1FZ trans swaps 6R80 10R80 and more (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I am a Mechanical R&D engineer for a tech company. I design sheetmetal all day with metric PEM fasteners. Kind of second nature for me to design them in.

What I meant is you don’t see them on the typical Land Cruiser project :lol:
 
The TurboLamik TCU has an optional display that will tell the user what gear they are in, what shift program they are using, and display any error codes. I designed a 3D printed holder for the display that snaps into one of the switch locations above the HVAC controls. I removed the rear heat blower/heater core assembly from below the passenger seat and will use those coolant lines to run to the ATF warmer on the side of the 8HP75. That is also where I am mounting the TCU and the new ECU, when I get to that point. I removed the switch for the rear heat blower from the dash and moved the hazard switch down there. I did have to extend the wires on the harness for the hazard switch.

TurboLamik Display

IMG_6988.JPG

IMG_6990.JPG

IMG_6986.JPG

IMG_6987.JPG
 
The TurboLamik TCU has an optional display that will tell the user what gear they are in, what shift program they are using, and display any error codes. I designed a 3D printed holder for the display that snaps into one of the switch locations above the HVAC controls. I removed the rear heat blower/heater core assembly from below the passenger seat and will use those coolant lines to run to the ATF warmer on the side of the 8HP75. That is also where I am mounting the TCU and the new ECU, when I get to that point. I removed the switch for the rear heat blower from the dash and moved the hazard switch down there. I did have to extend the wires on the harness for the hazard switch.

TurboLamik Display

View attachment 3543421
View attachment 3543422
View attachment 3543423
View attachment 3543424
I wish they would make one for 6R & 10R80
 
I wish they would make one for 6R & 10R80
You might ping Lamik and see if he has plans for that, or not. Issue may be that he is in Poland and I am not sure if those transmissions are common over there for him to get samples and figure out the controls.
 
Forgot to post this. Daniel at DomiWorks approved posting some pictures of the 3D models for the adapters.

The aluminum parts are done being machined and are out for anodize. The intermediate shaft is the gating item, as the shop he orders from is pretty busy. Still planning on getting parts in February, will update when I know.

Transmission to Block adapter, engine side showing the 1FZ-FE flexplate and a representative model of the end of the crank.

Domiworks_Bell_Housing_Adapter_Front.png


Transmission to Block Adapter, 8HP75 side, showing the torque converter adapter (spoked "wheel") that has bolt patters for both the 1FZ-FE flexplate and the Dodge 8HP75 torque converter.

Domiworks_Bell_Housing_Adapter_Rear.png


Transmission to Transfer Case adapter, showing the adapter with the 8HP75 3D scanned model in black and the LC transfer case flange. Center section has the stock LC transmission Mount geometry. The long shaft is a model of the LC transfer case input shaft. We bought one for geometry and spline take off. Intermediate shaft is buried in the middle, not viewable in this picture.

Tail_Housing_Rear_View_with_TCase_Input_Shaft.png


Intermediate Shaft Finite Element Analysis model.
Assumptions were 525 ft-lbs of engine torque output, 4.7:1 first gear and a 1.5 safety factor.

Intermediate Shaft FEA_1.jpg
 
What alloy are the parts fabricated from?

This is very encouraging, can’t wait to see the end cost. I’m considering a 5 speed manual but every time I read this post this seems like a much better idea.

Lower cruising rpm’s for improved fuel mileage and still the advantage of auto for off-road manners.

Awesome work so far🍻
 
What alloy are the parts fabricated from?

This is very encouraging, can’t wait to see the end cost. I’m considering a 5 speed manual but every time I read this post this seems like a much better idea.

Lower cruising rpm’s for improved fuel mileage and still the advantage of auto for off-road manners.

Awesome work so far🍻
These modern transmissions are very efficient at transferring power to driveshafts. They have far less parasitic losses than the older designs, like what shipped in the J80. The manual would still be a bit more efficient, but they are pretty close.

And, with the extra gears, it should really wake up the 4.5L I6, keeping it in a tighter RPM band around peak torque when shifting. With the TurboLamik TCU we can control the shift points in various shift programs, tailoring the shift pattern for different use cases. And, like you said, off road I like the auto transmission and with a 4.7 first gear, it will give us a 68% lower ratio for crawling. 8th gear is 11% taller than the OD in the A343F, which will help with fuel economy on the freeway.

I will ask Daniel at DomiWorks if he wants me to share the alloys for the parts. The adapters are aluminum, all three, I can say that. And the intermediate shaft is a very specific tool steel that was selected based on the FEA I did with Ansys. It also has a very specific heat treat done to it after machining to get the material properties desired and used in the FEA. I can say that, and will share more if Daniel agrees. I have to respect his IP rights on the kit, as he runs a business and does have competitors.

Me? I'm just a tech industry engineer who likes to play around with cars.....
 
These modern transmissions are very efficient at transferring power to driveshafts. They have far less parasitic losses than the older designs, like what shipped in the J80. The manual would still be a bit more efficient, but they are pretty close.

And, with the extra gears, it should really wake up the 4.5L I6, keeping it in a tighter RPM band around peak torque when shifting. With the TurboLamik TCU we can control the shift points in various shift programs, tailoring the shift pattern for different use cases. And, like you said, off road I like the auto transmission and with a 4.7 first gear, it will give us a 68% lower ratio for crawling. 8th gear is 11% taller than the OD in the A343F, which will help with fuel economy on the freeway.

I will ask Daniel at DomiWorks if he wants me to share the alloys for the parts. The adapters are aluminum, all three, I can say that. And the intermediate shaft is a very specific tool steel that was selected based on the FEA I did with Ansys. It also has a very specific heat treat done to it after machining to get the material properties desired and used in the FEA. I can say that, and will share more if Daniel agrees. I have to respect his IP rights on the kit, as he runs a business and does have competitors.

Me? I'm just a tech industry engineer who likes to play around with cars.....
Totally understandable to wait for his ok.

I’m curious on the alloy because of corrosion. Yes anodizing will help but once salt and debris erode the anodizing then in my world corrosion becomes an issue. Undercoating helps greatly.

The idea of the improvement in gearing and the concept of better mpg is very appealing.

Looking forward to the continuation of your mods! 🍻
 
Hi! Loving the thread!

I´m also swapping a 8HP70x on my J80 Land Cruiser, only that mine is a 94 HDJ80. I´m not trying to hijack the thread or anything closer, but I´ll share some info on my set-up, in case there is some useful info for the 1FZ guys.

Here in Spain, most of the 8HP gearboxes available come from N47/N57 BMWs and these boxes are what most of the swaps for streetcars are based on. These gearboxes have a rather small bellhousing, too small when it comes to the 1H-T/1FZ flywheel, resulting in an very thick adapter plate (60mm or so). I ended up using a 8HP70x box from a Lion V6 Land rover/Jaguar with a bigger bellhousing in order to keep the distance between the transfercase and engine as close to oem as possible. The A442F is 730mm long from what I measured and my set-up is 32mm longer with the gearbox and adapters included:

1706783984961.png



In my case, I designed the tcase adapter with an intermediate shaft supported by a single bearing. To avoid the problems with a single row bearing mentioned in previous posts, I worked with a local spline workshop to machine the splines as tight as possible to prevent any play or clunking.
1706784575272.jpeg

The support bracket for the hi/lo selector has been designed to be at the same longitudinal distance and height as in the A442F. The adapters have been machined out of 7075-T6 with a hard-anodizing coating to prevent corrosion cracking, common for this particular alloy. These are a couple pics of the anodized adapters:
1706784693087.jpeg


1706784710805.jpeg


This is my progress so far. I´m now building the wiring harness for the Turbolamik controller so I hopefully get to do the swap in a couple months time.

The 8HP70 swap will certainly be a game changer for our old Land Cruisers!
 
Hi! Loving the thread!

I´m also swapping a 8HP70x on my J80 Land Cruiser, only that mine is a 94 HDJ80. I´m not trying to hijack the thread or anything closer, but I´ll share some info on my set-up, in case there is some useful info for the 1FZ guys.

Here in Spain, most of the 8HP gearboxes available come from N47/N57 BMWs and these boxes are what most of the swaps for streetcars are based on. These gearboxes have a rather small bellhousing, too small when it comes to the 1H-T/1FZ flywheel, resulting in an very thick adapter plate (60mm or so). I ended up using a 8HP70x box from a Lion V6 Land rover/Jaguar with a bigger bellhousing in order to keep the distance between the transfercase and engine as close to oem as possible. The A442F is 730mm long from what I measured and my set-up is 32mm longer with the gearbox and adapters included:

View attachment 3547335


In my case, I designed the tcase adapter with an intermediate shaft supported by a single bearing. To avoid the problems with a single row bearing mentioned in previous posts, I worked with a local spline workshop to machine the splines as tight as possible to prevent any play or clunking.

The support bracket for the hi/lo selector has been designed to be at the same longitudinal distance and height as in the A442F. The adapters have been machined out of 7075-T6 with a hard-anodizing coating to prevent corrosion cracking, common for this particular alloy. These are a couple pics of the anodized adapters:




This is my progress so far. I´m now building the wiring harness for the Turbolamik controller so I hopefully get to do the swap in a couple months time.

The 8HP70 swap will certainly be a game changer for our old Land Cruisers!
This is awesome, 8HP swaps coming out of the woodwork! I ran into a little frustration when modifying my TurboLamik harness. The harness I purchased is the base harness that "assumes" you will be using CAN to get the RPM, TPS, and other data directly from the ECU. Our older rigs need to use analog inputs from the sensors and we then need to do a quick calibration with the TurboLamik. To get the Analog inputs I needed to add wires to the base harness that I purchased. The frustration I ran into is that the harness has two ground and one power circuit that come in on a fat wire that then splits to two or three wires that plug into the harness connector. The split was created too close to the connector, so that you could not disassemble the connector to put the the new wires in, which load from the rear after pulling back a cover and a rubber seal. I had to open up and de-solder the splices so that I could get the new wires in. I then replaced the short wires in the connector with longer wires so that I could make disassembly easier in the future. I will post a summary and pictures of that here this weekend. And, I fed back to TurboLamik about this.

