1FZ power steering pump replacement...

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why not just answer the guy's question rather than being vague and telling him to search? :confused:
 
While changing out my pump the reservoir line popped loose from the pump quickly and I was unable to take note if there was an o-ring that may have come off without me noticing. Is there a rubber o-ring or gasket on the connection between the pump and the power steering reservoir hose? The nipple on the fitting which is secured with a 12mm bolt to the pump is grooved and appears that an o-ring would help seal the connection where it slides into the pump.

Secondly, I have read that there is a gasket on the high pressure connection to the pump. I did not see a gasket on the old unit. I only observed a 22mm banjo bolt with a copper crush washer between the banjo fitting and the head of the bolt. Is there a second crush washer between the banjo bold and the pump that I am missing?
 
No gasket on the hose between reservoir and pump. Just the hose and clamp top and bottom. On my 95, there was a copper looking washer top and bottom of the banjo fitting. I replaced it with the new style that is a one piece design.
 
The inlet fitting on the pump does use an o-ring
 
The inlet fitting on the pump does use an o-ring
Thanks for the reply. I've searched for this oart and cannot find any information on it. Are you able to point me in the right direction on where I may find the correct size I need to pick up from my local auto parts store?
 
Thanks for the reply. I've searched for this oart and cannot find any information on it. Are you able to point me in the right direction on where I may find the correct size I need to pick up from my local auto parts store?

Thanks @cruiserdan. I was thinking of the hose from bottom barb of reservoir to the barb on the pump. No o-ring there right??
Nothing on the reservoir end, just the pump end.

Screenshot 2023-04-03 at 09-58-17 45-02 VANE PUMP & RESERVOIR (POWER STEERING) diagram 1994 TO...png
 
if replacing the pump, you can remove the gear without a puller. Strike the shaft a couple times and the shockwave will release the gear.
It took me longer to pull out the keyway.

IMG_3038.JPG
 
Nothing on the reservoir end, just the pump end.

View attachment 3289846
Does the o-ring slip over top of the nipple before inserting it into the orifice or does the o-ring press into the orifice prior to inserting the nipple into the orifice?

I ask because I slipped the o-ring over the nipple before inserting the nipple into the orifice and now I have a constant drip coming out of the connection. This makes me think that I've done it wrong. Before taking it apart again, I would appreciate some insight.

Thanks
 
The ring has to go on the fitting prior to installation. The ring could have been damaged or dislodged in the process
 
Watch my video from when I changed my pump for the third time. I go over what happens if you run into this. You just need another wrench. I recommend taking the pump out with the hoses attached to it.


this was a great video, really helped me. A few tips to make it even easier-

1. 17mm flare nut can be easily accessed through the drivers wheel well. No crows foot needed
2. leaving hp hose attached - pulling whole thing out as a unit from under is easy and a great tip
3. no gear puller needed -as stated above
4. The only "specialty" tool you need is a vise to hold the gear (rubber/soft pads to grip the gear- do not damage the teeth) to torque the nut, and new hp hose nut
5. I pulled the battery box and the ps reservoir to make replacing hoses easier. It makes access to all hoses and the top nut much easier.
It's only a few more bolts.
6. it's a good time to check and replace ps cooler soft lines under the battery box and in front. Theres great writeups for this.
(gates 3/8 400psi hose/ belmetric constant tension clamps/ bit of rubber lube like shin etsu or sil-glyde)
OEM is 10mm id, most 3/8 is 9.5mm, Gates 3/8 is 9.7mm and that makes a world of difference.
 
So I replaced my PSP with an OEM Toyota pump, I used the high pressure hose from cruiser parts. I replaced the low pressure hoses as well. Used all the right gaskets and I have no visible leaks and fluid has not dropped. I've bled the system three or four times and I'm still getting resistance when driving around, the strange part is as it seems to happen more when I'm turning left than turning right. The steering stabilizer's new everything on the front end, tie rod ends are new. It just started doing this after I did the new pump and everything, any advice on what might be a problem point to start with from the group?!
 
Did you do everything at the same time or in stages? What steering shock did you use?
 
Did you do everything at the same time or in stages? What steering shock did you use?
No the steering stabilizer was done a while back... OME. The power steering started leaking bad here recently with colder weather (lines were all hard as a rock) so just pulled the trigger on everything.
 
It may not be fully bled. Have you followed the bleeding procedure in the FSM?
 
It may not be fully bled. Have you followed the bleeding procedure in the FSM?
I did, jacked her up... Lock to lock car off mult times (30+ times on second attempts) and same when dropped down with idle. I've read were some recommend even more then what I did. I'll probably go through the bleeding process one more time. I will say when I do it with the car off and jacked up I have the cap off and it will gurgler some fluid. Not bubble it up but overflow. Not sure if it should do that once bled completely, almost been wondering I have too much fluid in it.
 
Did you cross the lines where they go into the steering box? As in put the high pressure hose to the low pressure hole on the box? High pressure goes to the outboard. Or you might have bad trunnion bearings as well
 

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