2007 LC “VX” (4 Viewers)

GTV

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Si'ahl
Post #51 I was not in a happy place. It was Friday, my options were severely limited. After some deliberation I decided our best bet was to end the vacation and turn southwest to Boise where I’ve got a close friend with an 80 and 100 series.

I had nearly no brakes and 400 miles to drive. Google maps provided us with a route free of interstates and we set off. Slowly. Very slowly. We covered just 150 miles and found a nice place to camp in the national forest somewhere off Idaho state highway 22.
BDB01D13-B723-4D03-97DC-C5B798E23EB0.jpeg


Set off again the next morning. Our route took us through Craters of the Moon National Monument so we checked that out. While there I met @marcoLx470 briefly. The monument reminded me a bit of Sunset Crater in AZ. I didn’t take any pictures, I wasn’t really in the mood 😂

Since I was only driving 50-55mph max and the terrain was pretty flat (downhill leaving Yellowstone) I did record an astonishing 21.6mpg on my last fill up. The current tank has 288 miles on it and shows just under half full. That has to be some sort of record 😅

We finally coasted into Boise safely late Saturday afternoon. On bald front tires and almost no brakes. Not exactly the 100 series introduction I was expecting.
56FC0A1B-5F92-46E5-A5B3-EF8BF0AD58D2.jpeg


Anyway, I left the LC at my buddy’s place and borrowed his ‘01 LX to make the rest of the drive home on Sunday. I’m going to get some parts on the way and hopefully return to Boise in the next 2-3 weeks to repair my LC and finally get it home.
 
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St. Louis, Missouri
Post #51 I was not in a happy place. It was Friday, my options were severely limited. After some deliberation I decided our best bet was to end the vacation and turn southwest to Boise where I’ve got a close friend with an 80 and 100 series.

I had nearly no brakes and 400 miles to drive. Google maps provided us with a route free of interstates and we set off. Slowly. Very slowly. We covered just 150 miles and found a nice place to camp in the national forest somewhere off Idaho state highway 22.
View attachment 2386971

Set off again the next morning. Our route took us through Craters of the Moon National Monument so we checked that out. While there I met @marcoLx470 briefly. The monument reminded me a bit of Sunset Crater in AZ. I didn’t take any pictures, I wasn’t really in the mood 😂

Since I was only driving 50-55mph max and the terrain was pretty flat (downhill leaving Yellowstone) I did record an astonishing 21.6mpg on my last fill up. The current tank has 288 miles on it and shows just under half full. That has to be some sort of record 😅

We finally coasted into Boise safely late Saturday afternoon. On bald front tires and almost no brakes. Not exactly the 100 series introduction I was expecting.
View attachment 2386991

Anyway, I left the LC at my buddy’s place and borrowed his ‘01 LX to make the rest of the drive home on Sunday. I’m going to get some parts on the way and hopefully return to Boise in the next 2-3 weeks to repair my LC and finally get it home.
Sounds like both an awesome and butt-puckeringly horrible trip at the same time.

While there are a lot of things that could possibly be wrong with your brake booster/MC, I think the most likely culprit is what I experienced with mine last fall:

“Total” brake failure yesterday... accumulator pump motor CONFIRMED

An easy way to test, once you are back at the truck, is to disconnect the motor leads from the underside of the ABS module and jumper the leads directly to the battery, using some alligator clips and lead extenders. I'm betting that your motor won't run, or at least won't run consistently. What happens is that copper on the commutator wears through to the insulating plastic shaft, and when it does so, the associated coils are electrically dead. If the motor happens to stop on one of those dead spots, it won't be starting again.

You can do this test with the MC installed in the truck. You'll need a small mirror to see what you are doing, and either a right-angle Phillips head screwdriver or (even better) a Phillips bit and bit holder on a 1/4 ratchet. Pull back the boot, position the mirror under the ABS block, and unscrew the terminals. Don't drop those screws! If, as is illustrating in the thread I linked to, the screw terminals are badly corroded, assume the motor is bad and the pull the MC. However, since Paul worked on this truck recently, I'm sure they're not.

