Builds 2001 LC HZJ78 AK -RESTORATION- For Overland (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter mt72
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- elocker hzj78 overland build
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- Thread starter
- #322
It was a bit windy this weekend although theses parts are very hidden so they aren’t as much important
prwillard2
SILVER Star
Rear track correction?
Just curious on your decision making process in regards to replacing the axles with DWIZ ones? Was there damage to the other ones? Are the other ones are not up to the challenge of what you have planned for this unit? You just like the name "DWIZ"?
Never heard of or used the DWIZ product, just curious.
Never heard of or used the DWIZ product, just curious.
- Thread starter
- #326
Yes, I have the rear one that offers the track correction! But this one is for the front
- Thread starter
- #327
Just curious on your decision making process in regards to replacing the axles with DWIZ ones? Was there damage to the other ones? Are the other ones are not up to the challenge of what you have planned for this unit? You just like the name "DWIZ"?
Never heard of or used the DWIZ product, just curious.
They are known in Australia for being a direct competition for superior. The housing had no damage at all eighter the axel, I USED RCV FORGED AXEL, not the DWIZ ones PART NUMBER #CVJ2474-VDJ-300M|P2 TOY LC VDJ 30T SET 300M
The housing is from a VDJ from the V8 model and with my radius arms from Superior the angle was too much and would of damage the bushing in a few rides therefore we went back to the drawing table and came up with this housing (VDJ SWAP on a HZJ78 CHASSIS)
The other housing is still good and I might sell it to someone good enough to weld the brackets at the good spot!
Dziz was incredible with the service much much better than Superior in my experience!
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Well you are certainly not sparing any expense on this build that is for sure! Going to be a beautiful ride to be sure!
- Thread starter
- #329
The expanse is high but it’s gonna be a home one day once completed
I stop counting way back
- Thread starter
- #333
Receive all bolt to torque the diff center, then 3 bolts in new studs wasn’t gripping 
had to remove those 3 what a nightmare !
Now but everything back properly patiently waiting
Amazing insight on this forum found some
Drain plugs very much handy
had to remove those 3 what a nightmare !Now but everything back properly patiently waiting
Amazing insight on this forum found some
Drain plugs very much handy
DamoPeru
SILVER Star
Wicked build mate, lovely work. Where did you get that key chain?
- Thread starter
- #335
DamoPeru
SILVER Star
thanks mate... though that's a bugger, I don't do IG
- Thread starter
- #337
Try this email Maybe : tenpadesukedo09@gmail.com
DamoPeru
SILVER Star
what a legend, thanks dude!
- Thread starter
- #339
This weekend my brother came in we fitted back the whole front end it’s way better radius arm are well aligned!
We pre fitted the gull wing windows I love it very nice quality
The windows are not permanently installed I used 50 5/32 Cleco Sheet Metal Fasteners to hold them and then drill everything in place to put the urathan and river after great too
We pre fitted the gull wing windows I love it very nice quality
The windows are not permanently installed I used 50 5/32 Cleco Sheet Metal Fasteners to hold them and then drill everything in place to put the urathan and river after great too
DamoPeru
SILVER Star
hey mate, i installed those same windows, but i have some advice.
the first time i installed them flush like you have, but as you see they are quite inset... from the outside they sink right in and sort of look weird compared to factory, and on the inside they protrude a way into the cabin space. I wasn't happy with that.
so what i ended up doing was getting about 15x15mm (can't remember exactly, might have been slightly thicker) strips of square waterproof closed-cell foam, and I used stainless nylock nuts and bolts (and black nylon washers to separate from the aluminum) to evenly compress the foam seal so that the window exterior sits flush with the body... it looks heaps better and gives you 10mm extra inside. With this method I didn't even use any glue or sealant, the compressed closed cell foam is more than enough for waterproofing and when compressed it's very solid, and might even add some dampening and save the glass if you even have a branch whack it (only guessing!).
I used a white pen to mark the holes for the foam and then punched them to not make a mess of the foam by drilling them.
if all your bolts are the same length, you can measure nut position on the bolt to ensure the compression is even all around. with the nylock nuts free spinning inside, thieves can't unscrew them from the outside. paint them black after if you don't want shiny bits. But i recommend getting a dozen really long bolts, so fitting up to the right compression is easy, then once more or less in place, fill in the rest/replace with shorter bolts and compress precisely alround, that way your excess bolt showing inside is limited to only that necessary.
this also makes them easier to change in the future compared to riveting/gluing, which you are likely to do if this rig is a keeper!
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