3B Rebuild and Performance Notes (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

yotahed

yotahed

Diesel Head
Joined
Dec 16, 2010
Threads
52
Messages
904
Location
Kelowna, B.C.
I've edited the title to better reflect the content of this thread.
Any 3B Performance Numbers, dyno charts, rebuild kit sourcing, engine part quality reviews, turbo selection, intercoolers and real world experience etc.
This would be a good place for it.


I've been thinking of getting a hold of a 5 bearing, sleeved 3B (not a 3bII) for a complete and thorough rebuild/build up with bulletproof parts for longevity and good power.

1.)Was wondering if it would be possible to do a rollerized camshaft/lifters in a 3B?
Higher rate valve springs with a narly cam grind?
Wonder if a machine shop could use roller lifters from another engine and fit them to a 3b?

I would be getting a short block and fitting a new high nickel head with all new valves, springs etc. new pistons(maybe bore it oversize), rebuilt inj pump and injectors/lines, the whole shebang.

I'd be happy with a completely stock rebuild, but if there are better options for building a bulletproof engine, im open to suggestions. I like the 3B for how easy it is to work on and tune.

cheers
 
Last edited:
Solid lifters.
Yes it will be boosted. 18-20psi max.
Yes they are bullet proof, but they do have their weak points as well.

Balanced rotating assy would be a good start. If a guy could figure a way to rollerize the valve train, and stiffer springs, the safe redline would go up as well as raising/widening the power and torque band. Would be tough to get roller rockers though....

Just some thinking out loud and throwing out ideas...
 
If you're going to start with a new engine anyhow, why not consider a 13BT? I've seen a couple of rusty BJ74's with good engine's go for cheap in the last year or so. Grab the 13BT, part out the rest, and you'd probably almost have a free engine. Direct Injection FTW.
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
If you're going to start with a new engine anyhow, why not consider a 13BT? I've seen a couple of rusty BJ74's with good engine's go for cheap in the last year or so. Grab the 13BT, part out the rest, and you'd probably almost have a free engine. Direct Injection FTW.
Click to expand...

This is what I am thinking. Depending on how much you are budgeting for your rebuild I think your still better off on going the DI route. I know there is unknown buying a used engine and all. Mike Mctague is selling a 13bt and a 5 speed for 5k if I remember correctly. May be a good option. Heavy duty clutch, gturbo, port match and polish the intake, the thing would rip.
 
My truck already rips. With the fuel turned down and 35's it still goes good.
I can get a 5bearing short block for 300 bucks. For the minimal difference in power and reliability, Im staying IDI.
Some might say thats stupid, but i already have a full turbo setup for the 3B and would simply swap everything over after the rebuild.

That being said if i could find a cheap 13BT long block with a pump and a good head, then yea id definitley think on it, as I could use a few of the parts that i already have.(turbo, h55, clutch, mounts the same)
But honestly id like to save the different motor thing for a different truck and go 1hdt or 1hz-t when the time comes.
For now i like the tractor motor.
And really, in the comparison between the two motors are they really much different? Aside from injection systems of course.
Id like to see a tuned turbo 3B running 18psi next to a tuned 13bt running 18psi and see which one tops the other, or how close they come to one another....

Not tryin to kick your ideas out the door, just curious to see if itd be worth my while yknow?
 
Last edited:
yotahed said:
My truck already rips. With the fuel turned down and 35's it still goes good.
I can get a 5bearing short block for 300 bucks. For the minimal difference in power and reliability, Im staying IDI.
Some might say thats stupid, but i already have a full turbo setup for the 3B and would simply swap everything over after the rebuild.

That being said if i could find a cheap 13BT long block with a pump and a good head, then yea id definitley think on it, as I could use a few of the parts that i already have.(turbo, h55, clutch, mounts the same)
But honestly id like to save the different motor thing for a different truck and go 1hdt or 1hz-t when the time comes.
For now i like the tractor motor.
And really, in the comparison between the two motors are they really much different? Aside from injection systems of course.
Id like to see a tuned turbo 3B running 18psi next to a tuned 13bt running 18psi and see which one tops the other, or how close they come to one another....

Not tryin to kick your ideas out the door, just curious to see if itd be worth my while yknow?
Click to expand...


I hear ya. My little 3B (intercooled, turboed and well tuned) rips as well. Its not really get up and go power but rather the great tourque. On long hills 2F's 2H's and 1HZ's disappear. My 60 looks to have about the same brick like aerodynamics as your truck.

There are a few threads on well built 3B's, guy named Gerg has compound turbos on his and climbs the Coquihalla with ease. Get a 5 bearing 3B, rebuild it, boost it up and away you go.

Nice thing about a 3B is another one can be had cheap and easy (at least here in Canada).

