Builds 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

On another note - bought the metal to build this:

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1420079787.788030.jpg


Thanks to the good folks here who gave out the plans for free:

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1420079826.347055.jpg


I know why a rotisserie cost $1500. The steel alone was $550, and I've not bought the casters or the nuts & bolts.

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1420079921.212397.jpg
 
Last edited:
It's a method of delivering any coating. From my limited research(3 kids under 7) it can be used to deliver primer or a finish coat of "paint". I have only briefly talked to him about it but he was saying it will outperform powder for corrosion and was another if not a better option because it reaches the blind areas of whatever is being dipped.

Another benefit I see would be for the tub. We have a company in Toledo that is doing large, non acidic rust removal dip. Pair that with the e-coat and I will be able to remove all rust (inside seams, body mounts etc.) and then with the ecoat protect where a spray gun can't reach. Then do my body work and paint.

The main reason that I have been leaning towards the powder is the cost savings. I do not have a place to sandblast my frame. Our powder coaters are within a few hundred of just having it sandblasted. They also include the zinc rinse for that price.
Pay me now or pay me later-usually twice as much--go with the galv/e-coat
 
Sarge,

It's the (poorly drawn) tubes on the ends. You have to do some math and DaVinci brainwork to find the center of gravity with the tub mounted. When you find that it will rotate. I'm not sure how Vae will figure that out but I'm POSITIVE he will.

Here's a better view to show how it works and then an image of what I suggested he buy. Not sure he has the room for that one though.

RotisserieFinal1.jpg
post-6600-14150823165051.jpg
 
I prefer another design that's out there somewhere - it uses two long engine hoist rams to lift and lower the body , would be stable if you're anywhere close to weight centerline . I just build or engineer things on the fly from pictures , seems to work ...
I'll have to load up the pics of the 12 ton benchtop press brake I just finished - works great on small parts .
Sarge
 
That does nothing in the "help department" for balancing the rig. You still have to balance it the same way. Man power.
 
Bought nuts and bolts for the rotisserie $175 for those, a good drill bit, and a chop saw blade.

Total cost now about $725 USD.

The 3/4" nuts and bolt combo are about $4 ea in grade 8.

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1420230796.287569.jpg
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1420230806.843904.jpg
 
I found a couple on eBay US for around $950 + freight so still around 1100. Others are over $1500.

Wow with AUD to USD conversion $700 is about $570 US.
 
Last edited:
Here is a link to a company that makes them here in Alberta, if you watch the video and look at the pictures, you will see how it is built to find the center balance point of the body so it spins easily.
http://resto-revolver.ca/
I am also acquiring materials to build my own, got the rams and the castors :)
 
Here is a link to a company that makes them here in Alberta, if you watch the video and look at the pictures, you will see how it is built to find the center balance point of the body so it spins easily.
http://resto-revolver.ca/
I am also acquiring materials to build my own, got the rams and the castors :)

Cool - going to check it out! The journey is half the joy!
 
So I'm really not super crazy about the 14" Dewalt Chop Saw and abrasive wheels right now.

Straight cuts on 2" and 2 1/2" square tube x 3/16" take about 7-8 minutes. That's bearable, but a single 45* cut on the 2" tube is taking about 20-30 minutes. They are pure torture. It's also tripping my 20 amp breaker if I put just a little too much pressure on it. So about 3 times per cut I have to go and reset the breaker.

I've still got one more 45 to cut. It'll get done but man, I'm wishing for a slow rpm carbide blade and saw. Can't justify it but I can dream!

I also have about more 15 cuts on the 3" tube and four on some 2 1/2" and 3" Schedule 80 pipe. The pipe is a non starter - I'm paying someone to cut that stuff. It's too thick.

I've tried a thinner blade and a thicker blade. Both seem about the same speed wise.

Anyone with experience on which blade should be better on this thicker material?

IMG_7448.jpg
IMG_7449.jpg
 
Last edited:
Here is a link to a company that makes them here in Alberta, if you watch the video and look at the pictures, you will see how it is built to find the center balance point of the body so it spins easily.
http://resto-revolver.ca/
I am also acquiring materials to build my own, got the rams and the castors :)

I'm liking the ability to raise and lower the balance points with the threaded rod. Need to add that.
 
You can add high speed 100 tooth carbide blades to those saws - there are ones made for it . Be aware , the chips are hot enough to start a fire and hurt like hell on your skin . On mitered cuts I just use either an angle grinder w/cutoff wheel or the sawzall , way faster and more accurate . If don't have one - get a LaSquare - https://lasquare.us/ .

For a lifting screw - at least 1" acme threaded rod , a few heavy nuts and some plate steel will make the lifting mechanism easy enough and support the weight easily .

Sarge
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom