2018 LC 200 turbo or supercharger? (2 Viewers)

[chefbige09]

I don’t post very often and typically ask questions that have been asked a million times but… I would like to know if anyone has any experience with installing either a turbo or a supercharger on the LC 200 (‘18) gas V8. I have 33x10.5 BFG KO2 on 2” Ikon lift and pull an 12’ enclosed trailer on a daily basis. Would like to have a bit more highway acceleration. I usually pull my trailer during the week and drop it on the weekends to crawl around in west Texas. Thanks in advance for any and all input and advice. I should probably buy a pickup to haul my trailer around but i love my LC!
Thanks

 

[PhilipJPhry]

I don't have experience, but there have been a few TRD supercharger installs on LC200s. Here's one: 2013 LX570 with a Plot Twist - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2013-lx570-with-a-plot-twist.1297473/

 

[Artie]

There are a few on here with the magnuson super charger. From my reading, the big debate surrounding these is the inability to reprogram the ECU to accommodate the boost once installed.

You could probably find that thread by using the search feature.

 

[Gr8Daneger]

I know there are a few that run a Harrop SC as well. My understanding as well is that as long as you don’t go beyond a stage 1 the CPU will tune itself along with premium fuel.

TVS2650 Supercharger Kit | LC200

Harrop utilized their OEM design and manufacturing capability to release the world’s first aftermarket Supercharger system featuring TVS2650 technology to suit the Toyota 3UR-FE 5.7L V8 powered Toyota Tundra, Landcruiser 200 and Lexus LX 570.

www.harrop-usa.com

 

[LX Cruiser]

Lots and lots of people SC the 5.7. Mostly Tundras. There is a new single turbo that looks pretty killer as well.

The other option for better acceleration while towing that would ease some of the stress on your driveline is gears. 4.30s or 4.88s. No tune needed either.

 

[linuxgod]

There are a few on here with the magnuson super charger. From my reading, the big debate surrounding these is the inability to reprogram the ECU to accommodate the boost once installed.

You could probably find that thread by using the search feature.

According to a local Toyota-focused 4WD shop I use around here, there's a tune/flash now available on the current Magnusson SC setup, which doesn't just assume the stock ECU will correct the maps automatically. If I had a spare $7,695 for the kit I'd try to confirm that.

 

[Katkon]

When Toyota built the world's fastest SUV from the LC200 they used twin turbos.

 

[bloc]

The “stage 1 doesn’t need a tune” line from harrop is BS. Yes the ECU will learn and adjust fuel and spark but it does so from the perspective of what is ideal for a naturally aspirated engine, because that’s all it knows how to do.

You are now using forced induction on a port-injection engine without the proper compression ratio or timing/fuel tables for boost.

Due to the engine being so robust it will probably last for a good while, but not at all like it could with a proper tune. Last I remember 2018 wasn’t fully tunable but this may have changed. If people can find a real tuner to stick it on a dyno and get into the ECU for the correct changes I don’t see an issue. But this is very rarely happening on these SC builds.

The other option for better acceleration while towing that would ease some of the stress on your driveline is gears. 4.30s or 4.88s.

A 2018 would suffer with 4.88s, but even 3.90s from a 2008-15 would help. Or yes 4.3s.

According to a local Toyota-focused 4WD shop I use around here, there's a tune/flash now available on the current Magnusson SC setup, which doesn't just assume the stock ECU will correct the maps automatically. If I had a spare $7,695 for the kit I'd try to confirm that.

Is that model year specific? From memory the encryption changed a couple times throughout the 200-series years and certain ones but not others were tunable as of a while back..

 

[LX Cruiser]

A 2018 would suffer with 4.88s…

That’s kind of surprising. Is it the transmission gearing or the full time 4wd? Or the size of the pumpkin?

Every time gears are mentioned on the Tundra forum, it’s usually 5.29s. 5.7L/6 speed. Giant 10.5” ring gear though.

I haven’t felt the need for gears with my Tundra. It has 4.3s stock.

 

[bloc]

That’s kind of surprising. Is it the transmission gearing or the full time 4wd? Or the size of the pumpkin?

