Does the Noco seem like a quality unit? I've had one on an amazon list for a while but haven't pulled the trigger on it still. One of the jump packs that I can charge and leave in the rig as a backup since I have only the single battery.
Builds 2001 LX470 build LEGUSY (1 Viewer)
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- Thread starter
- #302
It seems like a quality unit so far with 3500 reviews and 4.5 stars. Only time will tell and I have only been using it a few weeks. Of course, I have to remember to plug it in, but it slowly does the job. You should probably check that unit regularly to make sure it stays fully charged if your going to depend on it.
- Thread starter
- #304
I noticed a squeaking sound coming from the OME stone guards rubbing on the lower shock bolts. I've seen this on a few occasions by now. I think the guards offer some added protection for the shocks, but I don't think they serve much purpose covering the bolts. The covers get bent around the bolts after various contact with rocks, and then they rub and squeak. It seems like they might protect the bolt head from some damage, but after enough time the guard might be more trouble accessing the bolts than the alternative. The guards didn't seem to save the washers from much damage either. So rather than bending the guards back from the lower bolts again, this time I just cut them off.
Here are the old bolts with bent washers.
The tail pipe was a bit bent as well so I trimmed it while I was at it. It may even be a bit louder now, but I've come to embrace the roar.
As you can see, the rear bumper has touched down a bit.
Here are the old bolts with bent washers.
The tail pipe was a bit bent as well so I trimmed it while I was at it. It may even be a bit louder now, but I've come to embrace the roar.
As you can see, the rear bumper has touched down a bit.
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- Thread starter
- #305
There was a bit of movement at the rear shock lower bushing. I thought this might have been due to a worn bushing so I replaced it and realized no noticeable improvement. I also didn't see any significant wear on the bushing, so I'm going to consider it normal operation.
While I replaced the bushing, I also replaced the old bolt. I welded some 1.75 tubing to the washers to help them stand up to a bit more abuse.
While I replaced the bushing, I also replaced the old bolt. I welded some 1.75 tubing to the washers to help them stand up to a bit more abuse.
- Thread starter
- #306
I diagnosed a noise coming from the alternator, which I had upgraded to a 150A Sequoia unit about 2 1/2 years ago. So I made use of the lifetime warranty and swapped it out with another unit. While I was in there, I noticed a bit of coolant buildup around the thermostat housing inside the lower radiator hose. The hose didn't look too bad, but since I carried a new spare, I decided to change it out. I figure the used one was working fine for use as a spare and I'd rather have the new unit in service. So I replaced the T-stat as well and saved the old one for a spare too. That job took care of the noise, but got me reevaluating some of the other hoses, parts and spares I carry.
I also cleaned the throttle body while I was in there.
I replenished most of the fluids with new coolant, transmission, and gear oils. I also changed the oil and sent out another sample.
Then I gave it another good check over, servicing the driveshafts and checking for any worn or loose parts.
I also cleaned the throttle body while I was in there.
I replenished most of the fluids with new coolant, transmission, and gear oils. I also changed the oil and sent out another sample.
Then I gave it another good check over, servicing the driveshafts and checking for any worn or loose parts.
- Thread starter
- #307
I replaced my Trasharoo and put it too good use picking up trash along the rally. These things are great for a bunch of different things that you don't want stinking up the cab.
Here's a video featuring them in the rally.
Here's a video featuring them in the rally.
Nice thread, I'm definitely going to apply some of your experiences to suit my case of use. Time to learn to weld I guess.
- Thread starter
- #310
Kydex wheel well liner.
This project might take a bit of explaining. Bare with me and let me know what you think.
There might not be a real need for this, but the idea kept kicking around for long enough, that things moved to the next level, who knows how far it will go, but here I am for now. In this case, the issue starts with the right front wheel well. There is an A/C line that is somewhat exposed. Lots of mud and rocks gets kicked up off the tire and packed in around the lines, into the frame body mount, the underside of the body and the outriggers to the sliders. I like to get my truck clean after it gets dirty, so I've been pretty thorough about spraying all that debris out when I wash the truck. As you probably know, its not the easiest place to get clean and its easy for mud and rocks to hang out there and all along the underside of the body outside of the frame(even worse with all the AHC stuff in there). I had a friend mention that the rock trapped around his A/c lines caused a leak and he had to replace the line(not sure how common that is, but I can see it being an issue). After seeing how the rocks from my tires can really beat on the undercarriage parts, I decided that it would be nice to have some added protection for the A/c lines and to help keep some of the mud and debris out of that area.
I have some previous experience from my FJ40 making some fender liners out of Kydex to accommodate the tube fenders that I built. Here is a quick example of that.
I had some remaining .090 Kydex sheet so I used that for this project. I made a rough template and transferred it to the material and got started with a few priorities in mind.
I wanted to use existing mounts on the body- no modification of the body or frame(no cutting or drilling holes).
I wanted to leave the stock fender liner and body trim complete and in place- that way, if this didn't work right(look or sound right) then it could be removed and I'd be back where I started(-time, +learning something).
I realized that I'd need some additional mounts, so I'd make them with Dzus fasteners at the sliders with some room for the material to flex between the body and the sliders(ie frame). These mounts would be out of the way and allow easy removal.
No mud flaps here, they would probably just get in the way.
Then I made an extension stud to help mount the liner using existing bolt hole in the body.
This project might take a bit of explaining. Bare with me and let me know what you think.
There might not be a real need for this, but the idea kept kicking around for long enough, that things moved to the next level, who knows how far it will go, but here I am for now. In this case, the issue starts with the right front wheel well. There is an A/C line that is somewhat exposed. Lots of mud and rocks gets kicked up off the tire and packed in around the lines, into the frame body mount, the underside of the body and the outriggers to the sliders. I like to get my truck clean after it gets dirty, so I've been pretty thorough about spraying all that debris out when I wash the truck. As you probably know, its not the easiest place to get clean and its easy for mud and rocks to hang out there and all along the underside of the body outside of the frame(even worse with all the AHC stuff in there). I had a friend mention that the rock trapped around his A/c lines caused a leak and he had to replace the line(not sure how common that is, but I can see it being an issue). After seeing how the rocks from my tires can really beat on the undercarriage parts, I decided that it would be nice to have some added protection for the A/c lines and to help keep some of the mud and debris out of that area.
I have some previous experience from my FJ40 making some fender liners out of Kydex to accommodate the tube fenders that I built. Here is a quick example of that.
I had some remaining .090 Kydex sheet so I used that for this project. I made a rough template and transferred it to the material and got started with a few priorities in mind.
I wanted to use existing mounts on the body- no modification of the body or frame(no cutting or drilling holes).
I wanted to leave the stock fender liner and body trim complete and in place- that way, if this didn't work right(look or sound right) then it could be removed and I'd be back where I started(-time, +learning something).
I realized that I'd need some additional mounts, so I'd make them with Dzus fasteners at the sliders with some room for the material to flex between the body and the sliders(ie frame). These mounts would be out of the way and allow easy removal.
No mud flaps here, they would probably just get in the way.
Then I made an extension stud to help mount the liner using existing bolt hole in the body.
- Thread starter
- #311
Extension stud installed. I had cleaned out the mounting bracket for the lines in the past, and I put some silicone in the small nooks to fill and protect those spots.
3 Dzus tabs on the slider.
Kydex cover formed with self ejecting dzus buttons.
Here is the formed cover installed.
3 Dzus tabs on the slider.
Kydex cover formed with self ejecting dzus buttons.
Here is the formed cover installed.
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- Thread starter
- #312
Here are a few more pictures of the fit. I have the clip in the top corner installed now.
It wasn't long before it was put to the test and mud wasn't hard to find.
It looks like this cover is serving its purpose. It actually seems to be keeping out more debris than I expected. I didn't notice any adverse effects like noise, looseness, or fit issues.
It wasn't long before it was put to the test and mud wasn't hard to find.
