My fellow pavement princesses, mall crawlers and overlander's, I'm happy to make your acquaintance. I come to you at my wits end, and hopeful you all may be able to help me steer the ship.
To preface much of this: I am not a home mechanic. I generally pay for reliable help at a fair price, and expect my mechanics to know (reasonably) the issues at hand and how to fix them.
TLDR: I have spent over $12k in maintenance in the last 24mo, have had a reputable shop install a new Ironman FCP level 3 kit, new rack & pinion + tie rod ends, new upper and lower control arms (front & rear), new torsion bars, new CV axles & companion flanges, extended sway bar links, and have had this thing aligned 5+ times in the last 12mo. It rides like s***, and I'm tired of it. Help.
PS: Sorry for the wall of text. Ive been dealing with this for 2 years, and have some anger to get out.
Background
I purchased a 2006 LX470 in early 2022. It was a pretty well-known rig here in Texas, as the owner was well connected and had it built by one of the most reputable shops in the city. I wont mention shop names, as I don't want anyone's feelings getting hurt as I continue with the story.
This rig is the dream- It is an upgrade to my previous hunting rig, a 1985 Wrangler YJ. When hunting in West Texas, having and enclosed cab is critical due to the dust. After purchasing it, I took it out to the rugged country around Big Bend, and it performed flawlessly. It had everything I needed, I expected that nothing would need to be upgraded as it is a fully built overlanding rig. When I purchased it, here were some of the specs:
The Specs- 2022 after purchase
Triple locking diff's
ARB front locker + air compressor
Electronic locking rear diff
OME lift, foamcell pro shocks
Roof rack
Slee rear bumper, ARB front w/12k winch, Slee skids
Re-geared to 4.88
After purchasing it, I noticed it rode differently than I anticipated. It was a little harder to turn than non-AWD vehicles Ive had in the past, and had a bit of torque steer. They pointed these things out, and I was OK with it at the time. It drove great, was a dream over bumps and rocks, an incredible on & offroad vehicle. Shortly after purchasing it, my family & I took it on a week long road trip into NM, Colorado & Texas. It was perfect.
Shorty after that trip, I started noticing some issues.
The Maintenance I Performed- 2022-2024
DBS (PITA)- the dual battery system started beeping non-stop. Weird, no issues for the first few months of ownership. I did some Ih8mud research and found that the RBM can get fried under high temps (Hey, in NM it was like 110, so under the hood maybe it was 150+?). Over time I ended up removing the RBM which didnt fix the issue. Over time, the in-cab controller ended up just dying, and I let it go, considering the rest of this list, you may understand why.
Bottoming Out: During normal driving conditions, the front end would bottom out to the extent that the wheel would hit the wheel well.
Blinker Fuse- When I would hit bumps, for some reason the blinkers would short out. I replaced 10+ fuses over the course of 6mo, until I pulled out the blinkers and realized they were full of mud.
Rear Squeak- The truck was equipped with Rock-Jock upper & lower adjustable JJ rear control arms/links, and for some reason, the lowers started squeaking like hell. Very quickly after starting squeaking, when I would start & stop, I would feel the truck had an inch or so of play in it. After taking a look with a friend, I realized the lower control arm JJ bushings were worn out, and ordered a replacement from Rockjock. I went through 2 full replacements, countless tearing the lowers off and re-setting the damn circle pin thing in there, and finally said to hell with this.
CV Axles- After a late 2022 west Texas hunt, the front CV's started making alot of noise when turning. Click click click click, anyone who has experienced this sound knows exactly the issue (I didnt at the time).
I called the shop who built it, and said hey, ive got all these issues, can you help me out?
(Here is where it starts to get $$)
$6000 and 2-3 trips later and I have new blinkers, new front upper adjustable control arms, new front lower control arms, companion flanges, new torsion bars, new (non-adjustable) rear lower links (Note that the uppers were still adjustable w/JJ's), and new axle hub flanges. This fixed the play in the rear + squeak, but the click click was still there.
After this, it didnt ride correctly. The torque steer was significantly worse, to the extent that I had to hold the wheel at 9 when gassing it 50%+, because the truck pulled right. They towed it to Lexus, they didnt know what the issue was either.
So, what does a reasonable person do at this point? I simply wanted the truck to drive straight, be mostly comfortable to ride in. The torque steer felt severe enough that I didnt believe it was a safe vehicle to take my family in anymore.
The new mechanic, 2024
Throughout this time, I had been talking to a few folks about my issues. I was well over $5k in maintenance on a weekend vehicle that previously was perfectly running. I assumed, its time to find someone new to take a fresh look at this. I did some diligence, asked around in local groups, and found a highly reputable shop very close to the house. Everyone sung their praises, the shop owner had been working on LC's for 20+ years, and this is all they do.
I take the LX to him, and immediately he starts pointing out the issues that are driving my concerns. All I wanted was:
1- I want this SOB to drive straight. No more torque steer. I researched and found that it could be due to the rack & pinion, maybe we need to replace?
