1FZ power steering pump replacement... (3 Viewers)

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Just went through replacing everything but the steering box. The previa hose is discontinued, I had no issues using gates hose instead.
Removed the battery box and reservoir. 27 year old hoses are an absolute pain to work with. Removed the pump with the high pressure line still attached from the bottom. Wouldn't do this again, just remove/install everything one by one. Installed the pump from the top of the engine then bolted up/torqued the lines.

Nuts holding pump to block studs are 14mm. Torque spec 27 ftlbs.
Pump high pressure banjo bolt is 22mm. Torque spec 42 ftlbs.
Oil pump gear nut to pump is 17mm 12 point. Torque spec 54 ftlbs.
High pressure flare nut to steering box is 17mm. Torque spec 26 ftlbs.

Part #s used:
Rein high pressure hose (PSH0328)
3' of Gates 3/8" ID power steering return hose (350010 on RockAuto, said 361970 on bag). You can reuse the OEM clamps with this.
Pump (44320-60182)
Reservoir (44360-60171)
High pressure banjo crush washer (44327-30030). Rein comes with 2 copper ones, I used the OEM.
Reservoir to pump hose (44348-60170)
Pump o-ring to block (90301-73004)
 
Did you cross the lines where they go into the steering box? As in put the high pressure hose to the low pressure hole on the box? High pressure goes to the outboard. Or you might have bad trunnion bearings as well
I did not... I def made sure to get all my hoses back in the correct places. I bleed it again last night and have not been able to drive it as it is not my daily... she seems to be better but only time will tell. Appreciate all the responses... just wanted to be sure I wasn't overlooking something major.
 
I did not... I def made sure to get all my hoses back in the correct places. I bleed it again last night and have not been able to drive it as it is not my daily... she seems to be better but only time will tell. Appreciate all the responses... just wanted to be sure I wasn't overlooking something major.
Well just to update everyone eagerly awaiting my updates but finally realized that my reservoir was leaking. I kept cleaning the top off and checking hoses and finally put my hand underneath the reservoir and it had a slight leak that was getting air into the system. Just changed out for an OEM one today and things are looking good
 
Hey guys, I really, really appreciate both of you taking time to respond to my post this morning. Pawnthatdude I stumbled onto your video via YouTube! I had 3 questions for you. In the video, the first bolt that you take off from under the truck (not counting the skid plate bolts 😉) is holding the high-pressure hose on. In my attached pic, I’m guessing that is the one with yellow circle. I think it wads like a 12 or 13mm. As you can see in the pic, I do not have a straight shot at that, as the high pressure hose is directly in front of it 😢. I’m not sure how you were able to access it. The only way that I could around it was to remove the red 10mm bolt, which I ultimately stripped. The bolt actually faces the frame, which limited me to using a box wrench, which stripped it. I should back up. Last week I was trying to replace the power steering cooler, and to do that, I needed the high pressure hose out of the way so I could remove the lines behind it, which required removing the yellow bolt and associated bracket. Fast forward to this weekend when I discovered that in addition to the pinhole leak in my cooler, the back of my pump is covered with oil too! So, it looks like the red bolt (10mm) is going to have to be cut off if I want to take out the pump with the high pressure hose attached. What’s odd is I feel fairly sure that is the first bolt you removed, but there is no way I could have used the tool you used. For that matter, I don’t see how it could have been the yellow bolt either. I’m confused 🤔. Okay, next question. Did you actually break the old high-pressure hose getting it off? I get the sense that even holdIng the bottom 24 mm bolt, may not prevent damage? The reason I ask is that I don’t plan to replace the hoses, so naturally I don’t want to break it. Where I’m a bit confused is that I recall you holding the bottom 24mm bolt when you hit the 22mm with the impact. I’m in the process of trying to sell my Crusher! If I try to remove the high pressure hose from the pump while it’s own the vehicle, can I even get a wrench on the bottom bolt?View attachment 2463844

I really appreciate all of your help!!

Mike
Anyone have a part number handy for this bracket? I ended up cutting mine off b/c it was so grease covered I didnt realize there's a main bolt holding the whole bracket on. I stripped out the 10mm so thought I was done on getting it off without destroying it.
 
It looks like maybe the bracket comes with a new OEM high pressure hose. Here's a pic I snagged from somewhere of a new hose. I opted for the Rock Auto $28 version instead of the $200+ OEM version. Guess I'll be fabbing up something to hold it on the frame!

1731250970889.png
 
Anyone have a part number handy for this bracket? I ended up cutting mine off b/c it was so grease covered I didnt realize there's a main bolt holding the whole bracket on. I stripped out the 10mm so thought I was done on getting it off without destroying it.

Are you referring to the bracket at the U-bend in the pressure hose? If so, you buy the pressure hose to get it. To have it fit and work properly you need an OEM hose. 44411-60430.
 
oh, I'm an idiot. My new Rock Auto hose came with that bracket. I should inspect my parts before posting here. 🤦‍♂️ The RA hose I got seems to have decent reviews here. But yes, that's the part I'm replacing.
 
I used the Rein PSH0328 recently and it came with that bracket. I always try to go OEM but this line was over $300 so I saved that $ for the OEM reman starter
 
Does anybody know the torque value of the High Pressure Port that the Banjo bolt threads into? Mine was so filthy from an oil leak that wasn't dealt with (previous owner) that I couldn't tell there was a second part there, so I had no idea I needed to put a wrench on it. I haven't been able to find the torque value anywhere. Digging through the FSM.
It's on a 1FZ-FE engine in a 95 FZJ-80.

P.S. it's pretty awesome that I can use/read this post, I was 11 years old in 2005 when it was posted. I love forums.
 
Found what I needed with help from Malleus.
Refer to post 12 on this thread for torque values, FSM location etc.

Thanks bhs, you pointed me in the right direction. Much appreciated.
 
Been discussed before but bringing it forward in case it was missed: to prevent leaks it's important to use a new double/dual gasket (crush washer) 44327-30030 for the high pressure line/banjo bolt union to the pump.

FZJ80 PS pump double crush washer gasket 44327-30030.jpg
 
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Been discussed before but bringing it forward in case it was missed: to prevent leaks it's important to use a new double/dual gasket (crush washer) 44327-30030 for the high pressure line/banjo bolt union to the pump.

View attachment 3893152
Good reminder. Every time I've done the "ah the gasket looks fine, I'll just reuse it so I don't have to wait for parts" it either leaks immediately, or a couple weeks later.... Oil, air, it doesn't matter.

Unrelated: are these or the original copper crush washers used anywhere else on the car? I could only buy packs of 10 from Toyota Parts Deal.
 

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