- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 186
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- 11,061
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- Boise - Idaho
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- www.snlandcruisers.com
That is a sweeeeet axle!
You should have went Marks portals!
Cheers
You should have went Marks portals!
Cheers
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Don’t give him any ideas…That is a sweeeeet axle!
You should have went Marks portals!
Cheers
Thanks, Mate! We have considered the bolt assembly but we are very concerned about vibration along the road especially since we will be touring the world. From the interior stand point for sure it's not perfect the finition need love ....hey mate, i installed those same windows, but i have some advice.
the first time i installed them flush like you have, but as you see they are quite inset... from the outside they sink right in and sort of look weird compared to factory, and on the inside they protrude a way into the cabin space. I wasn't happy with that.
so what i ended up doing was getting about 15x15mm (can't remember exactly, might have been slightly thicker) strips of square waterproof closed-cell foam, and I used stainless nylock nuts and bolts (and black nylon washers to separate from the aluminum) to evenly compress the foam seal so that the window exterior sits flush with the body... it looks heaps better and gives you 10mm extra inside. With this method I didn't even use any glue or sealant, the compressed closed cell foam is more than enough for waterproofing and when compressed it's very solid, and might even add some dampening and save the glass if you even have a branch whack it (only guessing!).
I used a white pen to mark the holes for the foam and then punched them to not make a mess of the foam by drilling them.
if all your bolts are the same length, you can measure nut position on the bolt to ensure the compression is even all around. with the nylock nuts free spinning inside, thieves can't unscrew them from the outside. paint them black after if you don't want shiny bits. But i recommend getting a dozen really long bolts, so fitting up to the right compression is easy, then once more or less in place, fill in the rest/replace with shorter bolts and compress precisely alround, that way your excess bolt showing inside is limited to only that necessary.
this also makes them easier to change in the future compared to riveting/gluing, which you are likely to do if this rig is a keeper!
That is a sweeeeet axle!
You should have went Marks portals!
Cheers
You've been doing so many things since the last start it's hard to start diagnosing what the root cause may be... But we're all impatient to see this on the road again!!
Thanks for the tip about the smoke!Hey bud, don't worry about the white smoke, that is normal until all the air gets out of the system. What concerns me a little is you are not able to get the primer to draw fuel from the tank. Try taking the rubber hose off just before it goes into the pump and priming again. It will take a lot of pumps if you are drawing it up from the tank, so patience will be required (I think I pumped like 40-50 times through a dry system before the pump got firm).
Once you have fuel coming out from the hose, re-attach to the pump and pump the primer until firm, then fire it up.
To the primer/filter housing, you have one line coming from the tank - this should be connected to the front line on the housing, and the line towards the back of the housing should go to the line across the firewall that goes to your fuel pump.Thanks for the tip about the smoke!
Would you guys have a photo of the hoses on the fuel filter and the other tank?
I also spotted another leak that I will fix. I tried pouring fuel again directly to the hose (fuel line) this made him start for 2-3 minutes then dead...
Yes, yours is definitely different, as you have a second filter, and probably a second tank. I only have one of each. However the concepts and physics are the same. Rule out each item and line, one at a time. Somewhere, something is not allowing the fuel to the filter and on to the pump as you expressed earlier. We know your fuel pump works as when you provide it with fuel, then it runs fine, albeit for a limited time.Thanks
We have different set up I believe my fuel line from main tank runs through this first compartment then in the fuel filter
View attachment 3365561
i am not able to prime the fuel, maybe the second tank is not working properly it’s not been change or cleaned I need to pull it out tomorrow and check ! Because when the pour fuel directly into the pump truck start but ran out of the fuel my presumptionYes, yours is definitely different, as you have a second filter, and probably a second tank. I only have one of each. However the concepts and physics are the same. Rule out each item and line, one at a time. Somewhere, something is not allowing the fuel to the filter and on to the pump as you expressed earlier. We know your fuel pump works as when you provide it with fuel, then it runs fine, albeit for a limited time.
What happens when you connect the line from the source/tank directly to the main primer/filter housing that provides the fuel to the pump? Are you able to prime the fuel then?
your fuel filter with heater housing is not OEM, at least not OEM for the 70 series. I'd replace just that with the OEM part first before touching anything else. if you need the OEM filter/heater part number, you can get it from a JDM HZJ77fuel filter
the way i have it, the bolts are under pressure from the foam compression, and i used nyloc nuts anyway. they've been travelling around the sh1te roads of Peru for the last couple of years and all good, no movement, squeaks or need for adjustment. honestly I think there are so many bolts that these are not going to come loose regardless of however you fix them, especially as you'll have something to seal it, so I wouldn't make vibrations the reason for permanently riveting them, and if you do that make sure you use a s*** ton of flexible sealant to get some dampening separation, as if these are essentially 'at one' with the sheet metal, you might actually get vibration transfer into the gullwing itself.Thanks, Mate! We have considered the bolt assembly but we are very concerned about vibration along the road especially since we will be touring the world. From the interior stand point for sure it's not perfect the finition need love ....
30 mins is not right. Something is restricting the flow. Even with a dry system, and the extra filter, 5 - 10mins is all it should take. Like there is a bend in a fuel line somewhere pinching the flow, or something is not connected properly.Prime the hell out of it after probably 30 minutes of getting fuel to come out! Started the truck it's running but choke at some point, I will run another test without the prefilter and see what happens...