2006 having some interesting issues with Moab heat (1 Viewer)

[krispykritter]

Hello all,

Currently in Moab and having a new issue I've never really heard discussed before. It is similar to the AC fan issue as discussed here, but in my case, my motor is definitely getting warm. The temp gauge has made it a solid 3-4 ticks higher than normal and my AC goes away as well.

I'm with a four vehicle group, including my 100, a Taco, a Wrangler, and a Gladiator. Now, it's been hot. Really hot. Air temps between 95 and 108, and the ground is hot enough to burn. While moving, the 100 seems to cool itself down fine, but when stopped, the temp gauge starts climbing. I've been opening the hood whenever we stop to spot the various vehicles through tight spots, and that seems to mostly solved the problem, but it's far from ideal. Also, holding the revs up around 1200-1500 gets the engine fan moving enough air to drop the temps as well.

Neither of these is an ideal solution - has anyone run into this and solved it? I'm thinking adding LandCruiserPhil's condenser fan would probably help, but anything else?

The radiator is in good shape externally, the coolant is full, and it's all nice and clean. Water pump and thermostat were done with timing belt around 110k miles, and I haven't had a single issue with the cooling system before this, or when driving around at speed in ridiculous temps. Just when idling over ridiculously hot ground.

Also I've run into the fuel boiling issue as well - that's been fun. Hasn't prevented the 100 from running but isn't great to have constant fuel vapors/venting from fuel tank.

 

[Mike NXP]

The condenser fan you mentioned will not help keep your engine coolant temps down, that is for the AC system and I am pretty sure our 100 series has one already, at least my 2002 does.

It sounds like your up against a different issue, perhaps your cooling fan is not operating properly since you mentioned other parts of your cooling system have checked out.

Start with the basics, are you sure you coolant level is within range? After a 8 hour cool down check under the cap and in the reservoir. If coolant levels check out, I would move on to inspecting the fan for proper operation since the problem seems to only happen when stopped it sounds like it's not moving enough air.

 

[Ramathorn15]

If I recall correctly, the ac compressor kicks off at 220 in a last ditch effort to save the engine from overheating.

You need to be very careful as if you get much above 220, you risk engine damage.

 

[James Bentley]

@krispykritter double check fluid level in overflow (of course don't open rad cap when hot) make sure fan clutch is locking up and no visible obstruction in rad fins or between rad and condenser.
For later reading on cleaning rad fins: Master thread: Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 & 200 series. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/master-thread-buying-pm-advance-maintenance-of-100-200-series.1041301/ from @2001LC

 

[saucebox]

Having to idle it high/rev it makes me think your fan clutch is done.

 

[James Bentley]

not practical, but running full heat ON and fan blower on High will pull heat out of the engine/coolant a bit.

 

[James Bentley]

@krispykritter I see no noticeable change in engine coolant temp when running my LCP aux condenser fan, However...the A/C does seem to cool better/faster with it on and I am SUPER happy I got it a few years ago. Easy install and no issues with @LandCruiserPhil
"In 2003 Toyota removed the electric condenser fan from the 100 series Land Cruiser and Lexus 470. Additionally, Toyota changed the way the air ducts into the radiator. The fan removal and air duct changes work well when the vehicle is at speed, but A/C performance suffers when stopped or setting in heavy traffic."

 

[excessive]

probably a new fan clutch ( or rebuild the old one w/ higher viscosity fluid) will help

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

probably a new fan clutch ( or rebuild the old one w/ higher viscosity fluid) will help

When the AC performance drops the water temps do not increase

 

[suprarx7nut]

Fan clutch new? If not, replace that, IMO.

 

[James Bentley]

@krispykritter https://www.napaonline.com/stores/ut/moab

https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=fan+clutch&isPromo=0&referer=vehicleAdd

Call/Verify IF in stock - the cheap one shows to be:

 

[Mike NXP]

Need to forget about the AC condenser / fan for this issue, sure it's a nice addition but your vehicle doesn't require it to properly cool. It may help the OP issue but it would just be a bandaid to fix a different problem


Focus on the cooling system, start by properly checking coolant level and then move to your fan clutch as others are suggesting since other aspects of the cooling system were recently replaced.

