CharlieS
GOLD Star
$600 all in for a regear, without lockers. That's a bargain! Seems like a great way to go.
2018 LC 200 turbo or supercharger?
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At it's most basic, a re-gear can be super cheap. Back in 2020, sourced both full pumpkin assemblies for less than $400. I rebuilt the rear one and added a locker, but if that weren't a requirement, this could be done on the cheap at the grassroots level.
Here's more costs breakdowns and part numbers. Note this is for a pre-2016 with 6-speed. For 8-speed owners, I would recommend 3.9 diffs from pre-2016 LC200s. They're more rare, but could still be done reasonably.
Here's more costs breakdowns and part numbers. Note this is for a pre-2016 with 6-speed. For 8-speed owners, I would recommend 3.9 diffs from pre-2016 LC200s. They're more rare, but could still be done reasonably.
Yeah, I’m strictly speaking new gears done by a pro shop. I don’t think I could’ve easily found a pumpkin with 4.88s from a 100 or Tundra, and I wouldnt trust myself to install it alone. But good point that there are inexpensive options if you’re mechanically inclined
bloc
SILVER Star
Yeah, no 4.88s but for the 8spd guys or those of us looking for a more moderate ratio it's far below what some people have in their head as the necessary amount of money.
Good point on the 8 speed. I routinely forget not everyone has a 6 speed.
I still wouldn’t want to try to swap the 3rds myself but I do get your point - a good shop could probably install those and get you out the door for half the cost of new gears
There's simply no way I'd add forced induction without the proper, matching tune to go with it. So it seems like for an 8 speed car, a re gear is the only way to go
You did not disclose what is in your trailer or how much weight you are carrying? The Toyota parts counter TRD (Magnusson) SC option gets you to just under 540hp.
In regard to adding a SC, I believe that Unichip will be able to adjust the ecu for proper engine mapping with the addition of a supercharger. Either by way of a plugin or piggyback.
I had a great experience with a first generation Tundra with TRD supercharger once I swapped the factory piggy-back ecu with one custom built from Unichip out of Oregon. This was a dealer installed SC option that was later pulled from Toyota dealerships rather than correct a software malfunction leading to cranking but not firing. Maybe a two knuckle swap after which had not another issue. Residing at 10k above sea level the added atmospheric pressure at the intake really woke up the 4.7. Unichip was great to work with. Fuel consumption was possibly better than the other 1g Tundra non SC I owned if I kept my right foot out of it. But what fun would that be? Hope this helps. GLWA
I’m leaning towards paying a local mechanic to swap the thirds on my long term project…I’ve got the diffs and one of the two lockers…
Anyone have an idea how many labor hours I should expect to be paying for for a front and rear 3rd swap?
Probably more of a question for @bloc it @TeCKis300. Mine were rebuilt and the labor wasn’t broken out , but I’m guessing in my case i was charged for 8-10 hours though he spent longer on it
bloc
SILVER Star
Would be really hard to say. I feel I could do the rear in under 3 hours but don’t know what a shop would think. The front involves swapping the extension housing over, which requires pulling a needle bearing from the diff housing.. and pulling the CVs.. I really couldn’t quote that even for myself.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I couldn't tell you how long I took to R&R them, but it was a lot, probably 12 hours or so.
I move slow, and stop myself whenever I think I might start breaking things. Like when I installed the rear diff, I took two tries at it - it didn't want to fit into the housing, and was heavy to manipulate alone - tries were separated by a break for a cup of tea and a few breaths.
I am absolutely positive a professional could do it a heck of a lot faster on a lift, with an extra set of hands, and a tall transmission jack.
Does anyone here have access to the book rate hours?
I move slow, and stop myself whenever I think I might start breaking things. Like when I installed the rear diff, I took two tries at it - it didn't want to fit into the housing, and was heavy to manipulate alone - tries were separated by a break for a cup of tea and a few breaths.
I am absolutely positive a professional could do it a heck of a lot faster on a lift, with an extra set of hands, and a tall transmission jack.
Does anyone here have access to the book rate hours?
I would think what you quoted in hours is about right for a pro.
Slapping both pumpkins in without lockers is probably a 3-4hr job for a pro.
Once you introduce lockers, that's a completely different story and requires specialist work. Particularly the front clamshell as that's an even more specialized assembly requiring custom tools.
I am currently 12,000 miles in on my Harrop Supercharger and will be replacing it at a cost of $3,000 plus labor and shipping.
2018 200 installed at 38,000 miles.
Harrop states oil and dust in the unit.
Guess I need a snorkel pre filter and an oil catch can. Probably dust from October trip to North Main Woods.
This will put me about $14,000 since new on supercharger, labor, freight, new part, labor, shipping again.
2018 200 installed at 38,000 miles.
Harrop states oil and dust in the unit.
Guess I need a snorkel pre filter and an oil catch can. Probably dust from October trip to North Main Woods.
This will put me about $14,000 since new on supercharger, labor, freight, new part, labor, shipping again.
Hi, sorry missed this post back in Feb. So what actually happened to the supercharger, what where the symptom(s)?I am currently 12,000 miles in on my Harrop Supercharger and will be replacing it at a cost of $3,000 plus labor and shipping.
2018 200 installed at 38,000 miles.
Harrop states oil and dust in the unit.
Guess I need a snorkel pre filter and an oil catch can. Probably dust from October trip to North Main Woods.
This will put me about $14,000 since new on supercharger, labor, freight, new part, labor, shipping again.
Was the suggestion that the air filter had let dust through?
I panicked at maybe a month or two to get the unit rebuilt, and opted for buying a new one to ship next day.
After Harrop broke it down, it just needed a cleaning and reseal. Yes, too much dust being let through by K&N filter. Another item I did not realize was an issue.
All good now. Still trying to sell the other supercharger as that’s a pretty high dollar item to have as a spare.
I panicked at maybe a month or two to get the unit rebuilt, and opted for buying a new one to ship next day.
After Harrop broke it down, it just needed a cleaning and reseal. Yes, too much dust being let through by K&N filter. Another item I did not realize was an issue.
All good now. Still trying to sell the other supercharger as that’s a pretty high dollar item to have as a spare.
How much
$1500 plus actual shipping to you.How much
I'm currently installing Stage 1 Harrop. So far good, just taking my time and its hot here in Washington State. I did a reverse approach, i installed the larger fuel pump first and use it the truck for several days. I feel a noticeable improve just that it self. Anyway i just need the oil cooler lines replaced and ready to drop the charger.
If you can do timing belt replacement, the Harrop nor the Magie should be easy.
If you can do timing belt replacement, the Harrop nor the Magie should be easy.
Thanks for the response, I feared it was the factory filter, known down here to pass dust on the diesel versions. K&N are not ideal for true off-road scenarios IMHO.
Sounds like another reason for me to follow up the new Donaldson setup (advertised for the diesels) to check compatibility with the URJ. Donaldson air cleaner for Diesel - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/donaldson-air-cleaner-for-diesel.1299380/
