Updated headlight switch for 72 40

[coondawg]

PO replaced original 84110-60031 headlight switch (soldered terminal) with the updated 84110-60030 switch (5 regular spades + J pin). Didn’t change connectors … rigged it to work by running a wire direct from battery to headlight switch. The biggest problem is I can’t find a pinout for the updated switch, would be nice (@Coolerman @ToyotaMatt) if someone has a harness adapter to connect the 84110-60030.

Thanks!

~rick

 

[coondawg]

@ToyotaMatt has left the building!? Great loss for forum, if so!

 

[B y r o n]

Information in this thread may help.

 

[coondawg]

Information in this thread may help.

Thank you, sir … I’ve been through that one half a dozen times, at least. Same switch I have, but all the iterations and conflicting color codes don’t make sense. Jumper on the 60031 doesn’t match the 60030. Tells me right away something is different. The graphic for 72/73 in trippster’s first post is definitely wrong for the 60030, because the back two pins stay hot. The parking lights would stay on even in the off position. His marked up image shows 6 wires, the ‘72 has only 4. The bottom photo in ToyotaMatt’s Aug 12, 2020 post appears to show connector configuration that matches what my trusty multimeter is telling me, but the wire colors don’t match and it’s wrapped so I can’t confirm which wires are going to which pins

 

[coondawg]

Year and month of your FJ40 would help!
If your head light switch looks like this, the drawing below shows how to connect it. This is a 1971 switch...

View attachment 1539966

Coolerman to the rescue, again! It took some serious digging, but his drawing in the quoted thread confirms my meter readings! These switches are very common. Hope my bringing it up again helps others.

 

[nabbasi]

I misunderstood your question. Coolerman’s drawings stored here have saved me so many times. Truly couldn’t haven’t rewired my rig without his help, both over email and in old forum posts!

 

[coondawg]

Sorry to resurrect my own post … the @Coolerman link I posted above got me started

, but Toyota threw me a curve ball. Same switch, but in ‘72, Toyota took away the RB cluster lights wire and added a second taillight power wire (from top fuse). The wiring shown in the Haines schematic causes the tail/park lights to remain on when the switch is OFF. Question becomes, where to put that new hot wire, then? If you put it where the ‘71 RB wire was or the one above it, the jumper will keep your tail/park lights on even when the switch is off. The RW wire has to remain where it is, or the headlights will come on too soon, and the R wire doesn’t make sense in any other position. The only viable solution I see at the moment is to abandon the taillight power circuit and run everything from the headlight circuit OR join the two power lines and attach them where the red wire is. PRO: redundant power for all lights. CON: the tail/park light circuit is 15A with 16 awg wire, the headlight circuit is 20A with 12 awg wire. If headlight circuit fails, tail light circuit is hauling way too heavy a load.

I realize this isn’t OE switch for ‘72, but is often referenced as a replacement.

Any thoughts?

 

[nabbasi]

Can you share the diagrams you are using, and the wires you have present?

Green wire to the rear has a splice for the RB meter power - I think that’s the easier issue to solve.

Do you have:

+12V in (12-14ga R for headlights)
+12V in (16ga G for the tails/ meter/ turn)
RW out to dimmer for headlight power (and turn signal?)
G out for rears (and spliced into a RB for the meter lights?

 

[coondawg]

Can you share the diagrams you are using, and the wires you have present?

Green wire to the rear has a splice for the RB meter power - I think that’s the easier issue to solve.

Do you have:

+12V in (12-14ga R for headlights)
+12V in (16ga G for the tails/ meter/ turn)
RW out to dimmer for headlight power (and turn signal?)
G out for rears (and spliced into a RB for the meter lights?

I’m using the most current update of the Haines diagram for ‘72/73 from coolerman’s repository, along with his drawing, above.

My wiring is exactly as you describe. The RB spliced into the green isn’t an issue at all. It works perfectly.

The issue is the *two* circuits (rather than the previous one).

Having the 15A tail circuit and the 20A headlight circuit combined is a non-starter both functionally and safety-wise, but you can’t avoid it with the pictured switch.

I’m sure many people in this situation just abandon their 16ga G and power everything from the R headlight circuit—functionally, it works correctly. But they’re still adding quite a bit of extra load to the 20 amp headlight circuit along with a single point of failure, in which the whole truck goes black if the headlight fuse blows.

Toyota made a special switch to handle the situation for this one year, then dumped it. They can be found—for more than their weight in gold—I’m currently investigating a more economical alternative that allows for a periodic-appropriate switch with the necessary functionality.

Thanks for the assist, my friend!!

 

[nabbasi]

I’m using the most current update of the Haines diagram for ‘72/73 from coolerman’s repository, along with his drawing, above.

My wiring is exactly as you describe. The RB spliced into the green isn’t an issue at all. It works perfectly.

