Builds 40 Series Chassis, 80 Series Suspension - Kept it Simply (1 Viewer)

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Also picked up my altered front & rear drive shafts from Driveline Australia this afternoon as well. The longer of the two is from a 75 series rear shaft, shortened to fit the front, the other shorter one is the rear which was also shortened because I am running a 5 speed. The flanges on the universal joints are larger (75, 80 series) so to fit the larger flanges on the 5 speed transmission. The pinion flange on the front diff is larger as I am using a 80 series rear diff on the front which houses the Harrop Eaton e-locker. The rear diff is a rebuilt 40 series but has a Lokka installed, both shafts have been balanced also.

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As you can see from the photos below I took to the emergency disc brake with a cutting angle grinder and converted the park brake from right hand to left hand. Will clean it up, etch prime & paint and refit.

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I know you have t-case parking brake drums for split cases in OZ. Why go disc over the drum?
 
I know you have t-case parking brake drums for split cases in OZ. Why go disc over the drum?

Because the disc is stainless steel and this is beach vehicle, the drum just rusts and the beach sand gets inside the drum also and cause corrosion to parts.
 
Because the disc is stainless steel and this is beach vehicle, the drum just rusts and the beach sand gets inside the drum also and cause corrosion to parts.
Ahhh, yes, good point. I brain farted on the beach environment driving the decisions for the build.
 
The last couple weekends I have gotten a fair bit done. I pulled down my steering column to insert the bearing for support, got 80
series steering shaft plus 75 series uni joints. Will put a 45mm long spline on the 40 series steering column shaft.

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I installed a new rear diff pinion flange, assembled the rear drive shaft and installed along with the disc hand brake on the rear of the gearbox.
I am pretty happy with the alignment of the drive shafts both front & rear.

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I had originally installed a gearbox cross member from a HJ47, the FJ40 chassis are a little wider so you have to use packing plates on each side of the left & right L brackets. I found that if you use the left & right side brackets off a HJ47 but use the 60 series cross member part, you don't need packing plate as the 60 series cross member is wider.
This photo shows using the HJ47 brackets & cross member.

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This photo is after I installed the 60 series cross member, still used the HJ47 L brackets but removed the packing plates.

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Moved my attention to the roll cage. As I have to have a steel roll cage due to having a fibre glass sports tub I had it galvanised. I also have cover the steel tube with 20mm thick foam padding, but its was starting to deteriorate from the sun & weather, so I got some self adhering black UV protect plastic tape to wrap over the foam.

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Man you are doing a real good job on this thing. It will last forever. One thing I don't like though is the rear bumper. I don't like how big it is and its just a rectangular tube looking thing. Just my opinion. Everything else I envy. In my opinion use the stock tail lights and bumperettes or make a sweet rear bumper with functional angles and good tow points. Here are some I like myself:

http://www.deckersonline.com/1969_fj40
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/finished-my-rear-swing-away-bumper.272353/
 
Man you are doing a real good job on this thing. It will last forever. One thing I don't like though is the rear bumper. I don't like how big it is and its just a rectangular tube looking thing. Just my opinion. Everything else I envy. In my opinion use the stock tail lights and bumperettes or make a sweet rear bumper with functional angles and good tow points. Here are some I like myself:


You won't see it, I have an extended tub, closer to a FJ43 in size.

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