2018 LC 200 turbo or supercharger? (2 Viewers)

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A 100-series rear diff chunk, tundra front, and owner installing themself can get 4.3s on a rig for about $600 from the prices I've been seeing.
$600 all in for a regear, without lockers. That's a bargain! Seems like a great way to go.
 
At it's most basic, a re-gear can be super cheap. Back in 2020, sourced both full pumpkin assemblies for less than $400. I rebuilt the rear one and added a locker, but if that weren't a requirement, this could be done on the cheap at the grassroots level.

Here's more costs breakdowns and part numbers. Note this is for a pre-2016 with 6-speed. For 8-speed owners, I would recommend 3.9 diffs from pre-2016 LC200s. They're more rare, but could still be done reasonably.

Front Diff
- 4.3 carrier from Tundra or Sequoia. Probably 08-20?*. 4.3s only came on these models with the optional tow package. Look for door sticker axle code B02A. Parts resellers should have the associated VIN which you can check on Toyota website to confirm tow package in options list.
*I don't know that there were absolutely no changes through 2020 that affect fitment on the 200-series. Mine is from a Tundra 2012 that fit fine.
- Fitting a locker to a front clamshell carrier is supposedly no joke with need for special measuring tools for lash. Fortunately if not looking for a locked front axle, it otherwise drops in after changing out the peripheral ADD actuator
- I sourced mine for $175 shipped

Rear Diff
- 4.3 carrier from 98-02 LC or LX. This ratio came from the 4-speed cruisers of the day (03+ got 5-speeds)
- There are factory locked ones available. Comments suggest this could be retrofitted for air actuation. For LX models only that won't have sway bar interference against the actuator.
- Carrier is directly drop into the 200-series
- Note that the 100-series uses a smaller diameter input flange and snout on the pinion shaft. If you're just looking to source the ring and pinion with full size snout, and will rebuild from your current diff, @bloc was able to sleuth a new OEM R&P 4.3 parts kit ( 41201-80493 )
- I sourced mine for $120; $200 shipped


Costs and Part Numbers
Front diff (~$250, w/o shipping & tax)
1) Used Tundra Carrier Assembly, $175
2) Toyota Red FIPG 00295-01281, $18.91
3) x2 Inner Joint Assembly Snap Ring 90521-37010, $1.27
4) R Intermediate Shaft Output Seal 90311-47013, $14.11
5) L Diff Carrier Output Shaft Seal 90311-47027, $12.97
6) 2 qts Gear Oil
7) Optional Harrop ELocker

Rear Diff (~$1650, w/o shipping & tax)
1) Used 100-series Carrier Assembly, $120
2) Axle Housing Gasket 42181-60060, $7.83
3) x2 Diff Case Side Bearings 90366-50177, $38.00
4) Rear Pinion Bearing 90366-40111, $58.41
5) Front Pinion Bearing (100-series part) 90366-30071, $38.00
6) Pinion Crush Spacer (100-series part) 41231-60030, $16.27
7) Pinion Seal (100-series part) 90311-38066, $10.33
8) x2 Axle Seal 90310-63001, $9.07
9) x2 Axle O-Ring 90301-88077, $4.13
10) 5 qts Gear Oil
11) Harrop Rear Locker (I recommend the fine folks at Cruiser Brothers, Georg @orangefj45 )
 
A 100-series rear diff chunk, tundra front, and owner installing themself can get 4.3s on a rig for about $600 from the prices I've been seeing.
Yeah, I’m strictly speaking new gears done by a pro shop. I don’t think I could’ve easily found a pumpkin with 4.88s from a 100 or Tundra, and I wouldnt trust myself to install it alone. But good point that there are inexpensive options if you’re mechanically inclined
 
Yeah, I’m strictly speaking new gears done by a pro shop. I don’t think I could’ve easily found a pumpkin with 4.88s from a 100 or Tundra, and I wouldnt trust myself to install it alone. But good point that there are inexpensive options if you’re mechanically inclined
Yeah, no 4.88s but for the 8spd guys or those of us looking for a more moderate ratio it's far below what some people have in their head as the necessary amount of money.
 
Yeah, no 4.88s but for the 8spd guys or those of us looking for a more moderate ratio it's far below what some people have in their head as the necessary amount of money.
Good point on the 8 speed. I routinely forget not everyone has a 6 speed.

I still wouldn’t want to try to swap the 3rds myself but I do get your point - a good shop could probably install those and get you out the door for half the cost of new gears
 
There's simply no way I'd add forced induction without the proper, matching tune to go with it. So it seems like for an 8 speed car, a re gear is the only way to go
 
I don’t post very often and typically ask questions that have been asked a million times but… I would like to know if anyone has any experience with installing either a turbo or a supercharger on the LC 200 (‘18) gas V8. I have 33x10.5 BFG KO2 on 2” Ikon lift and pull an 12’ enclosed trailer on a daily basis. Would like to have a bit more highway acceleration. I usually pull my trailer during the week and drop it on the weekends to crawl around in west Texas. Thanks in advance for any and all input and advice. I should probably buy a pickup to haul my trailer around but i love my LC!
Thanks
You did not disclose what is in your trailer or how much weight you are carrying? The Toyota parts counter TRD (Magnusson) SC option gets you to just under 540hp.

In regard to adding a SC, I believe that Unichip will be able to adjust the ecu for proper engine mapping with the addition of a supercharger. Either by way of a plugin or piggyback.

