2F Rebuild - First Timer (1 Viewer)

Arabian Cruiser

Arabian Cruisers
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
712
Location
Dubai, UAE
Hi Cruisers,

This is my first full build thread.

Will do my best to keep it educational for first timers like me, full of pictures for those who cant or wont read and and i plan on doing this by the end of the month.

I will not be doing this alone as it turns out that the :princess: 's driver ( yes she has a driver , we live in saudi) is a mechanic. He worked on big trucks all his life. so he will be my hands on guide. I plan on doing all the wrenching my self.

I have had a 2F laying around for some time now and was thinking of trading it in for some other parts that i want from the junk yard like a H55 - 5 speed gear box for my 1982 FJ 40 and some locked 80 axles for the FZJ80.

I got this 2F from a late model FJ45 pick up that has an LS1 engine now. I was with the PO when he bought the rig but never saw him driving the FJ 45 with the 2F in it. Cant ask him about it either as he has blocked me on instagram and left our FJ40 whats app group :poof: for some reason. It seems i have pissed him off again.

Anyway, I dont know what condition its in but i am sure it could do with a lot of TLC. I also got a bunch of other things from the FJ 45 like a 4 speed gear box, SS headers, aftermarket radiator which have already been used on my the 1982 FJ40 LX 'Lexy', weber carb which is in the 1982 Beige FJ43 'Sandy' and some other bits and bobs that i will use or trade in.

I plan on opening the 2F up and carrying out a complete engine tear down and rebuild. I have ordered a basic rebuild kit that has all the gaskets. As there was no real reason to tear her down expect to learn, i will order parts and get it machined on a 'need to get/do basis.'

The aim of this exercise is to learn how to do a complete rebuild and to have a nice clean rebuilt engine to drop into my 1982 pearly white FJ 40 'Pearly' when i'm done. My mounted 2F has seen better days and will eventually need a rebuild. There is a ticking noise from one of the push rods which keeps coming back after so many attempts to fix it. :bang: and power is not like it was when i first got her and before all the modifications.

Here is a picture of the engine sitting on a trolly waiting to be mounted onto the stand.

I will borrow a engine crane from boozewz who has recently got a new one :santa:

But before i do that i need to go find out where the stand bolts into the engine o_O as this is my first rebuild project :).

First request for advice is where do I mount it ? on the side, or as I have seen most people mount it on the end ? do i remove the clutch housing first ? or mount it from the other end ?

Any and all help will be appreciated.


Thanks

Mcladin


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Last edited:
Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Messages
498
Location
Hanover, Virginia
Always attach the back of the engine to the engine stand. Remove the bell housing and flywheel. Bolt to the stand. now you can spin it upside down to do the crank and spin it right side up for the head work.
 

Arabian Cruiser

Arabian Cruisers
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
712
Location
Dubai, UAE
Always attach the back of the engine to the engine stand. Remove the bell housing and flywheel. Bolt to the stand. now you can spin it upside down to do the crank and spin it right side up for the head work.

Thanks Jafo2014. That sound pretty straight forward. It's the only thing the Haynes manual does not address.
 
Joined
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Messages
498
Location
Hanover, Virginia
Rebuilding an engine is not rocket science. I have installed many a crank set and done total rebuilds. Just takes attention to details. Keep all the bolts organized as you remove things. I typically put them into a zip-lok bag and write on it with felt marker. Take pictures. Make sure to follow torque specs when putting things back. I plasti-gauge the main bearings even when I have purchased a crank kit so I know the tolerances of the bearings to crank. Takes a little more time to torque on the bearing caps, then remove them and check the gauge, but you know that the clearance is so many thousandths, so it is piece of mind.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Hanover, Virginia
Rebuilding an engine is actually much fun. Just need to take your time. Use good parts. Clean everything. Torque all the bolts to spec. Prime the engine with oil before starting. In the case of the 2F, I think you can just put a flat bladed shaft onto a drill and stick it into the slot where the distributor sets and spin the oil pump to prime it.
 