The motor can be rebuilt, possibly locally in Boise. It is also available separately new for $700 or so, IIRC. If the motor is the issue, do what I did and either rebuild or replace the motor only (and rebuild your MC while it is out). If you are replacing, the motor/pressure accumulator assembly together is only like $850, so it might make sense to replace both parts. On a 2007, I doubt the pressure accumulator is bad, though.

This is not a hard job. With a friend and all the parts on hand, it can easily be accomplished in one long day. Testing/repressurizing the system and bleeding the brakes took me longer than all the heavy wrenching. The single hardest part of the job was accessing the four bolts that hold the MC to the firewall, because there is just no room under the dash.

Good luck and feel free to PM if you want with any questions!
 
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jtb517

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Seattle, WA
Glad to see this truck is back in the hands of someone who will appreciate and take care of it.

Hopefully I’ll see it cruising around town in a few weeks.
 
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458
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Ontario, Canada
 
 
 
Thanks for posting all this. Nice to see the fantastic photos mixed in the story as well. Sorry to read that it wasn't the trip you were hoping for.

Reading about trips likes this makes me wonder if we can all prepare ourselves better for some of these re-occurring problems. Besides some basic tools I'm thinking a laptop with Techstream, FSM, wiring diagram and a multimeter is the minimum for a trip. Include internet access to mud as well?

Maybe it would have been possible to use the 'active test' feature to neutralize the suspension and then pull the fuse or switch AHC off. Similarly I'm thinking about a set of potentiometers and some wires as an alternative method to bypass the height sensors. So also a soldering iron, solder, small pliers and tape.

The brake booster pump is something that worries me a lot as well. Especially when family members are driving (LX or GX). I did see a video where someone tapped the booster/motor with a hammer to get it moving again. Good to know for an emergency situation.

I also have some older (still good) coils in each vehicle. Any other thoughts?
 

GTV

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Si'ahl
I feel like I should clarify something first- I don’t blame anyone (Paul or the PO) for these failures. That’s the bad part about electronics, they can give up without warning. Makes me miss old cars, mechanical parts will usually give you a long warning before they fail completely and leave you stranded.

Sounds like both an awesome and butt-puckeringly horrible trip at the same time.

While there are a lot of things that could possibly be wrong with your brake booster/MC, I think the most likely culprit is what I experienced with mine last fall:

“Total” brake failure yesterday... accumulator pump motor CONFIRMED

An easy way to test, once you are back at the truck, is to disconnect the motor leads from the underside of the ABS module and jumper the leads directly to the battery, using some alligator clips and lead extenders. I'm betting that your motor won't run, or at least won't run consistently. What happens is that copper on the commutator wears through to the insulating plastic shaft, and when it does so, the associated coils are electrically dead. If the motor happens to stop on one of those dead spots, it won't be starting again.

You can do this test with the MC installed in the truck. You'll need a small mirror to see what you are doing, and either a right-angle Phillips head screwdriver or (even better) a Phillips bit and bit holder on a 1/4 ratchet. Pull back the boot, position the mirror under the ABS block, and unscrew the terminals. Don't drop those screws! If, as is illustrating in the thread I linked to, the screw terminals are badly corroded, assume the motor is bad and the pull the MC. However, since Paul worked on this truck recently, I'm sure they're not.

The motor can be rebuilt, possibly locally in Boise. It is also available separately new for $700 or so, IIRC. If the motor is the issue, do what I did and either rebuild or replace the motor only (and rebuild your MC while it is out). If you are replacing, the motor/pressure accumulator assembly together is only like $850, so it might make sense to replace both parts. On a 2007, I doubt the pressure accumulator is bad, though.

This is not a hard job. With a friend and all the parts on hand, it can easily be accomplished in one long day. Testing/repressurizing the system and bleeding the brakes took me longer than all the heavy wrenching. The single hardest part of the job was accessing the four bolts that hold the MC to the firewall, because there is just no room under the dash.

Good luck and feel free to PM if you want with any questions!
Thank you for the advice! I ordered the pump and accumulator last night. $772 from McGeorge. I think I’ll just install the pump and keep the new accumulator on hand(?). I’ll hang on to the old pump and rebuilt it, ready for the next time this happens.


