370,000 Miles...Too Many? (1 Viewer)

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...It has some rust above the windshield and behind the rear tires. There’s actually some rust-through behind the passenger front tire by the exhaust that needs a patch. A little rust on the tailgate. They salt the roads here so I’m not surprised tbh. The rest is pretty rust free.
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3) It's not a rust bucket with rusty fasteners. The entire suspension has already been removed and replaced. It has a 4" Ironman lift with Ironman trackbars and Fox shocks. The frame is pure black with original chassis paint, not rust colored. I passed up 5 rust bucket 2nd get Tacomas before I started looking at 80 series cruisers. Now those things are nearly all rusty junk out here even though they cost more :censor:. I'm talking badly rusted frames, chunks falling off when you poke them with your finger, holes you can see through, in need of a whole new frame and not worth fixing the existing one.
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If there is body perforation, the frame cannot possibly be "pure black with original chassis paint."

What you're writing fundamentally doesn't make any sense.

Post pictures for us to ogle or just go ahead with the buy, since that's what you're going to do anyway.
 
If there is body perforation, the frame cannot possibly be "pure black with original chassis paint."

What you're writing fundamentally doesn't make any sense.

Post pictures for us to ogle or just go ahead with the buy, since that's what you're going to do anyway.
This happens all the time with should I buy this landcruiser
 
Some of y’all should take a pause before typing about rust and no rust as if it’s a binary thing. It’s about varying levels of rust and your risk tolerance for it.

Rust's happy place are often in areas where the eyes can't detect it because it's in the dark spaces where moisture gets trapped. I've personally witnessed so called "rust free" SoCal 80s with pretty debilitating front glass frame rust because some idiot windshield installer went at the gasket with a butcher knife. Same goes for the rear glass and even the area by the hatch, again, where water/salt collects. I've personally remediated the rear hatch spoiler rust and most likely have something going on with the factory roof rail which I'll get to whenever I get to it. I can't see it atm, but there's probably some ugly there.

Yet many lazies will look at my truck and think it's a rust-free Whole Foods museum piece when it's not (Seattle/Carolinas/SoCal '97).

Carry on!

IMG_2262.jpeg
 
Some of y’all should take a pause before typing about rust and no rust as if it’s a binary thing. It’s about varying levels of rust and your risk tolerance for it.

Rust's happy place are often in areas where the eyes can't detect it because it's in the dark spaces where moisture gets trapped. I've personally witnessed so called "rust free" SoCal 80s with pretty debilitating front glass frame rust because some idiot windshield installer went at the gasket with a butcher knife. Same goes for the rear glass and even the area by the hatch, again, where water/salt collects. I've personally remediated the rear hatch spoiler rust and most likely have something going on with the factory roof rail which I'll get to whenever I get to it. I can't see it atm, but there's probably some ugly there.

Yet many lazies will look at my truck and think it's a rust-free museum piece when it's not (Seattle/Carolinas/SoCal '97).

Carry on!
Is this your 80 that's being talked about? Seem a little but hurt for no reason
 
At this point op seems aa if he has talked himself into buying this rig .
I haven't. I'm kinda scared to spend the money tbh. 10k is a lot for me and I don't want to be SOL if I ever need to sell it. I was hoping there would be a resounding "yes, buy it" or "no, here's why". The "why" part is what has me scratching my head. COYS' description of rust tolerance makes the most sense out of all the rust comments. Most people would only notice rust on the lift gate on this thing and say "eh, it's just one little spot". The rest of the rust is harder to notice and you have to know where to look. I used to live in CA and saw plenty of rust on vehicles that would have looked 100% rust-free to the average buyer.
 
Rust free is rust free is rust free.
After that, it's varying degrees of rust.

Since we're entering the post-pics-of-urelated-rigs-since-the-OP-wont phase of this thread, here's my RUST FREE '95 Taco.
She came out of Northern Nevada five yrs ago. Not all 1st Gen Tacos are trashed out.
20220227_104911.jpg


Original frame sticker. And above the rear wheels where they all need patching.
20220227_104947.jpg

20220227_105012.jpg


You don't HAVE TO buy rust. I won't. But I know that others have more tolerance for it.

If a rig has ever spent time in SC, NC or VA there is a good chance that it's been driven on the beach. Which is the absolute worst for rust formation, IMO.

Rust on the upper hatch of an 80 is unfortunately very common. The moisture can get in there from the deflector and the release handle. When I'm shopping, I always ask for a photo of the release handle area. It's a good tell tale. In the absence of firsthand inspection.

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If anyone can explain how the lower body of an 80 can have rust perforation, yet show now signs of rust on the frame, I'd be much appreciative.
 
Rust free is rust free is rust free.
After that, it's varying degrees of rust.

Since we're entering the post-pics-of-urelated-rigs-since-the-OP-wont phase of this thread, here's my RUST FREE '95 Taco.
She came out of Northern Nevada five yrs ago. Not all 1st Gen Tacos are trashed out.
View attachment 3347436

Original frame sticker. And above the rear wheels where they all need patching.
View attachment 3347441
View attachment 3347443

You don't HAVE TO buy rust. I won't. But I know that others have more tolerance for it.

