Builds 2F + (3F-E) = 2FETI Into My FJ40

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I love the dishwasher bit, classic!!

I have to agree with the fellas on the water injection for a turbo engine. This technology has been around for a long time. Most folks use windshield wiper fuild as it is almost perfect mix of alcohol and H20.

If you've ever torn down a H20 injected motor, they are spotless inside, no carbon build up at all. Infact you are steam cleaning that engine out all of the time.

I have known a number of folks who used H20 injection for different applications, pontaic V8, aircooled VW w/ turbo, etc. This is a great way to enhance performance and increase to overall life of the engine and it's componets. Good Luck with the project.
 
Found out today I will need a new altenator and Vacume canister:mad: the list just slowly grows.

I'm also finding gaskets hard to find in some cases, it seems only the very early 80 series here came with the 3F-E and only for a very short time. Not having the same polution laws the EFI never made the 62's, as far as I can see. Did however snap up the last 2 genuine gaskets in Austraila from Toyota for the throtle body. 11 in stock for the injection rail to manifold so 2 of those as well. The gasket however for the the cold start injector is no longer avaialble according to Toyota even from Japan. have to make one or go with the liquid gasket.

So if anyone knows a good site for gaskets in the USA post up I may have to shop overseas soon.

Aftermarket for the 3F-E here seems to be a big fat ZERO
 
Well the quotes in :eek:
Oh yes it's in Aus $:grinpimp:


Work on the head has started:bounce2: :bounce: :bounce2:

The only part missing on the quote is porting the inlet manifold to match the head.

Grand total with tax $1855.70Aus
 
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:grinpimp: Have a few friends at Toyota so scored this today which i am currently scanning to PDF:) as it has to be back by Monday

 
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Youre running windsor valves in your 3f head? How much machining is necessary to accept those? Just the guide and the bowl?

-Matt
 
Youre running windsor valves in your 3f head? How much machining is necessary to accept those? Just the guide and the bowl?

-Matt

Not 100% sure, if you have a read through the list from the engine builder it looks like $12Aus each valve. But remember this is part of all the work been done, as an indavidual job it may be more expencive.
 
I will be rolling on the ground laughing when the "mule" has a rod sticking out of the block. You can't make chicken salad out of chicken $hit.

That's some funny sh!t Charles!
 
The question is why the ford valves, instead of the SBC valves that fit right into the Toyota/Chevy head?

These valves are not standard size, been larger they give better flow in and out:cool: hence the part of the bill for, machine for over size valves (guess the ford valves suited it best)
 
There're Chevy valves that are similarly oversized. Not an uncommon swap in the US. May be that the Ford valves are more comon/less expensive in Oz.


Mark...
 
Took the thermostat housing apart to clean mmmmmm, lots of silicon sealent and once opened it looks like a fair bit of stop leak too that's dried hardened inside and around the thermostat. Also one of the 4 bolts was covered in stop leak where it looks as if it has been leaking up the thread untill it finaly sealed.

You just know this old 3F-E has had cooling issues in the past from the state of play.

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What I was not expecting was this to have been an issue from new I guess, unless the thermostat housing has been replaced in the past, though unlikly.

After a good clean and re-assembling without a gasket I noticed one of the bolts would not thighten down (finger tight) anywhere near as much as the others. (2--3mm)
On close inspection I tested the depth of the two blind holes both the same. I messed around a little longer still a 2-3mm difference.
On even closer inspection I could actually see that the thread in one holes was shorter than the other, even though the holes were of the same depth. So even from new this thermostat housing would have always been a weak spot if not a complete pain in the a***, as it would have never tightened up to seal well.
Ran a 8mmx1.25 tap down it and now it's all good. Strange how the smallest of things can give so much trouble, you just wounder how many hours were spent with sealent and gaskets trying to get it right.

All good now though

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All three electrical conections were damaged when removed (Not By Me) A,C & D so does anyone know what they are and which is which.


A-I think is the Temp switch
C-I think is the cold start injector timer switch
D-I think is the Temp sensor
Please confirm the above
B- is a Vacume switch but to what?
E-I have no Idea what the hole is for, it's a threaded hole that goes through in to the thermostat like the others but had nothing in it that I recall though it looks more like a it would suit a compression fitting than a sensor of sorts.
 
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The old EGR gasket was used to make the new blanking plate from stainless as this part of the EFI system will not be used.



Fitted

 
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Just did the same (block off plate) on my wife's rig a couple of weeks ago when I desmogged it.

Second alternator now resides where the air pump used to live. ;)


Mark...
 
where did you get that plate for the EGR? i have seen those somewhere but i dont remember where. i need one!

Made it myself using the old gasket as the template out of a piece of stainless I found doing nothng at work:grinpimp: .
 
Just did the same (block off plate) on my wife's rig a couple of weeks ago when I desmogged it.

Second alternator now resides where the air pump used to live. ;)


Mark...

I'm thinking of this as well. What alternator did you use? Is it wired independent of the stock alt or combined?
 
Made it myself using the old gasket as the template out of a piece of stainless I found doing nothng at work:grinpimp: .

I found it easier and cheaper to use an expansion plug.
 
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I'm thinking of this as well. What alternator did you use? Is it wired independent of the stock alt or combined?

I just acquired another '62 for a parts rig. I pulled the OEM alternator out of it ands swapped on a single groove pulley from an earlier Cruiser alt. I scavenged the wiring harness that connects to the alternator as well and for now I just have the alternators siamesed.

Works nice. I was out this evening rounding up a dog that slipped out and decided to play hide and seek. Idling along with the headlights on highbeam, the heaters going full blast and a 100 watt spotlight going. Even at idle (with the brake lights on too) I was holding just under 14 volts.

160 amps of charging power and redundancy if either of the alternators does fail.


Mark...
 

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