3B Rebuild and Performance Notes
- Thread starter yotahed
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- diesel engine rebuild
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- Thread starter
- #142
Definitely sounds bad ass
...via IH8MUD app
...via IH8MUD app
- Thread starter
- #143
Tested a big Volvo highway inline pump this morning. Big 6 cyl. What a beast. Was working with a 20 year pump veteran giving me the low down on setting up and testing on the bench. Kind of off topic, but seeing it and doing it definitely makes the pump section of the 3B manual make a whole lot more sense. Lol. He sure explained it really well.
Pretty sweet. Ill try to take a video next one i do.
...via IH8MUD app
Pretty sweet. Ill try to take a video next one i do.
...via IH8MUD app
- Thread starter
- #144
I was looking for new nozzles and didnt have much luck with the monark or bosios,
So i looked at the denso and bosch replacements. Seems there are 7 possible nozzles that fit both the 2H and 3B. I believe the difference is in the rated opening pressure and spray pattern.
Ill list them here with bosch and denso cross numbers and rated pressure where applicable:
Stamping: DN4SD24
Bosch:0 434 250 014
Denso:093400-0010
Pressure:110-125Bar
DN4SD24ND80
9 432 250 014
093400-0800
115-125Bar
DN4SDND135
N/A
093400-1350
115-125Bar
DN4SDND142
N/A
093400-1420
115-125Bar
DN4SD24NP80
N/A
ZEXEL#:1050001950
N/A
**** DN0SDND136 ****
N/A
093400-1360
****125-135Bar****
DN0SDND177
N/A
0934001770
115-125Bar
Im going to order the ones i starred through work if theyre still available. I have an extra set of injectors(the originals) to play around with, so i can play with the pressures and see what the pattern is like.
But any ways, there's the info for the interested.
Cheers
So i looked at the denso and bosch replacements. Seems there are 7 possible nozzles that fit both the 2H and 3B. I believe the difference is in the rated opening pressure and spray pattern.
Ill list them here with bosch and denso cross numbers and rated pressure where applicable:
Stamping: DN4SD24
Bosch:0 434 250 014
Denso:093400-0010
Pressure:110-125Bar
DN4SD24ND80
9 432 250 014
093400-0800
115-125Bar
DN4SDND135
N/A
093400-1350
115-125Bar
DN4SDND142
N/A
093400-1420
115-125Bar
DN4SD24NP80
N/A
ZEXEL#:1050001950
N/A
**** DN0SDND136 ****
N/A
093400-1360
****125-135Bar****
DN0SDND177
N/A
0934001770
115-125Bar
Im going to order the ones i starred through work if theyre still available. I have an extra set of injectors(the originals) to play around with, so i can play with the pressures and see what the pattern is like.
But any ways, there's the info for the interested.
Cheers
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- Thread starter
- #145
Testing a p7100 inline tommorow morning. Guy wants a hot pump, so I get to play around a bit on the bench. I'll try to take a vid if the boss man lets me. :thumbup:
- Thread starter
- #146
Intercooler Installed!
Finally. only took me 2 years.....
I finished my NPR alternator conversion with time to spare, and figured "what the hell"
I still have to put beads on the ends of a few of the pipes, and i might change a few angles,(dont like the sharp 90* coming out of the turbo) but its together, looks sweet, and, MAN, does it make a difference.
Changed the feel of the rig quite a bit.
Without touching fuel or boost, I took it for a shake-down. My boost dropped 3 psi (im assuming from all the piping and bends+intercooler itself), I have a tiny amount of lag, yet boost still reaches 10 psi by 1800rpm.
EGTs are down, and come up much slower when giving it the boot. I was having too much fun and quickly glancing at the guage. when reaching the top of 3rd off the lights, it would usually be around 850F, now its around 650-750F.
I cranked the boost back up to 18psi, and turned out the fuel a turn and a half.
Now we're talkin. Basically very close EGTs to above, but a very noticeable increase in power. we'll see how it does when it gets hot on the highway.
Ill get some real numbers on my way to work on monday. some good grades on the drive to Vernon. I was running 1200F last week MAX, usually around 1050-1100F on the big long grades @ 90-100km/h in 5th@ 2500-2600rpm
Pics in the morning of the setup.
Finally. only took me 2 years.....
I finished my NPR alternator conversion with time to spare, and figured "what the hell"
I still have to put beads on the ends of a few of the pipes, and i might change a few angles,(dont like the sharp 90* coming out of the turbo) but its together, looks sweet, and, MAN, does it make a difference.
Changed the feel of the rig quite a bit.