I had a great experience with a first generation Tundra with TRD supercharger once I swapped the factory piggy-back ecu with one custom built from Unichip out of Oregon. This was a dealer installed SC option that was later pulled from Toyota dealerships rather than correct a software malfunction leading to cranking but not firing. Maybe a two knuckle swap after which had not another issue. Residing at 10k above sea level the added atmospheric pressure at the intake really woke up the 4.7. Unichip was great to work with. Fuel consumption was possibly better than the other 1g Tundra non SC I owned if I kept my right foot out of it. But what fun would that be? Hope this helps. GLWA
 
Good point on the 8 speed. I routinely forget not everyone has a 6 speed.

I still wouldn’t want to try to swap the 3rds myself but I do get your point - a good shop could probably install those and get you out the door for half the cost of new gears
I’m leaning towards paying a local mechanic to swap the thirds on my long term project…I’ve got the diffs and one of the two lockers…

Anyone have an idea how many labor hours I should expect to be paying for for a front and rear 3rd swap?
 
I’m leaning towards paying a local mechanic to swap the thirds on my long term project…I’ve got the diffs and one of the two lockers…

Anyone have an idea how many labor hours I should expect to be paying for for a front and rear 3rd swap?
Probably more of a question for @bloc it @TeCKis300. Mine were rebuilt and the labor wasn’t broken out , but I’m guessing in my case i was charged for 8-10 hours though he spent longer on it
 
Would be really hard to say. I feel I could do the rear in under 3 hours but don’t know what a shop would think. The front involves swapping the extension housing over, which requires pulling a needle bearing from the diff housing.. and pulling the CVs.. I really couldn’t quote that even for myself.
 
I couldn't tell you how long I took to R&R them, but it was a lot, probably 12 hours or so.

I move slow, and stop myself whenever I think I might start breaking things. Like when I installed the rear diff, I took two tries at it - it didn't want to fit into the housing, and was heavy to manipulate alone - tries were separated by a break for a cup of tea and a few breaths.

I am absolutely positive a professional could do it a heck of a lot faster on a lift, with an extra set of hands, and a tall transmission jack.

Does anyone here have access to the book rate hours?
 
Probably more of a question for @bloc it @TeCKis300. Mine were rebuilt and the labor wasn’t broken out , but I’m guessing in my case i was charged for 8-10 hours though he spent longer on it

I would think what you quoted in hours is about right for a pro.

Slapping both pumpkins in without lockers is probably a 3-4hr job for a pro.

Once you introduce lockers, that's a completely different story and requires specialist work. Particularly the front clamshell as that's an even more specialized assembly requiring custom tools.
 
Seems to me that the title of this thread is incorrect?!? ⚙️⚙️⚙️⚙️
 
I am currently 12,000 miles in on my Harrop Supercharger and will be replacing it at a cost of $3,000 plus labor and shipping.
2018 200 installed at 38,000 miles.
Harrop states oil and dust in the unit.
Guess I need a snorkel pre filter and an oil catch can. Probably dust from October trip to North Main Woods.
This will put me about $14,000 since new on supercharger, labor, freight, new part, labor, shipping again. 🤷🏼‍♂️
 
I am currently 12,000 miles in on my Harrop Supercharger and will be replacing it at a cost of $3,000 plus labor and shipping.
2018 200 installed at 38,000 miles.
Harrop states oil and dust in the unit.
Guess I need a snorkel pre filter and an oil catch can. Probably dust from October trip to North Main Woods.
This will put me about $14,000 since new on supercharger, labor, freight, new part, labor, shipping again. 🤷🏼‍♂️
Hi, sorry missed this post back in Feb. So what actually happened to the supercharger, what where the symptom(s)?

Was the suggestion that the air filter had let dust through?
 
Hi, sorry missed this post back in Feb. So what actually happened to the supercharger, what where the symptom(s)?

Was the suggestion that the air filter had let dust through?
I panicked at maybe a month or two to get the unit rebuilt, and opted for buying a new one to ship next day.
After Harrop broke it down, it just needed a cleaning and reseal. Yes, too much dust being let through by K&N filter. Another item I did not realize was an issue.
All good now. Still trying to sell the other supercharger as that’s a pretty high dollar item to have as a spare. 😢
 
I panicked at maybe a month or two to get the unit rebuilt, and opted for buying a new one to ship next day.
After Harrop broke it down, it just needed a cleaning and reseal. Yes, too much dust being let through by K&N filter. Another item I did not realize was an issue.
All good now. Still trying to sell the other supercharger as that’s a pretty high dollar item to have as a spare. 😢

How much 😈
 
I'm currently installing Stage 1 Harrop. So far good, just taking my time and its hot here in Washington State. I did a reverse approach, i installed the larger fuel pump first and use it the truck for several days. I feel a noticeable improve just that it self. Anyway i just need the oil cooler lines replaced and ready to drop the charger.

If you can do timing belt replacement, the Harrop nor the Magie should be easy.
 
Yes, too much dust being let through by K&N filter. Another item I did not realize was an issue.
Thanks for the response, I feared it was the factory filter, known down here to pass dust on the diesel versions. K&N are not ideal for true off-road scenarios IMHO.
Sounds like another reason for me to follow up the new Donaldson setup (advertised for the diesels) to check compatibility with the URJ. Donaldson air cleaner for Diesel - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/donaldson-air-cleaner-for-diesel.1299380/
 

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