370,000 Miles...Too Many? (1 Viewer)

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I found a well-built, well-maintained 1997 80 series for 12k US. It has EVERYTHING on it that I want sans a drawer system and ARB lockers (it has a sissy Aussie locker :rolleyes:). It has bumpers, tire carrier, skids, winch, suspension, you name it. Lots of OEM parts replaced. I've never even considered buying something with this many miles though. Do these trucks really last forever? I'm no stranger to old vehicles or maintenance. I currently drive a 1996 Jeep I turned into a crawler and haven't been to a mechanic in 20 years.

*Not a teenager looking for a car that he thinks is cool*

I used to fix up old XJ's and flip them for some context. I want an expedition rig for exploring remote deserts in the Southwest and my biggest concern is reliability. Do these engines reach an age where they just throw rods? Do the transmissions start slipping at a certain mileage? I can replace a broken axle out by Capital Reef, but I can't fit a spare transmission in the back with my overlanding gear. Lower mileage Land Cruisers are out of my budget so my other option is just to build up a different XJ, only problem is a) they're 1/4 ton unibodies, and 2) cargo capacity is smaller than I'd like.
Ahh we fell for it jeep guy trolling pretty sure we are all done now..
 
If a rig has ever spent time in SC, NC or VA there is a good chance that it's been driven on the beach. Which is the absolute worst for rust formation, IMO.

Having spent ~3 years in the Carolinas, mostly South, it looks like my 80 abhorred the beach. :D
 
Most of the LX450 I'm looking at looks just as rust free as these photos. I'm not going to drive 2 hours just to take photos to post on here though. If I was asking about a vehicle I already owned then yeah, absolutely I would step into my driveway and snap a few.
So you drove 2 hours to look at a cruiser and you failed to take any pictures. :zilla:
 
I don't see how engine work would set me back 3-10k and rust another 10k. I'm not paying anyone to do this work for me. An engine rebuild kit is $900, and I'm guessing the machine work would set me back another ~1k.

Show me an engine rebuild kit for $900 that includes everything you'll need for a 375k mile engine.
The last engine refresh I did, I put about $1500 in parts. (Aftermarket VRS gasket kit, a bunch of oem sensors that were broken or dilapidated. No bearings, rings etc)

I've done this more than once. Start adding things like timing chain guides, timing chain, new bearings, rings, oil pump etc etc you're inby multiples of $900.
This does not even cover any machining, any head or valve work beyond new gaskets and seals.

There's 100% gonna be stuff that needs replacing that won't be in a kit if you tear down a 30 year old, 375k mile engine.

You clearly have some previous wrenching and build experience. I think you're a little naive or deluded on the cost of refreshing the engine in oneiof these, let alone a rebuild that requires machining.
If I'm wrong, then don't let my experience hold you back.

There was another recent thread discussing rebuilding a 1fz-fe, and the comment was made that buying a new OEM short block is considered cheaper than a rebuild with machining. Short blocks, last I saw were about $4500 USD in USA
 
I don't do rust, rust adjacent, rust curious, identifies as iron oxide, corrosion etc etc . . .



:flipoff2:

Let's have an 80 rust-off :flipoff2:

And a $900 1FZ-FE rebuild kit? Like maybe the gasket kit and a T rubbed off Aisin timing chain cover... LMAO
 
Let's have an 80 rust-off :flipoff2:

And a $900 1FZ-FE rebuild kit? Like maybe the gasket kit and a T rubbed off Aisin timing chain cover... LMAO

What's it missing?
 
So you drove 2 hours to look at a cruiser and you failed to take any pictures. :zilla:
Yes. 1 hour each way and I took my dog for a hike while I was out. I'm not a forum person. I don't usually bother taking pictures to show people. Didn't really see the point I guess.
 
I don't do rust, rust adjacent, rust curious, identifies as iron oxide, corrosion etc etc . . .



:flipoff2:
I don't date women with freckles, any moles, signs of body hair or a need to wear deodorant, have cooties, or are otherwise "icky". I've been holding out for Scarlet Johansson since the first Avengers movie came out and I think I'm getting close to getting her to notice my Twitter account :grinpimp:
 
Yes. 1 hour each way and I took my dog for a hike while I was out. I'm not a forum person. I don't usually bother taking pictures to show people. Didn't really see the point I guess.
But you don't mind asking questions about said Cruiser.

Where pretty helpfully here but we don't have a crystal ball and we don't do Heeps

I'm DONE
 

What's it missing?