I really like your shifter adapter. Mine is just a flat plate. Yours looks very hot rod. Also, it sounds like you were able to keep the overall length shorter than I could with the Dodge transmission. My set up is 68.8 mm longer than stock, pushing the transfer case back that much. One issue with the Dodge transmission was that one of the bell housing dowel pin holes lined up directly with the snout on the 1FZ-FE starter. Bad luck there. That is what limited the thickness of the bell housing adapter. We have a dowel pin installed in the adapter directly above the snout on the starter.

I should be installing at the end of February to early March.

Thanks for sharing!

Mike
 
Last edited:
FYI
US Shift says they should have their R80 controller working soon, they just released the news and say they are testing so I am confident.
So confident I ordered a 10R80 transmission from the junk yard for $2,000
 
Thanks for the appreciation!

The Land Rover 8HP certainly made the job a lot easier. There are lots of holes, so in case a gerabox bolts lines up with an engine block bolt, there are many other gearbox holes that fit just perfect. In my case, I´ll have to drill a 25mm thru hole on the bellhousing flange to make room for the starter motor pinion:

1706876924890.png


This is awesome, 8HP swaps coming out of the woodwork! I ran into a little frustration when modifying my TurboLamik harness. The harness I purchased is the base harness that "assumes" you will be using CAN to get the RPM, TPS, and other data directly from the ECU. Our older rigs need to use analog inputs from the sensors and we then need to do a quick calibration with the TurboLamik. To get the Analog inputs I needed to add wires to the base harness that I purchased. The frustration I ran into is that the harness has two ground and one power circuit that come in on a fat wire that then splits to two or three wires that plug into the harness connector. The split was created too close to the connector, so that you could not disassemble the connector to put the the new wires in, which load from the rear after pulling back a cover and a rubber seal. I had to open up and de-solder the splices so that I could get the new wires in. I then replaced the short wires in the connector with longer wires so that I could make disassembly easier in the future. I will post a summary and pictures of that here this weekend. And, I fed back to TurboLamik about this.

I really like your shifter adapter. Mine is just a flat plate. Yours looks very hot rod. Also, it sounds like you were able to keep the overall length shorter than I could with the Dodge transmission. My set up is 68.8 mm longer than stock, pushing the transfer case back that much. One issue with the Dodge transmission was that one of the bell housing bolts lined up directly with the snout on the 1FZ-FE starter. That is what limited the thickness of the bell housing adapter.

I should be installing at the end of February to early March.

Thanks for sharing!

Mike
The Turbolamik wiring harness is ok for CAN use as you said, but for our case, it is better to make the wire harness in my opinion. It is not a lot of work to make a wire harness for a standalone 8HP70, there is an extensive pinout diagram on the Turbolamik website.

Has someone used the factory Toyota automatic shifter with the Turbolamik? Here in Spain it is illegal to swap the gearbox and I´d like to keep the look of the interior as stock as possible to avoid any trouble on the yearly inspection...
 
@hazard, I said it back when you were talking about getting the adapters made, but I'll say it again...I think transmission swap is the next big way to upgrade these trucks. The OEM Trans is a major limiting factor and especially so for the Turbo'd motors that would benefit from standalone ECU.

Granted...once you do swap the trans, it's opening so many new areas to optimize / spend $$ on.

@OutlawMike — Can I come see it when you get it figured out?
 
@hazard, I said it back when you were talking about getting the adapters made, but I'll say it again...I think transmission swap is the next big way to upgrade these trucks. The OEM Trans is a major limiting factor and especially so for the Turbo'd motors that would benefit from standalone ECU.

Granted...once you do swap the trans, it's opening so many new areas to optimize / spend $$ on.


[QUOTE="CJK, post: 15343988, member: 140123"]
OutlawMike
— Can I come see it when you get it figured out?

Sure, when I get it driving you are welcome to come over and check it out.
 
  • Love
Reactions: CJK
Hopefully I can modify my adapters to fit, I think the 10R80 and the 6R80 are almost identical. I will post when it arrives
That is pretty confident! I hope they follow through with the controller. That gives owners a choice between two readily available transmissions in the US market. Lots of F150's running around with the 10 speed and lots of Dodge 1500's with the 8HP75.
 
@hazard, I said it back when you were talking about getting the adapters made, but I'll say it again...I think transmission swap is the next big way to upgrade these trucks. The OEM Trans is a major limiting factor and especially so for the Turbo'd motors that would benefit from standalone ECU.

Granted...once you do swap the trans, it's opening so many new areas to optimize / spend $$ on.

@OutlawMike — Can I come see it when you get it figured out?
Sure, if you are in BC
 
I think overall the 10 speed will be a slightly better choice than the ZF 8, but it appears that there are more people doing a good job of ZF adapters so will probably be cheaper and best overall.
keep up the awesome work you ZF guys, wish I had done as thoughtful job as you are doing. Mines a mess compared to you two. A lot is because I live in Avery remote area so I do it all by phone with anyone I can get to work with me. Hopefully I can work it out.
I think I will be fine but the cost has been very high.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom