Builds 4 door FJ40

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Been looking through this thread. That one from hollywood looks awesome! I agree with using the JK as a model. Its very well proportioned. I have an idea: use a campbell hood for the front, and tub the rear fenders to the top of the tub too. Keep the COG lower that way. Also, I would just source some JK rear doors, cut the skins off the jk doors, and put modified 40 skins on em. In fact, if you found a jk at a junkyard, you could torch out the the whole freakin rear door jambs too and weld em into your tub. Also, if I were you, after doing all the welding, I would have the whole body acid dipped and galvanized.
Thanks for the suggestion. I think I've got a simpler solution with stock doors.
 
F250 shock towers showed up today. The shock mount is a couple inches above stock. Should allow me more options for shocks.
 
F250 shock towers showed up today. The shock mount is a couple inches above stock. Should allow me more options for shocks.

You can also use 80 series shock towers as well? they fit under the battery tray also. Keeps the chassis all Toyota.
 
I attended overland expo 2014 and got to look at the frame of a Brute based on an extended Jk frame. Got some good ideas for fish plates.
 
Have a copy of the FJ40 frame dimensions drawing handy and some levels and just make sure everything is square and level and lined up during fitup of your fill pieces and fish plates. Tack it up and weld it without fish plates and see where it warps to. If it is too bad make a strategic zip cut and bend it back a bit beyond where you need it and try again. A piece of angle bolted between the frame mounts just forward of your frame cut hold that section at proper width for example. Once you have the frame together and straight you can add the fish plates. As long as you use good practice in controlling the warpage with your welding you should be good. I added length to my 40 frame where you cut and didn't really have much trouble. A chalk line on the ground and a plumb bob from the center of all the crossmembers ensures you get it straight. Levels across the cross members keep it from being twisted. and a leve or straight edge on either side of your cut makes sure you don't get the rear of the frame too high or too low. I would recommend blocking it on something other than the springs because they move too much.
Chris
 
Have a copy of the FJ40 frame dimensions drawing handy and some levels and just make sure everything is square and level and lined up during fitup of your fill pieces and fish plates. Tack it up and weld it without fish plates and see where it warps to. If it is too bad make a strategic zip cut and bend it back a bit beyond where you need it and try again. A piece of angle bolted between the frame mounts just forward of your frame cut hold that section at proper width for example. Once you have the frame together and straight you can add the fish plates. As long as you use good practice in controlling the warpage with your welding you should be good. I added length to my 40 frame where you cut and didn't really have much trouble. A chalk line on the ground and a plumb bob from the center of all the crossmembers ensures you get it straight. Levels across the cross members keep it from being twisted. and a leve or straight edge on either side of your cut makes sure you don't get the rear of the frame too high or too low. I would recommend blocking it on something other than the springs because they move too much.
Chris
Thanks for the advice Chris. I've got a neighbor who is a welder by trade. He has done a lot of frame stretches. He has agreed to come over and help me with all the frame welding hopefully later this week. I've got the local steel supply bending my frame channels as we speak. The body has been split. I drilled all the spot welds along the seam on the bottom and used my portaband to cut the B pillar welds.

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I have been thinking about building a 4 door Cruiser. I have been gathering parts. My plan it to use full doors in the rear. I want to build on like the Olive one in the first pages of this thread. My oldest son does paint and body work so when he comes to visit, I will put him to work.
 
looking good keep it up!

I like how the body separated.
 
F250 shock towers showed up today. The shock mount is a couple inches above stock. Should allow me more options for shocks.

I cut mine where they bend out from the frame, straightened them and welded a little triangle into the gap. That way the top of the shocks are a little more inboard, maybe 1.5" and you have to modify the body less to get them to fit. I actually didn't cut the sheet metal at all, just bent it out of the way a bit, so some future owner could potentially put it back to stock.
 
How long did it take to split the body?
Not too long. There were about 22 spot welds on the bottom seam that took a while. The rest was fast and easy.
 
I cut mine where they bend out from the frame, straightened them and welded a little triangle into the gap. That way the top of the shocks are a little more inboard, maybe 1.5" and you have to modify the body less to get them to fit. I actually didn't cut the sheet metal at all, just bent it out of the way a bit, so some future owner could potentially put it back to stock.
Can you post any pictures?
 
I picked up the steel channels I had bent for the frame rails today from my steel supplier. Hoping to get the frame back together this week.
 
I have been following this thread for awhile & decided to join the forum.
How is the project going?
 
Summer has been brutal with my time. Vacations, Reunions, weekend getaways, and cramming as much work in between as I could. On top of that it's hard to get motivated to melt metal in 100+ temps. Then my professional welder neighbor got really sick and spent several weeks in the Hospital. Hes better now and just talked to me again about welding the frame. Temps are coming down finally, and today was the first Saturday I have had free in months. Soooooo A little Progress. :)
 
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