Screenshot 2023-06-12 at 5.08.58 PM.png
 
Yes. 1 hour each way and I took my dog for a hike while I was out. I'm not a forum person. I don't usually bother taking pictures to show people. Didn't really see the point I guess.
You are asking our opinion on a vehicle you might buy…pictures would be good whether you see the point or not.

I’m joining @Broski
 

What's it missing?

Well, you got me there!

It actually looks to be pretty compete. They don't give a full list of included parts.
However, there'll still be other parts you'll likely need.

- No oil pump o ring seal. Common leak
- Distributor shaft oring? Common leak
- No head bolts. Torque to yield, chances are many won't be reusable.
- No rod bolts. Single use
- No main bolts
- new o-ring for power steering pump
- new injector wiring harness clips
- other harness connectors. (These are getting brittle, and chances are, you'll break some)
- new sensors (These are getting brittle, and chances are, you'll break some)

Then there's while you're in there stuff
- all water and vacuum hoses
- Alternator adjustment bolts. I've snapped or stripped these on every cruiser I've owned, they never get any love
- dizzy cap, rotor, plug leads
Harmonic balancer (30 year old rubber will be rock hard, if not cracked)

Some of this you can probably skip, and there'll be other things you won't be able to dodge.
Things like crumbling knock sensors, or oil level sender, temp sensors etc all add up fast.
Some are highly recommended to stick with oem to avoid problematic fault finding down the track. Oem means you pay the Toyota tax
 

What's it missing?

Reviews that vouch for the quality.

Looks like mostly Japanese made which is a good start.

You'll find there's a large number of people who will religiously stick to oem genuine parts for these.
For a lot of stuff, this is warranted by group experience. Some things not so critical.
 
OEM TOYOTA QUALITY
But you don't mind asking questions about said Cruiser.

Where pretty helpfully here but we don't have a crystal ball and we don't do Heeps

I'm DONE
DONE, as in done with your Chardonnay? Do LC guys actually look down on Jeep guys? I'm not brand loyal and drove a Tacoma for 12 years before it got wrecked. I like Toyotas just as much as I like older Jeeps with the I6. If it bothers people I won't ask anymore questions though.
 
I only read the 1st page of posts. But with that many miles and rust issues for that price I would run away.

Give me 18k and you can have my 97 with 150,000 miles. It's painted in bed liner and dented but rust free.
 
I don't date women with freckles, any moles, signs of body hair or a need to wear deodorant, have cooties, or are otherwise "icky". I've been holding out for Scarlet Johansson since the first Avengers movie came out and I think I'm getting close to getting her to notice my Twitter account :grinpimp:

So, you're delusions go way beyond vehicles I see!

:flipoff2:




There's loads of threads where people come and ask advice on should I buy this cruiser or that.
Many are totally clueless about vehicles in general. And go into buying them with rise coloured glasses on.

80s and landcruisers in general are not cheap one way or another.

If you have to pay someone to repair or maintain them they can bleed you dry!
finding a shop that's good solid knowledge on them is a whole other ordeal.

If you're capable of wrenching on it yourself, and buy with eyes wide open, they are tough and reliable, good to work on, and fun to drive. You might even manage to redeem your man card if you steer away from Heeps :hillbilly:

Oh, and there's a right knit group here in mud. They'll give you flak, and also bend over backwards to help, online and on the trail, or in other ways, but ya gotta be willing to help yourself too. The more info you can give with questions, the more help you'll get.

There's no issue with these trucks that hasn't been figured out at some point in the last 30 years.
And there's countless inane questions (should i buy this truck, his much is this 80 worth, should i buy triple locked, and how long is a piece of string) that are repeated daily.
 
Do LC guys actually look down on Jeep guys?
:facepalm: Only when they're talking smack from the men's bath.

I think the issue is you're asking questions about a truck you don't (yet) own. As such it's really just a bunch of theory till you get it (or another) and start digging in.
Just know that:
Engine rebuild will be at least $5k
Tranny rebuild at least $4.5k
Drive line refresh at least $1.5k

But it's all relative isn't it? You won't come into a turnkey 80 for less than half what one would pay for a new Rubi. And the longevity on the Rubi still has a couple decades to prove itself compared to an 80.

So I still say, and I may be one of the fewer who do say, that even at $20k+ that I have in my rig it's still less expensive long term...and I'm not giving up one iota of offroad capability w/a 3xl 80. OEM or otherwise.
 

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