538571 Lexus Cruiser

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Joined
May 14, 2023
Threads
10
Messages
37
Location
Bowie, Maryland
Family has gotten a bit too big to fit in our '96 ZJ, so I picked up a 2004 LX 470. Traveled halfway across the country to find one in Nebraska that had avoided the East Coast salt. Overall it's in great condition for a 20 year old vehicle. Just two owners I think, and has stealership service records for the first part of its life. AHC is functional and recently serviced I think, and timing belt is in good condition. Replacement of the belt is high on the list of things to do anyway, just to be safe.

Good timing, since shortly after the transmission on the ZJ exploded. Still made it the few hundred miles back home though, so I can't complain too much.

Anyway, here it is when I bought it. I have plenty of bad ideas in mind, but will be starting with getting it in a factory-like state I'm happy with and can use as a baseline. Things are going to start out slow, but hopefully will become more interesting soon enough.

PXL_20230525_184943726.jpg




First order of business was to get some audio besides radio/cassette/CD. I have seen some modifications of the cassette player to accept input from an external source, but those methods have had some flaws. First, the audio chip from the cassette is always left connected, which introduces noise into the line, even if no cassette is inserted or playing. Second, these methods rely on the cassette player mechanism still operating, which draws power unnecessarily (a very small amount), and which has an unnecessarily high failure rate.

By completely disconnecting the audio chip and emulating the necessary inputs required for the controller to accept input from the cassette connection, these problems can be eliminated. The two inputs that need to be emulated are the reel rotation and tape position sensors (ES and POS lines). A 1 Hz 50% duty cycle grounding of the lines in question works for this, and I just used a 555 timer to generate it. Once the signal is active, grounding the tape load sensor line tells the controller to start playing from the cassette player.

This interaction with the load line doesn't need to be repeated after you've switched inputs, but under rare conditions that I haven't been able to identify yet, the controller will forget it has been told that a tape is loaded. This has only happened twice in several months, and during that time I did a bit of other electrical work. I have plans to tie one of the cassette-specific buttons to the load line so that this reset can be done easily, but want to try and identify the cause of the issue first. It might be as simple as the battery dying/being disconnected for long enough.

Here is the current setup using common standard components. I will put it onto a circuit board and use more specific components when I get around to it, but this has been working great in the meantime.

PXL_20240516_151659527.jpg


And here is a circuit diagram:

1hz (1).png


For this input, I soldered a 3.5 mm TRS cable to the head unit's inputs from the cassette player. In a later project, I want to do something similar with the CD/DVD player, but use it for Bluetooth instead. I think this will be a bit more straightforward than the cassette player, since it shouldn't have the same emulation issues.



I noticed that the grounding cables in the engine bay didn't have very good connections and were pretty corroded. There were also penetrations to the wheel well area with a welded nut on the wheel side. The grounding bolts and a few of the wheel well penetrations are M6x1 threading, and I had some appropriate fasteners lying around that worked well for the application. Anti-seize on threads, dielectric grease on the electrical connections, and some rubber-backed washers for the empty holes.

I'll be doing a lot more work on the electrical system, and there are some more penetrations I want to seal up for corrosion prevention in the near future.

PXL_20241019_202230023.jpg




I went ahead and replaced the cabin air filters with Fram CF11923. I've heard that a lot of these vehicles just don't have filters installed, but thankfully mine did and the inside of the housing was fairly clean. The Fram filters seem to be quite good, but they're expensive and Fram has been going downhill lately. I'll probably use the frames of the Frams to DIY the replacements. Probably foam prefilter, followed by granular activated carbon, then MERV 13+ particle filter media. It would be designed to allow easy washing of the prefilter and replacement of the GAC.
 
Welcome!

Former 96 ZJ 4.0 NP242 owner here. Current 07 LX owner.

These are truly great rigs even in stock form. Where in Nebraska did you find this one?
 
Welcome!

Former 96 ZJ 4.0 NP242 owner here. Current 07 LX owner.

These are truly great rigs even in stock form. Where in Nebraska did you find this one?

The ZJ is so much fun. Mine is rusted to hell and has been through a lot, but I'm still holding onto it since it's free from being the family carrier and I can do some more interesting mods now... And I JUST put new tires on it that are worth more than the vehicle itself lol, plus exhaust manifold replacement, headlight upgrade, fuel system overhaul...