Without touching fuel or boost, I took it for a shake-down. My boost dropped 3 psi (im assuming from all the piping and bends+intercooler itself), I have a tiny amount of lag, yet boost still reaches 10 psi by 1800rpm.
EGTs are down, and come up much slower when giving it the boot. I was having too much fun and quickly glancing at the guage. when reaching the top of 3rd off the lights, it would usually be around 850F, now its around 650-750F.
I cranked the boost back up to 18psi, and turned out the fuel a turn and a half.
Now we're talkin. Basically very close EGTs to above, but a very noticeable increase in power. we'll see how it does when it gets hot on the highway.
Ill get some real numbers on my way to work on monday. some good grades on the drive to Vernon. I was running 1200F last week MAX, usually around 1050-1100F on the big long grades @ 90-100km/h in 5th@ 2500-2600rpm
Pics in the morning of the setup.
Cool man, any pics? You will find your egts will climb much slower indeed. Make sure your clamps are crazy tight as they can leak under high pressure and can be tuff to figure out. All things equal, cooler air requires less pressure for the same mass. I would expect a drop in boost depending where your waste gate takes it's line pressure from. If it's pre cooler then it will drop some.
- Thread starter
- #148
Got the MBC plumbed right off the turbo outlet into the WG. Just a couple turns and all is well. Pics tommorow. I'm gonna be playing around with it.
Got a line on MONARK injector nozzles. Search EBay.de for DN4SD24 MONARK and you'll find them. 22 more available. Get em while they're hot, lol.
It was $175CAN shipped for 4. I got mine on the way. Gonna prep my spare injectors at work this week and get the seals and seats for an easy 1/2 hr swap out.
Got a line on MONARK injector nozzles. Search EBay.de for DN4SD24 MONARK and you'll find them. 22 more available. Get em while they're hot, lol.
It was $175CAN shipped for 4. I got mine on the way. Gonna prep my spare injectors at work this week and get the seals and seats for an easy 1/2 hr swap out.
- Thread starter
- #149
As I said, I don't like the hard 90 on the turbo outlet. Might clock it either to the fender or the valve cover with a wider radius pipe 90.
I also dont like the transition in the last 2 pics. It had to be a 125 pipe from the IC into a short straight to a 45 coupler to get around the bend, but I might put the 45 coupler on the 125 instead of the little straight piece. Basically swap them around. Pretty tight in there.
I also don't like the hard 90 into the intake, but you really can't do much with that.
Other than that im happy its in.
I also dont like the transition in the last 2 pics. It had to be a 125 pipe from the IC into a short straight to a 45 coupler to get around the bend, but I might put the 45 coupler on the 125 instead of the little straight piece. Basically swap them around. Pretty tight in there.
I also don't like the hard 90 into the intake, but you really can't do much with that.
Other than that im happy its in.
Looks cool. It sure is tight in there, I see what you mean. Any chance of modifying you fan shroud to fit around the piping? It would be much better for rad cooling and would help the intercooler at slower speeds as well. I'd recommend for sure that you seal up the gaps around the piping through the front clip going to and coming from your cooler to stop air from bypassing your rad. Have you ever pressurized your charge piping and checked for leaks? I've always had a significant leak from the shaft on the throttle plate which I've only been able to slow and not fully seal. I figure I'm loosing a couple pounds right there by itself. I bet with a lot of monkeying that shroud could be made to work. You would definitely find it helpful in summer. Be a bummer to have to keep your foot out of it for high coolant temps.
Good work.
G
Good work.
G
- Thread starter
- #151
Don't have a fan shroud lol.
I'm gonna make one out of 3/32 Al. Put my sheet metal training to use. Basically a square to round fitting in 2 peices. But first I want to make new motor mounts to drop the engine an inch and a half or so. It sits a little high at the front. And the motor mounts were welded on when I knew nothing about welding. I'm surprised they've lasted this long....
As for the holes in the rad support,, I'm planning on cutting some 3/16 rubber mat I have and cutting a tight hole for the pipe and plastic body rivets to hold it there to stop air from shooting thru. Also to keep the pipe from rattling off the body.
Haven't tested for leaks yet. I might just make a tester at work for fun.
I also put a rivet in the turbo oil feed fitting, I seem to have a small amount of oil caking at the 90 degree elbows. Went from just over 1/8" to just over a 1/16". See what happens.
I'm gonna make one out of 3/32 Al. Put my sheet metal training to use. Basically a square to round fitting in 2 peices. But first I want to make new motor mounts to drop the engine an inch and a half or so. It sits a little high at the front. And the motor mounts were welded on when I knew nothing about welding. I'm surprised they've lasted this long....
