2006 LX470: From Elation to Deflation- I need some help

[excessive]

after messing around with several different setups, and wasting a lot of time and money - I eventually lowered mine back to ( close to) stock ride height because it just felt terrible w/ too much lift. I am happy with a near stock ride height and a softer suspension, the rig is still extremely capable at stock ride height.

 

[2000UZJ]

21.5” Hub to Fender, no need to align right now. Go out and put some miles on it. When I bought mine, the front was at 23” and it rode, and drove like a dump truck.

The front end of your truck is way too high.

 

[elhombre]

The problem seems to have started after the first shop "fixed " your clicking front end. You don't mention a CV axle being replaced, or at least an R&R of the original one. This seems strange to me.

From your pics, the tie rod ends are different manufactures, and the left is all beat up by someone replacing it. Strange to only replace one side.

"
1 - the front tires fight eachother. Its like the driver side wants to go right, and the passenger side wants to go left. When turning right into a parking lot, and going UP over a hump, it is pronounced.
2 - The suspension in the front just doesnt feel right. When I go over partitioned speed bumps I have tested this. Go 20mph and only go over on the left side of the vehicle. NBD- rides great. Go on the right side? The front passenger tire will drop down so aggressively that it will make your teeth chatter. I don't understand it.
3- If you lock the tires all the way left or right, in a parking lot, you have to accelerate to get the vehicle to move. IE: The front end is so bound up, you have to gas through it, and the wheels will chirp on the pavement. This simply doesn't seem right."


#1 and #3 sure sound like the front lockers are activated/ locked up. It is a lot of stress to be driving on pavement with front lockers on. And/Or, as mentioned before, if the center diff is locked up too it can cause the front tires to chirp. This would also cause it to steer weird on pavement while making a sharp turn.

I would check to make sure the center Diff light comes on and off when the button on the dash is activated as a bulb check. (I am assuming your 2006 has the center diff button on the dash like the my 2004). To check if the front diff is locked up, get on some gravel and turn it on. There should be a huge difference in how the steering wheel behaves between the front being locked or unlocked when making turns n both directions. With the locker "on", the steering wheel will want to always go in a straight line , and thus return to this centered position when you let go of the steering wheel in a turn.

I would take up the offer of one of fine people here on the board to look at your rig. It sure sounds like the shops you use are just throwing parts at it

 

[caffecapri]

Messaged you as I’m in college station if you need a hand. I used TEQ off road for my alignment in Houston. I’m so curious as to what your issue ends up being.

 

[4Beast]

As others have said, go with lighter torsion bars and more droop, and I would also add extended bump stops (I believe I use the Wheelers Offroad ones for the Tundra).
I'd have to look at mine, but it seems like your tie rods are also at a more extreme angle than mine, maybe it's just the picture? I also feel like I have more torque steer than I used to have, and am trying to figure out the cause of that (perhaps a worn rack?).
I do love the community looking out for you though.

 

[Live to Ski]

No help here

To avoid said problem, I always buy bone stock rigs and do any mods one at a time on my dime....paid to professionals (I know enough to shoot myself in the foot).

Even then, trouble can happen but at least you know where to look.

Hope you get it figured out

 

[Exiled]

I think the wisdom of the gang is spot on, your truck is very tall in the front. I just measured mine, sitting at 20.75" on OME torsion bars. I'd start there and see if you see/feel any improvements. When I first installed the suspension kit on my truck I cranked the torsion bars to even out the rake, and the truck rode like crap.

 

[ROAM]

2nd pic. Your upper ball joint is covered in grease and looks to be separated. Way too much flex either way. It's obvious the front is too high. The ironman torsion bars are fine. I have them with no front bumper/armor. Need the 21.5" fender to hub to be more or less there. 22" is okay but pushing it. Crazy that another half inch matters so much but it does. Suspension geometry is a fickle bitch.

Another thing of note. Stage 1, 2 or 3 has nothing to do with lift height. The number signifies the included components that make up the kit. Stage 3 is simply every component option available.

Yet another thing to consider. MANY alignment shops do not understand how to correctly set these trucks up. Find a shop with 60 yr old tech. He'll be able to get it within spec using OEM upper control arms. Not many shops can do that.
Bottom line is unless things are dialed it and it's properly aligned, it'll ride like poop.

I hate to criticize but buying a 20+ year old truck with little to no knowledge of how it functions and not having access to someone you trust who does...this kinda is what you get. That being said, MUD is a resource as valuable as a trusted, GOOD mechanic.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Ok, went out this AM and measured:

Driver ground to fender: 38.5
Driver hub to fender: 23

Passenger ground to fender: 38.75
Passenger hub to fender: 23.5

As you can see from pics before and now, the front is considerably higher. But, supposedly within the hub/fender spec ratio?

View attachment 3604968

I just have to say I love your Gen1 slim edition Safari Snorkel. Sadly these have been discontinued and can’t find one anymore..

 

[Exiled]

Once you get your stuff sorted out, I want to see better pictures of that cargo tray mounted to the front, that looks like a great solution for hunting trips! I have one that mounts to the back but the visibility is terrible, last year I lost a pig on a rough ranch road and had to backtrack to go retrieve it!

 

[Africaster]

The problem seems to have started after the first shop "fixed " your clicking front end. You don't mention a CV axle being replaced, or at least an R&R of the original one. This seems strange to me.

From your pics, the tie rod ends are different manufactures, and the left is all beat up by someone replacing it. Strange to only replace one side.

"
1 - the front tires fight eachother. Its like the driver side wants to go right, and the passenger side wants to go left. When turning right into a parking lot, and going UP over a hump, it is pronounced.
2 - The suspension in the front just doesnt feel right. When I go over partitioned speed bumps I have tested this. Go 20mph and only go over on the left side of the vehicle. NBD- rides great. Go on the right side? The front passenger tire will drop down so aggressively that it will make your teeth chatter. I don't understand it.
3- If you lock the tires all the way left or right, in a parking lot, you have to accelerate to get the vehicle to move. IE: The front end is so bound up, you have to gas through it, and the wheels will chirp on the pavement. This simply doesn't seem right."


#1 and #3 sure sound like the front lockers are activated/ locked up. It is a lot of stress to be driving on pavement with front lockers on. And/Or, as mentioned before, if the center diff is locked up too it can cause the front tires to chirp. This would also cause it to steer weird on pavement while making a sharp turn.

I would check to make sure the center Diff light comes on and off when the button on the dash is activated as a bulb check. (I am assuming your 2006 has the center diff button on the dash like the my 2004). To check if the front diff is locked up, get on some gravel and turn it on. There should be a huge difference in how the steering wheel behaves between the front being locked or unlocked when making turns n both directions. With the locker "on", the steering wheel will want to always go in a straight line , and thus return to this centered position when you let go of the steering wheel in a turn.

I would take up the offer of one of fine people here on the board to look at your rig. It sure sounds like the shops you use are just throwing parts at it

This is a good call and cheap/easy to check

 

[TexasLex]

In my experience, at 23-23.5” front center of hub to fender lip, you have very limited droop (down travel), combine this with oversized torsion bars, which limits compression (up travel), and you end up with a very uncomfortable ride.

A 21.5” front center of hub to fender lip measurement, is typically on the ragged edge of reason. The factory measurement is usually around 19.5”.

If this vehicle was mine, I’d be looking at going back to the OME torsion bars, and reduce the resting point of the front suspension to 21.5”. YMMV

This.

I now understand what "Droop" means, and this describes one of the main issues I havent been able to get over. This describes the feeling I get when going over speed bumps, or any sharp drop for that reason. It drops and stops so hard that it is like holy crap what is that about.

I am going to drop it down to 21.5 to start, as many have mentioned, and will see if that helps to fix the issue. I will also respond, for everyones clarity, what the CURRENT droop is by lifting it up and answering the droop/ center hub to fender question.

 

[TexasLex]

I took a video, but it doesn’t look like I can attach it here.

Drive hub to fender on ground: 23
Driver hub to fender when lifted: 24.5

Passenger hub to fender on ground: 23.5
Passenger hub to fender when lifted: 24

Wow. That makes sense why it rides like a tractor with 2x4’s for shocks.

 

[Patassa]

The iron man TBs should be fine once you get proper droop. I dont have a front bumper but I do have a front wench and those bars have been no problem for me.

 

[jLB]

Bottoming Out: During normal driving conditions, the front end would bottom out to the extent that the wheel would hit the wheel well.

To me, it sounded like you started down this suspension upgrade path, because of a misunderstanding about why you were experiencing tire/fender interference?

 

[2000UZJ]

Lowering the front will help immensely. I would take an old toothbrush and make you clean the TB bolts, then clean them again and make sure they are clean. The last thing you need is a little grit making it's way in the TB anchor arm and jacking the threads up.

It's not the same for each truck, but I recall 4 turns of the bolt = .5", however I'd suggest doing 6 turns, and then going for a quick drive and checking the height. Wheels have to be off the ground to adjust in my opinion.

 

[TexasLex]

To me, it sounded like you started down this suspension upgrade path, because of a misunderstanding about why you were experiencing tire/fender interference?

Pretty much, which led to more and more maintenance and changes, and more issues.

 

[jLB]

Pretty much, which led to more and more maintenance and changes, and more issues.

Cranking the torsion bars (or installing thicker/stiffer torsion bars) really doesn’t resolve this issue. It doesn’t change the travel, it just makes the suspension harder to compress, making tire/fender collisions less frequent.

So by fixing the ride issues, you’re going to be back to your original problem, that started all of this.

 

[GerLC100]

And don't forget the great and open offers that experienced guys check out your situation!

 

[TexasLex]

Update: I took 6 turns out of the driver side TB, and 9 turns out of the passenger side TB. It certainly rides MUCH better, and the turning issue seems to be fixed. Im sitting at ~21.5” on both sides. Will plan to drive it for the next week and then reset it again to 21.5.

A few answers to questions that have been asked:

- the CVs were rebuilt and recertified here in Houston. Lifetime guarantee btw, if anyone needs CVs rebuilt vs purchasing new.

- the center locker is not locked, however just to confirm, I did go ahead and hit it yesterday. That is definitely a different feeling than what I feel. That’s a “don’t pass go”, feeling. Lights illuminated as expected.

- the “wheeless trailer” or basket as I call it. This thing has gotten more attention than the cruiser, tbh. Everyone loves it. I purchased it from Buccees a few years ago, built by Old country BBQ here in Texas. That thing is extremely sturdy. Way bigger than ones you buy at academy, strong enough to hold the LX in the air on big drops, and I believe I paid $130 for it. I have attached a few more pics, highly recommend this setup. Bonus pic of the old YJ out in West Tx. I ended up adding a front receiver as well, for the same reason.

It has also allowed us to put coolers up front for long trips, opening up the back end significantly.