didn't match the pictures of the Toyota parts on the CCOT page. I'll edit that post to prevent future confusion.

 

[FJ40Jim]

What I meant is: that is a Toyota gascap. But I don't know if it is stock for a FJ55.
Do you know if it is stock for the 72 FJ55?
72 is a weird year for fuel evap components, so maybe that oddly valved cap is correct for that year.

 

[threadchaser]

3/75 FJ40 gas cap

I have traveled away from the 6/72 FJ55 that is the topic of this thread. I'll be back at that truck in two weeks.

I have traveled to where my other two 1970's Land Cruiser are. So, while gas caps are a current topic, here is what I found today on my 3/75 FJ40. No idea if that is stock. Cap is simply labeled "Not vented".

Paint is gray primer sprayed without any masking by a PO. It didn't even phase him that the glass windows were half covered in paint. Then there's a few months of Pacific Northwest wetness setting in as black.