Glad to see this truck is back in the hands of someone who will appreciate and take care of it.

Hopefully I’ll see it cruising around town in a few weeks.
Planning on heading back to Boise the weekend of the 7-9, fingers crossed everything goes as planned. I should have my wheels and tires ready for it shortly thereafter, then I can really start to test it out. Looking forward to meeting other local 100 owners.


Thanks for posting all this. Nice to see the fantastic photos mixed in the story as well. Sorry to read that it wasn't the trip you were hoping for.

Reading about trips likes this makes me wonder if we can all prepare ourselves better for some of these re-occurring problems. Besides some basic tools I'm thinking a laptop with Techstream, FSM, wiring diagram and a multimeter is the minimum for a trip. Include internet access to mud as well?

Maybe it would have been possible to use the 'active test' feature to neutralize the suspension and then pull the fuse or switch AHC off. Similarly I'm thinking about a set of potentiometers and some wires as an alternative method to bypass the height sensors. So also a soldering iron, solder, small pliers and tape.

The brake booster pump is something that worries me a lot as well. Especially when family members are driving (LX or GX). I did see a video where someone tapped the booster/motor with a hammer to get it moving again. Good to know for an emergency situation.

I also have some older (still good) coils in each vehicle. Any other thoughts?
A year and a half ago I bought an 05 Sequoia with 256k for $3750 and drove it to Seattle from Chicago in the dead of winter. Not a single problem. I foolishly assumed I could do the same with this LC.

I wish I would have had brought techstream, it would have saved me money and gave me answers if nothing else. However I still would have been stuck in both instances.
 

GTV

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Messages
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Si'ahl
Brake booster motor FINALLY arrived and holy crap, this thing feels like it’s cast from solid lead. At least that kinda/sorta makes me feel like I got something for my $772.
BDBFF81C-7D55-471D-BE53-01698F028B95.jpeg

Planning on heading to Boise next weekend to get this sorted out and hopefully bring the damn thing home.
 

GTV

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Jan 31, 2019
Messages
612
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Si'ahl
Ok, getting started for reals now!

As I previously mentioned the PO did a number on this poor truck. It still baffles me why he bought an enthusiasts vehicle and abused it like a damn rental. He was dishonest when I asked him about the current condition, he said the only thing that had changed since he bought it from @2001LC was the airbag light was on. He failed to mention the...

Broken glove box
Broken rear console tabs, missing clips
Headlight out
(2) Broken rear seat belt retainers (is there a source for these?)
Torn out floor mat hook
Blown speakers
Damaged front right door panel
Cracked/ill fitting running boards
Bent/broken 7 pin trailer plug
Scratches in the fender, door ding
Leaks water on passenger floor (any advice on what to look at?)
Reverse camera (aftermarket) doesn't work

I can't imagine that Paul sold it to him with any one of those issues, we've all seen his work and know how insanely detailed he is. Regardless, they're my problems now so it's time to get to work. Along with those it does need some basic maintenance to start...

Oil change Done 21/8/20
Grease driveshafts (getting a slight clunk from the rear) Done 19/08/20
Pack front wheel bearings (assuming these haven’t been done since Paul)

And a few mods/misc that will be done in the not too distant future, in no particular order...

Wheels and tires (wheels will hopefully be done next week, Bora spacers ordered)
JDM rear wiper (ordered from PartSouq yesterday, thanks @Ayune) Done 21/8/20
New drivers seat cushion (arrived, will install this week) Done 21/8/20
WeatherTech/Husky mats
OEM front mud flaps
YodaMD key hardware kit
Remove & clean doggy smelling carpet
Engine compartment detail

I am getting some excessive fan noise coming from the HVAC in the higher speeds. Yesterday I pulled the cabin filter to have a look and it looked fine. Any ideas? While down there I also spotted these two white electrical connectors floating around the passenger kick panel not connected to anything (no, they don't connect to each other). What are they?
24FCB070-0635-43E9-98B5-2A706655E79F.jpeg
 
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CBB

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Messages
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Charlotte
I just did the carpet removal & deep clean. Using a pressure washer and a drill with brush attachment made life extremely easy vs the alternatives. I did find that the jute padding took a while to completely dry out (it'll seemingly never dry if left flat on the floor). I hung the main passenger section from a wall hook in my carport and let gravity help with the drying process. The look/feel/smell of the carpet being completely clean makes the whole project worth while. I used Chemical Guys lightning fast stain extractor with good results. I also probably should have used some sort of Scotchgard or other protector to keep it fresh longer. There are definitely going to be more rules about who and what comes into the LC moving forward...
 