Arabian Cruiser

Arabian Cruisers
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
712
Location
Dubai, UAE
Rebuilding an engine is actually much fun. Just need to take your time. Use good parts. Clean everything. Torque all the bolts to spec. Prime the engine with oil before starting. In the case of the 2F, I think you can just put a flat bladed shaft onto a drill and stick it into the slot where the distributor sets and spin the oil pump to prime it.

From your experience are there any special tools I need to get before I start ?
 
Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Messages
498
Location
Hanover, Virginia
Mostly standard hand tools required. Sockets, wrenches for dis-assembly. Special tools would be a Torque wrench for assembly. Hone to hone the piston cylinders if they are not honed in a shop. Piston ring compressor is very helpful. If you are doing the head you'd need a valve spring compressor. Probably best to let a machine shop do the valve work and then you install the head. I'll ponder.
 

Arabian Cruiser

Arabian Cruisers
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
712
Location
Dubai, UAE
[Q UOTE="JAFO2014, post: 9528815, member: 98235"]NEVER use a torque wrench to undo something. Damage the tool. It is for tightening.[/QUOTE]

I do sound like I'm fresh of the boat. But i do know how to swim : )



'80 FJ 43
'82 FJ 40
'82 FJ 40 LX
'96 FZJ 80
 

Arabian Cruiser

Arabian Cruisers
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
712
Location
Dubai, UAE
Mostly standard hand tools required. Sockets, wrenches for dis-assembly. Special tools would be a Torque wrench for assembly. Hone to hone the piston cylinders if they are not honed in a shop. Piston ring compressor is very helpful. If you are doing the head you'd need a valve spring compressor. Probably best to let a machine shop do the valve work and then you install the head. I'll ponder.


I would rather do everything at home. I'll buy them as I plan on rebuilding another 2f engine. Looks like I'm going to sell the third engine to finance the second rebuild.

Thanks for your guidance.


'80 FJ 43
'82 FJ 40
'82 FJ 40 LX
'96 FZJ 80
 

Arabian Cruiser

Arabian Cruisers
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
712
Location
Dubai, UAE
Good day Cruisers,

So I went out today to take pictures of the 2f engine just for records sake and to have a before and after reference on what everything looked like.

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1420717113.897087.jpg
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ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1420717200.400323.jpg
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1420717213.234194.jpg
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1420717226.818545.jpg


Also collected the rebuild kit. Picture uploading shortly.
 

Arabian Cruiser

Arabian Cruisers
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
712
Location
Dubai, UAE
Ok here is the box I recieved today from toyota parts.

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1420718009.138546.jpg
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1420718021.771549.jpg
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1420718034.856340.jpg
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1420718048.957021.jpg
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1420718063.240574.jpg


So far that's all I have done today.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Messages
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Location
Mason, Texas
Subscribed. Great timing! I'm about to do the same thing in April with a 79 2F using a 74 1.5F head. Thanks for the thread!!!

:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
 
Joined
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Messages
11,701
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down in a hole.
there are 2 bolts on the bottom rim of the block behind the oil cooler. they secure the oil pump mounting boss to the inside rim of the block. this block was aligned at factory to allow the diz shaft to enter/exit as need be. if you break those bolts loose, you will have to realign the mounting block or you will not be able to install or remove your diz...have the oil gally plug on the head by the #4 spark plug get drilled out, tapped and plugged with a threaded plug...
 

Arabian Cruiser

Arabian Cruisers
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
712
Location
Dubai, UAE
there are 2 bolts on the bottom rim of the block behind the oil cooler. they secure the oil pump mounting boss to the inside rim of the block. this block was aligned at factory to allow the diz shaft to enter/exit as need be. if you break those bolts loose, you will have to realign the mounting block or you will not be able to install or remove your diz...have the oil gally plug on the head by the #4 spark plug get drilled out, tapped and plugged with a threaded plug...

Ok
 

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