3sp flywheel with 4sp trans

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

It can be done no problem as has been stated.

I have this setup on my 1966 FJ40 with an H41.

I also installed the 3 spd fork through the left side of the 4spd bellhousing to retain the existing clutch hydraulics.
 
e rock said:
The later flywheels are supposed to have a small step as well (the pressure plate alignment pins are just pressed in).
Click to expand...

Right, later flywheels are stepped. When I dropped off mine at the machine shop they gave me a quote to machine and balance it. A few hours later they called to tell me the estimate was going to be higher. Seems they didn't know it was stepped until they started to work on it. Pins out, machined correctly, pins back in, more money from my wallet.
 
Hi All:

Sorry "Pighead," I guess I was not clear.

I meant to infer that to swap from a three speed J30 transmission to a H41/42 four speed one must use all matched clutch components - either all "three-speed" or all "four-speed." Oh, and to use the H41/42 transmission one must use a "four-speed" type bellhousing.

Regards,

Alan

--------------------------------------------------
Pighead said:
Sorry. I still think I'm right. My Pig came as a '74. 4-speed bellhousing, everything else was 3-speed...3-finger pressureplate, throw-out bearing and all. Led to some confusion at times but I learned this..."If you use ALL the matching (year) components, you can switch from the 3-speed to the 4-speed stuff."
(I farmed my first engine rebuild to Danny Warden, but forgot to bring him my pressure plate. He threw in a diaphragm-type when it went to the balance shop. so I had to switch everything to 4-speed on re-installation. I (like to think) I know I know this answer...
Click to expand...
 
not to dredge up old stuff but I went to do a clutch and tried to use a 1F clutch/flywheel/pressure plate/release bearing on a 2f with a 4spd (clutch and such was for a 1F with a 4speed) and for the record you would also need to have the clutch fork from the 1F at least it would not work as I had it.
 
Last edited:
Toshi38 said:
not to dredge up old stuff but I went to do a clutch and tried to use a 1F clutch/flywheel/pressure plate/release bearing on a 2f with a 4spd (clutch and such was for a 1F with a 4speed) and for the record you would also need to have the clutch fork from the 1F at least it would not work as I had it.
Click to expand...
Yes, correct, it is a whole system.
  • clutch release fork
  • fork boot
  • fork pivot ball
  • release bearing hub
  • release bearing
  • clutch cover
  • flywheel

The parts that are interchangeable are:
  • clutch disc
  • pilot bearing
  • bellhousing
 
This is a great thread!

If I am reading it correctly, my 1974 FJ55 would have come with a 2F bellhousing, but a 1F, or earlier style, coil spring clutch?

My dilemia is that my clutch fork broke and I am trying to figure out what to order...

1974 FJ55
3FE
4 spd transmixer

My understanding is that there are cast and stamped clutch forks?
Are there clutch forks for 1F, 2F and 3F systems?
Are there adjustable and non-adjustable systems as well? I have not thought about this at all until my clutch fork broke and parted out the guts of my slave cylinder...

Does this happen often? It seems odd that my clutch fork broke, I want to make sure I did not have the wrong components in there that led to a failure.
 
The typical USA spec 1974 Cruiser would have an F engine, a 4-speed bellhousing, adjustable master & slave, coil spring clutch and an H42 tranny.

The correct fork for the coil spring clutch is the stamped one.
 
FJ40Jim said:
Yes, correct, it is a whole system.
  • clutch release fork
  • fork boot
  • fork pivot ball
  • release bearing hub
  • release bearing
  • clutch cover
  • flywheel

The parts that are interchangeable are:
  • clutch disc
  • pilot bearing
  • bellhousing
Click to expand...

