2F Oil Loss (1 Viewer)

[love2fly]

It kind of sucks to see a tool that has been by your side when doing the big nasty work but thats the way it goes.
I have an air ratchet 1/2" drive gun I tried but my home little compressor was only putting out 80 psi so tomorrow I will go get my larger air compressor and see if that will break it loose, and I will bring my map gas torch home to and heat it up some before attempting again.
Looking around at some of the BB around the 24"-30" size and most all seem not to say much in there warranty. The made in china syndrome.
Will post what I find when I get that crank bolt off - Thanks guys

 

[fjc-man]

What are you doing to counter or should I say, hold the crankshaft while trying to loosen the bolt?

 

[Chungas Revenge]

I think my BB was a NAPA purchase. A bit “spendy” but it’s been a beast. It’s tucked away in storage, if you like I’ll grab better pics.

 

[Green Bean]

In terms of impact drivers, I’ve been pleased with the Dewalt 1/2” drive 20V, 5AH, cordless. It has a very significant amount of torque.

 

[love2fly]

To counter the rotation I have always put the trans in 4th, put it in Hi 4x4 with the hubs locked and blocked any one of the tires/wheels. The started bump method I have used before as for this time but I lost that battle.
Yeah I am thinking a 25" or 30" long breaker that has some girth to it would be a good replacement. The one that broke I think was only 18" long, but always did fine with an extension tube attached.
I'm thinking my impact maybe to wimpy even with a better compressor.
I will try the heat trick and impact first then the breaker bar.

Cheers

 

[fjc-man]

If could get your hands on one, rent, buy, borrow, a torque multiplier it would make breaking that loose easy.

 

[love2fly]

Guys this nut is a B----. my new BB is well built but it has a flex going to it were we might break this one. Just not budging.
A friend and I are now heating it up, and spraying with liquid wrench, waiting about five minutes and then putting ice water on it and still will not brake loose, even put the impact wrench with 125 psi and still no go.
Not sure were to find a torque multiplier, I can maybe check the auto parts and see if they rent them but for $300 not an option.
Cheers

 

[love2fly]

Well as I have night duty I am going to give this up for a day or two as this has kicked my ----. Just got back from a local pawn shop were I bought another heavy duty breaker bar with an extension making it around four foot long and put it on the crank bolt and pretty much put all my weight on it an it did not even budge.
Called a my old patrol buddy who now works on farm and ranch machinery and told him the problem and he may come over on Monday with his 1,000 torque ratchet air gun if I cannot break it loose soon.
I appropriate you guys with your help and input.
Cheers

 

[Mark Jennings]

Don’t break the crank shaft! And if you use heat, be cautious of the harmonic balancer rubber ring.

Well as I have night duty I am going to give this up for a day or two as this has kicked my ----. Just got back from a local pawn shop were I bought another heavy duty breaker bar with an extension making it around four foot long and put it on the crank bolt and pretty much put all my weight on it an it did not even budge.
Called a my old patrol buddy who now works on farm and ranch machinery and told him the problem and he may come over on Monday with his 1,000 torque ratchet air gun if I cannot break it loose soon.
I appropriate you guys with your help and input.
Cheers

View attachment 3559561

 

[fjwagon]

I had situation like this once....I think it was on a Honda Civic and for the life of me I could not loosen the harmonic balancer nut. It's not like you can smack it with a BFH so I just used PB BLaster and an air impact. After 3 hours of messing with it I gave up. I dread the next morning....so I thought...it came off like nothing. Soaking it PB and the vibration of the impact the day after helped the nut coming off easier. On stuff like this i try soaking it several times a day for a couple of days and maybe it may come off easier. I sometimes will smack it wit BFH and punch(not the pointy kind) if there is not flat spot on nut you can easily get a solid hit. I hope it's just the rust that is the glue that is keeping it stuck in place. Don't hit too hard but enough for vibrations do its work. Keep trying is all you can do.

 

[love2fly]

Mark, you mentioned -breaking the shaft and the rubber separation in the balancer - both I knew about but the amount of foot pounds that is being applied is concerning, over 300 lbs.
This is not good for the push rods, lifters or any part of the system. I'm pretty sure that its not wise to even put a 1,000 torque HD air ratchet on the end let alone if there is even and room to get it in the area to work. I think I am going to take a trip back to the engine shop and get an idea what they suggest would be the next step and if needed trailer it to them.
fjwagon, the can of liquid wrench in one of the pictures was full at the start of all this, it is 3/4 empty now, pretty well soaked with light heating (with industrial heat gun) and squirting then cooling to draw the fluid in and around the threads. You mentioned, "I dread the next morning" that is so true, but you got lucky, I'm on the third day now maybe I will get lucky. We all know that things like this end sooner or later but I want this story to end like yours did.
Frustrated but flying the course,
cheers.

 

[3_puppies]

usually my 1/2" air gun will remove the crank nut without issue
I had a spare engine a few years ago I ended up using my 3/4 gun on it to break the nut free

 

[Mark Jennings]

I wouldn’t worry about lower end components (connecting rods, bearings) or cam, lifter components…..it’s the threaded stub at the end of the crank shaft….if you break that stub, your into an engine pull and crankshaft replacement.

I don’t think I would use constant torque, e.g. a torque multiplier with continuous force to bust that nut loose, I’d be more inclined to impact it off….you may need to find a local shop with a 3/4 or 1” drive impact….a commercial truck shop comes to mind….
Then there are old fashioned slugging wrenches and a BFH…..

Also, the F engine, the 3.9L engines use a press on balancer, and they have there own issues in getting them off….I've broken several pullers fussing with those in the past…..to the point of cutting the balancer off with a grinder….and sourcing a new one.

 

[love2fly]

When leaning in or pulling on the bar and feeling the amount of torque going into that, I have visualized what can happen to the end of the crank with two much torque applied, that snap sound or falling backwards with a breaker bar and socket with the nut and treads of the crank. I know the cranks break as I saw one years ago on a FJ40 were they did the starter bump method that ended with exactly as I described above.
I'm going to cancel my friends visit with the large impact wrench that puts out 1,000 foot pounds of torque, for now.
My impact wrench is only putting out a max of 300 foot pounds of torque and it was used when got it. One that has 400-450 with a good clutch might be the way to go along with a 3/4" dive as 3-puppies said.
I will make a mixture of acetone and power steering or break fluid and wet as much s possible on the inside of the nut since it is hollow in the center let that sit for a while then put the industrial heat gun on the front of the nut for about five minuets then apply more of the mixture when semi cool and give it a few hours.
I know that no thread lock was ever put on the nut or CS end so I am at a loss why this thing is doing this.

Cheers

 

[love2fly]

Okay tiring to sound calm and cool, witch is pretty hard to do because I am so relived that the pulley is OFF yes off.
As they say the right tool for the right job, I guess my 300 foot pond impact wrench is worn out. At the engine shop they put it on a torque meter to check the output, 150 foot pounds, so a new impact from HF for $150 rated at 1500 max foot pounds did the job.
You guys are right a impact wrench is what is needed and one thats not worn out like mine. The shop owner said I probably could of gotten the nut off with the 300fp if working @ 300fp. He also said that breaker bars are okay for some engines he recommends to never use one if possible, mostly to the danger of accidents, damage to the equipment or ones self.
Rust is the culprit, I should of not wiped the rust off before the picture but is was fairly caked on the surface of the nut. With a little clean up we should be good.
I am out of time for the day but I will be picking this up latter and I can get back to the PVC after the new seal.
One relived owner.

Cheers

 

[pb4ugo]

PCV, Positive Crankcase Ventilation

 

[Mark Jennings]

Cool beans, Persistence Pays….so when it goes back together, paint the threads, the shaft and the balancer hole with never-seize. If you do her again…or as a favor to the next owner, it’ll make the job much easier! And there’s always a next time (lol)

 

[Steamer]

Late to this thread but anyway, heres how I hold back at the flywheel when loosening or tightening the crank nut. 7/16" bolt fits pretty good.
I also use it to rotate the engine.

 

[love2fly]

That would defiantly work for a breaker bar and clutch work but am now true believer in the power of the impact wrench but I may use this to lock the flywheel when installing the nut.
As for the installing of the cover I have been looking at the plate behind the gears and condescending maybe replacing the gasket. But if its not seeping maybe I should leave it alone. Also for the bolt sequence found in my 1980 2F manual the bolt type and size I have on hand do not match what is shown.
Will check the hole depth and see what would be correct maybe that will tell me something.

Cheers

 

[Steamer]

When you change your seal, don't do what "I DID"