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I just saw this thread. I'll try to get more involved, too see if I can help get this special 100 series back on track.

Not sure if you got the AHC, sorted out. But in this picture I noticed turnbuckles total turned in. The sensors have two adjustment. One is the nut that allows movement up and down in slide. The other is the turnbuckle, which yours are turn all the way in. Likely PO adjusted in, thinking he was lowering the front end.

Reading the Unicorn thread, you'll see AHC was flushed. IMHO should be every 20 to 30K, more often is better. You see new rear coils and 30mm spacer. This give just a little add lift to rear. It was added to give longer life to globes. You likely do not need any parts for the AHC, just adjustment to get system in line.
EC953F3C-CCD5-4654-AB0B-0F7676E2B4AF.jpeg

They should look more like this for factory set.
Shocks 3-22-18 (1)c.jpg


Caution:
Use care and disconnect battery negative post clamp, when working glove box/HVAC area. There is an air bag sensor. I like disconnecting negative battery terminal when working on these rigs, most times.

HVAC fan sounds:
Sounds at high speed fan of HVAC. May be filter used, is to restrictive or clogged. May be debris in fan squeal cage. Fan unplugs from bottom and remove 3 screws to drop out. Filter are behind the door of face of HVAC. See Unicorns thread for this stuff. It may also need a new seal in bottom of face plate, if water dripping in footwell. I' use new OEM seal or make one with butyl. I'm betting butyl last much longer.
064a.jpg

Wiring housing unplugged:
Not sure about the unused wire housing, near glove box. It may be extra, which you'll find many unplugged on 100 series. It may be glove box light or some other thing not working. In may plug into the wire just in front of it. Toyota is pretty good at using plugs in a given area that can only be plugged into one wire housing in same area.

One thing everyone likes but, I do not. Is aftermarket radios. It's not the cool features of modern tech. It's that so often factory wires are hacked. We get some very strange stuff happening, that is often result of messing with wiring.

Air bags:
Look in Unicorns thread. You'll see a wire under DS the seat that I spliced. This is parts of seat sensor for air bags. This wire breaks often. Especial when large men sits in the seat, which PO was. I'd suggest making wire longer. Toyota used a wire a little thin and short IMHO.


Brakes:
Since time of Unicorn restore. I've learned more about brake master. The brake control wire had corrosions, which I replaced. I've now learned this corrosion increases resistance in wire to motor. IMHO the commutator will then prematurely wear out, due to high resistance reduce AMPs to motor. Commutator tends to get dead spots. Motor will run at times and not others, as its brushes land on dead spots.

Here is example of a dead spot on a commutator of brake booster motor. Likely you'll find similar in you old motor. Buying the booster assembly is best way to go, as you did. But likely only the motor needed rebuilding. You'll now have a booster system that will bring pressure up to factory new spec. Bad of this is, "can the master handle factory pressure". If you get screeching sound with air bubbles coming up front of brake reservoir, the answer is no.
DH commutator.jpg
 
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GTV

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Jan 31, 2019
Messages
612
Location
Si'ahl
I just saw this thread. I'll try to get more involved, too see if I can help get this special 100 series back on track.

Not sure if you got the AHC, sorted out. But in this picture I noticed turnbuckles total turned in. The sensors have two adjustment. One is the nut that allows movement up and down in slide. The other is the turnbuckle, which yours are turn all the way in. Likely PO adjusted in, thinking he was lowering the front end.

