3B Rebuild and Performance Notes (1 Viewer)

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Nice work on the intercooler there yotahed! Glad to hear it's made such a big difference to the EGT's. Had the same experience with mine too. Once you go intercooler, you never go back. lol.
 
Nice work on the intercooler there yotahed! Glad to hear it's made such a big difference to the EGT's. Had the same experience with mine too. Once you go intercooler, you never go back. lol.

Thanks Nick.

No doubt man. I was accelerating up the steepest bit in 5th on the way home and was passing people and gaining a lot of speed. It was crazy!
Where before, I'd have to settle in at a lower pedal position to keep the EGT from creeping over 1200F.
Foot flat to the floor and the highest I saw was just a hair over 1000F. And it took awhile to get it that high.
 
It's an s shaped plate designed to force the intercoolers incoming charge air to go over all of the inner tubes rather than part of them. It makes the intercooler more efficient with its cooling essentially.


Like this basically except his tank is different
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum...d1145547080-more-power-intercooler_baffle.gif

Yes. My tanks inlet outlets are parallel with the flow and are both at the top. Maybe an inch from the top of the cooler. I'm thinking a baffle running to about 3 inches from the bottom and cutting the flow roughly in half at the top, so its not "hitting a wall" and still allows some flow through the top.
All good ideas, whether or not I'll get to it is something else lol.
Some radiators have a similar design when the outlets are on the same side. Mine does anyway.
 
Were you concerned about stalling your turbo (BOV)?

Yea, since the 3B has the butterfly plate, its just kind of a safeguard against premature wear on the turbo really. Before I put it in I got a lot of whooshing(lack of a better word) from the pressure backing up in the turbo when shifting or coming off the throttle suddenly... It was cheap. Lol

Hope to modify my pump soon and get rid of the diaphragm governor altogether. Its around $4K for the mechanical governor from a 13BT, but I think I can fit a RQV governor with boost comp from a similar pump. Or just fit a different pump set up to 3B fuel needs. I'm really looking hard for a 13BT core that needs a rebuild. Would make things a lot easier. Or simply go rotary.... Easy enough with new lines.
 
I would have thought it was for cooling purposes only but was a retricter of sort if the cooling was already good. Or is it s shaped to make it whistle:D . Funny when you put a bov in everyone thinks you have turbo problems. Shouldn't it be manditory if your running a butterfly valve ?
 
Funny when you put a bov in everyone thinks you have turbo problems. Shouldn't it be manditory if your running a butterfly valve ?

Yea, its amazing how many times I've had to explain why I have one on a diesel.... Then I point to the TB, and they go "ohhhh". Lol.
 
I was told to put one on when I was playing with a new manifold design and turbos for the hdt , the guys who thought it was hideing a surge issue couldn't figure out how I was pulling vacume. I like the inserted cnc commpressor drilling in the turbos that percission turbos and others use for they're safety. I left mine on and just unhooked it , especially when crossing deep water.
 
Played with the fuel a bit today. Turned out another turn and a half.
This thing is turning into a monster. Lol. Still can't break 1100F, actually seems to run cooler EGT at highway rpms and up hills at speed. Its taking off and going up the gears with my foot in it that I see any increase in EGT. They just seem to level out at 800F and creep very slowly from there no matter what. Very cool.

At the higher fuel levels, I'm getting a slow surge while trying to maintain a certain load/pedal position. I can watch the boost move between 12 and 16back and forth like a pendulum, unless I throttle back to almost deceleration.... You can feel the power surging in relation to boost as well.
I had this before, and tried to figure out what it was, but I still don t really know for sure..
My bleed valve was closed off today as well, so its not that.

Stupid diaphragm throttle...lol
 
Try a stronger spring in the Bov. Can you mimick it parked so to see if the bov is opening? Surge line at the butterfly ? Peddle moving? You need more reserve in the intake manifold ;)
 
It might be the BOV. Ill check it. But when i first installed before setting it up, it wouldnt open with the dual springs. So i took one out and cranked the screw in and it worked fine. And my reference is after the butterfly in the intake.

It only seems to do it on hills with the engine loaded up, trying to maintain a part throttle position. Doesnt do it with foot to the floor up hill, or on the flat. Just at part throttle uphill.
 
