200 Series Engine Seized at 58,000 miles ?? What to do? (1 Viewer)

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Thanks for the input. I'd love to fix her and keep her if it was $10k- agree!
Unfortunately, I'm having trouble finding ANY used engines (or they have high mileage ). If anyone has recommendations on reputable places to get one, I'd love the info :)

check for tundra 5.7s - they are everywhere
 
I got 66 results on Ebay when I searched for "toyota tundra 5.7 engine". Try any salvage yard.
 
IMO, there are enough broken valve spring/dropped valve stories around the various platforms to call BS on they've never seen it.

We all like to think of Landcruiser engines as bulletproof but I rebuilt my 3FE (unknownhistory though) and then built a 2FE. 3FE cranks are cast not forged like 2F cranks and can tend to crack at the snout. Toyota design goal for the 1FZ was to go 300k miles between overhauls and be able to be overhauled 2 - a 900k lifespan in theory. But how many do? Toyota certainly had a rep in the '90s about rate of head gasket failures as well.

And let's talk about domestic engines. Go to Youtube and search for "I do cars". The guy buys junk engines off auctions and strips them down for salvage parts. Its quite entertaining and enlightening to listen to him talk about the patterns of failures through different generations of a given manufacturer's engines.

Unfortunately, it happens. That doesn't make it less sucky though. It might make it more sucky. Sorry.
 
I would have it fixed if I was in your position, if you intend on keeping the vehicle long term. Keep in mind the diminished value of a motor swapped vehicle and the overall cost of swapping out the 3UR.
If you can turn a wrench, it's a fairly straightforward. I think there was a thread on here of someone who did the Tundra to URJ200 swap.
If I was in Utah still I'd drive out for the week and help. Hike Vail trails and wrench on Cruisers sounds like a vacation.
 
I searched on Tundra forums and theres dozens of threads of complete engine failure in the 5.7L from a broken spring happening within warranty and over 120k. My LS460 1UR-FSE (basically the same engine as the 5.7L but for a car) had a valve spring recall to prevent this exact thing from happening. I've also seen dozens of 5.7L tundras on fb marketplace and craigslist with failed motors and ad saying it needs a new motor on otherwise decent looking Tundras.

I thought tundra engines would be a fair bit cheaper than the prices now, but similar mile engines are going upwards of $6-8k! Damn these motors are expensive used! I thought they'd be slightly more $ than 2uz 4.7s but even motors with over 150k miles are pricey!

I would not go with a reman, no way, the tolerances won't be the same as factory. Had a buddy who went with a reman Hemi 5.7L and out of the box it had a valve ticking. Couldn't be warrantied because it was still running and no codes.

Also, there's the stigma of having an engine in there that isn't original/vin matched, especially with a Land Cruiser. It's going to take a value hit because a tundra drop in would be an american 3ur and not a japanese 3ur.

You didn't hear this from me as this isn't the most ethical thing to do and I might get fownvoted , but one option might be * get a cheaper end higher mileage 5.7L, drop it in, then send it off to Carvana/Carmax as a clean low mileage cruiser and start your search for another.

At least for me, unless I originally got the cruiser for super cheap, it would help me sleep easier at night that my motor is the original one that came from the Japanese factory, or at least a Japanese 3UR from a 200 or Lx570. Not that there's anything wrong with a 5.7L though from a Tundra.
 
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What about the motor from that wrecked 2020 HE 200 on here a few pages back on the 200 pic thread?
 
unfortunately, they're telling me the tundra and sequoia engines can't be used.
They're not a direct drop inbis why you're being told that, I think the intake manifold, secondary air, and oil pan need to be swapped over for starters among other stuff.
 
unfortunately, they're telling me the tundra and sequoia engines can't be used.
They might have a different oil pan and pickup, or other bits on the outside that are still good in your engine and can be swapped over. You need a good independent mechanic and a good used engine from a low mileage crashed tundra or sequoia and you will be good to go. Forget this dealer unless Toyota comes up with more money.
 
I have 1st Owner records showing serviced every 5k miles at a Dealership up to 30k miles, then serviced at local mechanics. I bought with 49k miles.
Excellent condition- super clean- people think it's new.
Spring valve on cylinder 5 broke in half, got wedged inside the cylinder, seized engine. They've never seen it happen before and have no idea why it happened.

Corporate has offered now to pay $1,000 in goodwill...... since I am within the mileage, but outside the powertrain warranty age. I guess that is something.

Did the dealership suggest the engine was not maintained properly or take a guess at any cause, or did they just shrug and act like these things can happen?

I get Toyota owes nothing outside the warranty period but $1k in good will on a $17k bill to fix a $70k truck famous for reliability seems like a smack in the face.
 
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Did the dealership suggest the engine was not maintained properly or take a guess at any cause, or did they just shrug and act like these things can happen?

I get Toyota owes nothing outside the warranty period but $1k in good will on a $17k bill to fix a $70k truck famous for reliability seems like a smack in the face.
The dealership went to bat for me - told HQ I am a great long term customer (15 years), as well as telling them it is a super clean, well maintained vehicle and engine. They saw no abuse or reason for this to occur. They've never even seen it happen before.
Yeah, I am pretty disappointed in the $1k - but better than $0
 

From the thread:

Its all 97% plug an play.

  • The '08 LC harness is all compatible with the '17 engine; everything plugs in except the oil level sensor in the upper oilpan; the tundra engine did not have the sensor available - we bypassed to avoid a code or warning light.
  • In the accessory side; I ended up using the LC Starter, Alternator, Compressor, PS Pump and oil cooler; Tundra starter is smaller and did not fit the transmission, Alternator amp rating was also lower on the tundra one; and AC Compressor is different, so we used the LC one.
  • Oil dipstick is different; it ended up located close to the coolant reservoir; not the best location, but its functional.
Everything else was fully compatible; engine fired right up, no codes, nothing wrong so far.
 
The dealership went to bat for me - told HQ I am a great long term customer (15 years), as well as telling them it is a super clean, well maintained vehicle and engine. They saw no abuse or reason for this to occur. They've never even seen it happen before.
Yeah, I am pretty disappointed in the $1k - but better than $0

Not an enviable position. Good luck with whichever route you go.
 

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