Build 4 door FJ40
- Thread starter Volcanic Iceberg
- Start date
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This may illicit a riot but i don 't mind the way the 4 doors look on a JK..
I think its a good model to go off of.
I think its a good model to go off of.
- Thread starter
- #163
I think They would work, however if You look at the rear doors on most modern SUV's, thier back doors have a stationary window and an opperable window. The stationary window is above the wheelwell cut which allows the opperable window to retract fully. Otherwise if it was full width It would impact inside the door and only retract partially. So the real challenge for me is to convert the wing window portion into a stationary and move it to the rearward part of the door, basically rebuilding the door upper parts. In doing this the guts (window raising mechanism) would be in the wrong place. What I think needs to be done, is pulling the whole inside panel of the door off and reconfiguring the location of the lift mechanism and swap sides, passenger to drivers and vise versa, so the lift arm is pointed forward instead of back.
Its a mess really. A giant project in itself, but that would allow me to delete 4-6" out of the door width. 110-112" wheelbase would be pretty nice. 80 series is 112 incidentally.
- Thread starter
- #164
Did a little tear down last night. pulled the seats, gas tank, filler neck and fuel separator, Exhaust, GM gas pedal, heater, audio, misc hack wiring, and a big chunk of diamond plate that was booger welded in due to the floor on the drivers side being cracked and rusted. UGH! That was one of the unpleasant surprizes on this sight unseen purchase. 
On a positive note, I actually had that exact replacement panel sitting in my garage, so Im in good shape. Just more work..... Tranny hump is going to need some repair work. Surprisingly, no broken bolts yet! 
One of the bonuses with this truck is it came with new rear quarters and a new inner fender. All will be used so make this a rust free runnner. Im only going to do this project once, and so Im going to do it right to the best of my ability.
On a positive note, I actually had that exact replacement panel sitting in my garage, so Im in good shape. Just more work..... Tranny hump is going to need some repair work. Surprisingly, no broken bolts yet! One of the bonuses with this truck is it came with new rear quarters and a new inner fender. All will be used so make this a rust free runnner. Im only going to do this project once, and so Im going to do it right to the best of my ability.
It's a Fred Flintstone emergency brake?
How about adapting the parts from FJ6x rear side doors? You would have the side guide piece between the fixed and roll up glass and maybe the mechanism could be adapted. I have a 60 and can take some measurements if you want.
- Thread starter
- #167
Thanks, but I've got the 40 series parts and I'm 80% sure I can make it work. Most likely the doors will end up with an interior panel similar to late model doors.
- Thread starter
- #168
Spent a little more time staring at the doors and scratching my head. Figured out that I can cut the inside panel completely out of the doors and transplant them to the opposite side door, the lift arm will be in the correct location and orientation. - should work. Still hoping to cut 4" out of the width as well. MrPepper is coming over Thursday to help pull the body off. Once its off, I will start working on splitting the frame.
I've been absent from the Forums for a bit, but I do make it a point to wander over to this thread in particular, whenever I'm on. A formal thank you, for inspiring me to build my truck, and I'm doubly pleased that it's going to serve as some sort of inspiration for you, in turn.At last the moment has arrived when the project can actually begin!
I have already begun with the first step which is to sell all the extra parts that I had lying around, and that came with this cruiser to generate some capital. Next, get rid of that body lift and start the stretch!
View attachment 881678
If at all, I could be of any help whatsoever - in terms of advice, opinion, and plain old moral support - it'd be my pleasure. Here's to hoping that your four door Cruiser turns out to be just as spectacular, as you hope it'll be.
On the matter of the angled rear door, the only way we could figure out having an operable window was to keep an inoperable window at the end of it, too. This additional channel allows the rear window to slide all the way down. Of course, the alternative to this, is to keep a full window, which does NOT roll all the way down.
I'm digging all of the brainstorming going on, by the way!
I'm digging all of the brainstorming going on, by the way!
I'm also taking the liberty of posting a link here. This is the 'live feed' thread of the Phantom's build, in which I chronicled the various stages we encountered, while they were occurring. Most of the stuff is in English, but there is the odd, occasional lapse into my native tongue - Urdu - every now or then. Hope it helps, mate. Cheers.
http://www.pakwheels.com/forums/4x4-clubs-off-roaders-suv/180081-phantom-city-sadar-road
http://www.pakwheels.com/forums/4x4-clubs-off-roaders-suv/180081-phantom-city-sadar-road
- Thread starter
- #172
Ok the body is off. Spent an hour preasure washing The frame. looks to be in decent shape. No real rust problems. The plan is to finalize measurents and then cut the frame. Once the frame is lengthened I will cut the body behind the front doors and re-attach the two halves to the frame. Then I can start the work of welding in new metal and rear doors.
For the frame, I have ford F250 shock towers coming, and I have a set of OME 2.5" fj40 front springs and a set of OME 60 series 2.5 springs for the rear coming. Need to get the BTB shackle reversal ordered, clean off the Chevy engine mounts, wire wheel and paint.
For the frame, I have ford F250 shock towers coming, and I have a set of OME 2.5" fj40 front springs and a set of OME 60 series 2.5 springs for the rear coming. Need to get the BTB shackle reversal ordered, clean off the Chevy engine mounts, wire wheel and paint.
- Thread starter
- #173
BTW for this build, I am in need of a few parts. I need the top rails of a tub where the top rests. they have the same profile as the door sils and will be used to make my "B" pillars. Anyone know of a tub that is being sut up or scrapped, let me know. Im also missing a brake drum, the bib hinge, a decent hood, fiberglass top and driprail. Im sure there will be more. I have parts I can trade as well.
- Thread starter
- #174
No turning back now.......
Just as a heads up, I lengthend a 40 frame a couple of years ago and was real careful measuring, cutting, used fish plates, etc, welded slowly, and still ended up with a slight twist i could not get out. Ended up scrapping the frame. Highly suggest a jig or table to hold the frame down.
- Thread starter
- #176
Thanks for the heads up whitey. Obviously I plan to take my time and go slow, but I am stressing a little bit. I do plan on jigging the frame I may end up taking your advice and stripping the suspension and axles so I can drop the frame onto a flat surface. I may call on MrPeppers' help since he is a mechanical engineer and seems to be able to problem solve better than I can. I could see his solution involving lasers.
- Thread starter
- #177
My thoughts at the moment are to make the infill section kind ofLike a box that I can square up with the inner sleaves extending from that box into the frame. Ill do all the prep and tack it together then My neighbor who is a professional welder will help me do the finish welds. I also have another friend who built a frame from scratch for his stretched cj7 crawler who has been coaching me. I know a lot of guys key thier cuts, his are all straight. Im confident with the help I have that it will stay together just so long as we can keep it straight and true. My cuts appear to be good so hopefully thats a good foundation to build on.
I have the top minus the drip rails in good shape, what is your location.
- Thread starter
- #179
My location is shown under my avatar 
- Im in southern Utah.
- Im in southern Utah.
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Been looking through this thread. That one from hollywood looks awesome! I agree with using the JK as a model. Its very well proportioned. I have an idea: use a campbell hood for the front, and tub the rear fenders to the top of the tub too. Keep the COG lower that way. Also, I would just source some JK rear doors, cut the skins off the jk doors, and put modified 40 skins on em. In fact, if you found a jk at a junkyard, you could torch out the the whole freakin rear door jambs too and weld em into your tub. Also, if I were you, after doing all the welding, I would have the whole body acid dipped and galvanized.