370,000 Miles...Too Many? (4 Viewers)

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GraniteChief

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May 25, 2020
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I found a well-built, well-maintained 1997 80 series for 12k US. It has EVERYTHING on it that I want sans a drawer system and ARB lockers (it has a sissy Aussie locker :rolleyes:). It has bumpers, tire carrier, skids, winch, suspension, you name it. Lots of OEM parts replaced. I've never even considered buying something with this many miles though. Do these trucks really last forever? I'm no stranger to old vehicles or maintenance. I currently drive a 1996 Jeep I turned into a crawler and haven't been to a mechanic in 20 years.

*Not a teenager looking for a car that he thinks is cool*

I used to fix up old XJ's and flip them for some context. I want an expedition rig for exploring remote deserts in the Southwest and my biggest concern is reliability. Do these engines reach an age where they just throw rods? Do the transmissions start slipping at a certain mileage? I can replace a broken axle out by Capital Reef, but I can't fit a spare transmission in the back with my overlanding gear. Lower mileage Land Cruisers are out of my budget so my other option is just to build up a different XJ, only problem is a) they're 1/4 ton unibodies, and 2) cargo capacity is smaller than I'd like.
 
Nothing last forever 🤷‍♂️
That being said theses LC stand a better chance then most !
 
Bludozer said:
It could run for another 200k with no issues, or it could s*** the bed the day you get it. These are very reliable, especially if maintained well, but these types of questions are impossible to answer. Countless variables at play.
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How do they usually sh*t the bed though? Throw a rod, magic smoke escapes the trans, lower intestine falls in the bowl, or do they just kinda slowly wear out?
 
Post up some photos of the vehicle, engine bay, undercarriage, interior, any body damage (peeling paint, rust?), etc,etc.

Key question I would ask is if the head gasket had been replaced and what else was replaced at the same time. I would also ask how much oil is the engine using, but expect it to be high if the engine is untouched (old valve stem seals or leaks).

A list of the parts that have been replaced, receipts for prior service might help. Current or past history of engine codes would help.

As others have said, there's no way to say for sure how much life is left in the components that are original.

If you wanted to go this far you could ask to collect a sample of used engine oil from the vehicle (not brand new oil that was just changed) and send it a company for an Engine Oil Analysis; that would tell you if there were high wear metals in the oil or possibly a head gasket leak. If the oil was just changed that test would have less value unless something serious was happening inside the engine, but it still cannot predict the future.


What happens when these get old/high miles more parts/systems start needing more attention more often. A short in the engine harness for example is one of those things that can stop you dead in the water.

Again, biggest ticket item is often from a blown head gasket, so if that's already been replaced along with the other things that should be replaced at the same time, that's a good thing.

You also should drive the vehicle even have someone (mechanic, other 80 series owner) drive it.

Either way, that is high miles and IMHO don't think it would be worth 12k unless it was otherwise in very good condition inside and out (paint condition, interior) and has had some major work done on it.

FWIW
 
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If it has good bones and you don’t see it bleeding fluids or billowing smoke, everything works satisfactory and the seller provides lots of receipts and other documents pertaining to maintenance then it is worth it. Sounds like it has nearly $12k in upgrades. Plenty of 80’s out there way north of 400k miles still on the road. My 93 has 312k and you would never know it.

I just bought a 96 with 238k for $4k from the guy who owned it since 1999 but he neglected it as its priority in the stable declined over the years. Runs great and everything works but it needs A LOT of sprucing up. It was exactly what I was looking for. Has good bones, no rust, no mysterious issue but needs a basic refresh. There is a market for every machine out there. If you plan to drive it 25k miles per year then maybe look somewhere else or be prepared to do some extensive work. If she seems solid when you look at it and you plan to use it only a few thousand miles per year and you like wrenching then it might be for you.

Find some faults with it and then, in you most confident manner, offer $9k. 😉
 
GraniteChief said:
How do they usually sh*t the bed though? Throw a rod, magic smoke escapes the trans, lower intestine falls in the bowl, or do they just kinda slowly wear out?
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Depends, mine had 153k and had every service in the book at a Toyota dealer but didnt stop the head from blowing or develop a knock from a rod bearing failure.

At 370k its not just about the engine crapping out but you will likely be chasing gremlins and general maintenance as things just wear out, hoses, wires, seals, o-rings, motors etc and you'll start running into discontinued parts.

If I were buying this I would do so expecting to rebuild the engine.

If 12k is your budget you may want to wait and keep shopping as you can find lower mileage samples
 
The biggest advantage to these rigs imo is the finite number of systems that it uses.
Now tho I am coming from the OBDI perspective.
Stay focused and take your time and you will run out of things to refresh/replace/base line. It's all gravy after that.
 