I picked the LX up over in Scottsbluff. Worked out pretty well since I was able to tie the trip in with helping some family move to Pueblo, CO.




Next up for the LX was the engine air filter. I used a Hengst E1242L. It is a very well-built filter with a pretty much perfect fit. It has a pre-filter screen which I assume is for snow, although I don't expect snow to be too much of an issue with how the intake of this vehicle is positioned. Much greater media surface area.

One minor concern is that a fiber I removed from the Hengst has a much larger diameter than the fibers of the old filter. Typically, smaller fibers are going to result in better filtration of smaller particles, although there's more to it than just fiber size. It's also possible that multiple sizes are used to provide depth filtration, but I wasn't about to tear apart the new filter to find out. I did email Hengst to see if they could provide any information about filtration particle size and efficiency. I had pictures of the fibers under a microscope, but lost them unfortunately.

I removed the filter housing to clean and inspect everything, and tested the MAF sensor. Everything looks good. I know there are cleaners specifically for MAF sensors, but I just used isopropyl alcohol. Anti-seize on threads, dielectric grease on electrical connections, and a very light layer of silicone grease with PTFE on the air filter seal and MAF sensor gasket

New on the left, old on the right.

PXL_20240926_201336407.jpg

PXL_20240926_201350578.jpg




Also, for totally normal reasons, and definitely not because of something stupid I did, I had to remove the lower engine oil pan. Already was planning on replacing the front axles, so at least it wasn't that much extra work. I went the route of removing the differential to access the oil pan. Removing the pan was a pain, but I think in the future lightly hammering a razor blade or similar starting next to one of the bolt holes would work best. The areas in between the holes have a recess before they reach the mating surface height, allowing the blade to get misaligned more easily.

It wasn't all a waste though, since there was a bit of buildup I was able to clear out, including a small amount of blockage in the oil pickup screen. I used Liqui Moly Pro-Line engine flush in a spray bottle to clean the crankcase up a bit, followed by brake parts cleaner. Here's a before picture. Not much to see in the after, just less junk.

PXL_20241010_170524231.jpg


I used Mopar RTV for the gasket since it performed by far the best in a Project Farm test of RTVs. I often see people applying RTV in a ring around bolt holes, and I wonder if this is a cause of leaks. If a seal is formed by the RTV around a blind bolt hole, and if the bolt head seals somewhat with the pan, then when tightening, you will have trapped air that become compressed and can only escape by pushing through the RTV. If an escape of air happens close to the end of torqueing, I could see that compromising the final seal.

Oh, and one thing I should have mentioned earlier: for most exterior bolt holes and nuts I use an old bolt with three axial grooves cut in the threads to clean out debris and corrosion. After 20 years, a good bit has usually built up and it can impact proper torqueing and lead to further corrosion.

All the oil pan bolts came out with no trouble thankfully, and a small amount of anti-seize was applied before reinstalling. Careful about too much, since most of these are blind holes. I got a new seal for the drain bolt, but will be saving it for the next oil change since this one is going to be a very short interval.

PXL_20241019_221043816.jpg


I tried my best to keep everything clean, but I'm still going to replace the oil early. I'm refilling with 5 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum and topping off with some leftover Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic. After a few hundred miles or so, I'll add the small amount of engine flush remaining, drive a bit more, then drain and refill with Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage.

Regarding oil filters... Why is the stock filter so tiny? Around 3.5" when you can fit at least 5". All else equal, a filter with greater media surface area will result in better filtration efficiency, higher flow rates, and less bypassing. They are typically the same price too, so I don't see why you wouldn't use something larger.

In my case, I am going with a Fram XG3600 for the short interval oil change, then will replace it with a Carquest Premium 85516. Any of these should fit equally well: Oil filter cross reference - https://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/CARQUEST/85516

The reason for the Fram going first is that apparently they are terrible now. I'm only using it even temporarily for further testing purposes. You can see what I've done so far here: Summary of non-destructive Fram filter testing (and a Carquest Premium added) - https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/summary-of-non-destructive-fram-filter-testing-and-a-carquest-premium-added.388499/

Carquest Premium is my go-to for now, until I find something better. That something better is probably going to be a Fleetguard StrataPore/NanoNet filter, but they aren't available in a format that will fit this engine directly. I'm hoping to find one that I can make work just by adding a bushing to accommodate the larger thread size on the relevant Fleetguards.

