Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

For straight lines the newer style wide, thin kerf blades seem to help. I live in a forest where fire regs preclude grinding during the summer, so the Sawzall sees a lot of play.
 
14" chop saws work good for cutting this size of square tubing, I use one on my portable welding truck daily. You should be able to do a straight cut on 2" x 1/4" in about 15-20 seconds. The blades I use are 3/32" thick. When cutting you have to put some weight on the blade, lean on it a bit, enough for it to chew through the metal and to not get glazed up. If the blade gets glazed up, I smack the blade down while running on the material a couple of times to deglaze it. Check the power requirements of your saw, it should be 15 amps. A 20 amp breaker is required, which yours is tripping, either the breaker needs replacement, or there is something wrong with the saw, but it looked pretty new in the pic. Of course use the shorted extension chord possible, 25' versus 100'.
45 degree cuts take a little longer, maybe 30 seconds, make sure the material is clamped tightly in the vice so it doesn't walk and get pulled into the blade.
The next best option for cost, speed and accuracy are .045 thick zip cut blades on a right angle grinder. I have a 6" guard on my Makita 9005b 5" grinder, which allows me to use 6" or 5" blades. Wear a face shield, and don't let the blade bind, it is possible to break them. You might have to go to a welding supply store or such to get them.
 
The next best option for cost, speed and accuracy are .045 thick zip cut blades on a right angle grinder. I have a 6" guard on my Makita 9005b 5" grinder, which allows me to use 6" or 5" blades. Wear a face shield, and don't let the blade bind, it is possible to break them. You might have to go to a welding supply store or such to get them.

I'll second the large, Makita grinder - this is what my future father in law uses to make short work of virtually anything. My 4" Milwaukee has been getting the job done for most things on the truck, but when it comes to heavier steel, I opted to use his big Makita grinder.
 
Hmm, thanks for all the input and options. I have a big grinder (Metabo WEPBA14-150 - 6" wheels) that I could try. It's a hoss. I worry about precision though when holding things by hand.

The sawzall did a pretty good job on the 45* cut - I missed the angle a bit (more off the left side than the right), and was able to come back and cut off a triangle of material to get the angle pretty level and close to 45. So far I've not been able to sneak another 10 minutes in to get another cut done, as the honey-do's keep piling up.

The Dewalt chop saw is a 15 amp, and it is new (couple hours on it). The breaker is a 20, but it is prob 25 years old, and I am hooked into a heavy duty 50' (prob 8 ga) extension cord. I'd guess the breaker is weak. I can't put much pressure on during the cut, as the breaker always trips. It certainly ain't no 20 second cut on a 3/16" x 2" Square Tube.

Love to have a porta band. That sounds like a good solution. Gotta work with what we have - chop saw, sawzall, 6" grinder.
 
I cut the 45* angles for this hydraulic folder with my Milwaukee band saw ($75 used) , then beveled and gap-welded with the tig ...

12T press brake 1.webp


Sarge
 
I was bending metal while the damned thing was still pretty hot - the jack built up enough pressure to leak a bit but it's fine now . I'll paint it in the spring with stainless steel paint like the welding table , that stuff is tough .
Sarge

I'm thinking I'll try the Zinga paint sample I got on the rotisserie. Easier to keep an eye on it.
Try scoring the cut lines with the grinder and slicer wheel first - the sawzall's blade will follow that cut easily .
Sarge
I've actually been clamping a piece of wood along the cut line to start the cut with the sawzall. I remove it once it gets started, but it's worked perfectly thus far. Without it, it's like trying to shoot a machine gun on full auto in the same spot twice - ain't gonna happen.
 
Been reducing the pile of steel to a pile of cut steel. Man, I really need a sturdy table (that's the next project).

Finally got the hard to find Schedule 80 pipe at a cool franchise called Metal Supermarkets here in town. Any shape, size or length, cut, for a reasonable cost (much cheaper for drop lengths than the local steel yard). If you have one in your town, you should try them.

Here's the cut pile. About 75% done.
IMG_7567.webp


Here's what's left of the uncut pile.

IMG_7568.webp
 
If you have a large scrapyard local - go on a hunt from time to time as most will sell steel/iron/aluminum back out much cheaper than you can buy it . That whole hydraulic folder cost about $12 in steel from the local yard - just buying other people drop-offs from manufacturing plants . I've also bought very large sheets of various grades of steel plate , last one was 1.250" thick and those made my 30 ton press plates to cover the entire bed for the next folder build soon . Also snagged a large chunk of 3/4" and 1" plate in excellent straight condition . The 3/4" is already cut to size , ground and milled for building the 21" capacity folder - should handle 5/16" flat steel full width . My welding table is 1" steel from a power plant I cut up at work - weighs over 1,000lbs . If you run into it , it hurts . A lot . Next table will be 4'x10' , got a yard rat at the local yard that spots large sheets coming in occasionally - usually 1.25" to 1.50" thick . No idea why they are being scrapped but someone has been buying them or they get cut up in the yard , what a shame . You'd be amazed at what gets tossed for scrap weight , I've seen 10' lengths of heavy square and round tubing - just gotta catch it right .

Sarge
 
Thanks Sarge - I'll take the advice on looking for large scrap steel. Good idea.

I finished cutting steel last night. About 30 pieces of steel for the rotisserie. I think I'll be able to hold the body, frame, and motor if I had to - this will be a very heavy duty item. The steel alone is coming in at about 300#.

I got my favorite shop tool out - my big magnet. I enjoy cleaning up metal shavings quickly without having to blow or vacuum. I wrap heavy plastic over it and wave it over the floor. You can hear the crackling of the steel sticking to the magnet thru the plastic. Sounds like rice crispies. When done, just turn it upside down and separate the plastic and shaving and let the shavings go into the trash.

image.webp


image.webp


image.webp


image.webp
 
Almost artistic, the way it stands up on end!
 
It's looking like we may put our plans for the dream garage/workshop on hold, so I'm on a cleaning, trashing, & reorganizing binge for the next little while. The once-temporary use of the existing garage is out of hand, ugly, cramped and not conducive to gettin' 'er done!

I've got 20 years worth of tools, wood, steel, bits and pieces, cans of crap I've not touched in years that are all going to go away. Someone else can make use of them. I need to store 40 parts so I can separate the clean from the dirty, finished from not.

I'm so sick of being disorganized. If I'm going to be doing this on THIS truck for another year, I might as well enjoy the time in the space.

My wife has been very gracious to let me store all my crap in the past, but now with the truck in there too, I'm not honoring her nor helping her mental state to make her walk thru that every day. Winter cleaning here we go.
 
Ah yes, Rule number 1: do not piss off the spouse...:confused:
 
Back
Top Bottom