Every time gears are mentioned on the Tundra forum, it’s usually 5.29s. 5.7L/6 speed. Giant 10.5” ring gear though.

I haven’t felt the need for gears with my Tundra. It has 4.3s stock.

When Toyota switched to the 8spd transmission in 2016+ cruisers and LXs the very tall overdrive of that transmission allowed a switch to 3.3 diffs, as opposed to the 3.9s of 08-15. So it’s a whole different paradigm of ratios for these trucks.

 

[TeCKis300]

It's might be useful to note, higher ratio diffs are mechanically weaker than smaller ratio diffs. The tooth sizes get physically smaller for packaging with less structure and surface area to transmit torque. Maybe just interesting info, as diffs haven't generally been a weak spot. As the more extreme modders go 37+ and larger tires on the 200-series, we may start to see limitations in harder driving.

Because of this, the 2016+ cruisers with 3.3 diffs in my mind are stronger at least in those components. We know the same 5.7L in the Tundra and Sequoia, utilize 10.5" ring gears. Though these can be RWD so the single rear diff has to be sized to take the total load.

Also interesting with the 300-series, with a stronger motor, sized up to 9.7" diffs. So the 9.5" may be at its limits to a degree. Just saying that 4.88s and into 5.29s may not be a win win. Part of why when I re-geared, I choose an OEM 4.3 instead of the common 4.88, for towing.

 

[LX Cruiser]

It's might be useful to note, higher ratio diffs are mechanically weaker than smaller ratio diffs. The tooth sizes get physically smaller for packaging with less structure and surface area to transmit torque. Maybe just interesting info, as diffs haven't generally been a weak spot. As the more extreme modders go 37+ and larger tires on the 200-series, we may start to see limitations in harder driving.

Because of this, the 2016+ cruisers with 3.3 diffs in my mind are stronger at least in those components. We know the same 5.7L in the Tundra and Sequoia, utilize 10.5" ring gears. Though these can be RWD so the single rear diff has to be sized to take the total load.

Also interesting with the 300-series, with a stronger motor, sized up to 9.7" diffs. So the 9.5" may be at its limits to a degree. Just saying that 4.88s and into 5.29s may not be a win win. Part of why when I re-geared, I choose an OEM 4.3 instead of the common 4.88, for towing.

Makes sense. This is probably why so many regeared GXs grenade their diffs.

The Sequoia is 10” though, I believe.

 

[linuxgod]

The “stage 1 doesn’t need a tune” line from harrop is BS. Yes the ECU will learn and adjust fuel and spark but it does so from the perspective of what is ideal for a naturally aspirated engine, because that’s all it knows how to do.

You are now using forced induction on a port-injection engine without the proper compression ratio or timing/fuel tables for boost.

Due to the engine being so robust it will probably last for a good while, but not at all like it could with a proper tune. Last I remember 2018 wasn’t fully tunable but this may have changed. If people can find a real tuner to stick it on a dyno and get into the ECU for the correct changes I don’t see an issue. But this is very rarely happening on these SC builds.




A 2018 would suffer with 4.88s, but even 3.90s from a 2008-15 would help. Or yes 4.3s.



Is that model year specific? From memory the encryption changed a couple times throughout the 200-series years and certain ones but not others were tunable as of a while back..

I don’t know, I haven’t actually looked into it other than a cursory ask. The guys at Chi-Town 4x4 which is largely a Toyota shop said “there's a real tune on it. A flash tune from HP tuners”. I didn’t really inquire further because the cost to acquire and install is roughly the cost of a semester of undergrad tuition, and so my kids upcoming college education wins out

 

[Moby]

I don’t know, I haven’t actually looked into it other than a cursory ask. The guys at Chi-Town 4x4 which is largely a Toyota shop said “there's a real tune on it. A flash tune from HP tuners”. I didn’t really inquire further because the cost to acquire and install is roughly the cost of a semester of undergrad tuition, and so my kids upcoming college education wins out

FWIW Harrop details their approach and tuning in their documentation. I'm convinced on the fueling side. The thing that concerns me, after a careful review, is that they ran on 98RON which I believe is equivalent to ~93 Octane. I can't regularly get 93.