I can't trash the Frams too much though, because look at what was on the vehicle when I bought it. Mighty Engine Guard M3614. The bypass is accomplished with the same bit of nitrile that forms the ADBV, which hardens over time and loses functionality. The media is claimed to be synthetic, but it looks, feels, burns, and tastes a whole lot like cellulose to me.

PXL_20241018_192953569.jpg


The old oil had a strong fuel smell to it. I sent a sample in for analysis. Don't have any info about what type of oil it was or how long it was in, but the results should be interesting regardless.
 
Nice ride.
I would go with an OEM filter. They are 4" (I was bored and measured one) and they are rather inexpensive. Through Lexus Parts you can have one delivered to your front door for $4.39, and that's a high price. You can get them for around $3 when they have their big sales.
Also, are you putting dielectric grease directly on the electrical connection? From what I understood, that is not a good thing, it will kill the connection. Die Electric, just like the name says. Let me know if you think otherwise...
IMG20241019203136.jpg
 
Nice ride.
I would go with an OEM filter. They are 4" (I was bored and measured one) and they are rather inexpensive. Through Lexus Parts you can have one delivered to your front door for $4.39, and that's a high price. You can get them for around $3 when they have their big sales.
Also, are you putting dielectric grease directly on the electrical connection? From what I understood, that is not a good thing, it will kill the connection. Die Electric, just like the name says. Let me know if you think otherwise...

One of my main concerns with Toyota filters is their particle capture efficiency. Check out this video:


The one tested does have very low flow restriction and high capacity, but I do relatively frequent oil changed so my preference leans toward filtration efficiency. My interpretation of these results is that the Toyota filter was leaking internally between the inner barrel and the bypass valve body, but that's not terribly confidence inspiring either (bypass related leaking is my main concern with the Frams too).

I'd love to see more testing and cutting open of the Toyotas (maybe a project next time you are bored lol), but OEMs are very often overlooked unfortunately. Here is one I did find, and it seems to be just about identical to the one from the Brand Ranks video: Toyota 90915-YZZD3 Cut Open - https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/toyota-90915-yzzd3-cut-open.362845/



Regarding the grease, this is always a contentious topic haha. I've heard both sides, but my personal practice is this:

1. Don't use on low contact pressure connectors or dynamic contacts (relays, switches, etc.)
2. For high contact pressure connectors (clamping style, quick disconnects, typical plastic body automotive connectors, etc.) coat the metal contacts. The goal is to seal them off from oxygen, humidity, liquids, and other contamination. The contact force should be enough to displace any grease where conduction would be happening anyway.
3. With the typical plastic body automotive connector, I also put a bit on the tight fitting plastic surfaces to help with future disconnecting, and if there is a rubber seal I give it a light coating as well to help prevent damage or distortion when (dis)connecting, and to help it seal a bit better.

I have tested metal-free anti-seize on threaded fasteners and dielectric grease on clamped contacts, but my poor Fluke 115 only has resolution of 0.1 Ω. I didn't find any differences at that scale.

I've planned for a while to make a milliohm meter to test some more. There are several existing tests that have been done, like this one:
But I'd like to look more into things like the relationship between contact pressure and resistance with grease.
 
Someone here in Mud did test different filters (or posted a comparo done by someone), can’t find the thread..
But it appears that the oem filter media is larger in area than others, maybe not the only factor making it a better filter. But since it’s very cheap, very available, never heard of issues with it and in my opinion the best feature is that it has the pre oiled plastic seal, that’s the filter I’m using for the rest of my Toyota ownership. Not that anyone else cares, right?

Regarding electrical connections, been reading too much lately and ordered this:


And the one in a spray clean as well.
Need to clean my wet fuse box and get rid of some gremlins..
 
Welcome to the 100 series.

I feel you missed an opportunity, pulling the oil pan. In that, one of the only reason I've seen it pulled (both) oil pans. Is to remove the oil pump. Few are removed to replace oil pump, because of damaged done while servicing to the casting of oil pump. The number one reason has been, to replace the O-ring at top of oil pump. IMHO, most of these O-rings harden an are fail due to:
1) Use of HIGH MILEAGE oil. (Which have a petroleum based seal modifier.)
2) Improper oil service. Cheap oil and going too long between changes. This results in heavy slug build-up internally coating rubber seals. These seals, then dry out, shrink and harden.
3) Prolonged, extreme heat and or extreme cold, takes it toll also. But less of a concern than 1 & 2.

