2F Rebuild - First Timer (1 Viewer)

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Locktite 2071 is not the same as 271. 290 is not the right stuff either.

271 is also known as "red" locktite. 272 is the higher temperature version of 271. All auto parts stores I have done business with have 271.

Pin_Head Thanks for answering my loctite question. Your making this very hard. I went to the loctite agent/distributor and he didn't have 271 or 272.

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These are all the products they bring stock.

I'll keep searching and leave that to the end.

Thanks again
 
Locktite 2071 is not the same as 271. 290 is not the right stuff either.

271 is also known as "red" locktite. 272 is the higher temperature version of 271. All auto parts stores I have done business with have 271.

I'll call Henkel UAE office and see if they have any.
 
If all you can get is 2701, then that is the best you can do. It is a high strength, permanent thread locker, but its service temperature limit is 150C. 271 is good to 180C while 272 is good to 300C
 
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If all you can get is 2701, then that is the best you can do. It is a high strength, permanent thread locker, but its service temperature limit is 150C. 271 is good to 180C while 272 is good to 300F.


Thanks. Problem is that it's the weekend in the region. Will call UAE tomorrow to find out if they even bring that specific product to the region.

Could always order it online but that means waiting 6 to 12 days depending on weather and flights.

Will see. Thanks again
 
If all you can get is 2701, then that is the best you can do. It is a high strength, permanent thread locker, but its service temperature limit is 150C. 271 is good to 180C while 272 is good to 300C


How about 270 ?

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That's as close I can get haha. Called my machine shop and he told me to go to shop that had a red Loctite that he would buy a few drops of for a few bolts. So went along and the salesman said they did in the past but not anymore because it's expensive and people are not buying.


At another store found this Permatex. Have you used this before ?

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And another store found this. What about this BTS stuff ?

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Any good ?

Thanks
 
If all you can get is 2701, then that is the best you can do. It is a high strength, permanent thread locker, but its service temperature limit is 150C. 271 is good to 180C while 272 is good to 300C


Called a supplier I recently got some things from who carry a German brand called Weicon. Asked about 272 and he said they carry something very similar.

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It's high strength high temp and it's red.

Will go collect a bottle this afternoon.

A word of advice guys for those thinking about replacing the galley plug with a threaded plug. Don't do it until you get all the solutions ready for plugging it up.

I'm running around like a headless chicken with a bad feeling that I've created a weak spot in the block.

Regards
 
Came across this sheet which cross checks a lot of thread lock brands against the loctite lineup.

Very helpful.

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http://www.cj.lv/faili/cross-check table.pdf

Will take this with me this afternoon to the weicon agent to make sure we get the equivalent to loctite 271 as that is clearly indicated. And will see what he says about the 272. Then I will close this chapter once and for all.

And continue with the build.

Talk about a crash course in thread lockers.

Fa*€€%%%*!£k
 
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Who knew that there were that many different thread lockers? I think you have the job done and the issue settled.

Yah there are more than just loctite in this world. You guys are spoilt with availability and choice in the states.

Thanks for your help. That was a nightmare. I don't mind looking for things but not in this city. Everything is either past the sell by date or non existent.

Yes that chapter is closed. Well sorted.

Thanks again Pin_Head your a star
 
Ok on to the next issue I'm having.

After torquing yesterday the caps on the crankshaft into place and the Pistons on to their connecting rods. I woke up today feeling that we didn't do it right. The Pistons where not sitting center on the connecting rods. So needed to fix that.

So was chatting to the resident and he had some reservations on the amount of black sealant we put under the end bearing caps.

Then I realised after looking for a better picture of the sealant position in the Haynes manual that the FSM has two torque reading and the Haynes only has one number which is in the middle of the two numbers of the FSM.

Which to follow ? The lower or higher number from the FSM or the single number in the Haynes.

Your help as usual would be a life saver as we have dismantled everything to make correct.

This is a picture of us correcting the piston in the pin issue. Now it's all balanced. This was the best way for us to balance it using the gauges and fingers to feel for any difference. Is there a better way ?

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But once I get the torque answer I will have to re torque them. No issues I want this to be as perfect as can be.

Over to you.
 
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Will wake up tomorrow and restart the assembly.

I'll go through the plasti gage again as it's an opportunity to do it again and do it correct. Seeing that the plasti gage is old I'll hope the new stick I use will give better results.

This is a learning so I want to learn.

It will be the third time I start the assembly. Then to take a step back to check that I've done the correct thing and found out I could have done a better job.

So no harm in admitting a f up.

So now I know how to torque correctly the rest should be a breeze :p
 
Did not get jack done today. Got busy. Will proceed tomorrow.
 
Have been busy. Will get starred once I free up some time. Hopefully in the next day or two.

I need to finish this build before it becomes a nag and while I still have the drive to get it done.
 
Excuses, excuses! I need more pics of brand new 2F engine parts being assembled. =)

All kidding aside, glad to see you taking the time to figure things out and do it right. Take your time and don't rush through things you aren't sure of... you want this 2F running like a champ when finished.
 

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