Edit: TVS2650 Supercharger Kit | LC 200 - https://www.harrop-usa.com/tvs2650-supercharger-kit-lc-200/p55 page 7 on the "tech guide" pdf.

 

[Jason Andrews]

There are a few super charged setups on here. @boringdriver has a stage 2. Prospeed down in Houston is the go to shop for it all. They install Magnuson, Harrop, Whipple etc and told me they usually recommend the Harrop. I think the large 85mm pulley Harrop uses keeps the boost lower than the TRD/Magnuson kit that needed a tune.

I've been running the Harrop stage 1 for about 4 months on 37's, stock gears and 5,000-10,000ft elevation commutes. Tow a 24' Winnebago and my 80 with trailer that weighs 8,200#s.

SC costs like 10k and a regear costs like 5k. I'd just do a re-gear and then think about the SC if you still want more.

 

[chefbige09]

There are a few super charged setups on here. @boringdriver has a stage 2. Prospeed down in Houston is the go to shop for it all. They install Magnuson, Harrop, Whipple etc and told me they usually recommend the Harrop. I think the large 85mm pulley Harrop uses keeps the boost lower than the TRD/Magnuson kit that needed a tune.

I've been running the Harrop stage 1 for about 4 months on 37's, stock gears and 5,000-10,000ft elevation commutes. Tow a 24' Winnebago and my 80 with trailer that weighs 8,200#s.

SC costs like 10k and a regear costs like 5k. I'd just do a re-gear and then think about the SC if you still want more.

 

[chefbige09]

Great info! Thank you for the help. Thinking regear to start. My wife is gonna kill me if she find out I’m thinking about spending more $$ on my LC! Thanks to all for your time! Much appreciated

 

[linuxgod]

There are a few super charged setups on here. @boringdriver has a stage 2. Prospeed down in Houston is the go to shop for it all. They install Magnuson, Harrop, Whipple etc and told me they usually recommend the Harrop. I think the large 85mm pulley Harrop uses keeps the boost lower than the TRD/Magnuson kit that needed a tune.

I've been running the Harrop stage 1 for about 4 months on 37's, stock gears and 5,000-10,000ft elevation commutes. Tow a 24' Winnebago and my 80 with trailer that weighs 8,200#s.

SC costs like 10k and a regear costs like 5k. I'd just do a re-gear and then think about the SC if you still want more.

I think my regear with front and rear lockers was about $5500 all-in. The cost of elockers and the extra labor to run the wiring was half the cost. So if someone (@chefbige09) just wanted to regear that can be had for $3k or less. Of course while you're in there...

I would agree if you're gone with larger tires, to start with a re-gear. Around town I have zero reason to run a S/C - between 4.88s and turning the ECT PWR button on, I've got silly acceleration. The S/C would help with towing, especially on the highway though

 

[bloc]

I think my regear with front and rear lockers was about $5500 all-in. The cost of elockers and the extra labor to run the wiring was half the cost. So if someone (@chefbige09) just wanted to regear that can be had for $3k or less. Of course while you're in there...

I would agree if you're gone with larger tires, to start with a re-gear. Around town I have zero reason to run a S/C - between 4.88s and turning the ECT PWR button on, I've got silly acceleration. The S/C would help with towing, especially on the highway though

A 100-series rear diff chunk, tundra front, and owner installing themself can get 4.3s on a rig for about $600 from the prices I've been seeing.

 

[CharlieS]

I think my regear with front and rear lockers was about $5500 all-in. The cost of elockers and the extra labor to run the wiring was half the cost. So if someone (@chefbige09) just wanted to regear that can be had for $3k or less. Of course while you're in there...

I would agree if you're gone with larger tires, to start with a re-gear. Around town I have zero reason to run a S/C - between 4.88s and turning the ECT PWR button on, I've got silly acceleration. The S/C would help with towing, especially on the highway though

That tracks. I think I was at ~$5000 all in, me doing the R&R (Regear and Eatons F/R) and wiring.

@JetSurfer has a supercharger and says good things about it.