AAh.....yes it is the fork pivot ball that most people forget and it doesn't work with out the right one. I used a sm420/3sp bellhousing/ 4sp clutch stuff and it didn't work without the pivot ball form a 4sp bellhousing:bang:

-Rob
 
I'm in the same process right now but have come up with a bit of a problem..? I have a 3FE with the 4 speed trans in but I had a brand new 3 speed clutch on all the parts from the 3 speed... so My question is that when I put the shifter fork in from the 3 speed into the 4 speed boot it seems that the ball is still not long enough?.. I have the 3 speed ball in there which is longer already but when I push on the fork it just wants to pop out of the ball because instead of pivoting on the ball its pivoting on the edge of the bell housing..??? Is there something I'm missing? I don't think its the shifter boot as its going to hit with or without it.. I don't think its bent either.
 
Do you have the correct clutch slave push-rod for your clutch fork? 'Cause they're different between spring and diaphragm...
 
I actually don't have that on yet but just in the process of putting the clutch all in and it just seems the 3spd clutch fork is way off to what the 4spd clutch fork was?.. because the 3spd fork is stamped steel and the angles are pretty different....
 
DHracer3 said:
I'm in the same process right now but have come up with a bit of a problem..? I have a 3FE with the 4 speed trans in but I had a brand new 3 speed clutch on all the parts from the 3 speed... so My question is that when I put the shifter fork in from the 3 speed into the 4 speed boot it seems that the ball is still not long enough?.. I have the 3 speed ball in there which is longer already but when I push on the fork it just wants to pop out of the ball because instead of pivoting on the ball its pivoting on the edge of the bell housing..??? Is there something I'm missing? I don't think its the shifter boot as its going to hit with or without it.. I don't think its bent either.
Click to expand...

Mechanics 101: Form follows function.

In ANY install, the fork should be near the forward edge of the opening in the bellhousing in order to insure that you will have sufficient range of motion for the fork to swing rearwards while the TO bearing is engaging the PP. If your pivot ball is the longer version and you still do not have the correct placement, perhaps something is worn out.

You could conceivably remove the bolt that secures the the pivot ball to the bellhousing and insert a washer or two behind the pivot ball to move it closer to the clutch, BUT............I would not do so until exhausting all other options, especially investigating the possibility of worn out parts.

Best

Mark A.
 
i dont know why other people had problems but they interchange,have done it many times.either use all 4 speed parts or all 3 speed parts dont know what the big deal is.
 
65swb45 said:
Mechanics 101: Form follows function.

In ANY install, the fork should be near the forward edge of the opening in the bellhousing in order to insure that you will have sufficient range of motion for the fork to swing rearwards while the TO bearing is engaging the PP. If your pivot ball is the longer version and you still do not have the correct placement, perhaps something is worn out.

You could conceivably remove the bolt that secures the the pivot ball to the bellhousing and insert a washer or two behind the pivot ball to move it closer to the clutch, BUT............I would not do so until exhausting all other options, especially investigating the possibility of worn out parts.

Best

Mark A.
Click to expand...



I think this will probably work out.. I can always get a nice strong bolt and washers if it doesn't work..
I think it will work just waiting on my parts now so I can put the clutch back in!!!
Hopefully soon then I can throw the whole thing back in the frame!


The reason I'm concerned is really the fact it has no range of motion on the fork.. its sits very close to the back edge and then it has about 1/2" of motion at most.. it just didn't seem right to me.
 
I want pics.
 
If using a coil spring clutch, it also needs all the correct actuating parts that are different from the diaphragm clutch. In this instance, it is necessary to remove the tall pivot ball from the 3 speed belhousing and bolt it into the 4spd BH.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

asu4runner
Flywheel interchange
Replies
10
Views
1K
asu4runner
asu4runner
cartelcruiser
Sparks from starter/bell housing/flywheel?
2 3
Replies
41
Views
3K
cartelcruiser
cartelcruiser
mydogpea
73 fj40 F engine No timing mark on flywheel?
Replies
7
Views
1K
charliemeyer007
charliemeyer007
1962fj40
Flywheel F vs 2F
Replies
13
Views
1K
DeskJock
DeskJock

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom