40/40 Vision

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Been a while, granted haven't made great progress, due to other obligations, projects, and hellish heat/humidity.

Couple of hours yesterday afternoon in said hellish heat/humidity and knocked out a few items.....that always seem to propagate more.

Easy stuff.

Picked up hood pads, euro spec mirrors and a few other items, uninstalled as of yet, from @ranma21.

Amazing how the little things make such a difference.

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Have had OE fogs from @Racer65 for a while, but had been waiting on harness to install. Not completed, but they're on there and, regardless if less than optimal, think they're cool.

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Swapped rear light housings...

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And started in on the rear chassis harness....
 
Metaphorically speaking, if there were a Cruiser savior, one of the disciples would be coolerman...

Picked up a donor harness from a corresponding production timeframe (although Mark figured out it was earlier than what I have) from Gary S, to be reworked to a near non-US configuration, with newer plugs and fog light harness integrated into.

Having spent days on just the rear floor harness on the 73 Series, this is the only way to go if one lacks the patience and skill set to deal with connector locks and pins that are smurf sized. Everything is wrapped tight and perfect length. Hats off to @Coolerman for a great service that beguiles most of us that don't have the fortitude for electrical.

Removed a few variations of trailer wiring attempts.

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Don't know what kind of sound system was present before, but removed a ton of speaker wire, after I thought I had already gotten it all.

Routed the new harness, starting at the PS corner, to DS and then up the PS frame rail, most without issue, but a couple of things have puzzled (already emailed Mark, but for posterity) at the tranny/TC.

As far as I knew, there was only a reverse light switch on the tranny, but before installing harness, noticed several "extra" circuits in the same vicinity.

Thought maybe a 4WD indicator, but still didn't explain the two extra plugs at the TC.

Pulled the existing as I routed new and came to the confusion, to find a three circuit harness installed, but the coding doesn't match and uncertain which goes where.

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Closest on Mark's (I know, I know...) is wired together.

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Reverse switch differed too..

Existing:

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Mark's was a simple push pin connector.

Haven't pulled the schematic out.....because that's dangerous, so hoping there's an easy answer on what should go where and how best to address. Know I'm not cutting this harness at all, so if switches need to be swapped, so be it.

Routed up to firewall and now have to swap cowl harness to connect, which is going to suck in 112 degree heat....
 
Let's see your fog light switch when you get to it.

I may have little choice but to wake at 2-3am to get started on the cowl harness. Not used to the 98-99 degree temps with 100% humidity....but also unfamiliar with lush greenery mid summer, since the state is usually burning right now.

That said, have an idea, which is always dangerous, on the fog light switch that more corresponds with the icon-less '78 knobs, but I may forget ALL about it (and the "Cool Pull" knob) by the time I get the rest completed.

Roger,

Another cool product offering would be the wiper arm covers and even wipers, if you or Ian are looking to expand the line up.

Have new arms (not that there's anything wrong with the existing, but being Pigbrained, if it IS available it IS to be swapped) but no point without base covers or new blades.

Something else that I'll be in need of, albeit too late for OE, since I don't think I have the patience to separate all the plugs, are retrofit grommets for wiring penetrations, those that the larger plugs can't pass through.

I thought Cruiser Corps had a grommet "Kit" that I was going to split, with surgical precision (Bahahaha) and wrap around, but guess I dreamed it.
 
Those seats look right to me. They're supposed to be a dark charcoal gray color, but discolor to almost black over time, and as a result, many think the originals were black.

Thanks, Jeff.

Obviously, not a restoration to the "T", but was confused about seat/door card color because the later, OE "gray" door cards do not match. The assumed original black cards work better, although I can only find repros.
 
Unusually cooler temps have reinvigorated desire to get the 40 out, since it's been semi-disabled for a little over a month and untouched in that time.

Swapped out fasteners that were either stripped, missing, or decayed on the rear lenses and light housings, bringing the light replacements to a close, since all are now new.

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Every time I adjusted the rear view, the plastic chalk would fly around the cab,
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so swapped it, cover, down to the rubber isolator that'll prolly last until the first windshield cleaning.

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Fought the harness swap for two days.

Rear harness is still incomplete, but figured pressing on would, at least, get her back on the road.

Cut hands, seats soaked in sweat, and a continual resignation of "red/white, blue red" like a bad tune are stuck in my head.

First "issue" was regulator placement, the new harness locating on the DS, where it had been PS.

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Was hung up on, then figured it's a good time to look at internally regulated, so bolted to firewall on lower DS, thinking it'll be easier to remove later.

Thought the worst of the issues, but two damn days later and still far from complete.....kinda in a quandary on how best to proceed, WITHOUT cutting into Mark's harness.

Will depict more what I'm hung up on, tomorrow, to see if I'm missing something easy....

Been a long weekend and sucks that it's still immobile, considering all the effort, but shouldn't be but a few more days......(famous last words...)
 
:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:
:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:

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:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:
:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:

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:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:
:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:

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Hate electrical, hate the confined spaces with sharp edges that big hands are thrust into, only to figure out there's a friggin metal tube that feeds the squirter.

WTF was Mr. T thinking?

Can't clear it....yet. Can't find the backflow valve on the diagram, but assuming it's the issue.

Stared at harnesses and schematics for so damn long, all I can hear are the color codes bouncing around my brain.

At least it's 70....
 
She's now a squirter.

Celebrated the minuscule victory with wipers.

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Wish I knew of an easy way, besides completely re painting, to clean up overspray.

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Guess there's worse options than re painting.

Hung up on the harness swap.

Issue is, it's a 9/'77 rebuilt donor harness for an 11/'77 production, with a later, unknown column.

Think the ignition and the balance under the dash is figured out, but still can't seem to complete the balance.

All functions worked with the 11/'77 harness and the unknown column.



The 11/'77 original harness:

G/Y G G/BLK R
R/Y R/W R/G G/R




Unknown column:

G/Y G/W G/BLK W/B
R/Y R/W R/G G/R


9/'77 harness:

G/BLK G X R/G R/W
G/Y X G/Y X R/Y



Since the donor harness is a rebuilt unit from Coolerman, kinda have to make it work.

Know that the later production has grounds to each horn, which aren't included in the earlier harness. Not worth reworking harness for, I don't think, since they can ground locally or swapped for earlier that were.

Horn relay under hood on the 9/77 harness I know is

G/W G/R
G/Y

G/W to horns....

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Oddly, I can't find the horn relay for the 11/'77, not anywhere it would've been, not that it matters, but might help clear some confusion.

Know some of y'all can recite harnesses, by year and month, so hoping someone can shed some light on this.

I've yet to figure out the igniter, so prolly not my last dumb question.
 
Tools for the job....

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Talk about a time saver.....

Bet the HZJ73 rear harness would've taken a couple of hours, had I had this, and it's going to save all kinds of time fixing this problem on the 40.

While the extractors may look simple, I've not been able to make anything as effective and ergonomic as these.

May be running again, after an hour in the morning, now.
 
Happened upon catching up on jetranger's thread, and posting for posterity, in it's entirety.

Here's another post about the past couple of years, things I've done, people I've met, and cruisers I've bought....

Throughout the last few years, I've bought and sold a few Land Cruisers. They have each been very unique, and a lot of fun. Even though they took a lot of time away from my main 40 project, I was able to work on them, hang out with friends, and sell them for more 40 $$$.

On average, I look at craigslist a few times a day. I usually look for 40's or 40 parts exclusively. One day, I decided to look on MUD at the 80's For sale section. I came across an FZJ80 that was currently not running and the owner was basically giving it away.

I got pretty excited!

I looked at the location, and it was in Pahrump, NV, about an hour west of Las Vegas.

I got even more excited!

I noticed the ad was posted about 6 minutes before I stumbled upon it. The timing was perfect! I called him right then, set up a meeting time, and agreed on a price.

The seller even dropped it at my house for an extra $50! I got it the next evening.

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A quick rundown-

97 Land Cruiser
ARB front and rear lockers
Slee heavy duty lift
Slee sliders
35" KM2's
ARB front bumper
Front seats just recovered with leather

The seller had just changed the head gasket. After putting everything back together, there was still a knock in the bottom of the engine. I think he got pretty discouraged after a bit of diagnosing, and gave up. I started taking it apart to trace the noise. It was extremely difficult, because when it was apart, I couldn't run it to pinpoint the rattle. I had to reassemble the motor numerous times to see if it was better.

It turned out it was a tooth on the gear that was between the crank and power steering pump. Each revolution, it created a loud sound, similar to rod knocking. I ordered brand new gears from Toyota, and it was fixed!

So of course, the first thing to do after it was running was take it to the desert!

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Even though I thoroughly enjoyed working on and driving the 80, I ended up selling it a few months later for almost twice what I was into it. Although that seems like a good profit, I had close to 80 hours into it. That $ went straight toward my project funds. I knew if I kept it, I wouldn't use it very often, and I did not have room to store it.

Next up, a 78 40 series. Yet another local seller about 6 months after the 80 sold. He was the second owner and bought it only a few years old. It had been sitting for about 10 years when we went to look at it. At the time, I was going to pass on it, but a good friend of mine that went to look at it with me decided he wanted it. So, we loaded it up on a flatbed and took it home!

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After cleaning it up a bit, my buddy took it from there. It's a beautiful, well running rig now. He's done an outstanding job with it!

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And yet another 78. This one has a strange story about how I acquired. I'll try to keep it brief-

I was driving around in Boulder City, NV, which was about 20 minutes from our house, looking at neighborhoods to possibly buy a house in. As I passed by a house, I noticed the unmistakeable sight of a white fiberglass 40 top behind somebody's fence. I knocked on the door, and no answer. I go on my way and forget about it. Then, about a week later, for some reason I told my fiance I wanted to drive back and ask about the 40 again. Off we went!

The 40 was still there, but once again, no answer at the door. So I left a note with my business card. It said 'If you're interested in selling your FJ40, please call me'. Pretty straight forward!

About a week goes by and nothing. Then I get a call from an older lady. She asks what I'd be willing to pay, and I tell her I don't know till I look at it. She tells me she'll call me that weekend so I can come look at it.

That weekend rolls around and she doesn't call. I had her number, so I called her. We set up a time the next day, and I went to see it!

This is how it had been sitting for 15+ years:
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Come to find out, between the time the lady called me the first time, and the weekend she was suppose to call me, her husband passed away. He was the original owner of this 40. She was now ready to sell it, the house, and everything else she owned so she could move to Oregon and be closer to her daughter.

We agreed on a price, and off it went to my house!

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Unloaded and wiped off:

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I spent quite a bit of time cleaning this one up, but never got it running before I got a good offer on it. Because I had modified my 76 so extensively, I really wanted to keep this one to have an original too. But, there were too many mods on this one I didn't feel like working around. The biggest were:

Horrible job cutting fender flares
Aux tank fuel door
Big holes in firewall for A/C lines

I also wanted a 60's 40 for the original, so I'd keep looking. After cleaning up the 78 a bit more, it was gone in no time.

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Before it left, my buddy stopped back by to pay a visit! Look how much nicer the blue 78 looks now!

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As I mentioned earlier, I had been looking for an early model, stock 40 to go with my 76. A few months ago, I came across a 67. After looking at it and agreeing on a price, it was time to take it home! At one time, it had a Chevy 350 in it, but had been removed. So when I bought it, there was no engine.

First seeing it:

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Loading it up! Seems to be all too familiar sight by now... taking a Land Cruiser home on a flat bed!

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The hard top on it was from an early 80's. If the top was period correct, I might have kept it, but since it wasn't, I took it off and sold it, including all 4 doors.

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I was fortunate enough to find a local MUD member selling a complete 1F drivetrain out of his running 67. He is in the process of upgrading to a 2F. I went out and helped them pull the 1F and load it on my trailer.

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So that's it for other cruiser's. We are down to two. I'm waiting till I finish my 76 before I start on the 67. There will be another build thread coming soon for that one, but it will be the polar opposite of my current build!
 
For posterity, before iPhone deletion, and because my memory sucks.

40 is on the rack, prepped for the OE transmission/transfer case rebuild, as well clutch replacement. Had a cache of parts included in purchase for this operation, the balance Terrain Tamer from Ward and Georg's operation, all an effort to minimize her marking her spot on my garage floor.

As part of the mechanical restoration, rebuilding the center arm, swapping the existing gearbox and linkages for new OE, parts from @beno and @dieselbj42.

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Almost hates to unpackage the gearbox from Patrick, due to the elaborate wooden boxing, that bordered on cabinetry.

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Furthering into the rabbit hole, I preparation for the head swap and cooling system redux, picked up an late NOS heater and duct from Seper.

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that US Customs destroyed.....

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Had intended to do all possible to swap the lid with the earlier, so guess this makes that decision easier. Heater core wasn't drilled, at least.

This is now the third rare item that Customs has damaged, the most concerning an NOS Pig speedo in MPH, but heater the most costly.

Plan to focus on mechanical, stopping short of the short block, through the rest of 'winter' and early spring, including leaf swap from Kurt, shocks from Glenn, and whatever else necessary to deem a safer driver, that doesn't lean, nor nosedive. Would reverse the shackle reversal, but mounts are welded over VIN, scope showed the welds penetrating well into the inner frame rail, so nothing can be done with.

Plan to repaint in fall, to the OE blue, coinciding with weatherstrip replacement, and whatever else it takes to officially deem 'restored'.

Still a looker, one that draws attention everywhere she goes, and the collection of business cards left under wiper is growing.
 
Chris,

I'm guessing the only recourse against the Customs folks would be to insure imported parts for a bundle, and then make a claim when they ruin your stuff? I realize this doesn't replace NOS unobtainium, but they should not be repeatedly damaging goods and simply taking no responsibility for their actions.
 
I realize this doesn't replace NOS unobtainium, but they should not be repeatedly damaging goods and simply taking no responsibility for their actions.

Micheal,

In fairness to Customs....

My frustration may be equatable to that of a two time gunshot victim, each injury sustained while wearing a deerskin cost, antler hat, dancing around a deer feeder with a bullseye on their back in the heart of deer season.......... THEN bitching the third time.

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The previous curator of this great cache of NOS goodness and I discussed the problem, his solution refunding purchase price, claiming options were limited (possibly a rural shipping origination, possibly an Iranian mandate, possibly all BS....I dunno).

Refunds don't regenerate rare parts.

Then and now, my suggestion is to think the packaging through, since it WILL be opened and inspected, so that it's easier for them to unpack/repack. While an insanely taped cryoplast box with parts bubble wrapped for an Empire State Building drop are great to protect the goods during transit, it would be difficult to expertly repack.

Customs cuts tape, cuts bubble wrap, (pries on a plastic heater cover) crams back in bubble wrap, puts back in box, then bands box....recipe for disaster.

Doesn't excuse this destruction, which could've been avoided had they opened the flap to see in, but when clothed in deerskin while venturing through the woods, gotta expect your ass is gonna get shot every now and then.

Know you'll appreciate, but wasn't crazy about the late icons versus text, anyway, and determined to restore the '78s to work.

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Don't care for the fog light icon, versus simple 'Fog Light' on that knob either, to explain the depths of insanity.

Nor did I like the duct that accommodates OE AC, which I've decided against installing, since no AC was present (plus, one would think an OE AC evap blower, duct, NOS and used controller, as well as an NOS and used harness would be worth what I paid......but sure as hell won't be on Mud..) so....

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All for less than what a heater core and restoration would've cost.....if trying to find the bright side.

Chris
 

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