To clean engine internally. I use the same as my local Toyota Dealerships. BG's EPR (2 cans) engine flush. Warning on the can, "do not use on a heavily gunked-up engine". Or it will free to much gunk to fast for engine filtration. Using a good Synthetic oil for 1 or 2 oil changes (3K to 5K mile intervals), will help clean engine, helping to prepare for EPR engine flush. Then follow-up with the EPR.

The oil filter video above, is interesting and surprising. As noted in the comments, it may have been a bootleg filter that was used. Regardless, we have very good reason to believe the Toyota oil filter, does it's job as good as needed.

Reason being. The Million Mile 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT, was maintain by one Toyota Dealership. All the Toyota and Lexus Dealership, that I know of. Only carry and use Toyota oil & air filters. The million mile 4.7L was completely torn down and inspected by Toyota engineer's. They said, there was no reason to think, its engine wouldn't go another million miles as is. So I'd say Toyota oil filters are top shelf, in protecting our engines.
 
Welcome to the 100 series.

I feel you missed an opportunity, pulling the oil pan. In that, one of the only reason I've seen it pulled (both) oil pans. Is to remove the oil pump. Few are removed to replace oil pump, because of damaged done while servicing to the casting of oil pump. The number one reason has been, to replace the O-ring at top of oil pump. IMHO, most of these O-rings harden an are fail due to:
1) Use of HIGH MILEAGE oil. (Which have a petroleum based seal modifier.)
2) Improper oil service. Cheap oil and going too long between changes. This results in heavy slug build-up internally coating rubber seals. These seals, then dry out, shrink and harden.
3) Prolonged, extreme heat and or extreme cold, takes it toll also. But less of a concern than 1 & 2.

To clean engine internally. I use the same as my local Toyota Dealerships. BG's EPR (2 cans) engine flush. Warning on the can, "do not use on a heavily gunked-up engine". Or it will free to much gunk to fast for engine filtration. Using a good Synthetic oil for 1 or 2 oil changes (3K to 5K mile intervals), will help clean engine, helping to prepare for EPR engine flush. Then follow-up with the EPR.

The oil filter video above, is interesting and surprising. As noted in the comments, it may have been a bootleg filter that was used. Regardless, we have very good reason to believe the Toyota oil filter, does it's job as good as needed.

Reason being. The Million Mile 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT, was maintain by one Toyota Dealership. All the Toyota and Lexus Dealership, that I know of. Only carry and use Toyota oil & air filters. The million mile 4.7L was completely torn down and inspected by Toyota engineer's. They said, there was no reason to think, its engine wouldn't go another million miles as is. So I'd say Toyota oil filters are top shelf, in protecting our engines.
Which oil do you recommend using? Should I not use a high mileage?
I currently use Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage and change at 5k or 6 months. Thanks
 
I use Mobil One 5W-30. Either the regular 10K or the 20K (Annually protect/Extended performance). Either, max 1 year interval.
Toyota oil filter with ~5K mile interval.
Mobil One oil filter (over 7K) with 20K mile interval.

I never use any HIGH MILEAGE oils. They should read, stop leak.

For oil leaks:
From engine, I use AT-205, after EPR flush (clean seal). If leak concern at O-rings or cam/crank seals, until I service the seals.
Head cover gasket leaks. I re-torque head covers to 53INCH-lbf.
Power Steering (PS) pinion input seal AT-205. Rack output seals (in TRE boots) I replace rack & pinion.
Hoses, and or Vane pump leaks. Replace.

I use Mobil One MV ATF in Automatic Transmission (AT) 98-02 and PS.
Mobil (not Mobil One) MV Full syn ATF, in 03-up AT. Or Toy IV in 03 and WS 04-up AT.
Mobil One 75W-90 gear lube and grease.

Don't overlook:
Heeter Tee's. Many threads in mud.

See my Master thread (signature line), for more helpful links.
 
Welcome to the forums. Jeep guys are almost always skilled mechanics, I guess out of necessity! :rofl:
I'd love to learn more about the radio mods you did. A dead-simple 3.5mm aux input jack is all I've ever wanted.
 
I feel you missed an opportunity, pulling the oil pan. In that, one of the only reason I've seen it pulled (both) oil pans. Is to remove the oil pump.

I agree! I was a bit pressed for time when doing that one, so unfortunately the upper pan is going to have to wait. Do you know if the upper and lower can be removed as a unit? I lost some of my pictures and can't tell from the ones I have if the oil baffle is secured to the engine or to the upper pan.

Welcome to the forums. Jeep guys are almost always skilled mechanics, I guess out of necessity! :rofl:
I'd love to learn more about the radio mods you did. A dead-simple 3.5mm aux input jack is all I've ever wanted.

Here is someone's video that gets it to a functional state at least:
My main differences with his method:
  • I soldered my 3.5 mm cable directly to the main control board instead of to the cassette player since I had no plans to keep the cassette player.
  • I replaced the entire cassette player mechanism with that little circuit in my first post to avoid the need for a cassette to be inserted and 'playing' when using the aux input. I plan to make some circuit boards so others can do the same more easily, but haven't gotten around to that just yet. If you are going to keep the entire cassette player installed, then I think this last point is most important:
  • He solders his inputs to pins 1/2/3 as required, but pins 2/3 are still connected to the audio IC and will be picking up static from it, even with the reader head ribbon cable disconnected. This can easily be fixed by using a small blade to cut the two traces marked below. I think it goes without saying, but this (along with the reader head disconnection) will make the player unable to play audio from actual tapes unless things are reconnected. The circuit board in the picture below has all the components removed, but it's the same one seen in the video.
    PXL_20241021_194940674.jpg



Next up are the transfer and differentials. The former calls for API GL-5 SAE 75W-90 and the latter for API GL-5 SAE 90 (SAE 80W or 80W-90 for cold weather).

I figure 75W-90 will work fine for the differentials too. If anyone is considering the same and is wondering if the small difference in viscosity matters, I don't think so. If anything, I'd guess it would probably be better overall:
  • Looking at Mobil's gear oils as an example, their 80W-90 is 14% more viscous at 40 °C and 3% less viscous at 100 °C. At operating temperature they will be nearly identical, and the lower viscosity of the 75W when warming up should be beneficial.
  • Most 80W-90 gear oils seem to be conventional base oils. By using 75W-90, you can get a good synthetic base oil. The small difference in viscosity when new will likely be less than larger change in viscosity seen in the conventional base oil as it ages and degrades.
  • SAE J306, which defines gear oil viscosities, was revised in 2005 and 2017. Can't say what the specifications were for these grades prior to 2005 (I'm not paying $100 to find out), but it's worth noting that the viscosity recommendations didn't change for later models of the LX 470.
    • The 2005 update seems to have added new grades above 90 to reduce the wide range of viscosities covered by 90. This should mean that a post-2005 90 could not be as thick as a pre-2005 90, but the minimum viscosity for that grade should have been unchanged.
The differentials (on the 2004 at least) are all open, so LSD additives aren't needed for the oil. I figure that if LSD additives were beneficial for open differentials in some way, they'd not be marketed separately, or at the very least would have that additional benefit advertised. I also assume that non-beneficial additives are probably going to have at least some small negative effect. Not enough to really matter much (I'd wouldn't have any real concern using an LSD oil), but enough to give me a slight preference to a non-LSD oil.

All of that landed me on Mobil Delvac 1 Gear Oil 75W-90. Can't say if it's the best option or not, but it's the best I could identify with the limited information I have.



Since I was removing the front differential anyway, and since its fluid was much darker than the rear, I decided to open it up and inspect/clean. I broke a couple bolts removing the engine under covers, and am guessing that the front differential missed at least one oil change because of someone's difficulty there. Thankfully though, there was nothing really interesting to see.

PXL_20241016_012956205.jpg


Tooth wear patterns looked good. All runout, backlash, and play measurements were within spec, although some toward the higher ends of the ranges. Because of that, I didn't disassemble the internals at all. I removed the mounts, side tube, and side shaft (those snap rings are evil), and replaced both side seals. Regarding the mounts... The nuts on the side tube mount have teeth that lock them in place. Turn the bolts, not the nuts. Took two people and a now-bent vise to get it done the wrong way. The rubber bushings generally look ok, but I'm considering replacing them if I still have clunking after some upcoming changes.

One difficulty I had in taking measurements was with preload. There is supposed to be a starting preload of 0.6-0.9 N⋅m, just getting the pinion moving within the backlash with the ring gear. Once the ring gear is engaged, an additional 0.4-0.6 N⋅m should be present. With mine though, there is a relatively high torque needed to get any initial movement. After it starts moving, it moves very freely, and if I reverse directions quickly it continues to move freely. If I let it sit stationary for more than a brief moment though, it requires that high initial torque again. With all other measurements being good, I'm not too worried about that, but it is strange.

I cleaned everything up with a bit of the engine flush I used for the crankcase earlier, then mineral spirits, and finally brake parts cleaner. I tried to avoid getting much onto the rear seal since I don't plan on replacing that until the differential needs internals replaced. I used the same Mopar RTV from the engine oil pan to seal the differential cover and side tube.



Regarding the side seals, I have some thoughts about insertion depth that I posted in another thread, but since I wasn't able to determine for sure in advance how exactly the axles seat, I just went with close to flush with the ledge of the seal seats. On the tube side, this was 5.45±0.05 mm from the outer face of the tube. On the other side, this was 0.15±0.05 mm above the ledge, resulting in the lip protruding about 1 mm on each side.

I cut a couple rings from scrap 2x4's for insertion. You just need to be careful to get a very close OD on the tube side since it has such a narrow ledge for the tool to bottom out against. I had hole saws that were close enough for the other three cuts, but had to use a jig saw for the tube side OD cut.

PXL_20241021_204646177.jpg


PXL_20241021_205240998.jpg




Last note on the transfer and differentials is regarding the breather hoses and caps. I haven't pulled the transmission and transfer breathers yet, but the differential ones are terrible. Rear is terminated too low, and the front had enough buildup to be non/barely functional. Both had a lot of debris in the caps and tubes.

I'm thinking of extending all of the breathers to the engine bay. Tee in each along the way so that there's just one opening for the group, and attach that to a small desiccant/filter. Not ready to do that just now, but I'd be curious to hear if anyone has done something similar in the meantime.
 
I agree! I was a bit pressed for time when doing that one, so unfortunately the upper pan is going to have to wait. Do you know if the upper and lower can be removed as a unit? I lost some of my pictures and can't tell from the ones I have if the oil baffle is secured to the engine or to the upper pan.



Here is someone's video that gets it to a functional state at least:
My main differences with his method:
  • I soldered my 3.5 mm cable directly to the main control board instead of to the cassette player since I had no plans to keep the cassette player.
  • I replaced the entire cassette player mechanism with that little circuit in my first post to avoid the need for a cassette to be inserted and 'playing' when using the aux input. I plan to make some circuit boards so others can do the same more easily, but haven't gotten around to that just yet. If you are going to keep the entire cassette player installed, then I think this last point is most important:
  • He solders his inputs to pins 1/2/3 as required, but pins 2/3 are still connected to the audio IC and will be picking up static from it, even with the reader head ribbon cable disconnected. This can easily be fixed by using a small blade to cut the two traces marked below. I think it goes without saying, but this (along with the reader head disconnection) will make the player unable to play audio from actual tapes unless things are reconnected. The circuit board in the picture below has all the components removed, but it's the same one seen in the video.View attachment 3755038



Next up are the transfer and differentials. The former calls for API GL-5 SAE 75W-90 and the latter for API GL-5 SAE 90 (SAE 80W or 80W-90 for cold weather).

I figure 75W-90 will work fine for the differentials too. If anyone is considering the same and is wondering if the small difference in viscosity matters, I don't think so. If anything, I'd guess it would probably be better overall:
  • Looking at Mobil's gear oils as an example, their 80W-90 is 14% more viscous at 40 °C and 3% less viscous at 100 °C. At operating temperature they will be nearly identical, and the lower viscosity of the 75W when warming up should be beneficial.
  • Most 80W-90 gear oils seem to be conventional base oils. By using 75W-90, you can get a good synthetic base oil. The small difference in viscosity when new will likely be less than larger change in viscosity seen in the conventional base oil as it ages and degrades.
  • SAE J306, which defines gear oil viscosities, was revised in 2005 and 2017. Can't say what the specifications were for these grades prior to 2005 (I'm not paying $100 to find out), but it's worth noting that the viscosity recommendations didn't change for later models of the LX 470.
    • The 2005 update seems to have added new grades above 90 to reduce the wide range of viscosities covered by 90. This should mean that a post-2005 90 could not be as thick as a pre-2005 90, but the minimum viscosity for that grade should have been unchanged.
The differentials (on the 2004 at least) are all open, so LSD additives aren't needed for the oil. I figure that if LSD additives were beneficial for open differentials in some way, they'd not be marketed separately, or at the very least would have that additional benefit advertised. I also assume that non-beneficial additives are probably going to have at least some small negative effect. Not enough to really matter much (I'd wouldn't have any real concern using an LSD oil), but enough to give me a slight preference to a non-LSD oil.