As for the holes in the rad support,, I'm planning on cutting some 3/16 rubber mat I have and cutting a tight hole for the pipe and plastic body rivets to hold it there to stop air from shooting thru. Also to keep the pipe from rattling off the body.
Haven't tested for leaks yet. I might just make a tester at work for fun.
I also put a rivet in the turbo oil feed fitting, I seem to have a small amount of oil caking at the 90 degree elbows. Went from just over 1/8" to just over a 1/16". See what happens.
- Thread starter
- #152
Got a question,
With the the way the IC has both inlet and outlet at the top, will it want to flow more across just the top portion of the cooler? I was thinking maybe slicing into it to put a deflector in to force the air to the bottom first...
As is, after a real hot hill climb, the hot side is HOT. The cold side is actually very cool. Barely warm to the touch even in the engine bay...
With the the way the IC has both inlet and outlet at the top, will it want to flow more across just the top portion of the cooler? I was thinking maybe slicing into it to put a deflector in to force the air to the bottom first...
As is, after a real hot hill climb, the hot side is HOT. The cold side is actually very cool. Barely warm to the touch even in the engine bay...
Yeah bias flow is always a concern with coolers. It sucks cus the bias air flows faster through less tubes and causes more friction and pressure drop, while netting less time in and over a smaller surface area in the cooler to allow for heat shedding. It's a double whammy. Or quadruple considering how friction works. The math geeks will get that one.
I cut one end tank off mine and reversed it so entry was top and exit off bottom other side as well as did the deflector. Don't know if you can do that with limited space, but the s shaped deflector would be an improvement I'd say for sure. Jereme did it on his as well. He might have a pic but I have none sorry. Was pretty straight forward to do though. So you did your transplant?
g
I cut one end tank off mine and reversed it so entry was top and exit off bottom other side as well as did the deflector. Don't know if you can do that with limited space, but the s shaped deflector would be an improvement I'd say for sure. Jereme did it on his as well. He might have a pic but I have none sorry. Was pretty straight forward to do though. So you did your transplant?
g
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- Thread starter
- #154
Which transplant? Alternator?
- Thread starter
- #156
No no. That two years ago when I swapped in the 3B.
I just havent gotten to fixing them yet. Lol. Beginner booger welded and just touched up last couple times I've had time to crawl my ass up in there.
As for the deflector, I was thinking along the same lines, an S or an upside down J to direct the air down so its forced thru the entire cooler.
Maybe just slice into the front and back in the shape I want, bend up a flat piece of Al to fit in the slice and weld it on the outside.
I think I'll have to do it this way because of the space available and I already have more bends in the piping than I want.
Something to work on later.. I'll just enjoy it for the time being..
I just havent gotten to fixing them yet. Lol. Beginner booger welded and just touched up last couple times I've had time to crawl my ass up in there.
As for the deflector, I was thinking along the same lines, an S or an upside down J to direct the air down so its forced thru the entire cooler.
Maybe just slice into the front and back in the shape I want, bend up a flat piece of Al to fit in the slice and weld it on the outside.
I think I'll have to do it this way because of the space available and I already have more bends in the piping than I want.
Something to work on later.. I'll just enjoy it for the time being..
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- Thread starter
- #157
So, after the highway run:
I can barely break 1000F under a heavy boot and 20psi(boost is slightly misadjusted) up 3+ km of pretty good grade.
Last week I could break 1200F easily and I've cranked the fuel a turn or two over the weekend.
Coolant temps are slightly up, but its also warmer out and now I have a heat source in front of the rad.
Pretty impressed so far.
I can barely break 1000F under a heavy boot and 20psi(boost is slightly misadjusted) up 3+ km of pretty good grade.
Last week I could break 1200F easily and I've cranked the fuel a turn or two over the weekend.
Coolant temps are slightly up, but its also warmer out and now I have a heat source in front of the rad.
Pretty impressed so far.
I fart around here to much as it is so I don't really read anything not 80 or hdt related ,but going to have to read this one. On the deflecter plate thing why would you want to not have it go through as straight and fast as you can if you can fuel right up and not Max your egt's ? I would think that should be figured out in the final tuneing stages for obvious hp responce reasons. No?
It's an s shaped plate designed to force the intercoolers incoming charge air to go over all of the inner tubes rather than part of them. It makes the intercooler more efficient with its cooling essentially.
Like this basically except his tank is different
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum...d1145547080-more-power-intercooler_baffle.gif
Like this basically except his tank is different
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum...d1145547080-more-power-intercooler_baffle.gif
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