5vzfe swap running a bit warm (1 Viewer)

[jamg]

1991 4runner with a 5vzfe swapped motor from a T100
Blue fan clutch has had the temperature calibrated to 120F and has 30k cst silicon oil
Radiator is an CSF copper but is quite old at this point
Fan shroud is incomplete missing the lower half, in swapping the motor the body was lifted and this places the radiator fan lower
Thermostat changed to toyota corolla 170.
Coolant is Toyota Red 50/50, roughly 2 years old, might not be a bad idea to increase the amount of DI.

Just cruising around town I'm seeing 192-197, which isn't horrible given the AC is running, the 4runner is black AND Arizona summer. I'm noticing the temperature climbing to 206ish when climbing an incline which is a little more concerning, but my main concern is sitting at idle I see the water temperature creep upwards of 210+.

At this point all that I can think of is that the radiator is tired and could use a flush or replacement, and/or I should adjust the amount of DI in the coolant. Anyone have any other suggestions?

 

[aztoyman]

All I have in my truck is the OEM dash gauge and it sits right in the middle. I don't know what that temp is though. Saying that, my truck never ran hot or boiled over and I'm using the same radiator I had with the 22RE. It's a 3 row brass unit. I have a good shroud and a 3.0 fan. I used the stock 3.4 fan clutch. My donor was a 99 4Runner with manual trans.

I did have my radiator rodded out before my swap. I don't know if anybody does that anymore. It was a place on Prince road at the time. Just east of Oracle Rd. Performance Radiator.
A flush will not clean out plugged tubes.

A proper fan shroud should help but might not be your only problem if it's been that way for a while and you're just now having it get hot.

 

[gnob]

if the fan is working like it should, id suss the radiator.

 

[aztoyman]

I don't know what DI in the coolant is. A higher concentration of water cools better at the loss of freeze resistance. Not an issue here.

I actually run the usual green coolant because the red specs listed that it did not protect brass. My radiator, heater core and T-stat are brass. People warned me of horrible things for not running the Toyota red and I've been running the green since my swap. About 10 years now.

 

[jamg]

It hasn't just gotten hot, I replaced the fan clutch 1.5 years prior thinking it might have been the culprit, so it's been getting somewhat hot for a while now. It's just not a vehicle we utilize that often, so I've back burnered it for a while.

oh forgot to add. there's also two bottles of water wetter mixed with the coolant, and I did a thermocure flush roughly two years ago.

I think at this point, I can just call it a day and order a new radiator, or perhaps flush this one or call performance radiator and see if they still rod or boil.

What's the new hotness in radiators, I see CSF is still around, but amazon even has some full alumnium radiators, but the reviews seem sparce, and I haven't found much here on them. On the high end it looks like holley has a frostbite aluminum radiator as well.

 

[aztoyman]

IDK what a good radiator is anymore. I'd be checking reviews I guess. I've only run copper/brass for most of mine for quite a while. My newest trucks are an 08 FJC and 2012 Ram and both have the original aluminum/plastic radiators.

I think I'd just find a new one unless there's still a shop that could rod it out. Not sure they're out there anymore though.

Good luck with it and please follow up with how it all goes.

 

[jamg]

So it looks like there's a TYC avail for this body style at roughly 140, on the other end of the spectrum holley has a frostbite alumnium for roughly 400. TYC seems to be very highly thought of, but those plastic end tanks....

 

[aztoyman]

There's a CSF 2057 3 row high efficiency all metal copper/brass for $276 at Rock Auto. $320 on Amazon.

 

[aztoyman]

Champion CC50 is about $300 ( on sale from Champion for $244) and is fully welded 3 row aluminum. I put two Champion radiators in both my daughter's 66 Mustangs when they were in high school. They are 35 and 39 years old now and same radiators in the cars still.

 

[liveoak]

you may have found this already but has some good info.

5VZFE Normal Operating Temp

My recently purchased 2002 V6 is consistently running (once warmed up) between 196F-206F depending on how I’m pushing the engine. I’m wondering if...

www.tacomaworld.com

 

[jamg]

you may have found this already but has some good info.

5VZFE Normal Operating Temp

My recently purchased 2002 V6 is consistently running (once warmed up) between 196F-206F depending on how I’m pushing the engine. I’m wondering if...

www.tacomaworld.com

Yep, I've seen that post. The thermostat jiggler is definitely at 6 o'clock

 

[clx16]

My taco I had with all new cooling was 204 no matter what. And my rad was aluminum. My 80 series likes to be at 186. Maybe my taco ran too hot.

 

[jamg]

Drove through socal last week so picked up a champion on the trip.

Trying to decide on just drain and fill with radiator replacement, or lump everything together and do a timing belt as well. Mileage we don't drive this vehicle a whole lot so we're nowhere near the mileage recommendation. Timewise though, it's been a while.

 

[clx16]

Drove through socal last week so picked up a champion on the trip.

Trying to decide on just drain and fill with radiator replacement, or lump everything together and do a timing belt as well.

I recommend all at once. It is easier to do pump and timing without that stuff in your way and you really don't want to drain more than once.

 

[jamg]

Took a look at the timing belt when I have the radiator out and it looks pretty much brand new, no cracking that I can see. So I'm going to defer this for the timing being.

Flushed twice with the old radiator in, then swapped the new champion in. I was surprised on how heavy the old radiator is compared to the champion, some of that is definitely because of the brass construction, but I wouldn't be surprised if there's quite a bit of sediment in there. The champion is also significantly thicker than the CSF.

The fan shroud, what's left of it, was hitting a bit so I just removed it for now. Flushing the new radiator with distilled water for a few miles and I'll drain that as well. After 3 flushes I should have basically all of the old toyota red out. At that point I'm going to fill with 1 gallon of toyota red, and then fill the remaining space with distilled, this should put me just under the 50/50 mark.

Thus far with just distilled water in it is slower to get up to 170. After driving it around the block a few times it settles into 185-190. If I let it sit at idle it'll go up to 206, but appears to stall there and will drop to 204 at times. This is already an improvement as with the other radiator it would climb pretty consistently at idle. Arizona is still HOT and I'm driving around with the AC on.

Ran out of time to keep testing, but over the next few days I'll push it and see what temps I can get.

 

[bkg]

IMHO, you need a decent fan shroud.

 

[jamg]

IMHO, you need a decent fan shroud.

I don't disagree, but after the swap and the body lift the bottom half of the shroud would impact the fan. Because of that the lower half the shroud had to be cut. So I'm left with the top portion and some small parts of the side. With this new Champion radiator being wider I'm going to have to trim even more off the sides, so I'll pretty much be left only with the top portion. Still better than nothing, and I'll get to hacking in a bit.

After charging the AC a bit the engine actually seems to be working less, temperatures have settled and I'm seeing mostly 185 and maybe some 190s, rarely in the 200's.

Near my home there's a long hill that I've been testing on and before the new radiator I was seeing 205 and climbing, now I can complete the climb and I top out below 195.

I'll be draining the distilled water out probably later today and putting in the coolant and distilled water mix.

 

[bkg]

I don't disagree, but after the swap and the body lift the bottom half of the shroud would impact the fan. Because of that the lower half the shroud had to be cut. So I'm left with the top portion and some small parts of the side. With this new Champion radiator being wider I'm going to have to trim even more off the sides, so I'll pretty much be left only with the top portion. Still better than nothing, and I'll get to hacking in a bit.

After charging the AC a bit the engine actually seems to be working less, temperatures have settled and I'm seeing mostly 185 and maybe some 190s, rarely in the 200's.

Near my home there's a long hill that I've been testing on and before the new radiator I was seeing 205 and climbing, now I can complete the climb and I top out below 195.

I'll be draining the distilled water out probably later today and putting in the coolant and distilled water mix.

Problem is, until you fix the fan shroud, you’re going to be battling basic airflow issues that are key to keeping it cool. Glad that the flush is helping (and it is a smart thing to do), but the air flow is a core component…..

 

[aztoyman]

Yeah, I get the misaligned shroud problem. I didn't do a body lift but I did change the height of my engine. I had to fabricate a custom shroud.

I'm glad it's cooling better with the new rad.

 

[jamg]

Yeah, I get the misaligned shroud problem. I didn't do a body lift but I did change the height of my engine. I had to fabricate a custom shroud.

I'm glad it's cooling better with the new rad.

Any details on how you fabricated the custom shroud?