The issue is the *two* circuits (rather than the previous one).

Having the 15A tail circuit and the 20A headlight circuit combined is a non-starter both functionally and safety-wise, but you can’t avoid it with the pictured switch.

I’m sure many people in this situation just abandon their 16ga G and power everything from the R headlight circuit—functionally, it works correctly. But they’re still adding quite a bit of extra load to the 20 amp headlight circuit along with a single point of failure, in which the whole truck goes black if the headlight fuse blows.

Toyota made a special switch to handle the situation for this one year, then dumped it. They can be found—for more than their weight in gold—I’m currently investigating a more economical alternative that allows for a periodic-appropriate switch with the necessary functionality.

Thanks for the assist, my friend!!

Ah, I see, because the two middle pins have th jumper.

Do you have the Toyota H4 / Relay/ Koito H4 relay kit? 8110-60P70

Less than $20 from a few dealers, and turns your switches into relay triggers to take the load off. This might solve your issue.

 

[coondawg]

Ah, I see, because the two middle pins have th jumper.

Do you have the Toyota H4 / Relay/ Koito H4 relay kit? 8110-60P70

Less than $20 from a few dealers, and turns your switches into relay triggers to take the load off. This might solve your issue.

It may, indeed! I’ll check it out. Thank you again!

 

[72FJnoco]

Sorry to resurrect my own post … the @Coolerman link I posted above got me started View attachment 3994580, but Toyota threw me a curve ball. Same switch, but in ‘72, Toyota took away the RB cluster lights wire and added a second taillight power wire (from top fuse). The wiring shown in the Haines schematic causes the tail/park lights to remain on when the switch is OFF. Question becomes, where to put that new hot wire, then? If you put it where the ‘71 RB wire was or the one above it, the jumper will keep your tail/park lights on even when the switch is off. The RW wire has to remain where it is, or the headlights will come on too soon, and the R wire doesn’t make sense in any other position. The only viable solution I see at the moment is to abandon the taillight power circuit and run everything from the headlight circuit OR join the two power lines and attach them where the red wire is. PRO: redundant power for all lights. CON: the tail/park light circuit is 15A with 16 awg wire, the headlight circuit is 20A with 12 awg wire. If headlight circuit fails, tail light circuit is hauling way too heavy a load.

I realize this isn’t OE switch for ‘72, but is often referenced as a replacement.

Any thoughts?

Hello all. New to this thread but glad it exists! Sounds like the R and RW are pretty standard. However, I have two green wires coming from the factory connector. I assume the green wire that is currently soldered to the RB jumper wire is for meter lights per your diagram? Just want to be certain. I have attached a pic. Thanks!

 

[nabbasi]

Hello all. New to this thread but glad it exists! Sounds like the R and RW are pretty standard. However, I have two green wires coming from the factory connector. I assume the green wire that is currently soldered to the RB jumper wire is for meter lights per your diagram? Just want to be certain. I have attached a pic. Thanks!

View attachment 4025406

Red is power in from the fuse block.
Red with white is power out to the dimmer switch.
One green is power in from the fuse block.
The other green is power out to the meter + rear lights.

 

[coondawg]

Hello all. New to this thread but glad it exists! Sounds like the R and RW are pretty standard. However, I have two green wires coming from the factory connector. I assume the green wire that is currently soldered to the RB jumper wire is for meter lights per your diagram? Just want to be certain. I have attached a pic. Thanks!

View attachment 4025406

The switch on the right is the one that gave me so much trouble that I finally dumped it … there is no way to make it work properly on a ‘72. The switch on the left looks like it might be an OEM ‘72 switch, but I’d have to put it on the meter to be certain. As Nadeem rightly pointed out, there are two *separate * circuits on the ‘72 switch. The headlights red (from fuse block) and red/white (to dimmer switch). The second circuit is Green coming in hot from the fuse block and sending the load out to all the other lights when the switch is in both the park & headlight positions. The reason you need to meter the switch out is some of these switches will combine the two circuits, i.e. the headlights red positive and the taillights green positive get connected together. If the headlight circuit dies the lights will all attempt to run off of the taillight circuit (for the short period of time before the fuse blows or a fire starts because it’s overloaded. On the other hand, if the taillight circuit dies, you end up running all lights on the headlight circuit. Still adding a significant load and running the risk of damage. Particularly if you’re running halogen headlamps. Make sense?

That’s just operating the designed architecture for the lights. The lights on my ‘72 were “fixed” by a previous owner (PO). What a mess! I had to re-wire half the truck. Also, don’t trust the schematics. The ones Coolerman provides are the best I’ve found, but are still riddled with mistakes & misinformation. ‘72 was kind of a snowflake year. Test, test, test!

FWIW, I ended up using one of these:

But I still had to rearrange pins on my harness plug. Gimme a shout if I can be of more help!