When my 3B goes I might look into a 1HZ-t as well. But I sure like the tractor motor and the chances of it failing are slim to none, :popcorn:
 
Last edited:
Totally understand why you want to go the 3b route.
Really you can't go wrong even upgrading the pistons and heck you could even go to the extent of going the twin turbo route. Gerg's truck blew his crank and you may be able to buy some parts off him for cheap.
Go for it!

In the end really what is the difference in fuel economy between a 13b-t and a 3b-t.
Makes me even wonder with the 1hz-t vs the 1hd-t. I'm really happy with my set up so far.
 
I wouldnt consider the rollers to much as I bet a custom set would set you back more than the whole rebuild. High rpms on these motors are not as useful when you just have a 4 valve engine. I think it would have a serously hard time breathing properly. If your engine has good compression I also wouldnt rebuild it, but perhaps change out the bottom bearings, mls head and do some porting and valve work and up your boost. Heck sealing your throttle plate will get you a couple lbs boost right there and that is definately a power sucker. Boost leaks = lost hp. Ive still not figured out how to seal mine properly as I cant disassemble it without destroying it. On all the 3bs ive taken apart the pistons are not the weak link. Most look completely sound after many years of abuse. I did some pre cup porting on this last head I just did based on some higher performance stock GM IDI cups I saw on another forum.

Yes I did break my crank and will be replacing it in a few months, but got a great motor for cheap to run in the mean time. Im not parting out my rebuilt engine as the crank was keyed together and didnt even score the bearings. Im going to maching a new crank, so no super cheap parts off me sorry. I personally think my crank was tempered in my moly coating process. It went through 2 heat cycles and Im pretty sure I cooled it too quickly. My mistake.

Without getting your pump to chuck more fuel out much of the increasing power talk is very limited. Ill see if I can find the number of an old injection dude who was going to do my pump for me. I think hes still alive somewhere in the praries.

There should be a thread on how to maximise a 3bs power in stock form. If you start it, Ill contribute a post or two. I still think the stock pump can put out more fuel than simply maxing the screw.
 
I believe you can adjust/twist the stock plungers so they deliver a higher volume of fuel, at least that how the manual words it...
11mm plungers would be ample to get you to the engines limits and beyond... crank the opening pressure up 100 psi and dial in the timing....
Like mentioned above- port/polish the head and ceramic coat pstons, cc's and precups, hell maybe even the valve faces and manifolds/turbine housing.

This rebuild is meant to keep me occupied for about a year, and go to town on it. just picking away and really making everything the absolute best it can be, + some.
Im not in a rush as my current lump has some good life left i think,(hope)

X2 on the roller cam idea gerg. I just figured less stress on the valve train would be a good thing, but like you said, probably would cost enough to make it unreasonable and not really feasable..
 
If u wait a bit before u re build your engine I'll have mine out soon with a list of all the work I have done to it and dynod to see how much u can push out of the 3b engine turbo
Everything your thinking of doing to your 3b I pretty much have done to mine pluse couple of other things as well

Greg if u are looking for a new crank for the 3b I know someone that has one new never used from factory
 
Cool. Sounds good bud
 
How does one go by adjusting the plungers to get more fuel?

I have maxed out my pump and need a bit more fuel so if this method can give me a bit more fuel i wont have to rebuild it with bigger plungers

anyone got the manual where it says this can be done?

Thanks!
 
Its in the pump section, after the prestroke adjustment. Theres a chart with :rack position/pump rpm/measuring stroke/injection volume.

This is the chart and the picture they show.. i think you need a test bench to do this correctly though....
 
,......,........

ForumRunner_20131204_073615.jpg
 
Again, im not 100% on this, its just what i understood from the way the manual worded it. There is a specified range of injection volume, so i guess if you set it slightly higher, you get more fuel throughout the rev range.. again not too sure id attempt it without a bench and some good measuring equipment... not something id do with a few wrenches and a measureing tape......

ForumRunner_20131204_073735.jpg
 
Last edited:
Pre-Cup insulation

Had a read on this today. Started me thinkin a bit.
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=2329.0;wap2

I know some of you have ceramic coated the precup, but which part?
the entire thing or just the cylinder face?

Seems coating the entire thing as well as coating the upper cavity where the injector and glow plug sits can have a real positive effect on both fuel mileage and power.

Very cool stuff. I like how he's pro-IDI too :D


:beer:
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

KIWIALEX
3B engine and clutch issue
Replies
0
Views
261
KIWIALEX
KIWIALEX
Turbobrick211
BEB fail engine rebuild
Replies
7
Views
2K
Turbobrick211
Turbobrick211
FDo5g
What is the best shop to rebuild a 3B?
Replies
8
Views
1K
Smithtec
S
toadshade
Anyone have a place to rebuild a Diesel Fuel pump in Atlanta?
Replies
0
Views
286
toadshade
toadshade

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom