2F Oil Loss (2 Viewers)

[love2fly]

Oh boy - I know about not to take out that deflector, maybe it was your post that I came across back in 2009. Even so your post may of saved a few folks from doing just that, good information, never hurts.
I have been searching for info on the star locker washer that fits behind the HB nut (13495) to see if they were used in 1982. Mine did nt have one and the manual for this years says nothing about the use of one. The PO may of removed mine and never replaced it unless they stopped using them after a certain year.
Anyone know about this?

Cheers

 

[fjc-man]

If you decide to reseal that back plate, not only will you have to remove the camshaft but also the distributor, side cover, rocker arm assembly, pushrods, lifters, oh and the valve cover.

 

[love2fly]

Yes your correct about that, at this point I am observing the lowest point of the bottom area of the timing cover. I cleaned it up as best as possible the area were the front of the oil pan sits next to the lower part of the timing seal. I was not sure if the front of the oil pan gasket was seeping or if it was the timing seal. I have turned over the engine several times to see if I can move some oil about and see if any of those areas show a sign of seeping, it may not work but worth a try before tearing into all the items needed to replace that gasket. Going to give it a few hours to let gravity do its thing. If I proceed without doing the gasket replacement I sure hope I will not regret it.
Mean time I have been flatting out the mount holes on the timing cover. I use the front windshield glass on the cruiser as it is flat as possible and found that the cover rocked a lot more than expected, after a closed bit of tapping (not hammering) around the cover it now sits on the windshield with out any movement or high spots.
I will be using Permatex aviation form-a-gasket #3 sealant on both sides of the timing cover gasket and on the two lower bolt as a thread sealant. Also plan to use the Permatex tread locker blue on all the bolts as when removing them yesterday they were most all loose. I know I torqued them before but maybe from heat and cold contraction and vibrations they loosened up in time. This surly did not help with the oil loss.

Cheers​

 

[Steamer]

The PO may of removed mine and never replaced it unless they stopped using them after a certain year.
Anyone know about this?

Don’t know if your year used a lock washer but when I replaced mine, I got it “HERE”. Other Mud vendors may carry them, but this was the only one I found posted on their web site.

 

[love2fly]

Thanks Steamer, I know that Toyota in the past failed to show parts items in listings at times and maybe this was one but I am thinking they may of done away with the star locker maybe in the 1980s. The picture is for my year and shows nothing. thank you for the lead one one if needed.

Cheers

 

[fjwagon]

Glad you got big'ol nut off. .

 

[love2fly]

Hi guys well I am finally able to install the timing cover today. I had one qestion on the bolt torque specs. My 1980 book shows two torque values as shown in the picture. My engine is a 1982 2F and has three lengths of bolts for the cover, 25 (two bottom) , 12 (four) 8 (six).
Question in the specs are all the 6mm bolts (all the 10 mm head bolts) to be 53-69 in. lb. and the two 10mm bolts (lower two) 12-17 ft lbs?
Reason is I am seeing some differences in the torque values in different years and not having a 1982 manual makes me qestion this.
I have not torqued the bolts yet as I am giving the Aviation sealant a bit of time to set up but if someone has a torque for 1982 and it is different would like to know.

Cheers

 

[1911]

... not having a 1982 manual makes me qestion this.
I have not torqued the bolts yet as I am giving the Aviation sealant a bit of time to set up but if someone has a torque for 1982 and it is different would like to know.

What year manual do you have?

I have a PDF of the 1980 manual that would surely apply to your '82 - there were few (if any) changes from 1980 to 1982.

 

[love2fly]

Its the Tan book marked 1980.


thanks

 

[fyton2v]

Hey, best of luck with this! Perhaps you already know this, but it was a giant PITA for me. When you replace the seal on the timing cover, it's a good idea to fill the back of the seal with grease. The grease will help the seal retain that little spring when you're putting the pulley back on. Otherwise, the spring can jump off and do bad things that you can't see.

 

[love2fly]

I do remember something like that, I still have time to do that as I removed the HB to be ready for the torques to be done but waiting to make sure I have the correct torques.
What kind of grease are you saying to use?


Thanks

 

[love2fly]

Well I guess I will torque the two large bolts to 12-17 Ft Lbs and the rest to 53-69 in lbs.

Cheers

 

[3_puppies]

I would install the balancer before torquing the cover bolts.
the balancer will self center the cover to itself

 

[love2fly]

Yes I had done that prior to torquing the bolts. Thanks

 

[Mark Jennings]

Hey, best of luck with this! Perhaps you already know this, but it was a giant PITA for me. When you replace the seal on the timing cover, it's a good idea to fill the back of the seal with grease. The grease will help the seal retain that little spring when you're putting the pulley back on. Otherwise, the spring can jump off and do bad things that you can't see.

Hey that’s a great ideal….my dreaded lip seal is the one between the transmission and transfer case. Grease to hold the spring in, great ideal!

 

[love2fly]

Hey guys just finished up putting it all back together but to tired now to test drive.
Will take it out for a long drive this Thursday as work is controlling things.
Can report on this later. I hope that this was on track for the loss of oil issue, more work than I needed but maybe worth the effort.
Great input and ideas from you guys and want to thank all of you and lets hope this will benefit others.

Cheers

 

[love2fly]

Well I would only think it would be fair to post what has transpired since the replacement of the timing cover gasket and the PCV system check for the loss of oil.
The Truck now has about 30-40 miles on it and so far have had no leaks around or from the new gasket area. The other is I can let the engine load up at an idle and then rev it and I am not seeing much in the way of the blue smoke, if any.
When I look back into my pictures of the engine/timing cover build I noticed in the background in a picture a tube of Red high temp silicone gasket maker. When I think back this maybe the gasket sealer I used that caused the timing cover casket seeping. I am thinking that I have had problems with this sealer before as it very slippery when applied and seems not to attache to the smooth steel face of the engine block area and is to thin.
The aviation gasket sealer #3 seems as it will not break down and is holds well to a clean steel surface being very tacky.
As for the PCV I replace the complete hose line with a new hose and that new valve. I think the valve is the trick as when compared to the others witch all look a bit different this one seems to be built much better, and it seems to be working as it should. The original valves were built like a bullet verse the new ones that seem to feel cheap.
But far so good, I will be monitoring these two areas for future problems (hope none) and most of all any oil loss.
Again thanks guys, I always tell people who I meet with a LC if they don't know already is go to Mud with your questions, someone will always help.

Cheers

 

[Rokketz]

Pull the plugs, squirt in a few cc's of Marvels in each cylinder, use the starter for like 20 seconds to distribute the oil. Clean and gap all the plugs - make sure the center electrode is square edged. Let the Marvels work on the rings for a few days. Start it up and let it idle for a few minutes to burn off the oil. Then block off most of the radiator; the goal is to get the engine hotter than normal but not over heated - if your gauge normally is 1/2 way, then wait until its 3/4. Pull the cardboard and go for a long mixed speed cruise - freeway & back roads, use the gears to vary engine speed/load. Do a 100 miles / couple of hours before shutting it off

i may try this on my 60, just started seeing some smoke (blueish grey)...going to a compression test and clean the plugs and check a few things out first though. thank you for posting it. Sounds like the voice of experience.....im one for the 100 series but still learning the 60