Checked the BOV after work. It did have a bad oring at the charge pipe opening. Changed it out, but it made little difference, and probably only a slight leak...
I had this problem before installing the BOV as well.
 
Try removing and capping the bov. I don't use one myself and make sure I don't let off the throttle quickly. I've only heard my turbos surge a few times after hard acceleration and quick shifting. Just a thought.
g
 
Yea ill try blanking it off, but id rather run it for now,
I remember when i first installed the turbo, it did the same thing. Its more pronounced at higher fuel settings, but i barely notice it when backed down on the fuel..
 
Do you think that your butterfly valve is to close to the intake then for the extra pressure built up in the intake. This is when ateb got me started with the intake mod enlargement for the bigger turbos. I too put a butterfly valve on the intake too .seemed to do much what your saying. I moved it back a bit .a little better ,then went up a bit in higher flowing turbo . Only to learn that it was my intake design . I had my plenium entrance tapperred as well as my pleniun ,changed the plenium to non tapperred no changed ,took out the butterfly no change ,changed the plenium entrance to non tapperred bingo ,can run any turbo now with no issues. Apperrentally a perfect setup is to have the surge line right at the entrance of the plenium ,hard to control with a butterfly vale there I think. In my case it was the tapper apparently this can be compounded for some reason .
 
All good points.
Id rather be done with this throttle plate business altogether..
I found a used 13BT pump. Its in NZ though. Ill have to see if he ll ship here. Hopefully i can snag it.
Ill most likely have to swap the cam and barrels/plungers with the 3B pump and ill probably rebuild with new ones anyhow. i have specs for both, so should be a relatively simple changeover aside from frankenstein-ing it.

Anybody have a dead 13BT pump for an r&d project?
 
Hi yotahed,


What the secret of putting a replacement IP back into your engine without have to take off the radiator, harmonic balancer and front gear cover housing?


Shouldn't you be able to set the engine to BTDC and see the marking on the IP gear thru the inspection plug on the side of the front gear casing where the IP bolts on?
 
The IP just slides out after you undo all the fuel lines, oil line and three bolts on the mounting flange and the support at the rear. It should pop out with a little effort. Same for install.
There are splines that only line up one way so it pretty hard to screw up. The timer gear should stay stationary as long as you dont rotate the engine. Its held in by the case and wont fall out or anything like a Cummins sometimes will. You have to heat the outer cover to get it on the timer gear, so i cant see it skipping teeth very easy, and should be where it was when you removed the IP.
 
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Are we talking 3B 2H 12HT or what? Theyre all similar but have their specific methods...


Edit
Just noticed you had that other thread going.
I think the timer is actually bolted to the IP camshaft. There is no splined shaft "add on" like the 3B and 13BT. The 3B has marks on both male(pump) and female( gear)splines that you line up.
13BT has a spline missing on the pump that you line up with the corresponding oversized spline on the gear.

From what i can see, the 12HT just has a woodruff key and a nut. Kind of s***ty if thats the case. Got a pic of the input/camshaft on your pump?
Maybe the gear/timer isnt connected to the outer case like 3B and 13BT..... Ive never even seen a 12HT in person so couldn't really tell you whats what for sure.
 
Last edited:
Are we talking 3B 2H 12HT or what? Theyre all similar but have their specific methods...


Edit
Just noticed you had that other thread going.
I think the timer is actually bolted to the IP camshaft. There is no splined shaft "add on" like the 3B and 13BT. The 3B has marks on both male(pump) and female( gear)splines that you line up.
13BT has a spline missing on the pump that you line up with the corresponding oversized spline on the gear.

From what i can see, the 12HT just has a woodruff key and a nut. Kind of ****ty if thats the case. Got a pic of the input/camshaft on your pump?
Maybe the gear/timer isnt connected to the outer case like 3B and 13BT..... Ive never even seen a 12HT in person so couldn't really tell you whats what for sure.




Found the answer if you check my other thread, it will be the same for re-installs of most Toyota IP's.


Set engine to TDC on piston 1, find the tooth on the IP gear that has the flat edge on the inner edge (on the IP housing side), paint it white. Remove the inspection plug on the side of the IP timing housing cover where the IP bolts back into, make sure the white marked tooth is in the middle of the inspection hole, all done.
 

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