All of that landed me on Mobil Delvac 1 Gear Oil 75W-90. Can't say if it's the best option or not, but it's the best I could identify with the limited information I have.



Since I was removing the front differential anyway, and since its fluid was much darker than the rear, I decided to open it up and inspect/clean. I broke a couple bolts removing the engine under covers, and am guessing that the front differential missed at least one oil change because of someone's difficulty there. Thankfully though, there was nothing really interesting to see.

View attachment 3755824

Tooth wear patterns looked good. All runout, backlash, and play measurements were within spec, although some toward the higher ends of the ranges. Because of that, I didn't disassemble the internals at all. I removed the mounts, side tube, and side shaft (those snap rings are evil), and replaced both side seals. Regarding the mounts... The nuts on the side tube mount have teeth that lock them in place. Turn the bolts, not the nuts. Took two people and a now-bent vise to get it done the wrong way. The rubber bushings generally look ok, but I'm considering replacing them if I still have clunking after some upcoming changes.

One difficulty I had in taking measurements was with preload. There is supposed to be a starting preload of 0.6-0.9 N⋅m, just getting the pinion moving within the backlash with the ring gear. Once the ring gear is engaged, an additional 0.4-0.6 N⋅m should be present. With mine though, there is a relatively high torque needed to get any initial movement. After it starts moving, it moves very freely, and if I reverse directions quickly it continues to move freely. If I let it sit stationary for more than a brief moment though, it requires that high initial torque again. With all other measurements being good, I'm not too worried about that, but it is strange.

I cleaned everything up with a bit of the engine flush I used for the crankcase earlier, then mineral spirits, and finally brake parts cleaner. I tried to avoid getting much onto the rear seal since I don't plan on replacing that until the differential needs internals replaced. I used the same Mopar RTV from the engine oil pan to seal the differential cover and side tube.



Regarding the side seals, I have some thoughts about insertion depth that I posted in another thread, but since I wasn't able to determine for sure in advance how exactly the axles seat, I just went with close to flush with the ledge of the seal seats. On the tube side, this was 5.45±0.05 mm from the outer face of the tube. On the other side, this was 0.15±0.05 mm above the ledge, resulting in the lip protruding about 1 mm on each side.

I cut a couple rings from scrap 2x4's for insertion. You just need to be careful to get a very close OD on the tube side since it has such a narrow ledge for the tool to bottom out against. I had hole saws that were close enough for the other three cuts, but had to use a jig saw for the tube side OD cut.

View attachment 3755524

View attachment 3755527



Last note on the transfer and differentials is regarding the breather hoses and caps. I haven't pulled the transmission and transfer breathers yet, but the differential ones are terrible. Rear is terminated too low, and the front had enough buildup to be non/barely functional. Both had a lot of debris in the caps and tubes.

I'm thinking of extending all of the breathers to the engine bay. Tee in each along the way so that there's just one opening for the group, and attach that to a small desiccant/filter. Not ready to do that just now, but I'd be curious to hear if anyone has done something similar in the meantime.

Lower must be removed first, then baffle which covers two bolts and one stud of the upper pan, which are inside the upper pan..
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Lower must be removed first, then baffle which covers two bolts and one stud of the upper pan, which are inside the upper pan..

Well that's annoying!



I got started on a parts list for the breather tube replacements. These aren't at all finalized, just a starting point:
Since I just got the front differential so clean, I'll be adding an inline fuel filter to its breather to keep it clean in the meantime, and to hopefully get an idea for how much contamination is actually getting in.



So the general plan for this vehicle is:
  1. Quick passes through everything to get it up to standard (what I'm doing now). Almost done with this.
  2. In-depth work on each system. This will probably take a couple years.
  3. Body-off frame restoration. Electrolytic rust removal, electrogalvanizing, epoxy primer, liner, then possibly a rubberized coating on top. Going to test this on smaller components in the meantime to make sure I settle on a good solution for the frame. If anyone has recommendations for specific products, I'd be glad to hear them. Currently I'm thinking SPI epoxy primer, SEM or Raptor for the liner, and 3M Professional Grade rubberized undercoating.
With this timeline in mind, and since I have things somewhat disassembled right now, I want to do some temporary rust prevention to minimize corrosion until I get to step 3.

I removed the looser rust and paint with compressed air, then applied a bit of Permatex Rust treatment. I'm using Permatex at this stage because it seems to have a much lighter coating than similar products, and I'm mostly interested in the rust conversion part of the product for now. On top of that, I brushed on some Fluid Film. I've mostly switched over to Surface Shield in the hopes that it will last longer in more exposed areas, but I have most of a gallon of Fluid Film that's getting old, and it should be good enough for the more protected areas.

The photo below is the inside rear of the left frame rail, where the crossmember for the spare wheel carrier mounts. You can see an area where I removed a flake of rust that I missed before I applied the Permatex, which gives an idea of the effect the Permatex had on the area above it. The light area on the very right just hasn't had Fluid Film applied yet. Overall I'm happy with the result as a temporary measure. To do much better would require more thorough rust removal and cleaning, and at that point there are better options than a rust converter coating.

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I also had some fun with the oil filter. As I mentioned, this current oil/filter change interval is going to be very short, so I used this dented Fram Ultra Synthetic XG3600 for it. More concerned with the quality of Fram these days than the dent honestly. Anyway, this filter is quite a bit longer than the factory filter. This should result in better filtration efficiency and reduced bypassing. It looks a bit close to the frame in my picture, but it has plenty of clearance. I also added twenty 1"x0.5"x0.5" N42SH magnets I had lying around.

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Regarding those magnets, I have an interesting project I am working on. The magnets shown are in an alternating array (one with north facing the filter, the next with south, next north, etc.). But there is an array pattern that potentially has much greater performance while using the same number of magnets. It's called a Halbach array, and I made some plots comparing unidirectional, alternating, and Halbach arrays with five of my magnets on an oil filter case.

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One obstacle is that the magnets in a Halbach array repel one another, so a retainer is required. But as can be seen with my current magnet application, a retainer would be useful even with an alternating array to keep the magnets from pairing up. Nineteen 0.5" magnets will fit almost perfectly around a 3" filter this way. I came up with this 3D printable design that I think will work well. It is two identical pieces that mate together. I'll be making one as soon as I can get reasonable access to a 3D printer (might be about time to get one of my own though). For scale, the inner diameter of this retainer is 3".

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I also want to experiment with a laser cut steel version, which would be similar in design but with a few simplifications. The steel backing should further increase the effectiveness of the array. There's no way this would be cost-effective for general use (buying more magnets would make more sense). Just seems like a fun experiment, but I need to find a reasonably priced cutter. A single 1" thick piece or two stacked 0.5" pieces would be nice, but I'll probably end up doing four stacked 0.25" pieces.



Also figured I'd do a deep clean of the interior. Previous owners kept it pretty nice, but 20 years of stuff below seats and under carpets really adds up. Not much notable here, except for a bit of rust on the fasteners that go through the body and are exposed to road spray. I cleaned up all the threads and applied a good anti-seize to them. I removed the rear carpet completely to clean it better, but the front is going to have to wait until I do a deeper dive into the interior. This thing is already reasonably quiet on the interior, but with the carpet removed I see a lot of potential for improvements to thermal/noise insulation. More on that later though.

Oh, and I removed the CD/DVD player since I'll be repurposing its connections for Bluetooth integration.

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The filter mod is really neat. Will you chop open a filter down the road to see how they did?
Yup! I'll cut open the Fram probably within the week. It will only have a few hundred miles on it, but I'm mostly interested to see how badly it leaks compared to other recent build Frams that all seem to have a poorly made bypass valve plate. I selected mine as the one with the highest pressure differential among a set, so the hope is that it will be relatively good. The Carquest Premium that replaces it will have a normal interval (probably 5k miles).

On the note of oil filters, I just saw this video posted:
@Patron100LC @Goose17 This might explain why it showed high particle counts in the filtered oil in the Brand Ranks test. There is a large gap between the metal core and the filter element, and it doesn't seem like the bypass or the anti-drainback valves do a very good job of sealing that gap.
 

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