 

[gregnash]

Another vote for cooling system issue, likely fan clutch not engaging enough to pull air across the radiator to keep things cool. Especially in those temps. You will have to verify with NAPA that is the correct one but should be. You will need 12mm wrench (if you can find get an S wrench) to get off. No need to pull upper rad hose but it does make things easier. I was able to snake it out without damaging fan blade or fins in rad. Just takes patience.

 

[Mike NXP]

Correct me if I am wrong but a quick test for the fan would be to...

>> When the engine is hot, shut it down and spin the fan by hand. You should feel resistance as it should be locked up allowing it to work properly. When engine is cold the fan will spin more freely.

I can test this later if you need. I believe I get like 1/4 turn when hot and I give the fan a spin by hand. New OEM clutch recently installed. On my old one you could feel it binding up and not operating smoothly.

 

[krispykritter]

Hello again, all! Appreciate all the response. I just got back from another day on the trails before I start the loooong drive back to Florida tomorrow morning.

RE: AC Fan - Generally my thought on the AC fan was that the condenser definitely adds heat to the radiator as it cools the cabin, but I have no idea if the extra added heat makes a difference or not. Figured the AC fan would help negate some of that extra heat that's being added.

RE: Checking fluid levels - All fluids checked correct every morning before heading out. I'm pretty ocd with maintenance and I drove all the way from Florida to drive these trails with some friends, so I made sure everything was in the best shape I could manage before leaving.

RE: Fan clutch - The fan is definitely pulling air through the radiator but perhaps the clutch is too worn to move as much air as is required. Holding the revs around 1500 cools it down in a hurry, no doubt. Florida is usually pretty hot but I've never had an issue before. It seems moab is just a whole nother level of warm even over normal Florida heat.

I'll look into the fan clutch when I get home as I think that seems to be the most likely culprit. I'll also need to maybe add a trans cooler to the fuel return as I've boiled fuel every day this trip, and today was unable to start the 100 for a good 30 minutes after our lunch stop.

I'm guessing no one else has encountered this issue before? We drove White Rim Road in canyonlands NP and it was still 108 at 8 pm. The heat was incredible.

 

[2001LC]

Fan clutch and or:

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ramangain]

Dry heat is a worse thermal transfer media vs. moist heat (Moab vs. FL). If you don't suffer the issue when back in FL, perhaps you let it be and wait to try to sort it out before your next Moab or similar adventure.

 

[saucebox]

I'm guessing no one else has encountered this issue before? We drove White Rim Road in canyonlands NP and it was still 108 at 8 pm. The heat was incredible.

Oh, definitely. Tons of background and info here: Gas tank building excessive pressure & fuel smell. Dangerous for sure! Why does this happen? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/gas-tank-building-excessive-pressure-fuel-smell-dangerous-for-sure-why-does-this-happen.1214321/. Lots of back and forth, but there doesn't seem to be an easy solution yet, just a couple of folks very fired up about what worked for them.

Yearly occurrence for me as well, living here. It usually takes heat + elevation to do it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[jerryb]

couple of folks very fired up... haha

 

[krispykritter]

Dry heat is a worse thermal transfer media vs. moist heat (Moab vs. FL). If you don't suffer the issue when back in FL, perhaps you let it be and wait to try to sort it out before your next Moab or similar adventure.

Indeed. Fan clutch seems easy enough but since it cools fine in florida, I may not even notice a difference. I checked the engagement of the clutch hot and cold and the resistance to spinning seems similar in both conditions, so that seems like the most likely culprit. I can definitely feel it moving air but the efficiency might be way off, that would be lots harder to measure outside my hotel room!

Oh, definitely. Tons of background and info here: Gas tank building excessive pressure & fuel smell. Dangerous for sure! Why does this happen? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/gas-tank-building-excessive-pressure-fuel-smell-dangerous-for-sure-why-does-this-happen.1214321/. Lots of back and forth, but there doesn't seem to be an easy solution yet, just a couple of folks very fired up about what worked for them.

Yearly occurrence for me as well, living here. It usually takes heat + elevation to do it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I was more referring to the climbing coolant temp gauge rather than the fuel problem. I'm thinking an inline transcooler in the fuel return line would solve that fuel heating problem but no idea the next time I'll have to worry about it. I've never been offroading in moab before, and I imagine it'll be a while before I do it again!

But it was embarrassing to have two jeeps waiting on my bullet-proof 100 to crank up after lunch!