2- This has a great suspension, so I'm told, but it doesn't seem to perform well. It rode like a mix between a Cadillac and a boat, you get the gist. Great for city driving, but not very responsive.
3- Since purchasing, it had a "Whine" at highway speed when under power. When coasting, it goes away. Find this whine, fix it.
His recommendations:
- Install an all new Ironman FCP stage 3 kit w/heavy rear springs due to the armor weight
- He found that there was not previously a diff drop, though I was told there was. He said it needed it due to the lift.
$4k later and we had this installed.
I see it for the first time, looks incredible. No more droop in the front, she feels strong and mighty. I drive it, it drives TERRIBLY. Torque steer is SO bad that if I gas it, the front end will buck so hard that the wheels will chirp. The passenger side front tier will turn inwards so hard that you physically have to restrain the left tire with the wheel.
Im like hey, this isnt going to work. This thing drives like s***.
His recommendation:
- Install an all new rack & pinion. Ok, the damn thing wont drive, so i guess we need to do this
$2200 later and we have this installed
I drive it, its like 50% better, but still drives like crap. He says to drive it for 1000 miles so the suspension can get worn in, and things should take care of themselves.
Things do not take care of themselves. I take it back to him, and we find that the tie rod ends are bad. Replace those. We then find that there are lock-washers installed at the top of the tie-rod ends which allows the upper adjustable control arms to camber back and forth. Remove those.
Where I stand today
The shop wants to replace the front upper adjustable control arms to OEM, non-adjustables and thinks this is the final issue. Im about fed up, and thought I would come to you for help.
2 years ago when I purchased, it rode like a luxury offroad vehicle. Today it rides like a tractor with front lockers engaged, and 2x4's for suspension. Its miserable to drive. The best way to explain it, is that it feels like
1 - the front tires fight eachother. Its like the driver side wants to go right, and the passenger side wants to go left. When turning right into a parking lot, and going UP over a hump, it is pronounced.
2 - The suspension in the front just doesnt feel right. When I go over partitioned speed bumps I have tested this. Go 20mph and only go over on the left side of the vehicle. NBD- rides great. Go on the right side? The front passenger tire will drop down so aggressively that it will make your teeth chatter. I don't understand it.
3- If you lock the tires all the way left or right, in a parking lot, you have to accelerate to get the vehicle to move. IE: The front end is so bound up, you have to gas through it, and the wheels will chirp on the pavement. This simply doesn't seem right.
The 2nd shop has taken measurements of the front and has said that the axle to wheel well measurement is perfectly within spec.
Any thoughts? Hopeful someone has ideas.
Thanks!
To preface much of this: I am not a home mechanic. I generally pay for reliable help at a fair price, and expect my mechanics to know (reasonably) the issues at hand and how to fix them.
TLDR: I have spent over $12k in maintenance in the last 24mo, have had a reputable shop install a new Ironman FCP level 3 kit, new rack & pinion + tie rod ends, new upper and lower control arms (front & rear), new torsion bars, new CV axles & companion flanges, extended sway bar links, and have had this thing aligned 5+ times in the last 12mo. It rides like s***, and I'm tired of it. Help.
PS: Sorry for the wall of text. Ive been dealing with this for 2 years, and have some anger to get out.
Background
I purchased a 2006 LX470 in early 2022. It was a pretty well-known rig here in Texas, as the owner was well connected and had it built by one of the most reputable shops in the city. I wont mention shop names, as I don't want anyone's feelings getting hurt as I continue with the story.
This rig is the dream- It is an upgrade to my previous hunting rig, a 1985 Wrangler YJ. When hunting in West Texas, having and enclosed cab is critical due to the dust. After purchasing it, I took it out to the rugged country around Big Bend, and it performed flawlessly. It had everything I needed, I expected that nothing would need to be upgraded as it is a fully built overlanding rig. When I purchased it, here were some of the specs:
The Specs- 2022 after purchase
Triple locking diff's
ARB front locker + air compressor
Electronic locking rear diff
OME lift, foamcell pro shocks
Roof rack
Slee rear bumper, ARB front w/12k winch, Slee skids
Re-geared to 4.88
After purchasing it, I noticed it rode differently than I anticipated. It was a little harder to turn than non-AWD vehicles Ive had in the past, and had a bit of torque steer. They pointed these things out, and I was OK with it at the time. It drove great, was a dream over bumps and rocks, an incredible on & offroad vehicle. Shortly after purchasing it, my family & I took it on a week long road trip into NM, Colorado & Texas. It was perfect.
Shorty after that trip, I started noticing some issues.
The Maintenance I Performed- 2022-2024
DBS (PITA)- the dual battery system started beeping non-stop. Weird, no issues for the first few months of ownership. I did some Ih8mud research and found that the RBM can get fried under high temps (Hey, in NM it was like 110, so under the hood maybe it was 150+?). Over time I ended up removing the RBM which didnt fix the issue. Over time, the in-cab controller ended up just dying, and I let it go, considering the rest of this list, you may understand why.
Bottoming Out: During normal driving conditions, the front end would bottom out to the extent that the wheel would hit the wheel well.
Blinker Fuse- When I would hit bumps, for some reason the blinkers would short out. I replaced 10+ fuses over the course of 6mo, until I pulled out the blinkers and realized they were full of mud.
Rear Squeak- The truck was equipped with Rock-Jock upper & lower adjustable JJ rear control arms/links, and for some reason, the lowers started squeaking like hell. Very quickly after starting squeaking, when I would start & stop, I would feel the truck had an inch or so of play in it. After taking a look with a friend, I realized the lower control arm JJ bushings were worn out, and ordered a replacement from Rockjock. I went through 2 full replacements, countless tearing the lowers off and re-setting the damn circle pin thing in there, and finally said to hell with this.
CV Axles- After a late 2022 west Texas hunt, the front CV's started making alot of noise when turning. Click click click click, anyone who has experienced this sound knows exactly the issue (I didnt at the time).
I called the shop who built it, and said hey, ive got all these issues, can you help me out?
(Here is where it starts to get $$)
$6000 and 2-3 trips later and I have new blinkers, new front upper adjustable control arms, new front lower control arms, companion flanges, new torsion bars, new (non-adjustable) rear lower links (Note that the uppers were still adjustable w/JJ's), and new axle hub flanges. This fixed the play in the rear + squeak, but the click click was still there.
After this, it didnt ride correctly. The torque steer was significantly worse, to the extent that I had to hold the wheel at 9 when gassing it 50%+, because the truck pulled right. They towed it to Lexus, they didnt know what the issue was either.
So, what does a reasonable person do at this point? I simply wanted the truck to drive straight, be mostly comfortable to ride in. The torque steer felt severe enough that I didnt believe it was a safe vehicle to take my family in anymore.
The new mechanic, 2024
Throughout this time, I had been talking to a few folks about my issues. I was well over $5k in maintenance on a weekend vehicle that previously was perfectly running. I assumed, its time to find someone new to take a fresh look at this. I did some diligence, asked around in local groups, and found a highly reputable shop very close to the house. Everyone sung their praises, the shop owner had been working on LC's for 20+ years, and this is all they do.
I take the LX to him, and immediately he starts pointing out the issues that are driving my concerns. All I wanted was:
1- I want this SOB to drive straight. No more torque steer. I researched and found that it could be due to the rack & pinion, maybe we need to replace?
2- This has a great suspension, so I'm told, but it doesn't seem to perform well. It rode like a mix between a Cadillac and a boat, you get the gist. Great for city driving, but not very responsive.
3- Since purchasing, it had a "Whine" at highway speed when under power. When coasting, it goes away. Find this whine, fix it.
His recommendations:
- Install an all new Ironman FCP stage 3 kit w/heavy rear springs due to the armor weight
- He found that there was not previously a diff drop, though I was told there was. He said it needed it due to the lift.
$4k later and we had this installed.
I see it for the first time, looks incredible. No more droop in the front, she feels strong and mighty. I drive it, it drives TERRIBLY. Torque steer is SO bad that if I gas it, the front end will buck so hard that the wheels will chirp. The passenger side front tier will turn inwards so hard that you physically have to restrain the left tire with the wheel.
Im like hey, this isnt going to work. This thing drives like s***.
His recommendation:
- Install an all new rack & pinion. Ok, the damn thing wont drive, so i guess we need to do this
$2200 later and we have this installed
I drive it, its like 50% better, but still drives like crap. He says to drive it for 1000 miles so the suspension can get worn in, and things should take care of themselves.
Things do not take care of themselves. I take it back to him, and we find that the tie rod ends are bad. Replace those. We then find that there are lock-washers installed at the top of the tie-rod ends which allows the upper adjustable control arms to camber back and forth. Remove those.
Where I stand today
The shop wants to replace the front upper adjustable control arms to OEM, non-adjustables and thinks this is the final issue. Im about fed up, and thought I would come to you for help.
2 years ago when I purchased, it rode like a luxury offroad vehicle. Today it rides like a tractor with front lockers engaged, and 2x4's for suspension. Its miserable to drive. The best way to explain it, is that it feels like
1 - the front tires fight eachother. Its like the driver side wants to go right, and the passenger side wants to go left. When turning right into a parking lot, and going UP over a hump, it is pronounced.
2 - The suspension in the front just doesnt feel right. When I go over partitioned speed bumps I have tested this. Go 20mph and only go over on the left side of the vehicle. NBD- rides great. Go on the right side? The front passenger tire will drop down so aggressively that it will make your teeth chatter. I don't understand it.
3- If you lock the tires all the way left or right, in a parking lot, you have to accelerate to get the vehicle to move. IE: The front end is so bound up, you have to gas through it, and the wheels will chirp on the pavement. This simply doesn't seem right.
The 2nd shop has taken measurements of the front and has said that the axle to wheel well measurement is perfectly within spec.
Any thoughts? Hopeful someone has ideas.
Thanks!
