Builds 1FZFE overhaul

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Had to finish the PS cooler upgrade. It's been sitting on the shelf and i'm out of procrastination time! I decided to cut the hard lines here and run the lines through the frame up to the cooler. I'm going to pain that bracket so don't hate on it! :flipoff2:
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Thanks to two local club members, i was able to track down the missing two parts i needed to complete the motor. Thanks again guys!!

Out with the old and broke, and in with the ..... not broke :D

Glad they went to good use already.

Now do not forget i will be doing this same thing in a few.
 
Almost there! :cool:

Started to set the motor and had a few issues. First, i was having a really hard time getting the motor to set in place getting around the tranny lines that run over the bell housing. Once you got around those, i was having a hard time getting it to set on the motor mounts and slide back onto the torque converter. After about 1 hour of wrestling we had this much space between the motor and the bell housing. I think that maybe the torque converter hopped out and that's what's keeping the motor from snapping into place.

I realized that removing the exhaust manifolds makes this job a lot easier. So i removed them (well the rear one but i'm going to remove the front one in the morning). I didn't get it completely finished but had to leave.

My thought is that during the wrestling the torque converter slipped forward and maybe off just enough it's keeping the motor from sliding in place. IN the morning i'll remove the front exhaust manifold and slide the motor forward so i can ensure the torque converter is sitting correctly (as the FSM shows). Hopefully that's the issue and it will slide in place tomorrow.

This has been a long road, but a fun and educational one. It feels nice having the motor sitting in it's home once again. :grinpimp:
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one thing that can really help the mating process is to put a little grease on the center pin of the Torque converter and the two alignment dowels on the bell housing.

It you get a little crooked on the install, with out the grease they can jamb up pretty good.
 
I will give that a shot! I actually thought about it while i was laying under there thinking those should be lubed so they will slide better.
 
landtank,

do you set with the motor mounts on the motor or on the frame? I decided to remove the motor mounts completely, get the bellhousings to mate and then lift and put the motor mounts in place. That's the plan anyways.
 
I set the motor on it's mounts with the nuts a little loose. And then slide the tranny in place. BUt i als have a tranny jack which really helps.

I actually got the jack from harbor freight for around 100.00 on sale. Worth every penny as I'l used it about 5 times and it has plenty of lift height even for out lifted trucks.
 
The block doesn't always slide up nicely against the bellhousing. With mine, a manual, I managed to get it within an inch of touching. I them got a couple of the longer bolts that bolt the bellhousing to the block and got them started to help pull it together. With the clamping force of the bolts, it fitted up quickly and smoothly. Just make sure you aren't fighting against an obvious jam or catching on any lines etc.

Looking good CJ, almost ready for its first drive!!!
 
Thanks to two local club members, i was able to track down the missing two parts i needed to complete the motor. Thanks again guys!!

Out with the old and broke, and in with the ..... not broke :D

Glad those worked out for you. If there is anything else don't hesitate to call.
 
got it in y'all. The two top bolts on the top of the bell-housing is a son of a ..... to try getting to. I had a collection of wobbles and extensions to get them. this further makes me believe that it's easier if you pull the engine and transmission together as a unit.

Ended up being that the torque converter had slipped out and off it's "track" holding the flex plate from going in. I separated the motor/bell-housing tonight, spun and pushed on the torque converter and it slid back an inch or two. Then it slid into place. Slowly tightened the bell housing bolts until it snugged up.

Now it's torqued into place. I think i may have to take the upper intake off to get the wiring settled right. It kind of got jammed up without me realizing it.
 
crank bolt torque

Had a chance to torque the crank bolt today. I borrowed a torque wrench from a mechanic friend of mine. I have never seen a wrench this big!! :eek:

Used landtank's trick to secure the pulley by tying a rope from one frame rail, around the pulley and then to the other frame rail. I had some strong rope but thought for a few seconds it might snap.

To make sure i got enough torque, i went to 325 ft/lbs when IIRC the FSM calls for 309.

Here's a few pics.
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Go man go, you are getting there right quick. I have been following your thread for a long time as I plan to source a used motor and rebuild in my basement and swap in when Done, hopefully keeping the ol girl on the road the entire time. Nice Job.
 
I folde the rope in half to make a loop. The from inside the frame rail I send the two ends under the frame, up and over the top of the frame and through the loop. Then wrap the crank pulley several times.

That way you are doubling the strength of what you have.

I've even used the rope method to break free and crank bolt.
 
I do think it's easier to pull the entire transmission and motor together. I keep saying that lol...

Got the AC put back on. Got the Exhaust manifolds mounted back up also. THat was kind of a PITA until i "thunk on it" for a second. Just take the manifold studs out, set it in place, and then put the studs/nuts back in place. Once i figured that out it was not so bad.

I hope i haven't made a mistake, and when i get a little more time i'll know. What i'm worried about is the wiring harness. I had it pulled over to the driver's side and over the fender when i installed the motor. Was so focused on getting the motor set in place thinking the wiring was just over out of the way and it would have plenty of room to run it around when the motor is in. Now, it's kind of jammed behind the EGR and i didn't notice it until everything was mounted up. I'll have a look at that next. I'm really hoping after glancing at it today that i can remove the throttle body and maybe the upper intake and squeeze it all through.... i hope!
 
I jammed up my harness as well, and I stabbed the engine and transmission in while they were together.

I also managed to get the heater control valve stuck behind the egr pipe. If you want a spare wiring harness (one that was never stuck under the egr valve:), drop me a line...

I do think it's easier to pull the entire transmission and motor together. I keep saying that lol...

Got the AC put back on. Got the Exhaust manifolds mounted back up also. THat was kind of a PITA until i "thunk on it" for a second. Just take the manifold studs out, set it in place, and then put the studs/nuts back in place. Once i figured that out it was not so bad.

I hope i haven't made a mistake, and when i get a little more time i'll know. What i'm worried about is the wiring harness. I had it pulled over to the driver's side and over the fender when i installed the motor. Was so focused on getting the motor set in place thinking the wiring was just over out of the way and it would have plenty of room to run it around when the motor is in. Now, it's kind of jammed behind the EGR and i didn't notice it until everything was mounted up. I'll have a look at that next. I'm really hoping after glancing at it today that i can remove the throttle body and maybe the upper intake and squeeze it all through.... i hope!
 
Does it live?

Not yet :doh: I haven't been able to work on it in over two weeks because either it's been raining, about to rain or i'm working. Played golf this morning and then came home and sweated over her a little while.

First i finished up all the heater hoses, fuel lines, coolant lines and vacuum lines. Decided to use the silicone stuff for the larger heater lines.

As i was replacing the heater hoses, i found this leaf cigar up in the heater valve :o Glad i decided to remove those hoses and replace them or i wouldn't have found this.
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Then i tried to clean up the wiring that goes to the alternator. I tried to do a good job when i did it originally, but there was room for improvement. here is a shot of the wiring dirty and needing to be protected.

Also, a shot showing the flexi link to get the PS line torqued correctly. :hillbilly:
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