It looks like this cover is serving its purpose. It actually seems to be keeping out more debris than I expected. I didn't notice any adverse effects like noise, looseness, or fit issues.
- Thread starter
- #314
In this case, I heated it with a heat gun and formed it. I formed certain parts then held them in place, then used the fasteners to keep it in place while I moved on to forming other sections. Its a versatile material that can be reheated and formed again.
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I really like this idea and I love that you chose kydex. It’s a real tough material and I have a 9mm holster made of it that I absolutely love for its corrosion and scratch resistance. How much and where do you buy the sheets of unformed kydex stock?
- Thread starter
- #316
Thanks, I pick it up from a local plastic supplier that I also get ABS, UHMW, etc.. from.
Laird Plastics
It was about $150 for a 4'x8' of .090 IIRC.
Laird Plastics
It was about $150 for a 4'x8' of .090 IIRC.
That looks awesome! My friend trimmed his Tacoma fenders to fit 37s, and I've wondered about trimming 100 fenders to fit 35s without a body lift or bump stop extension... but the issue of fender liners complicates things. This might be a good way around that.
I'd buy one - Thread starter
- #319
@geanes Thanks for the incredible compliment and encouragement. Its still in the R&D stages, and I've already found some minor improvements. Though I don't know that I have the motivation to produce these in larger volumes at this point.
Over the years, I've gone from doing stuff like this full time professionally to part time on the side and more recently as a hobby. Doing it as a hobby allows me more time for other priorities. Its great to be able to share it here as I document the build and help people develop their own projects.
Over the years, I've gone from doing stuff like this full time professionally to part time on the side and more recently as a hobby. Doing it as a hobby allows me more time for other priorities. Its great to be able to share it here as I document the build and help people develop their own projects.
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- Thread starter
- #320
So as you can tell, I got a bit dirty testing out the kydex liner, moving another geocache around, and prerunning for another club trail run.
After getting back, I washed the vehicle several times and still had rocks in the rear brakes. This time, some of the rocks got stuck in the backing plate and between it and the rotor. It was a good opportunity to pull the rear rotors and inspect the parking brake shoes and adjust the parking brake. I also did some more inspection and maintenance on the brakes by flushing some of the fluid through and checking the bleeder screws. Sure enough a couple of the rubber caps were missing. One of the rear bleeder screws seemed seized so I cleaned what threads I could get to and sprayed it down with penetrating lube every now and again for a week or so. Fortunately, the bleeder came loose. The old bleeder was plugged full of sediment and debris, but when I removed it completely, there was some rust built up in the caliper port too. So I pulled the caliper, cleaned the port and installed a new bleeder and caps. After putting it all back together, it worked as intended again. The brake lines looked decent, and I don't seem to have any length issues with the factory hoses, but I wanted to have a spare set on hand just in case. So I decided to spring for a set of the Slee steel braided lines. In hindsight I would have installed them before changing the fluid, but for now I'll hold on to them as spares until I get a chance to change them out.
After getting back, I washed the vehicle several times and still had rocks in the rear brakes. This time, some of the rocks got stuck in the backing plate and between it and the rotor. It was a good opportunity to pull the rear rotors and inspect the parking brake shoes and adjust the parking brake. I also did some more inspection and maintenance on the brakes by flushing some of the fluid through and checking the bleeder screws. Sure enough a couple of the rubber caps were missing. One of the rear bleeder screws seemed seized so I cleaned what threads I could get to and sprayed it down with penetrating lube every now and again for a week or so. Fortunately, the bleeder came loose. The old bleeder was plugged full of sediment and debris, but when I removed it completely, there was some rust built up in the caliper port too. So I pulled the caliper, cleaned the port and installed a new bleeder and caps. After putting it all back together, it worked as intended again. The brake lines looked decent, and I don't seem to have any length issues with the factory hoses, but I wanted to have a spare set on hand just in case. So I decided to spring for a set of the Slee steel braided lines. In hindsight I would have installed them before changing the fluid, but for now I'll hold on to them as spares until I get a chance to change them out.