Reading the Unicorn thread, you'll see AHC was flushed. IMHO should be every 20 to 30K, more often is better. You see new rear coils and 30mm spacer. This give just a little add lift to rear. It was added to give longer life to globes. You likely do not need any parts for the AHC, just adjustment to get system in line.
View attachment 2409372
They should look more like this for factory set.
View attachment 2409374

Caution:
Use care and disconnect battery negative post clamp, when working glove box/HVAC area. There is an air bag sensor. I like disconnecting negative battery terminal when working on these rigs, most times.

HVAC fan sounds:
Sounds at high speed fan of HVAC. May be filter used, is to restrictive or clogged. May be debris in fan squeal cage. Fan unplugs from bottom and remove 3 screws to drop out. Filter are behind the door of face of HVAC. See Unicorns thread for this stuff. It may also need a new seal in bottom of face plate, if water dripping in footwell. I' use new OEM seal or make one with butyl. I'm betting butyl last much longer.
View attachment 2409415
Wiring housing unplugged:
Not sure about the unused wire housing, near glove box. It may be extra, which you'll find many unplugged on 100 series. It may be glove box light or some other thing not working. In may plug into the wire just in front of it. Toyota is pretty good at using plugs in a given area that can only be plugged into one wire housing in same area.

One thing everyone likes but, I do not. Is aftermarket radios. It's not the cool features of modern tech. It's that so often factory wires are hacked. We get some very strange stuff happening, that is often result of messing with wiring.

Air bags:
Look in Unicorns thread. You'll see a wire under DS the seat that I spliced. This is parts of seat sensor for air bags. This wire breaks often. Especial when large men sits in the seat, which PO was. I'd suggest making wire longer. Toyota used a wire a little thin and short IMHO.


Brakes:
Since time of Unicorn restore. I've learned more about brake master. The brake control wire had corrosions, which I replaced. I've now learned this corrosion increases resistance in wire to motor. IMHO the commutator will then prematurely wear out, due to high resistance reduce AMPs to motor. Commutator tends to get dead spots. Motor will run at times and not others, as its brushes land on dead spots.

Here is example of a dead spot on a commutator of brake booster motor. Likely you'll find similar in you old motor. Buying the booster assembly is best way to go, as you did. But likely only the motor needed rebuilding. You'll now have a booster system that will bring pressure up to factory new spec. Bad of this is, "can the master handle factory pressure". If you get screeching sound with air bubbles coming up front of brake reservoir, the answer is no.
View attachment 2409391
Thanks for checking in Paul!

The image of the shortened turnbuckles is not from my truck, I was referencing my buddy's '01 LX with a sensor lift. In Michigan I did extend my links 1/4" to try and lower the front a little but I have since put them back to where they were. I'm sure no one had touched them since you last worked on it.
According to your post the rear coils have 15mm of spacer installed. The AHC does seem to behave normally when driving but it does seem to sit much too low when parked. I haven't taken any measurements or investigated further as of yet. I am seriously considering swapping in standard LC suspension though. 30mm coil spacers and a few turns on stock torsion bars would make me a happy boy and give me 100% trust in the suspension, something that I don't currently have. It would be one less system to worry about and maintain.

Air bags, sensors, etc... I did automotive upholstery for years. Under the guidance of my first boss I disconnected the battery on every airbag equipped vehicle we worked on. Never had a problem. The second shop I worked at we never bothered to disconnect the battery, I worked on hundreds of airbag equipped cars this way. Never had a problem. So is it needed? No. Is it safer? Maybe.
I'll drop the fan and inspect the butyl seal when I replace the glovebox. The filter looked fine, I blew it out with some air and reinstalled it.

I also hate aftermarket stereos. Admittedly I'm not an audiophile and I was happy with the stock system in my old Tundra and Sequoia. I've never found an aftermarket unit that was intuitive and easy to use. I've also never seen a clean installation on a car that wasn't a show car. 99.9% of car audio installers are hacks, they just slam it in there with as little effort as possible. That being said I can't imagine going back to a factory head unit. For starters it's $1600 from McGeorge. Secondly, I really like having navigation (even though the nav on this unit leaves a lot to be desired). Third, a rear camera is a real plus especially if my wife starts driving this thing. I'll get to know what I've got, hopefully get the camera working, replace the speakers and go from there.

