Oh ok. I didn't realize that. That will look good. 
Builds 40 Series Chassis, 80 Series Suspension - Kept it Simply (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter watrob
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2002
- Threads
- 169
- Messages
- 5,338
- Location
- Durango, Colorado
- Website
- www.durangomagazine.com
Inspiring build.
- Thread starter
- #143
I am hoping as it's fibre glass and only a sport tub that 4 people will be able to lift it, before I installed the seats and the fuel tank, three of us lifted it into position on the current chassis.
- Thread starter
- #144
Have finished the steering shafts, spline has been added to steering column shaft of the 40 series to which a bearing has been added to the bottom end of the column housing. I have added half of a 75 series uni joint combined to the half of a 80 series uni joint with the attached rag joint. I am then using a intermediate collapsible 80 series steering shaft with a uni joint which slips straight onto the 60 series power steering box.
The length adjustment is on the 40 series column shaft which is splined, I know its to long so I can simply cut down the length as required.
There has been no welding involved so the harden steel shafts have not been compromised and does not need to be re-hardened, it also gives me the added benefit of having a collapsible steering shaft for safety.
PS. I also have a small amount of adjustment on the uni (top & bottom) of the 80 series shaft where it connects onto the 60 series power steering box.
The length adjustment is on the 40 series column shaft which is splined, I know its to long so I can simply cut down the length as required.
There has been no welding involved so the harden steel shafts have not been compromised and does not need to be re-hardened, it also gives me the added benefit of having a collapsible steering shaft for safety.
PS. I also have a small amount of adjustment on the uni (top & bottom) of the 80 series shaft where it connects onto the 60 series power steering box.
- Thread starter
- #145
The 60 series has red & green led in the tacho gauge.
So bought a red & green led to install
So bought a red & green led to install
- Thread starter
- #146
Also re-wired the Pre Heat Timer plug on the HJ47 wiring loom by installing the larger plug that is required for the 12HT Pre Heat Timer. I then used a multimeter to check the wires went back to the correct corresponding connections.
- Thread starter
- #147
Next I altered the 2H FCR (Fuel or Edic Control Relay) as the 12Ht does not have a Edic motor but a VSV 12volt vacuum shut off actuator on the butterfly in the in take manifold.
Must give Rudi credit for helping me solve this problem. Here is your diagram with an explanation in color. I used different colors because in my world Red is always +12V. So RED is battery voltage that goes through the M relay and stops at the ST relay.
When the key is off, the voltage stops on the S terminal which you don't use.
Key in the IG (run) position = power (blue line) to the transistor circuit (including the OPS) and the D terminal is 12V (for your VSV).
Key in the ST (start) position = power (green line) to the middle relay which switches from D to OI terminal (for your VSV).
So now you have +12V intermittent on the D and OI terminals. But there is a minor problem.
The M relay is in series and your VSV is not going to like that. So.... take out the M relay and jump the coil contacts (red dotted line).
As I said before... when the middle relay flips from D to OI there is a split second no power to your VSV.
I don't know if that is a problem. I think not but you never know.
So I jumped the "M" relay coil.
Done.
So "D" drive (green) has power on when the ignition key is ON and "OI" overinject (yellow) has power on when the key is turn to START, so you join these two wires together and connected them to the VSV switch. When the key is turned to OFF the power is cut to the VSV switch and vacuum actuator closes the butterfly
"M" is bypassed on the circuit board and "S" stop is not used
Must give Rudi credit for helping me solve this problem. Here is your diagram with an explanation in color. I used different colors because in my world Red is always +12V. So RED is battery voltage that goes through the M relay and stops at the ST relay.
When the key is off, the voltage stops on the S terminal which you don't use.
Key in the IG (run) position = power (blue line) to the transistor circuit (including the OPS) and the D terminal is 12V (for your VSV).
Key in the ST (start) position = power (green line) to the middle relay which switches from D to OI terminal (for your VSV).
So now you have +12V intermittent on the D and OI terminals. But there is a minor problem.
The M relay is in series and your VSV is not going to like that. So.... take out the M relay and jump the coil contacts (red dotted line).
As I said before... when the middle relay flips from D to OI there is a split second no power to your VSV.
I don't know if that is a problem. I think not but you never know.
So I jumped the "M" relay coil.
Done.
So "D" drive (green) has power on when the ignition key is ON and "OI" overinject (yellow) has power on when the key is turn to START, so you join these two wires together and connected them to the VSV switch. When the key is turned to OFF the power is cut to the VSV switch and vacuum actuator closes the butterfly
"M" is bypassed on the circuit board and "S" stop is not used
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #148
Spent Saturday morning making brake lines for the front axle.
- Thread starter
- #149
Then spent the afternoon making the rears.
- Thread starter
- #150
Brake connections to front & rear axles connected, clutch slave hose also connected and the extra long starter motor battery cable connected so to reach the left hand side mounted battery, as the right side now has the air filter, (this is opposite to where the air filter is situated for a 2H diesel).
- Thread starter
- #152
I got my 52mm Boost & Pyro gauges from SAAS.
I cut two 51mm holes in the dash.
And I made this face plate to install the gauges into.
I cut two 51mm holes in the dash.
And I made this face plate to install the gauges into.
Great build .. Very thorough . It should handle well & go pretty nicely with the 12ht up front now.
I realize you're on the bottom of the world, but why are your bleed nipples on the bottom of the calipers? I thought air is lighter than fluid, even south of the equator?
- Thread starter
- #155
As you know water when released down the sink here goes in the opposite direction in its swirl than yours, the same here for our air
As you know water when released down the sink here goes in the opposite direction in its swirl than yours, the same here for our air
I thought so, but I didn't want to appear stupid so I asked it as a question
For taking any of this seriously
but I will say, those brake lines look super!
- Thread starter
- #159
The reason for the swap of left to right on the brake calipers is because of the rear panhard obstructs the brake line connection, this is why they are on reversed sides. The part rubber brake hose connection is so when I bleed the brakes for the first time I will simply pull them off and hols them the right way up. It not that you bleed your rear brakes every month?
The only reason I noticed was I had to do the same thing on a 1970 Buick Skylark. I put disks on the rear, and couldn't put the bleeder on the top - so I'd remove the caliper, put a piece of steel in the caliper (so the piston wouldn't pop out) and bled away. Eventually, I drilled a hole in the top then threaded a bleeder on the correct end....in any case, that car was a b**ch to bleed.
I guess, if you're careful, you could reverse bleed it...
I guess, if you're careful, you could reverse bleed it...