There just no way to answer this question.
What’s perfect to some is falling apart to others.
There’s just no way to know what’s been done and the youngest of these is now 25 years old.
I have spared no expense on mine to keep it in good running order and reliable on remote trails.
Yet there’s always something to be done.
There’s things that would bother others that I just let go like the slow windows and ripped leather on the shifter.
Those things won’t leave me stranded on the trail but might drive others crazy and have to be fixed.
I can say in confidence that any of theses trucks is going to need your attention and wallet !!
So just get it and we will help you spend your money 😉
 
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Broski said:
There just no way to answer this question.
What’s perfect to some is falling apart to others.
There’s just no way to know what’s been done and the youngest of these is now 25 years old.
I have spared no expense on mine to keep it in good running order and reliable on remote trails.
Yet there’s always something to be done.
There’s things that would bother others that I just let go like the slow windows and ripped leather on the shifter.
Those things won’t leave me stranded on the trail but might drive others crazy and have to be fixed.
I can say in confidence that any of theses trucks is going to need your attention and wallet !!
So just get it and we will help you spend your money 😉
Click to expand...
Well said. I can relate to the slow moving windows thing. Never looked into it but sounds like it might be common.
 
Buy it, rebuild the engine for $3k, rebuild the trans for $2k, and now you have a kitted out FZJ with a fresh motor and trans, the rest of the components to fail are minimal. IMO I'd never pay a premium for a low mileage, because when you have to do the inevitable maintenance, you're just deeper in the hole money wise for no reason.
 
@GraniteChief , you’ve got some good advice from experienced 80 owners in this thread, so far. I especially like the ideas about the importance of how you expect to use it and what you can ignore so you don’t become ocd about the rig like myself and some others. I’ve owned my ‘94 for 25 yrs of its 29 yrs and bought it with 125K on it. It’s now got just under 300K and has been maintained by me, so I know it’s history well. If you’re confident of its maintenance history and your skills, I’d recommend buying it. Mine has served me well and expect it to last another 300K at least. The engine is still strong and suspension tight, even with my mods. I rarely rock crawl - mostly used for over landing. It’s the best vehicle I’ve ever owned hands down and I bought it used. So, just another’s opinion.
 
Update: it’s actually an LX450

It has some rust above the windshield and behind the rear tires. There’s actually some rust-through behind the passenger front tire by the exhaust that needs a patch. A little rust on the tailgate. They salt the roads here so I’m not surprised tbh. The rest is pretty rust free.

It has 35” tires and stock gears. It’s slower than molasses. They guy said it weighs 7k lbs currently so I’m guessing this is normal? Will 4.88’s give it some pep and let me tow a small trailer?

The rust is somewhat disappointing but I weld and I can fix it. It’s kinda hard to find a rust free anything here. The engine grumbles slightly for a second when coming to a stop but the last 2 80’s I drove did this too so I’m guessing it’s normal? The current owner is a diesel mechanic and it used to be a govt vehicle for interstate travel so i think it’s been well maintained.
 
GraniteChief said:
Update: it’s actually an LX450

It has some rust above the windshield and behind the rear tires. There’s actually some rust-through behind the passenger front tire by the exhaust that needs a patch. A little rust on the tailgate. They salt the roads here so I’m not surprised tbh. The rest is pretty rust free.

It has 35” tires and stock gears. It’s slower than molasses. They guy said it weighs 7k lbs currently so I’m guessing this is normal? Will 4.88’s give it some pep and let me tow a small trailer?

The rust is somewhat disappointing but I weld and I can fix it. It’s kinda hard to find a rust free anything here. The engine grumbles slightly for a second when coming to a stop but the last 2 80’s I drove did this too so I’m guessing it’s normal? The current owner is a diesel mechanic and it used to be a govt vehicle for interstate travel so i think it’s been well maintained.
Click to expand...
I run 35’s, switched to 5.29’s and tow an off road trailer. (Check my sig for links to trailer and mods to 80). I recommend 5.29’s for more usable power. Others run 4.88’s.
Edit: Also might add that doing it that way, you’ll have higher rpm’s on the highway, but the engine will be happier while towing. Not the best for mpg, but LC’s ain’t known for fuel economy.
 
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IH8RUST more then IH8MUD
It would be a hard pass for me at that price 🤷‍♂️
 
Broski said:
IH8RUST more then IH8MUD
It would be a hard pass for me at that price 🤷‍♂️
Click to expand...
Where are you finding 26 year old 4wd’s with no rust? Aside from the hole on the passenger floor I thought it was pretty minimal. I was looking at Tacomas a few weeks ago and 5/5 had rust bad enough to not warrant buying or fixing. I’d love to find an 80 without rust but I figured I could fix the rust on this one in a couple weekends. The frame has none. Oh, and he said he can do 10k 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
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