If a rig has ever spent time in SC, NC or VA there is a good chance that it's been driven on the beach. Which is the absolute worst for rust formation, IMO.

Rust on the upper hatch of an 80 is unfortunately very common. The moisture can get in there from the deflector and the release handle. When I'm shopping, I always ask for a photo of the release handle area. It's a good tell tale. In the absence of firsthand inspection.

--------------------------------------

If anyone can explain how the lower body of an 80 can have rust perforation, yet show now signs of rust on the frame, I'd be much appreciative.
I live 15 minutes from the beach here in NC rust free is hard to come by and I've seen tacos with said frame rust kinda horrifying
 
Not trying to scare anyone, just let you know what you may be getting into. You have a lot of knowledge and will wrench on it yourself so yes, savings there. and if you will fab and/or use aftermarket products you will save money there. When I rebuilt mine, I pulled and sent to a machine shop for heads and block. If I had to do it all over again, I would just buy new short block and heads (financially in a much better place today). The "while you are in there" stuff, and being anal, caused the bill to creep quite a bit as it was easier to basically replace darn near everything when it was out than to try to wrench on it while it was in there.

80s tend to have a bit of sticker shock for parts. Not alot of these were sold here in the US and, it is a luxury vehicle.

For resale, at 350 plus K. I think most people would be scared stiff of buying something with that many miles. Obviously depends on the person but fewer people out there willing to buy a vehicle with that kind of mileage than one with 200k on it. So the pool of people rapidly starts to shrink. For me, I know I will never sell mine so mileage is unimportant. When I kick the bucket my kids are already fighting over who gets the beast. They aren't selling it either. If you are the type who wants to have it a few years, gets tired of it and wants to sell it later, this may be a hard one for you. But, if you are holding on to it, know the history, and like to wrench yourself, go for it! These are awesome vehicles...
 
Rust free is rust free is rust free.
After that, it's varying degrees of rust.

Since we're entering the post-pics-of-urelated-rigs-since-the-OP-wont phase of this thread, here's my RUST FREE '95 Taco.
She came out of Northern Nevada five yrs ago. Not all 1st Gen Tacos are trashed out.
View attachment 3347436

Original frame sticker. And above the rear wheels where they all need patching.
View attachment 3347441
View attachment 3347443

You don't HAVE TO buy rust. I won't. But I know that others have more tolerance for it.

If a rig has ever spent time in SC, NC or VA there is a good chance that it's been driven on the beach. Which is the absolute worst for rust formation, IMO.

Rust on the upper hatch of an 80 is unfortunately very common. The moisture can get in there from the deflector and the release handle. When I'm shopping, I always ask for a photo of the release handle area. It's a good tell tale. In the absence of firsthand inspection.

--------------------------------------

If anyone can explain how the lower body of an 80 can have rust perforation, yet show now signs of rust on the frame, I'd be much appreciative.
Most of the LX450 I'm looking at looks just as rust free as these photos. I'm not going to drive 2 hours just to take photos to post on here though. If I was asking about a vehicle I already owned then yeah, absolutely I would step into my driveway and snap a few.
 
Most of the LX450 I'm looking at looks just as rust free as these photos. I'm not going to drive 2 hours just to take photos to post on here though. If I was asking about a vehicle I already owned then yeah, absolutely I would step into my driveway and snap a few.

You've described the 80 in question as having rust-through in the floor and rust behind the wheels.
And then you look at pics of a pristine (PRISTINE!) first year Taco and say they're the same.

Good grief. Shame on me. I fell for the troll.

Carry on.
 
So just get it and we will help you spend your money 😉
There ya go!

It's relatively cheap for a built 80, which is what you're looking for. Just because none of us would buy it given your description shouldn't dissuade you. :cheers:
 
You've described the 80 in question as having rust-through in the floor and rust behind the wheels.
And then you look at pics of a pristine (PRISTINE!) first year Taco and say they're the same.

Good grief. Shame on me. I fell for the troll.

Carry on.
I feel like you must live in a very different climate or haven’t spent much time in junkyards. I usually see rust that is localized and the rest of the vehicle is fine. A few small holes in a floorboard while the rest is mostly rust-free is common here. I have a friend with a rust hole in the rear fender you can put a hand through but the rest isn’t rusty.

Sometimes vehicles do get completely rusted out here but not usually. I’ve ordered parts from the salt belt and they definitely get a different level of rust.

The rust behind the wheels is only visible if you crawl underneath and look up with a flashlight. I only found the rust because I know where to look. It’s not visible from the side.

I’ve owned about 15 old 4wd’s and I’ve crawled under hundreds at the junkyard. If you have too, then I’m guessing we just live in very different climates.
 
And, just to share, this is my son's 2002 Taco that we are still working on. We bought it from, and no I am not kidding, a little old lady from Sun City three years ago. 105k miles on it and she was the only owner. Body has a few more door dings on it than I would like but, not a spec of rust and it was religiously serviced by Toyota. She even bought the tires from the dealer.

I have threatened him, he is not ever allowed to sell it. If he needs to sell it, I will buy it from him. It is in that good of mechanical condition and, I have always regretted selling my 86 pickup. I won't let him make the same mistake.
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