I'm planning on replacing the drivers cushion this week, I'll have a look at the wire for the seat sensor at the same time. Sounds like an easy fix.

Interesting what you've learned about the brakes. I'm planning on rebuilding the original booster and sticking it on the shelf for next time.
 

GTV

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Wednesday I greased the driveshafts and got rid of the slight clunk I was feeling
Yesterday I knocked out a few jobs. Found the missing console panel clips at my local dealer.
53BB55DF-CFCE-4414-8D9A-402274500973.jpeg

Cupholder still doesn't work all that well, only one time out of ten will it actually go back into its hole. At least the panel fits snugly now.

The rear wiper blade was starting to come apart so I saw that as good reason to upgrade to the JDM wiper.
4944DBFB-578D-41E8-8E5D-4F4DD77B9C7C.jpeg

2CB31E99-27B2-4AA9-AE54-0FF98B8A7468.jpeg

Pulled the drivers seat and swapped the foam out. What a difference this made, I'm sitting a lot higher in the truck now and I have so much more lateral support. It doesn't feel like a used car so much. Still smells like one though.
3AF41290-25CB-4773-95E4-50D6156556FE.jpeg

Bolster was flat!
66DD6121-42C8-4EA2-A34B-CDD8C371CE09.jpeg
 

GTV

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Si'ahl
Also found the reason for my airbag light as @2001LC suspected. I haven't taken apart one of these pin connectors yet, need to learn how to do so, extend the wires and hook it back up.
A429B3FD-DDD2-497F-9F9F-FC018A9E93B5.jpeg

Also did an oil change with the larger M1-209 filter. Had a Pennzoil filter in it that was changed last November.
 
Joined
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Also found the reason for my airbag light as @2001LC suspected. I haven't taken apart one of these pin connectors yet, need to learn how to do so, extend the wires and hook it back up.
View attachment 2412226
Also did an oil change with the larger M1-209 filter. Had a Pennzoil filter in it that was changed last November.
Easiest way to learn how to pull pins/pigtails from wire housing block. Order a new OEM housing block and pigtails, you'll see. Basically, I pres in a pick and release from business side and pull out. Most come out back side. My local Dealership cost more. But they're cool on returns, if I don't use.
 
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Wednesday I greased the driveshafts and got rid of the slight clunk I was feeling
Yesterday I knocked out a few jobs. Found the missing console panel clips at my local dealer.
View attachment 2412210
Cupholder still doesn't work all that well, only one time out of ten will it actually go back into its hole. At least the panel fits snugly now.

The rear wiper blade was starting to come apart so I saw that as good reason to upgrade to the JDM wiper.
View attachment 2412216
View attachment 2412217
Pulled the drivers seat and swapped the foam out. What a difference this made, I'm sitting a lot higher in the truck now and I have so much more lateral support. It doesn't feel like a used car so much. Still smells like one though.
View attachment 2412220
Bolster was flat!
View attachment 2412221
Both my PO and your PO where big men...LOL. Nice touch getting new foam.
 
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jtb517

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Seattle, WA
Part numbers for the rear seatbelt holders. Shoutout to @l3n0x for providing this info on another thread.

73371-60030-A1 - HANGER, REAR NO.2 SEAT SHOULDER BELT, RH/LH (IVORY TRIM (brownish))
73371-60030-B3 - HANGER, REAR NO.2 SEAT SHOULDER BELT, RH/LH (STONE TRIM (greyish))
 

GTV

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Si'ahl
Part numbers for the rear seatbelt holders. Shoutout to @l3n0x for providing this info on another thread.

73371-60030-A1 - HANGER, REAR NO.2 SEAT SHOULDER BELT, RH/LH (IVORY TRIM (brownish))
73371-60030-B3 - HANGER, REAR NO.2 SEAT SHOULDER BELT, RH/LH (STONE TRIM (greyish))
Thanks so much for that!! Unfortunately I just put in a McGeorge order in this morning so it will have to wait for the next order. There’s always a next order.
 

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